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THE PAMPAS AND ANDES. 



THOUSAND MILES' WALK 



ACROSS 



SOUTH AMERICA. 



BY 



.\m** 



NATHANIEL H" BISHOP. 



WITH AN INTRODUCTION 



EDWARD A. SAMUELS, Esq., 

AT7THOB OF " OENITHOLOGY AKD OOLOGY OP NEW ENGLAND," 
ETC., ETC. 






BOSTON: 
1869. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 

LEE AND SHEPAKD, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 






3 




STEREOTYPED AT THE 

BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY, 

No. 19 Spring Lane. 



Presswork by John Wilson and Son. 



TO 

PROFESSOR SPENCER F. BAIRD, 

ASSISTANT SEO'Y OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, 

Sjjfe Moxk fa gjebkateb, 

AS A TOKEN OF SINCERE REGARD, 
BY HIS FRIEND, 

THE AUTHOR. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Ik placing this little volume before the public, 
a few words, regarding the manner in which the in- 
cidents and material composing it were acquired, 
may be of interest to the reader. 

The young gentleman who made the pedestrian 
trip, of which this forms the narrative, was a native 
of Massachusetts. I had missed him from his accus- 
tomed place for some time, but was ignorant gf his 
contemplated journey, or even that he had gone 
away, until my attention was called to the following 
paragraph in the columns of the Boston Daily Ad- 
vertiser of January 12, 1856, from its Chilian corre- 
spondent : — 

"Valparaiso, November 27, 1855. 

" There arrived here, a few days since, a young man belong- 
ing to Medford, Mass., who has walked across the Pampas and 
Cordilleras, more than a thousand miles, unable to speak the 
language, and with an astonishingly small amount of money. 

"So much for a Yankee." 

My friend was but seventeen years of age when he 
entered upon his difficult undertaking ; but by dint of 

(3) 



4 INTRODUCTION. 

perseverance, backed by an enthusiastic love for nature, 
he accomplished a task that would have seemed insur- 
mountable to many older and more experienced than 
himself. To use the language of Dr. Brewer, the able 
author of the Oology of North America, he was " a 
young and enthusiastic naturalist, whose zeal in the 
study of Natural History prompted him, alone, un- 
aided, and at the risk of his life, to explore the arid 
plains of South America, while yet a mere lad in years 
and stature, though his observations there exhibit the 
close and careful study of maturer years." 

The young traveller started on his journey of up- 
wards of twelve thousand miles, by sea and land, with a 
cash capital of forty-five dollars, and returned home with 
fifty ; thus proving to those who wish to see the world 
that energy, industry, and economy are as potent to 
assist them in their efforts as unlimited wealth. 

On his return, I requested him to furnish me with 
an account of his journey ; this he has been unable 
to do, from press of business, until recently, when he 
gave me a copy of his journal, which, in a slightly 
revised form, is now published. 

Edward A. Samuels. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PASSAGE OF THE RIVER PLATA. 

Page 
The Bark M. — First Glimpses of Life in the Forecastle.— An old 
Salt, and forecastle Etiquette. — A self-constituted Guardian. — An- 
other old Salt, and how he spliced the Main-brace. — Farewell to 
Boston. — The Passage. — The tropical Seas. — The Rocks of St. 
Paul's, and their Natural History. — First Visit of the Pampero. — 
The " Doctor's " poetical Effusions 11 



CHAPTER II. 

IN THE RIVER PLATA. 

We enter the River Plata. —Land. — Montevideo. — Another Pam- 
pero. — Effects of the Hurricane. — Its Season. — We arrive at the 
outer Roads at Buenos Ayres 



CHAPTER III. 

BUENOS AYRES — THE PROVINCE AND CITY. 

Letters from Home. — A Visit to the City. — Its Population. — This- 
tle Forests. — Agricultural Resources. —Public Edifices of Buenos 
Ayres. — Improvements. — Soil and Water. — Slavery and its His- 

5 



) CONTENTS. 

tory. — Don D. F. Sarmiento. — Paper Currency. — General Ro- 
sas and his cruel Tyranny 35 



CHAPTER IV. 
VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL. 

A new Acquaintance. — Preparations for a Journey. — The Departure. 

— TheCochero and his Vehicle. — Residence of the late President. — 
Agriculture. — Fuel. — San Fernando.-— Mr. Hopkins and United 
States and Pacific Navigation Company. — Yerba. — We leave the 
Tigre. — Arrival at the Banda Oriental. — Wild Dogs. — Estancia. 

— Departure for the Las Vacas River. — A Revelation. — An Ignis 
Fatuus. — Estancia House, and Cattle Farm. — The Proprietor at 
Home. — Inhospitable Reception. — The Peons. — Insulting Treat- 
ment. — An Irishman and his Opinions. — We reach the River. — 
Gold Prospects. — We return to the Tigre. — My Companion's 
Fate 49 



CHAPTER V. 

ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANA. 

Rosario. — Departure from the Tigre. — A Dialogue. — I visit the M. 

— The Irish Barrister's Son. — I return to the City. — Leave Bue- 
nos Ayres. — Banks of the River. — El Rosario. — Schools, &c. — 
Enterprise of the People. — Diligences. — The Press. — Vigilantes. — 
Parana. — Its Position. — Bank. — Railroad audits Prospects. . . . 68 

CHAPTER VI. 

A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY. 

A new Acquaintance. — An Invitation. — We set out upon the Plains. — 
Incidents of the Journey. — A Pampa Lord. — We visit his Mansion. 

— The House and its Inmates. — Cattle. — Niata Breed. — Ostriches. 
Riding a wild Colt. — Trial of Horses. — The Boliadores. — Estancia 
Life. — The Gauchos. — Duties on the Cattle Farm. — Feast Days 
and Aguardiente. — Customs of the Gauchos. — Training Colts. — 
The Herdsman's Dress 76 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTEE VII. 

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS. 

Don Jose* and my new Guardian.— Preparations for Departure.— 
Pampa Carts. — Method 6f driving Oxen. — Fresh Meat. — A Santa. 

— Farewell to Rosario. — The Caravan. — A Halt. — Novel Mode of 
Cooking. — First Lesson in Gaucho Etiquette. — A Name. — Habits 

of the Bizcacha. — Burrowing Owls. — First Night in the Pampas. . 1C1 

CHAPTER VIII. 

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS — CONTINUED. 

A new Dress. — Riding a Ram. — Deer.— Parrots. — Mirages. — A 
Troop of Carts. — A Plantana. — Grass on fire. — Another Cara- 
van. — Armadillos. — Guardia de la Esquina. — A sad Story. — Ir- 
reverence of the Peons. — Cabeza del Tigre. — Indian Attack. — 
Saladillo. — I visit a Rancho. — Punta del Sauce. — Its Inhabi- 
tants. —A geographical Dispute. — La Reduccion. — Paso Durazno. 

— Cerro Moro in the distance. — Indian female Spies 117 

CHAPTEE IX. 

FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO. 

Rio Quarto. — Indian Incursions. — A novel Method of charging a 
Cannon. — Scarcity of Bread. —A Bath. — The Peons' Objection to 
Bathing. — Ox-brain Soup. — A mule Troop. — The Madrina. — Ar- 
madillos. — Their Habits. — A Caravan from Mendoza. — Bread and 
Ovens. — Preparations for a hungry Time. — A Prostration 136 

CHAPTEE X. 

FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO — CONTINUED. 

Prospects and Experiences. — The Peons' dislike for the " Gringo." — 
Fear of Dr. Carmel. — Little Juan. — Suspicious Movements. — 
Sympathy of the China Women. — Intrigue. — The Breakfast. — 
Don Manuel lacks Etiquette. — Sickness. — A Dream 152 



8 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XI. 

SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. 

Don Manuel the Capataz. — His Services as Vaqueano. -— A Mendoza 
Troop of Carts. — Approach to the " Interior Town." — Appearance 
of San Luis de la Punta. — The Governor. — Indian Troubles. — A 
Captive. — Indian Attack. — Treatment of Foreigners. — On the Tra- 
vesia. — Watering Places. — Cacti. — Cochineal. — Condiments. — 
Saline Mineral. — Its Properties and Analysis by Dr. A. A. 
Hayes. — Conjectures as to its Origin ••••••••••• 165 



CHAPTER XII. 

ON THE TRAVESIA. 

We cross the Desaguadero. — Artificial Canals. — La Paz. — Results of 
Irrigation. — View of the Andes. — An Invitation to Dinner. — Gor- 
mandizing of the Peons. — Santa Rosa. — Goats. — Alto Verde. — 
Camp on the Road. — A Bath. — Goitre. — Preparations for entering 
Mendoza. — The little China. — Arrogance of the Santiaguenos. — 
Plants of the Travesia. — Dwellings. — A Dialogue. — We enter the 
Town. — An English Doctor. — Cool Treatment. — Circo Olywpico. 
— A Visit to Plaza Nueva . 182 



CHAPTER XIII. 

MENDOZA. 

A Disappointment. — Mendoza. — The Alameda. — The Governor. — 
Houses, Churches, &c — Doings of the Priests. — The Confession- 
als. — Padre A. — Madcap young Ladies. — Musical Bells. — 
Theatre. — Inhabitants. — The Goitre. — San Vicente. — School 
Library.— Newspaper and Press of Vansice. — Celebration of the 
25th of May. — Soldiers. — Circus Performers. — Arrival of Indians 
from the South. — Veracity of the Cacique. — The Correo and his 
Men. — Casuchas. — Snow Travel. — A new Character introduced. 
— Destruction of the City. — Departure for San Juan. — The con- 
suming Lake. — Fishes. — Arrival at San Juan 195 



CONTENTS. 9 

CHAPTER XIV. 
A WINTER IN SAN JUAN. 

At San Juan. — Wet and dry Winters. — Don Guillermo Buenaparte. 

— Visit to Causete. — I become a Miller. — Natural History.— 
The Mill. — New Characters. — The Scenery. — A curious Lot. — * 
Inhabitants of San Juan. — The Town. — Trade and Productions. 

— Agricultural Tools. — Irrigation. — Don Jose the Penitent. ... 216 

CHAPTER XV. 

A WINTER IN SAN JUAN— CONTINUED. 

A Mine. — A new Acquaintance. — An Account of the Prowess of a 
Diablo. — His Dress. — Horse's Trappings. — The Rastreador. — His 
Skill. — A Translation from Sarmiento 229 

CHAPTER XVI. 

VIENTE DE ZONDA. 

Regarding the Zonda Wind. — Miers's Opinion. — Courses of the 
Zondas. — A Wind of long Duration. — South Wind. — Speculations 
upon the Starting-point of the Zondas 239 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE. 

Don Guillermo relates his Adventures. — Leaves New Bedford. — De- 
serts his Ship for another. — Rock of Dunda. — Terrapin Island. — 
Sufferings and Escape from the Place. — Marquesas Islands. — 
Leaves the Vessel. — Life among the Cannibals. — Cruel Fate of his 
Companions. — Settles down to Marquesan Life. — A Ship. — Es- 
cape of Don Guillermo. — Other Adventures. — Leaves Chili. — Ad- 
ditional Remarks 245 



10 CONTENTS. 

■* 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

CROSSING THE ANDES. 

Preparations for leaving San Juan. — I leave the Mill. — The Post 
House —The Minister and his friendly Offer.— The Flecha.— El Du- 
razno. — The Hut and its Occupants. — The Vinchuca. — A blood- 
less Battle. — El Sequion. — Chinas. — A Troop of Mules, and a 
Night with the Capataz. — Up the Valley. — A Hut and a pretty 
Senorita. — An elevated Plain. — Camp. — Sunrise in the Andes. — 
The Road to Uspallata. — Don Fernandez. — An Invitation. — 
Farewell to Uspallata. — Indian Structures. — A sad Tale. — Cueste 
de la Catedral. — La Punta de las Vacas 277 

CHAPTER XIX. 

CROSSING THE ANDES — CONTINUED. 

Descent of the Andes. — Vaqueano Mule. — Waiting for the Snow to 
crust over. — Strange Scenery. — Below the Snow. — Another Snow- 
Hut. — A Drift. — Travellers from Chili. — Preparations for ascend- 
ing the Cordillera. — Remedy for the Puna. — A hard Road. — On 
the Cumbre 296 

CHAPTER XX. 

FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. 

Passage down the Valley. — Eyes of Water. — The Chilians and their 
Characteristics. — San Rosa. — A Chilian Welcome. — A Feast. — 
The River Aconcagua. — Quillota. — At Valparaiso. — Departure 
for Home 305 



A THOUSAND MILES' t WALK. 



CHAPTER I. 
PASSAGE TO THE EIVER PLATA. 

ONE cold November morning, in compliance with 
previous orders, I reported myself ready for duty 
at the shipping office of Messrs. S. and K., Commercial 
Street, Boston, and having received, as is customary, 
one month's wages in advance, proceeded with my 
baggage to Battery Wharf, at the foot of which lay the 
bark M., destined to be my future home for many 
weeks. As but one of the crew had already gone on 
board, I had ample leisure for examining the vessel, on 
board of which I was to receive my first lessons in 
practical seamanship, and to endure privations hitherto 
happily unknown to me. The M. was not prepossess- 
ing in appearance, and I confess that her model did 
not give a favorable idea of her sailing qualities : 
vessels, like horses, have peculiar external points by 
which their virtues may be judged, and their speed 
determined. As I gazed upon her long, straight sides, 
square bows, and box-like hull, it seemed to me that 
her builders must have mistaken her ends ; for, certes, 
had her spars been reversed, she would have made 

(ii) 



12 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

better progress by sailing stem foremost. Some know- 
ing ones, who have since examined this specimen of 
marine architecture of twenty years ago, have sustained 
my suspicion that the M. belonged to that enduring 
fleet of cruisers, now scattered over the great deep, 
which were originally built in the State of Maine, of 
which report is made that " these vessels are built by 
the mile, and sawed off according to the length ordered 
by the buyer." 

The mate, who was occupied in receiving live stock, 
— i. e., two young pigs, — ordered me to stow my things 
"for'ard;" an order somewhat difficult to comply with, 
as the forecastle was well filled with firewood, ropes, 
blocks, swabs, and the various other articles used on 
shipboard. 

I crawled down the dark passage, and was feeling 
about to discover the dimensions of a sailor's home, 
doubting, meanwhile, whether, in reality, this narrow 
hole could be the abode intended for human beings, 
when suddenly a gruff voice called down to me, 
" Come, youngster, bear a hand ! Make yourself live- 
ly! We must clean out this shop before the crew 
come down ; stir yourself, and pass me up the pieces." 
Obeying these peremptory commands, I applied my- 
self to work, and in an hour's time my companion 
declared the place " ship-shape, and fit for sailors." I 
would remark, en passant, that this declaration was 
made in the face of the fact that mould and dust cov- 
ered the timbers and boards, and cockroaches filled the 
many crevices. " But," said my companion, with a 
philosophical air, "if the place were carpeted, and 
lighted with a fine lamp, the fellows would be the 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 13 

more dissatisfied; the better treated they are, the 
worse they growl." At the time I inwardly dissented 
from the truth of this remark ; but subsequent experi- 
ences taught me the old salt was right. 

As I had been of service in removing all the lumber, 
I thought to repay myself by securing a good bunk, 
and therefore chose an upper one. After I had given 
it a thorough cleaning, and had carefully stowed away 
my mattress and blanket, one of the new crew entered 
the forecastle, and, on noticing my labors, at once re- 
moved my bed, and placed his own in its place, 
remarking, at the same time, that it was a highly im- 
polite and lubberly action for an understrapper to 
"bunk down where he didn't belong; upper bunks 
were metis bunks; lower ones, boys'." Although I 
pleaded ignorance of the etiquette of the forecastle, 
and selected another resting-place, my shipmate con- 
tinued his lecture on the rules of the sea, and hinted 
at the future " rope's-endings from the little man aft," 
as he called the mate, in store for me. 

During his harangue two or three of my old school- 
fellows came aboard, and, on visiting my quarters, 
remarked upon the poor accommodations and filthiness 
to which I was to be doomed ; upon which remark 
the old tar broke out with, " And so this is a young 
gentleman going to sea for the first time ? O, ho ! 
All right. I'll be his guardian, and keep an eye on 
him when he's aloft, and, to start fair, if my opinion 
was asked, I'd say we'd better go up the wharf, and 
splice the matter over a social glass." At this hint, so 
delicately conveyed, we gave the fellow a sum sufficient 
to allay his thirst, had it been never so great, and he 



14 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

at once took leave of us, only to return, however, in a 
few minutes, declaring that he had lost every cent, at 
the same time reiterating his offer to become my friend 
for a consideration. 

The noise of the tow-boat now called us on deck, 
where we found a perfect Babel of confusion, caused 
by the throng of porters, boarding-house runners, idlers, 
and sailors' friends, who were giving and receiving ad- 
vice in quantities to last until the vessel returned to 
her port. About this time I was touched on the 
shoulder by a rough-looking personage in a sailor's 
dress, who took me aside, and inquired if I really in*- 
tended going to sea. " Because," said he, " if you are, 
let me give you a bit of advice. I'm an old shelly and 
can steer my trick as well as the next one ; and as 
we're to be shipmates, and you're young, all you've got 
to do is to stick close to me, and I'll larn yer all the 
moves." After showing so kind an interest in my 
affairs, he hinted, like the other man, that there was 
" still time enough to step up to the house, and splice 
the main brace." As I was ignorant of this point in 
seamanship, I handed him some money, that he might 
perform it alone, when he disappeared. I saw nothing 
more of him for the next half hour ; and it was only 
when the vessel was about moving off that he staggered 
over the rail, to all appearances well braced ; and as he 
expressed a desire to handle all on board, from the 
" old man " (the captain) " in the cabin to the doctor " 
(cook) "in the galley," I concluded that his splicing 
had received especial attention, and that his strands 
would not unravel for several hours to come. 

These scenes on board of the M., while getting 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVEfc PLATA, 15 

under way, were comparatively tame to others that I 
have since witnessed on other vessels. I have known 
men to be carried on board ship by their boarding 
masters, who had enticed them into their dens of in- 
famy, and who had drugged them so powerfully that 
they did not recover their senses until the vessel had 
left the port. In this manner, fathers of families, me- 
chanics, tradesmen, and other persons wholly unfitted 
for a sea life have been carried off, unknown by their 
friends. When full consciousness returned to the un- 
happy victims, they sought the officers for an explana- 
tion, when I have seen them so beaten and kicked, 
that in apprehension for their lives, they bowed in 
submission to a tyranny worse than that of slavery 
itself. 

After lying for more than twenty-four hours, wind- 
bound, in the outer harbor, all hands were called before 
daylight, and though the mercury stood but a few de- 
grees above the freezing point, the decks were washed 
down ; after which operation the anchor was weighed, 
and we set sail out upon the bosom of the broad Atlan- 
tic. When we were fairly under way, we were set 
to work stowing away chains and ropes, securing the 
water casks upon deck, lashing the anchors upon the 
rail; then a short breathing spell was allowed us. 
While looking to windward, an old sailor, with whom 
I had commenced a friendship, which I was determined 
to strengthen, said, " Here, boy : do you see that land, 
there ? It is the last you will see until we drop anchor 
in the River Plata." I gazed long upon it. It was 
Cape Cod. Its white sand-hills looked cold and drear, 
as the sea beat against their bases, some of which were 



16 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

smooth and sloping, others steep and gullied by the 
rains. An hour after this the breeze freshened, the 
light sails were taken in, and the topsails double- 
reefed; and as the sea ran higher, and our little vessel 
grew proportionably uneasy, I began to experience the 
uncomfortable nausea and dizziness of seasickness, 
which, added to the repulsive smell and closeness of 
the forecastle, completely overcame my fortitude, 
when retiring to my bunk I tried to make myself 
comfortable. 

About five o'clock in the afternoon all hands were 
mustered upon the quarter-deck, and the watches 
chosen. To my satisfaction I was selected by the 
mate, and had the further gratification of finding that 
old Manuel, my friend, had also been chosen for our 
watch — a result which evidently delighted him as much 
as myself. Ours was the larboard watch, and remained 
upon deck, while the captain's, or starboard watch, 
went below. The duties of sea life had now fairly 
commenced. 

The two hours that followed, from six to eight, were 
passed in a pleasant conversation with the old French- 
man, Manuel. He informed me that he had his eye 
on the moves of the crew, and he concluded that there 
was but one sailor on board : it was left to my sagacity 
to infer that he meant himself. 

Two of the crew, who had shipped as ordinary sea- 
men, were ignorant of the duties for which they had 
contracted, and each man in the forecastle had shipped 
as an American-born citizen, with protection papers 
received from the Custom House, which legally as- 
serted him as such. These papers they had obtained 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 17 

from their boarding-house masters, who had purchased 
them at twenty-five cents each, and had retailed them 
to their foreign customers at seventy-five cents apiece. 
Of this American crew, two were Germans, or Dutch- 
men (an appellation given by sailors to all persons 
from the north of Europe), one of unknown parentage, 
who could only speak a few words of English, two 
Irishmen, one Englishman, another who swore point 
blank to being a native-born citizen of the States, an 
old mariner from Bordeaux, and myself. The law that 
makes it the duty of a captain to take with his crew a 
certain proportion of native-born Americans, had surely 
not been complied with here. To one of our crew I 
cannot do otherwise than devote a few lines. 

The " doctor," or cook, had already introduced him- 
self, and informed us in a short and patriotic speech, 
delivered at the galley door, that he would confess 
that his father was a distinguished Irish barrister, and 
that he himself possessed no little share of notoriety in 
th_e old country. He had once been taken by a cele- 
brated duchess, as she rode past in her carriage, for a 
son of the Marquis of B. His amusing vanity drew 
many expressions of contempt from the tars, who pro- 
nounced him to be " an idle Irish thief," which only 
served to make him wax more warm in his assumptions 
of gentility. He was interrupted in the midst of a 
high-flown harangue by the loud squealing of the pigs, 
which squealing reminded him that his duties must 
not be neglected for the purpose of edifying a crowd 
of ignorant tars. 

Our watch lasted until eight bells, when I went be- 
low, but had very little appetite for supper — a meal 
2 



18 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

consisting of salt beef, biscuits, and a fluid which the 
cook called tea, although, on trial, I was sadly puzzled 
to know how it could merit such an appellation. 

Of the three weeks which followed this first expe- 
rience of nautical life and its miseries, I can say but 
little, as I labored during this period under the exhaust- 
ing effects of seasickness, which reduced me to such a 
degree of weakness that I once fainted on the flying 
jib-boom, from which position of peril I was rescued 
and brought in by my friend Manuel. But this dis- 
tressing malady wore away, and at last became alto- 
gether a memory of the past. Despite hard fare and 
labor, I not only recovered my lost flesh, but grew 
rugged and hearty, and, moreover-, became tolerably 
familiar with the duties of a life at sea. 

I have alluded to our cook, and to his ineffable con- 
ceit, mock sentimentality, and Hibernian fertility of 
invention. 

It was his opinion that the " low-lived fellows " on 
board ought to feel highly honored by the presence in 
their midst of at least one gentleman — a title which he 
continually arrogated to himself. I am sorry to say, 
that as a cook he was not " a success." He cared very 
little about the quality of the food he served to us ; 
and its preparation was usually a subordinate consid- 
eration, with him, to the indulgence of his master pas- 
sion, — the perusal of highly-colored novels, — which he 
devoted every possible moment to. 

In the hope of improving my wretched diet, I ap- 
plied myself to the study of this man's character, and, 
having soon discovered his assailable point, supplied 
him with some works of fiction more entrancing than 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 19 

any he had hitherto possessed. I bought them just 
before our leaving home, thinking that perhaps some 
such an opportunity might offer for making a friend- 
ship with some of my messmates. His delight at re- 
ceiving them was extreme ; and I received in exchange 
for my favors many a dish that added a zest to my 
food, which it had hitherto altogether lacked. 

Whenever I wished to be entertained with some mar- 
vellous account of "life in the highest circles of Great 
Britain," I had only to request from the sympathetic 
cook a passage or two from his eventful life. It was 
his constant lament that he had never kept a dialogue 
(diary) of his travels, which, according to his account, 
must have surpassed those of most mortals in adven- 
ture and interesting incidents. 

Of our crew, his countryman, the " boy Jim," was his 
favorite. This Jim was the red-shirted sailor who had 
promised to instruct me in all the "moves" of an ex- 
perienced salt, before we had left the wharf at Boston. 
A very few days of our voyage, however, served to 
prove, that he not only had no claim to the title of 
"old salt," but also that he had never learned to "steer 
a trick at the wheel." The first order that he received 
from one of the mates was, " Boy Jim, lay aloft there, 
and slush down the foretop-gallant and royal masts ! " 
Seizing a tar bucket, and pointing aloft, he exclaimed, 
"Shure, sir, and which of them sticks is it that ye 
mane ? " thus laying bare his ignorance of all nautical 
matters, and bringing on himself the ridicule of the 
whole ship's crew. 

As with head winds we slowly drew near the vari- 
ables, or horse latitudes, rainy weather, accompanied 



20 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

by squalls of wind, commenced, and for twenty-one 
days and nights we were wet to the skin : clothes, bed- 
ding, all were saturated from the effects of a leaky 
deck ; and it was a common occurrence to find, on 
awakening from slumber, a respectable stream of water 
descending into the close and crowded forecastle. 
When on deck our oil clothes did not protect us, for 
from our having worked in them constantly, the oil 
coating had worn off: so, at the end of a watch, we 
wrung out our under garments, and turned into our 
narrow bunks, where we quickly fell asleep, and forgot 
our miseries and troubles, until we were aroused to 
them by the gruff voice of some sailor of the other 
watch, shouting down the companion-way, " Ay — 
you — Lar-bowlines — ahoy — there; eight — bells! Lay 
up here, bullies, and get your duff." Or, perhaps, "Do 
those fellows down there ever intend to relieve the 
watch ! " exclaimed in no pleasant tones by the captain 
of the other watch. 

The rainy season was succeeded by as delightful 
weather as we could have desired. A fair wind sprang 
up a few days before crossing the line, and with strain- 
ing canvas we sped on towards Buenos Ayres. The 
days passed pleasantly, and our duties became light 
and agreeable. Enjoyable as were these tranquil days, 
the nights were still lovelier in those latitudes. The 
moon seemed to shine with an unwontedly pure and 
spiritual light, and with a brightness known only to the 
clear atmosphere of the tropics. 

As we glided along, night after night, under a firma- 
ment studded with countless lights, and over a broad 
expanse ruffled with short, dark waves curling crisply 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 21 

into foam, I could hardly conceive a scene of more 
quiet beauty. Standing upon the forecastle deck, a 
glorious vision frequently met our gaze : a phospho- 
rescent light gleamed beneath the bows, and streamed 
along the sides and in the vessel's wake, looking like a 
train of liquid gems to the imaginative observer. If 
we looked aloft to the w T hite canvas of our wide-spread 
sails, we seemed borne along by some gigantic bird, of 
which the sails were the powerful wings, to the distant 
horizon, in which were the Southern Cross and other 
larger constellations, burning, like beacon lamps, lead- 
ing us on to our destined port. 

During these days and nights our attention was not 
unfrequently attracted to the dwellers in the deep, 
which were constantly sporting around us. Schools 
of black-fish and porpoises continually crossed our track ; 
and large numbers of flying-fish often shot across our 
bows, sometimes leaving at our mercy a few stragglers 
upon the decks. 

Upon such nights as I have described, when acting 
as lookout by the windlass bits, old Manuel frequently 
came to my side, and conversed upon the various topics 
connected with his past life, which had been an event- 
ful one. He was born in Bordeaux. His mother died 
when he was an infant, leaving him to the care of his 
father, w T ho owned and commanded a small vessel en- 
gaged in the coasting trade. 

While very young, Manuel preferred playing about 
the streets of his native city, and hiding, with other 
boys, among the vines which covered his father's dwell- 
ing, to following any plan of education proposed by 
his father. Under the direction of an uncle, however, 



22 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

he attended school when nine years old, and learned to 
read and write during the two succeeding years. So 
rapid was his progress, that the uncle, who was wealthy, 
offered to defray his expenses if he would fit himself 
for the university ; but Manuel preferred following the 
fortunes of his father for a season, and accordingly 
sailed with him along the coasts of France and Spain. 
But the voyage was not destined to be a pleasant 
one. The boy was continually offending his father, 
who was a cold and unlovable man ; and one after- 
noon, while performing certain antics upon the main- 
topsail-yard-arm, the old gentleman called him down, 
and rewarded his exertions with a lusty application of 
the end of the main sheet, which rope's-ending was 
not to Manuel's taste. He availed himself of the first 
opportunity, deserted the vessel, and joined a fine ship 
sailing to Havana. Before reaching Cuba he had be- 
come acquainted with the ropes, and not wishing to 
return to his parent until time had soothed his outraged 
feelings, he left the ship, and became a destitute wan- 
derer in a foreign land. He was at that time twelve 
years of age. Being led into bad company, he joined 
a slaver, bound for the west coast of Africa. The ga- 
lota in which he sailed reached the Rio Congo, and 
received on board nine hundred negroes, nearly all of 
whom were landed safely in Cuba. His wages, as boy, 
amounted to fifty dollars per month ; but, though en- 
gaged in so profitable an undertaking, his sense of 
right caused him to leave his unprincipled associates, 
and to seek employment elsewhere. Since that time 
he had served beneath the flag of nearly every mari- 
time nation, and had also fought in the China wars. 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 23 

For thirteen years he had sailed from Boston and New 
York, choosing the American republic as his adopted 
country, for which he was willing, as he declared, to 
shed his best blood, should necessity require. 

While conversing with Manuel, one morning before 
sunrise, I was surprised by his suddenly jumping to his 
feet and scanning the horizon. At length he exclaimed, 
" There is a sight you may never see again. I have 
crossed the line many times in this longitude, but never 
beheld that before to-day ! " At this moment the mate, 
who had been keeping a long lookout, disappeared be- 
low, returning in a moment with the captain. Looking 
in the direction pointed out by the old sailor, I dis- 
cerned far away to the south-south-east, broken water ; 
and, as the daylight advanced, we were soon able to 
distinguish two detached and rugged rocks, rising out 
of the sea, together with many smaller peaks rising out 
of the water around them. One of these bore a strik- 
ing resemblance to a sugar-loaf This group was the 
St. Paul's Rocks. When first seen they appeared 
dark and drear; but, as our vessel approached them, 
we discovered that the excrements of myriads of sea- 
fowl, with which they were covered, had made them 
of a glistening white, presenting a strange appearance, 
not wholly devoid of the picturesque. Here, at no less 
a distance than five hundred and forty miles from the 
continent of South America, these peaks, the summits 
of mountains whose bases are planted in unfathomed 
depths, arise. 

The rocks lie in longitude twenty-nine degrees fif- 
teen minutes west, and are only fifty-eight miles north 
of the equator. The highest peak rises but fifty feet 



24 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

above the sea, and is not more than three quarters of a 
mile in circumference. 

These isolated rocks have been visited by a few per- 
sons only. Darwin, the naturalist, made a thorough 
investigation into their natural history. Among birds, 
the booby gannet and noddy tern were found ; both 
species being very tame, depositing their eggs and 
rearing their young in great numbers. Darwin, in his 
account of the tenants of these rocky islets, observes, 
"It was amusing to watch how quickly a large and 
active crab (Grapsus), which inhabits the crevices of 
the rocks, stole the fisl^ from the side of the nest, as 
soon as we had disturbed the parent birds. Sir W. 
Symonds, one of the few persons who have landed 
here, informs me that he saw these crabs dragging 
even the young birds out of the nests, and devouring 
them. Not a single plant, nor even lichen, grows on 
this islet ; yet it is inhabited by several insects and 
spiders. The following list completes, I believe, the 
terrestrial fauna: A fly (Olfersia), living on the 
booby, and a tick, which must have come here as a 
parasite on the birds ; a small brown moth, belonging 
to a genus that feeds on feathers ; a beetle (Quedius), 
and a wood-louse from beneath the dung ; and, lastly, 
numerous spiders, which, I suppose, prey on these small 
attendants and scavengers of the water-fowl." 

I afterwards met, among the many roving characters 
with whom the traveller becomes acquainted, a person, 
who, in his younger days, had been engaged not only 
in privateering, but also in the lucrative, though inhu- 
man, slave traffic. He knew of many instances when 
slavers and freebooters had been obliged to visit St. 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 25 

Paul's from necessity, not only for the purpose of secur- 
ing the rain-water that is caught in the cavities and 
depressions in the rock, but also to procure a supply of 
the fish which play about the islets in large schools, or, 
more properly, perhaps, shoals, or schules. 

Although our vessel was built before the age of 
clippers, and consequently made slow progress through 
the water, St. Paul's was far astern by ten o'clock. 
A fresh breeze sprang up, and, as it continued fair, we 
were wafted along smoothly day after day towards our 
destined port. 

At length the sudden changes of the atmosphere, 
and careful consultations of the officers, and admoni- 
tions "to keep a bright lookout ahead," warned the 
forecastle hands that we were nearing the Rio Plata, 
the great Miver of Silver, whose broad mouth we were 
soon to enter, there to gaze upon the shores of another 
continent. 

The nights seemed cooler, and the beautiful appear- 
ance of the heavens, as the sun, with a broader disk, 
sank beneath the western horizon, particularly attracted 
our attention. As it slowly disappeared, clouds of many 
varied hues gathered above it like heavy drapery, as 
if to conceal its flight ; while others, taking the form 
of long ranges of mountains, with here and there a tall 
peak towering up into the clearer firmament, presented 
a panorama of exquisite beauty and grandeur. But 
all evenings were not of this description. Sometimes 
the heavens darkened, and for two or three hours not 
a breath of air moved the murky atmosphere. Long, 
dark swells came rolling towards us from the south- 
east, sure indicators of the distant pampero, the hurri- 



26 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

cane of La Plata. When these swells were visible, the 
crew at once became active : every light sail was 
snugly furled, and the topsails double reefed, for our 
captain was a prudent man, who had sailed long enough 
in these latitudes to know the fearful devastation that 
is often occasioned by the pampero. Before our voy- 
age terminated we had an opportunity to appreciate 
this trait in his seamanship. 

One afternoon, when within four or five days' sail of 
the mouth of the Plata, the sky became overcast with 
murky clouds, while the distant thunder -find lightning 
in the south-west warned us of the proximity of the 
hurricane. " All hands " were called, and we hurried 
to our stations ; but before everything could be made 
snug aloft, a fierce shower of hail descended, pelting us 
mercilessly ; and glad enough we were to get below, at 
four bells, to supper. The wind increased, and blew 
very hard for an hour or more, when it became calmer; 
but still the heavy sea came rolling towards us, mak- 
ing our stout bark toss and pitch about as if old 
Neptune were irritated at her sluggish ways. We 
congratulated ourselves at our easy escape from the 
pamper O) but we should have remembered the 
old saying, "Never shout until you are out of the 
wood." 

As we were below, discussing various subjects, we 
were joined by the cook, who descended the ladder, 
requesting the loan of a novel, declaring that he was 
dying by inches of the " onwy." " Get out of this, you 
and your trash ! " shouted an old tar : " this is no place 
for distinguished characters." 

But the " doctor " did not appear to be disconcerted 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 27 

in the least at this rude salutation and reference to his 
pretensions. 

" Ah, boys ! " he exclaimed, with a touch of senti- 
mentality, "how can ye be so boistherous? Here we 
are, every hour dhrawing nearer and nearer to that 
mighty river which runs past Buenos Ayres ; and does 
not the thought of it inspire ye with romantic feelings ? 
As for meeself, I can scarce slape at night for the ec- 
static thoughts that crowd me brain. Ye may all 
laugh," he continued, as some of the sailors interrupted 
him with a boisterous laugh, "but it does not alter the 
case in the ]aste, for it is thrue. To-night, when I was 
standing in the galley, the thought came to me, that 
perhaps the boy here," pointing to myself, " would like 
a few stanzas of poetry for his dialogue (diary), which 
he is keeping ; so I, in my mind, composed a few lines, 
which, if he wants, I will recite to him. 

At this, some of the sailors exclaimed, " Get out of 
this, for a dirty sea-cook as you are, and don't attempt 
to spoil sensible people." 

I, however, said that I would be pleased to receive 
his stanzas, and, preparing my pencil and paper, wrote 
down the following lines as he recited them, together 
with the interpolations and remarks of the sailors. 
Striking a beatific attitude, the poet began : — 

"I saw her; yes, I saw her." 

Old Salt (gruflay). " What if you did ? If she saw 
you, she sickened, I dare swear ! " 
The Doctor (continuing). 

"Tripping along so gayly, 
With mantilla fluttering in the wind." 



28 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Old Salt 2d. "Shaking in the wind's eye, in a 
squall." 

The Doctor. 

"Eyes like a dove's in mildness, 
Or an eagle's in its wildness." 

Old Salt 1st. "More like a hen's with one chicken." 
Old Salt 3c?. "Or a sick rooster with one tail- 
feather." 
The Doctor. 

" Smiles they were sweet, 
Lips together did meet." 

Old Salt 1st (dubiously). "Lips together did meet? 
I wonder, mateys, if she wasn't smacking them after a 
glass of grog ? " 

The Doctor. 

" Clamors of war and terrible drums, 
Noise of trumpets and the hum of tongues, 
Can frighten the timid, but not her ; 
For brave as a lion, dauntless as fire, 
She's ruled by love, and not by ire." 

Here some of the sailors pretended to faint ; others 
reeled off to their bunks, saying that the doctor's 
poetry was " worse than his duff, and that wasn't fit to 
give a measly hog;" while one old fellow ascended 
to the deck, declaring that he "couldn't sleep after 
hearing such blasted nonsense, until he had taken a 
salt junk emetic." 

The doctor would have continued his poetry, not- 
withstanding the ridicule of the " low, ignorant fellows," 
as he called them ; but he was interrupted by the voice 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 29 

of the mate, calling down to the cook to " doctor the 
binnacle lamp," when the poet hurried up the com- 
panion-way, leaving me to turn in, and dream of 

"Lips that together did meet, 
Clamors of wars, and terrible drums," 

until the man at the wheel struck eight bells. 



30 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER II. 
IN THE KIVER PLATA. 

AT length the day for making preparations for near- 
ing land arrived. One fine afternoon the order 
was given to have everything ready for entering the river. 
All hands were kept on deck, and every one manifested 
an unusual readiness to work. The lashings were cut 
adrift from the anchors ; the chain drawn out of the 
locker, and overhauled upon the deck; and the other 
matters attended to, which are not to be neglected on 
a ship about coming to an anchorage. Towards night, 
the changing color of the water, which in the deep 
ocean is of a dark blue, but which had now become 
of a greenish tinge, told us of the proximity of land. 

Atsunrise of the next morning, the cry of, "Land on 
the starboard bow ! " awoke me from a sound slumber. 
Hurrying on deck, I was able to discover a faint streak 
of red in the distant horizon, which a sailor declared to 
be " the loom of the land ; " and by eight o'clock the low 
shores of the Uruguayan republic were distinctly visi- 
ble from our deck, and the monotony of our sea life was 
at an end. 

As it was necessary to take a pilot on board, we were 
obliged to first make Montevideo, the great seaport of 
the Banda Oriental, or Uruguayan republic, which 



IN THE RIVER PLATA. 31 

country, as most of my readers are doubtless aware, 
was formerly a constant bone of contention between 
Buenos Ayres and Brazil, but is now independent of 
both, and according to all accounts promises to become 
the greatest producer of wool of the South American 
republics. 

A light breeze wafted us past the rocky isle of Flores 
to Montevideo, where, about dusk, we dropped anchor 
at a distance of three miles from the shore. 

While aloft, I had time to observe that a conical 
mountain, with smooth sides, and crowned by an old 
fort, was connected with the main land by a peninsula, 
in such a manner that a fine bay was formed, where a 
large fleet of vessels were lying at anchor. The fort 
on the mount showed a light, four hundred and seventy- 
five feet above the level of the sea. The town lies on 
the opposite side of the bay, to the eastward of the 
mountain, from which fact it derives its name. 

By the time the sails were furled, and several addi- 
tional ranges of chain overhauled, night came on, and 
the anchor watch was set, with orders to call the mate 
if it lightened in the south-west, the. region of pam- 
peros. 

My watch was from nine to ten: when I was re- 
lieved, I went below with a light heart, and " turned 
in " to my bunk, with the prospect of unbroken rest. 
It was perhaps an hour later that I was awakened by 
the confused sounds on deck, caused by the " letting 
go " the second anchor, and the loud calling down the 
companion-way for "all hands on deck." Hurrying 
above, we found that a pampero had struck the vessel, 
which was moving through the water at the rate of at 



32 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

least four miles an hour before the force of the hurri- 
cane. When the second anchor became fast, however, 
the vessel's course was checked, she swung around, 
broadside to the wind, and held her ground. The 
force of the wind striking our backs was so great that 
we were obliged to take shelter beneath the bulwarks 
to recover our breath. 

The darkness was intense, save when flashes of light- 
ning illumined every headland along the coast, and 
threw out in bold relief the mountain and its castle. 
But duty called us from the protection of the bulwarks 
to the chain lockers. Vainly, however, did the officers 
vociferate their commands ; not a word could we un- 
derstand ; but we instinctively laid hold of the chain, 
and, guided by flashes of lightning, paid out many 
fathoms. Hardly had we accomplished our object in 
giving scope to the cable, when a noise like thunder 
announced that one of the sails, the main spencer, had' 
broken adrift, and in an instant it beat and clattered 
across the quarter-deck. From side to side it tore, cut- 
ting the rigging to pieces, with the block at its clew. 
Half an hour's labor was ineffectual in securing the 
sail, though ends of braces were strongly passed around 
it; it continually broke loose, tumbling upon the deck 
all the men who were clinging to it, and we might have 
labored much longer, had not Manuel crawled aloft, 
and cut the sail adrift, by coming down the jack-stay, 
knife in hand. 

The spencer had not been securely fastened before 
from between the harness-casks, the mizzen staysail, 
which had been carefully furled, seemed endowed with 
life, for in an instant it ran up its stay like a bird, and 
was at once torn to shreds. 



EFFECTS OF THE HUERICANE. 33 

At this point the prospect was fair for a wreck. The 
captain brought an axe on deck to prepare for the last 
resort. But such a fierce wind fortunately could not 
last long ; its own force must prove exhaustive : it soon 
came only in gusts, and two hours later it had greatly 
subsided. 

The scene now around us challenged our attention ; 
and, until morning, I leaned across the rail, completely 
engrossed with the many curious phenomena before me. 

The air was filled with electrical flashes, which at 
times rendered the tall mount plainly visible, and 
brought out the spars of the fleet in the bay in weird- 
like prominence against the gloomy background. 

The fort on the height seemed clothed with flame, 
while the short, quick waves around the vessel gleamed 
with phosphorescent light. The pampero had struck the 
vessel during the watch succeeding mine, and the man 
on duty became so frightened that he did not call the 
mate. Luckily, that officer discovered the true state 
of affairs in time to prevent a serious disaster. 

The dawn of the following morning revealed a sight 
such as might be expected after so violent -a hurricane. 
In one part of the harbor were two vessels, whose crews 
were hard at work in clearing them from the entangle- 
ment of their rigging, which was completely wrecked. 

Close by lay two others, with their topmasts gone, 
and in the distance were many others in a similar con- 
dition ; while from the town came floating logs, boxes, 
barrels, and other lumber in great quantities, telling of 
the havoc of the pampero. 

The effect of the wind was even felt to a greater ex- 
tent farther up the river, where some fifteen or twenty 
3 



34 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

small vessels were capsized, and many of the crews 
drowned. 

A new and beautiful English bark, that had left 
her anchorage for Buenos Ayres the night before, we 
saw two days afterwards ; but she was nothing but a 
dismantled hulk, with only the stump of her mizzenmast 
left : every spar had been blown away, and one of her 
men killed by a falling mast. 

Though the pampero season generally lasts from 
March to September, this wind is likely to blow at any 
time; and a careful captain will always be prepared 
for it. The state of the mercury in his barometer, to- 
gether with the appearance of the heavens in the south- 
west, must be carefully watched. These winds, coming 
from the cold summits of the Andes, sweep first across 
an undulating, then a flat country; and, meeting no 
obstacle to break their force, do great damage to the set- 
tlements about Buenos Ayres, as well as to the shipping 
in the River Plata, and are felt many miles out to sea. 

The River Plata, at its entrance, between Cape St. 
Mary on the north coast, and Cape St. Antonio on the 
south, is one hundred and seventy miles; and we can 
see that the pampero, in traversing this broad channel, 
has a most unobstructed course. 

At noon a pilot came aboard, bearing a letter from 
the owner's agent ; and at about eleven o'clock the fol- 
lowing night we hove up both anchors, and, with a fine 
breeze, sailed up the river. Thirty-six hours later, we 
dropped anchor in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, 
seven or eight miles from the city, whose plastered 
dwellings and lofty cathedral were plainly seen from 
the decks of our vessel. 



BUENOS AYEES. . 35 



CHAPTER III. 

BUENOS AYRES.— THE PROVINCE AND CITY. 

FOR a whole month I was obliged to remain by 
the vessel, awaiting the arrival of the orders 
that were to set me free. During this period, to pre- 
pare the vessel for a long stay, the lighter spars were 
sent down, the flying jib-boom sent in, sails unbent, 
&c. The tides in the River Plata are governed by 
the wind, and have no regularity in rising ; the cur- 
rent of the river is at the rate of three miles per hour. 
Vessels drawing above eleven feet of water remain in 
the outer roads, while smaller craft can approach with- 
in two or three miles of the city ; all of these discharge 
and receive their cargoes by the assistance of lighters, 
generally schooner-rigged, and principally manned by 
foreigners, — chiefly French, Italian, Spanish, and Por- 
tuguese. 

At last, about the 20th of February, a Boston vessel 
entered the river, bringing letters from home, and I 
was gratified by the information from the captain, that, 
after seeing the American consul, who had received 
orders to discharge me from duty, I should be at lib- 
erty to depart on my long pedestrian journey. I went 
ashore at the earliest opportunity, and at once called 
upon Colonel Joseph Graham, the American consul, 



36 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

who received me with great kindness, but condemned 
my intention of crossing, alone, so wild a country, 
with the people and language of which I had no ac- 
quaintance ; he, however, furnished me with the neces- 
sary papers of protection, together with letters of intro- 
duction to various persons in the interior. During my 
stay in the consul's office Dr. Henry Kennedy, a young 
North American physician, came in, and although a 
stranger to me, presented me, after a few minutes' con- 
versation, with a letter of introduction to Mr. G — n, a 
resident of Rosario. This act of kindness towards a 
stranger .proved the generous character of Dr. Kenne- 
dy, and it is with a feeling of gratitude that I recall 
his name here. I was now my own master, and at 
once went about the city in search of information rela- 
tive to crossing the country. 

The consul and one or two other parties had given 
me the names of persons to whom I was to apply for 
the necessary information to guide me in my journey. 
I was surprised, however, to find that the foreign mer- 
chants knew so little of the interior ; for, after several 
days' inquiry, the principal fact that I learned was, 
that to cross the pampas on foot it would be necessary 
to accompany one of the troops of carts that carried 
merchandise to the other provinces, as otherwise I 
would find it impossible to obtain food or to follow the 
right trail. One of my informants was a stout little 
Irish gentleman, who quoted a message sent to Sir 
Woodbine Parish, by a gentleman who crossed the 
country several years before ; and as his description is 
almost true of the Buenos Ayrean, or southern road 
across the pampas, I will present it here. He said, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE PAMPAS. 37 

" The country is more uninteresting than any I ever 
travelled over, in any quarter of the globe. I should 
divide it into five regions ; first, that of thistles, inhab- 
ited by owls and biscachas ; second, that of grass, where 
you meet with deer, ostriches, and the screaming, 
horned plover; third, the region of swamps and mo- 
rasses, only fit for frogs ; fourth, that of stones and 
ravines, where I expected every moment to be upset ; 
and, last, that of ashes and thorny shrubs, the refuge 
of the tarantula and binchuco, or giant-bug. 

"And now," continued the little Irishman, "I ask 
leave to put you a question. How many days can you 
conveniently go without water ? 

" Two or three, perhaps, 55 I replied. 

" Well, then, you will never last to cross the plains, 5 ' 
was his encouraging answer ; " for, mark you, a merchant 
of this city crossed last summer, and went without w&ter 
for twenty-one days. I think you had better return to 
America, and give up travelling for information. 55 

Such were the stories — some true, and many, like 
that of the Irishman, utterly fabulous — that were told 
me by the different individuals upon whom I called 
during my short stay in Buenos Ayres. In the course 
of my inquiries I learned that a train of wagons would 
shortly leave Rosario, a small town upon the River 
Parana, about two hundred miles north of Buenos 
Ayres, for Mendoza, a town situated at the base of 
the Andes, and I resolved to visit the place in time 
to catch the caravan. A steamboat plied between 
the city of Buenos Ayres and Rosario, but as it 
was not to sail for a fortnight, I had ample time 
for surveying the adjacent country, and even for 



38 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK 

making a flying visit across the Plata to the Banda 
Oriental. 

The State of Buenos Ayres usually monopolizes the 
attention of visitors to the region which is known as 
the Argentine Confederation, on account of her favor- 
able situation on the seaboard, her possession of the 
only maritime port in the vast confederacy, and the 
predominating influence which these advantages have 
secured to her in peace as well as in war. The state 
contains an area of fifty-two thousand square miles, 
and is, consequently, but little larger than the State of 
New York. Her population, according to an estimate 
formed some ten years since, amounted to some three 
hundred and twenty thousand souls; of whom one 
hundred and twenty thousand are inhabitants of the 
city, while the remainder are sparsely distributed over 
the extensive plains that commence a few miles from 
the coast, and, running inland, stretch across and far 
beyond the limits of the state. The population of the 
city itself is composed of a great variety of types and 
colors, among which, however, the whites are rapidly 
predominating ; as every year introduces ne\^ blood 
from Europe and North America, while parties inter- 
ested are doing their best, in connection with the gov- 
ernment, to divert a portion of the Irish immigration 
from the United States towards their own province. 
The government furnishes immigrants with land free 
of charge, but an extortionate price is not unfrequently 
paid, in the end, for a farm. 

The study of the mixed races which inhabit, not 
only this province, but also the entire region between 
the Parana and the Cordillera, has as yet received but 



RESOURCES OF BUENOS AYRES. 39 

little attention from the student of ethnology. The 
lines of demarcation, however, between race and race, 
are clear and distinct ; and the future ethnographer of 
this region will have no difficulty in tracing the .popu- 
lation, through its intermediate stages of gauchos, zam- 
bas, mestizos, etc., to its origin with the immigration 
from Old Spain and other European countries, and to 
•the aboriginal and negro stocks. 

Throughout the state the soil 'is richly alluvial to 
a depth of two or more feet, beneath which lies a 
stratum of clay, differing in kind and quality according 
to its location. Thus strata of white, yellow, and red 
clays have been discovered in different regions of the 
same province, furnishing the population with abun- 
dant material for the manufacture of tiles, bricks, and 
innumerable articles of pottery. 

For nearly two hundred miles west of the La Plata, 
the soil produces a luxuriant growth of herbage, which 
is choked, however, in many places, by extensive forests 
of gigantic thistles, which grow to such a height that 
men, passing through them on horseback, are hidden 
by the lofty stems. So heavy is this growth that, at 
times, the thistle fields are impassable to man, and 
serve to the wild animals of the pampas as an undis- 
turbed lair. These thistles are fired, from time to time, 
by the gauchos; after the ground that they covered has 
been burnt over, a fine sweet crop of grass starts up, 
upon which the cattle feed luxuriantly. 

A native author, of eminent accuracy, who has care- 
fully studied the statistics and resources of the prov- 
ince of Buenos Ayres, has published the following 
estimate of the value of real estate and other property 
in the country, in 1855 : — 



40 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

State of Buenos Ayres, its ^Extent, Value, <fbc. 
Fifty-two thousand miles of uncultivated 

lands, at $1000 per square mile, . . .$52,000,000 
Six million head of cattle, at $6 per head, 36,000,000 
Three million mares, at $1 per head, . . 3,000,000 
Five million sheep, at $1 per head, . . . 5,000,000 
Haifa million swine, at $1 per head, . . 500,000 
Houses, &c, in the country, 10,000,000 

Total value, $106,500,000 

The following statement, derived from the Buenos 
Ayres Custom House, for the first six months of 1854, 
may serve as a means of estimating the number of 
horned cattle in the state : — 

Hides exported in six months, 1854, . . . 759,968 
Deduct quantity received from the provinces, 121,166 

Total exports of Buenos Ayres hides, in six 

months, 638,802 

Add a corresponding six months' exports 

for balance of the year, 638,802 

Estimated export for 1854, 1,277,604 

The following were some of the agricultural produc- 
tions of Buenos Ayres in 1854, as computed by Senor 
Maezo : — 

Wheat, 200,000 fanezas. 

Maize and barley, . . . 70,000 " 
Potatoes, 60,000 " 

The faneza is nearly equal to four English imperial 
bushels, or to 2218.192 cubic inches. 



BUENOS AYKES. 41 

Of late years the value of provisions, hides, tallow, 
and horns has been greatly enhanced. 

I am informed that under the government of Gen- 
eral Rosas, the price of beef was fixed by law at fifteen 
cents per arroba (twenty-five pounds), and that the 
severest punishment was inflicted for any attempt to 
evade or infringe upon the regulation. The price of 
beef during my stay in the province was never less 
than sixty cents per arroba. 

Frequent revolutions have naturally hindered, in a 
very great degree, the development of the resources 
of this province. Since 1810-11 it has been subjected 
to continual and sudden changes of government: at 
one moment, as it were, attempting to form the corner- 
stone of a vast confederation, in a short time the scene 
of the wildest anarchy, and soon prostrate under one 
of the most grinding despotisms that the nineteenth 
century has beheld. 

Buenos Ayres, the richest and most powerful of the 
provinces of La Plata, holds herself aloof from the re- 
mainder, preferring a state of isolation, through dislike 
for President Urquiza, to joining with her sister states 
in laying the foundation of a strong and permanent 
confederacy. Her import and export duties, together 
with port charges, stamps, direct taxes, &c, constitute 
a considerable revenue; and these resources would, 
undoubtedly, give her a powerful influence over the 
other states should she finally become a part of the 
Argentine Confederation. Though a coolness, almost 
amounting to ill-will, is manifested by the people of 
Buenos Ayres towards those of the neighborhood prov- 
inces, a treaty has been lately signed by the two 



42 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

governments, in which each promises aid and assist- 
ance to the other in case of attack from a neighboring 
or foreign power. It is evident, from their careful 
movements, that all the La Plata states stand in dread 
of their grasping and powerful neighbor -r- the empire 
of Brazil. 

The city of Buenos Ayres is laid out in the usual 
Spanish-American manner — in squares, measuring one 
hundred and fifty yards upon a side; the streets, of 
course, cross each other at right angles, and run due 
north and south, east and west. They are regular 
throughout, but are very roughly paved. With some 
exceptions the dwellings are of but one story in height, 
and are built of brick, overlaid with a white plaster, 
which gives them a very neat appearance; but the 
heavy iron gratings with which every window is pro- 
tected detract not a little from the beauty of the 
dwellings; and a stranger unaccustomed to Spanish 
architecture may readily, at the first sight of these for- 
bidding gratings, believe himself among the prisons of 
the city. The roofs are covered with oval or square 
tiles. 

Buenos Ayres is rich in public institutions. Her 
theatres and places of public resort are eight in num- 
ber, besides the governor's mansion, the House of 
Representatives, and the Casa de Justicia, or Hall of 
Justice. Besides these may be enumerated the Tribu- 
nal of Commerce, the Inspection of Arms, the Artillery 
Arsenal, the Ecclesiastical Seminary, the Museum of 
Natural History, Public Library, Custom House, Mint, 
Bank, and Jail. 

The treatment of the inmates of the latter institution 



BUENOS ATRES. 43 

secures for them a degree of comfort far less than that 
which is reached in our own reformatory institutions. 

In addition to the public buildings enumerated 
above, there are also suites of rooms occupied by the 
Ecclesiastical Court, the General Archives, Topograph- 
ical Department, Statistical Department, Medical Acad- 
emy, Historical Institute, etc. 

The citizens of Buenos Ayres have well provided for 
the unfortunate. Besides granting licenses to mendi- 
cants, and allowing them to go from door to door on 
horseback, the municipality has established an asylum 
for orphans and a foundling hospital. 

Besides the cathedral, there are thirteen Catholic 
churches, two monasteries, and three convents. There 
are two hospitals, one for males, the other for females ; 
but these institutions have neither the conveniences 
nor skilful physicians which those of more enlightened 
or longer established countries possess. There are 
also three foreign hospitals, supported by the English, 
French, and Italian governments. 

The plazas, or public squares, are nine or ten in 
number ; one of them is overlooked by the lofty cathe- 
dral and by the Casa de Justicia, and contains a monu- 
ment, erected in commemoration of past events of 
national importance, and especially of the Declaration 
of Independence from the mother country. 

Many improvements have been made in the city in 
late years, chief among which is the new brick sea- 
wall, of considerable height, protecting the town from 
damage by high tides of the river. 

From this wall, projecting into the stream, there was 
in process of construction at the time of my arrival a 



44 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

mole or wharf, of great length, which has since been 
completed, enabling small vessels and lighters to dis- 
charge their cargoes unassisted by the clumsy carts 
that formerly were the sole means of communication 
with the shore. The piles that support this wharf are 
pointed with iron, a precaution rendered necessary by 
the peculiarly hard formation of the river bed at this 
locality. 

As the soil is impregnated with nitrate of potash, 
the well and other water is rendered unfit for table 
use. The wealthier citizens have deep cisterns at their 
residences, in which rain water is preserved ; but the 
poorer classes have no other beverage than the river 
water, which is carried around the city in barrels, upon 
horses and mules, and retailed at a moderate price. 

Slavery, which existed in these regions in a mild 
form until 1813, was, during that year, abolished by 
law. The system never assumed, in point of fact, 
that form which existed in our own republic, but 
was so lenient that the slaves were treated rather as 
children, or favorite servants, than as merely so much 
property. 

Its gradual extinction set in many years before the 
period of legislation upon the subject. During the 
struggle for independence, the slave frequently fought 
side by side with his master, and manifested an equal 
anxiety with him to be liberated from the dominion of 
Spain. In consideration of services rendered during 
these patriotic struggles, and from a conviction that 
the system was far from beneficial to a newly-organ- 
ized republic, the slaves were emancipated, and their 
descendants now form a valuable and active class, re- 



DON SAEMIENTO. 45 

taming little of the indolence usually ascribed to the 
unfortunate races from which they sprung. 

During the ascendency of Rosas, the negro popula- 
tion was devotedly attached to Dona Manuelita, his 
celebrated daughter, and their influence with her w T as 
almost boundless. It is related that in 1840, while an 
attack by Lavalle was momentarily expected, a young 
man from the town of San Juan was in Buenos Ayres, 
and was forbidden, under pain of death, to leave the 
city. An aged negress, who had, in former years, been 
in the service of his family, happened to recognize 
him, and learned his anxiety to depart. " All right, 
my friend ! " she said ; " I will go at once, and get 
you a passport." " Impossible ! " exclaimed the young 
man. "Not at all," replied the negress. "La Senorita 
Manuelita will not deny it to me." 

In a quarter of an hour she brought a passport, 
signed by Rosas, enjoining his mercenaries to oppose 
no hinderance to the bearer's departure. 

Thus gained over by petty favors from the all-pow- 
erful dictator, the negroes formed a corps of zealous 
spies and adherents of Rosas, whose secret observa- 
tions were carried on in the very midst of the families 
whom he suspected. They also formed a brigade of 
excellent troops, on whose fidelity he was able to rely 
at all times. 

Don Domingo F. Sarmiento, from one of whose 
works the above anecdote is derived, is one of the 
most enlightened patriots and philosophers of South 
America. He is a native of San Juan, a town in the 
interior of the Confederation, but has travelled exten- 
sively in Europe and the United States, and was for 



46 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

many years a resident of Chili, whither he was ban- 
ished by Rosas in 1840. He has done much by his 
writings to advance a practical knowledge both of the 
principles of agriculture and of education in his native 
country, and is earnestly endeavoring to secure the 
cooperation of the government and legislature of Bu- 
enos Ayres in the advancement of those sciences. He 
desires to see some portion of the European emigration 
diverted from the United States to Buenos Ayres, the 
government of which province, indeed, offers land free- 
ly to all who will settle in the interior ; and he has re- 
cently published, among other valuable works, a treatise 
on agriculture and education, entitled "Plan combi- 
nado de Education comun, Silvicultura e Industria 
Pastoril" especially designed for the province of Buenos 
Ayres. He is also translating into Spanish the writ- 
ings of Adams, Jefferson, and others of our early states- 
men, which we may hope will enlighten the Spanish 
republics of South America on a subject that they 
seem at best to very imperfectly understand. 

A word concerning the currency of this province, 
and I will dismiss it from the reader's attention. Rosas, 
before he was driven from power, established a paper 
currency, which, being of small nominal value, was in- 
tended to supply the place of coin. These bills were 
struck off with the value of from one to several hun- 
dred pesos stamped upon them. But their value fluc- 
tuated to such an extent, that while at one time one 
Spanish dollar could purchase twertty pesos, a few 
weeks later not eight could be obtained with the same 
sum. At the present time a peso is valued at four or 
five cents of our money. 



ROSAS. 47 

It is said that the president, having put this currency 
into circulation, realized thousands of dollars from it 
by monopolizing the money market, and causing the 
paper to rise or depreciate at his pleasure. I have 
seen a four-real piece coined by him, or by order of his 
goverment (which amounted to the same thing), with 
these words stamped upon it: "Eterno Rosas" (Eternal 
Rosas). This man was, in every sense of the word, a 
tyrant — cool, calculating, and selfish ; possessed of a 
degree of cunning and penetration, that aided him in 
discovering his most secret enemies. Ruthless in the 
execution of his designs, he spared neither age nor 
sex ; even the venerable mayor, his earliest friend, his 
more than father, was murdered in cold blood by a 
party of masorgueros (men of the Masorca, or club, a 
band of butchers and assassins, on whom Rosas relied 
for the perpetuation of his reign of terror), at the bid- 
ding of their atrocious chief. 

In a work published at Montevideo, in 1845, by 
Don Jose Rivera Indarte, a native of Buenos Ayres, he 
gives the following estimate of the numbers who died 
through the hatred or caprice of Rosas : Poisoned, 4 ; 
executed with the sword, 3765 ; shot, 1393 ; assassi- 
nated, 722, — total, 5884. Add this to the numbers 
slain in battle, and those executed by military orders, 
at a moderate computation 16,520, we have 22,404 
victims. If we deduct from this — allowing some lati- 
tude for the prejudices of Senor Indarte — one third 
for exaggeration, we still have 14,936, — a fearful aggre- 
gate of victims to the ambition of a Gaucho chief. 

But his career has ended ; the exiled patriots have 
returned from Brazil and Chili, and in place of his 



48 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

there exists another, and, it is to be hoped, a better, 
government. He was at one time the absolute ruler 
of his country ; and his long and cruel reign has left an 
effect upon its inhabitants which many years of wise 
legislation alone can eradicate. 



* 



VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA ORIENTAL. 49 



CHAPTER IV. 

VISIT TO THE TIGEE AND BANDA OEIENTAL. 

PT1HE steamer in which I expected to embark for 
1 Rosario, on the Parana River, would not sail from 
Buenos Ayres for ten days or a fortnight, and I began 
to look around me for some occupation, by means of 
which I might become more acquainted with the locali- 
ties about the city. I was eager to visit the gaucho in 
his home upon the pampas ; and when a young man, 
who had just arrived from New York, invited me to 
accompany him across the Plata to the Republic of 
Uruguay, I did not wait for a second invitation, but 
accepted his offer upon the spot. 

I knew nothing more of this young man than that 
he had come to Buenos Ayres recommended to the 
first merchant of the place ; but that his purpose for 
the visit was a secret one, I did not at the time sus- 
pect. He prepared himself for the journey by simply 
providing himself with a large blanket, a revolver pis- 
tol, and a sounding-rod. The first two articles seemed 
rational enough ; but the rod, which he carried as a cane, 
required an explanation. 

We received from a countryman a letter of introduc- 
tion to Edward Hopkins, Esq., who was about to sail 
in the " Asuncion " for the north side of the river. This 
4 



50 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

gentleman was at the River Tigre, twenty-one miles 
from Buenos Ayres, and acted as agent for the United 
States and Paraguay Navigation Company. As there 
was no other way for crossing the Plata to the particu- 
lar part of the coast where my friend wished to land, 
he decided to visit the Tigre, and embark in the 
Asuncion. 

Having bargained for seats with the driver of the 
diligence that ran between Buenos Ayres and the vil- 
lage of San Fernando, near the Tigre, we set out one 
fine morning, accompanied by a native gentleman, who 
spoke English imperfectly. 

Our cocker o was a conceited fellow, and felt the dig- 
nity of office to an unnecessary degree. We had no 
little amusement during our journey with him in 
watching the phases of his character: once, when 
the cart of a milkman became entangled in the harness 
of our horses, he became so laughable in his wounded 
pride and impotent rage, that we had difficulty in re- 
straining our faces to a decently sober appearance. As 
we became disentangled, and drove on, he, in the midst 
of a volley of carrambas, denounced all cartmen who 
had the impudence to cross the track of the mail-coach. 
And such, in fact, his vehicle was ; but, as we noticed 
that the contents of the mail, instead of being confined 
in a mail-bag, or other suitable receptacle, were scat- 
tered here and there in various corners of the coach, 
some tucked beneath the cushions, and others lying 
under our feet, the opinion that we formed of the native 
postal arrangements was not of the highest. 

For nearly a league we passed over a Macadamized 
road, shaded here and there by willows that ran along 



THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 51 

the river. We soon passed the deserted quinta of 
General Rosas. The house was built upon arches, the 
materials being brick and plaster. Around it were arti- 
ficial groves, and little lakes and canals of water. 

To the right of the house, on the side nearest the 
city, were numerous little brick buildings, where the 
tyrant quartered his troops. The situation was very 
beautiful, and the surroundings altogether were inter- 
esting. 

Farther on were casas (houses) of country gentle- 
men, with orchards of peach, olive, and quince, which, 
with the foliage of many varieties of shrubs, made the 
prospect on all sides most beautiful. 

If a well-regulated estate particularly attracted our 
attention, we universally found, on inquiry, that its 
owner was a foreigner, whom the cochero dignified by 
the low word gringo, which is equivalent to "paddy" 
in our own language ; and in this estimation, I after- 
wards found, our countrymen and all strangers are 
held by the indolent and treacherous country people. 

Wheat, potatoes, onions, beans, tomatoes, &c, thrive 
wonderfully upon the farms ; and, if the whole agricul- 
tural department were in foreign hands, the country, 
with its fine climate, and rich and easily-worked 
lands, could produce almost every kind of vegetable. 
With the exception of a few English and Scotch, the 
French from the Basque provinces are the most ener- 
getic and thrifty farmers. In a few instances the Yan- 
kee plough has been used with great success, in place 
of the miserable wooden one of the natives. 

We met large covered wagons carrying produce to 
the city, and troops of mules and donkeys freighted 



52 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

with thistles, in bundles, to heat the ovens of the 
bakers ; also others with peach and willow trees, which 
had been raised for firewood, an article bringing a good 
price, on account of its scarcity. 

As we approached the Tigre and Las Conchas, we 
found that the country is undulating ; but beyond the 
line of the latter, it stretches out into the pampas as 
far as the vision can reach. 

The diligence entered San Fernando about noon; 
we found it a little town, surrounded with fruit trees 
left to the care of nature, the people being satisfied 
with her products without wasting time in laboring to 
improve them. 

Two miles distant was the River Tigre, which emp- 
ties its waters into the wide Plata ; towards the river 
we directed our steps, and we arrived in time to dine 
with Edward Hopkins, Esq., the gentleman whom we 
had come to visit. 

Mr. Hopkins, who has acted as our consul in Para- 
guay, and as agent for the United States and Paraguay 
Navigation Company, invited us aboard the little 
steamer Asuncion, which had been put together at this 
place a short time before. 

This company had been formed in the United States 
for the purpose of opening commercial intercourse with 
Paraguay, a country that had, under the dictator 
Francia, excluded foreigners. Lopez, its present ruler, 
had been on very intimate terms with our countryman, 
Mr. H. ; and, taking advantage of this intimacy, and 
the president's friendly feeling towards the United 
States, the above company was formed; and it soon 
sent out from Providence, R. I., a clipper schooner of 



THE ASUNCION. 53 

beautiful mould, containing, in pieces, a small steamer 
and " hoop boat," with their appropriate crews, carpen- 
ters, millwrights, &c. 

The schooner was damaged in the Tigre ; but her 
cargo was landed, and the Asuncion put together, 
and sent up the Parana to Paraguay. A cigar manu- 
factory, employing three hundred native girls, was set 
on foot, a colony formed, and the steamer was to run 
between that country and Buenos Ayres, when an 
event occurred that blasted the prospects of the North 
Americans. A brother of Mr. Hopkins was stopped in 
the street for some trivial cause (probably galloping 
his horse) by a vigilante, whose language was insult- 
ing, whereupon difficulty ensued. As representative 
of his government, Mr. Hopkins interfered ; and then 
followed the expulsion of our countrymen from the 
unexplored and little-known Paraguay. The United 
States steamer Water Witch, then lying in the Plata, 
ascended the river, and was fired upon from a fortifica- 
tion ; several balls lodged in her hull, and one man was 
killed. The Water Witch destroyed the structure, 
and retired down the river to Montevideo, while the 
company's men settled at the Tigre until matters could 
be adjusted. The Asuncion was then engaged for car- 
rying sheep across the Banda Oriental, the country 
on the north shores of the Plata, afterwards known on 
some maps as Uruguay. 

San Fernando, in conjunction with the Tigre, is the 
watering-place of the ton of Buenos Ayres, many of 
whom pass the summer in the village. The next day 
after our arrival was passed in pleasant conversation 
with our countryman, and during the evening a large 



54 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

party of ladies and gentlemen, sailed down the river to 
two islands covered with groves of peach trees, where 
they took mate (tea), and danced La Samba Curga, to 
the music of the guitar. I did not accompany them ; 
for, having met a young man whose desire for travel 
had caused him to leave home, we passed the night 
wandering among the willows on the banks of the 
stream, and at an early hour on the following morning 
retired to rest as the piano frog was chanting his re- 
veille. 

This was a spot where the naturalist would love to 
dwell. Above our heads sang many curious birds, and 
around us were still more curious insects. 

On the neighboring church of Las Conchas, the car- 
pentero built its oven-like nest, and parrots filled the 
air with their cries, while the mocking-bird rattled out 
his medley as in our own country. 

As strangers, we were cordially received by the na- 
tives who occupied the houses close at hand, and many 
were the mates (cups of Paraguay tea) we took, be- 
cause the pretty senoritas informed us that their lan- 
guage and mate were inseparable, and not until the 
foreigner became addicted to its use could he ride a 
horse, throw the lasso, learn the language, or win a fair 
maid. * • 

I have already alluded to the yerba, sometimes called 
yerba mate, from which the Paraguay tea is made. 

It is to South America what the tea of China is to 
Europe and the United States; nor are its qualities 
very greatly different from those of the Asiatic herb. 

The yerba trees grow in forests, called yerbales, on 
the rivers of Paraguay, and attain a considerable size. 



MATE. 55 

At the time of gathering, a party of peons are sent 
into the forest, who collect the branches, sprigs, and 
leaves in vast piles, which are afterwards thoroughly- 
scorched. This being accomplished, the leaves and 
twigs are packed in a raw hide, which contracts as it 
dries, compressing the yerba into an almost solid mass. 
In this condition it is sent to market. 

The mate is a small gourd, which forms the general 
drinking-cup in all the regions which I visited. An 
infusion of the yerba having been made, with accesso- 
ries, as in our own country, it is sucked from the mate 
through a tin or silver tube, called the bombilla, which 
is provided at its lower extremity with a strainer, 
which prevents the fine particles of the yerba from ris- 
ing to the mouth. The name of the gourd or cup is 
not unfrequently coupled with that of the tea itself in 
mentioning the article. 

At last everything was ready for our departure ; and 
at eleven o'clock one starlight night we sailed slowly 
along the little Tigre, and, passing the peach islands at 
its mouth, in an hour after, were fairly on our passage 
across the Plata, which at this point is nearly thirty 
miles wide. Upon arriving off the San Juan River, 
early the next morning, the tide was out, and the bar 
at the mouth of the stream impassable, which obliged 
us to remain stationary until afternoon, when the ris- 
ing tide permitted us to wind up the stream, and 
through luxuriant foliage, the home of the tiger-cat, 
and once the lair of the fierce jaguar, which is now, 
however, rarely met with, having been driven from his 
ancient hunting-grounds by parties of natives who had 
been exasperated by his continual depredations. Now 



56 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

the little tiger-cat and wild dogs are their tormentors ; 
and annually a tiger hunt comes off at the mouth of 
the river. 

We arrived at our destination in due time, and the 
cargo of sheep was safely landed. Preparations for the 
night had hardly been completed, when from a certain 
quarter were heard loud and prolonged sounds, so wild 
and fearful that our attention was directed towards it. 

" It is the voices of wild animals scenting the sheep- 
fold," said one of our party. The shepherd dogs on the 
borders of the stream pricked up their ears, and the 
hair stood up stiffly upon their backs as they walked 
around the sleeping flock, growling savagely. 

While we listened, the sounds grew more and more 
distinct, and shortly we were upon our feet to repel an 
attack from a pack of wild dogs. Perceiving that we 
were too strong to be molested with impunity, they 
withdrew, snapping and growling, for a short distance, 
where they continued their music for two or three 
hours, and then drew off to another estancia. 

These animals hunt in packs, and though of a cow- 
ardly nature, will, when fierce with hunger, attack man. 
The following incident, which occurred a few days 
prior to our arrival, proves this often-contested fact. 

A capataz (foreman) of an estancia (farm), while re- 
turning from a distant village to his home, met a pack 
of these dogs. The instinct of the brutes told them 
that the tired horse could not outstrip them in the long 
run. They gave chase, and soon brought the horse and 
rider to the ground The capataz had no other weapon 
than his knife, which proved ineffectual for his defence, 
and both man and horse were torn to pieces and de- 
voured. 



WILD DOGS. 57 

On the day after our arrival we saw at the estancia 
house three of these dogs, which had been taken from 
caves near the River San Juan. The largest was about 
a year old ; although he associated with the house dogs, 
he would not suffer any person to approach him, and 
exhibited all the traits of his wild brethren that sere- 
naded him almost every night. The two others were 
only a few weeks old, and were as playful as kittens. 

These wild dogs are of a slight frame, and are gen- 
erally of a brown and yellow color ; the mouths are of a 
dusky-brown, or black. Without doubt they descended 
from the domestic dogs brought into the country by 
the Spanish or Portuguese Jesuits during the period 
of the early settlement of the La Plata provinces. 

Early upon the following morning, the gauchos 
pointed out the path that led to the estancia house, and 
my friend Ned and myself set out to visit it. Larks, 
partridges, and many other birds started from the grass 
as we pursued our way on foot. All these birds were 
exceedingly tame ; and had we been in possession of a 
gun, we should have arrived at the house with a bag 
of game. 

The farm was owned by a German, who gave us a 
cordial welcome, and insisted upon our remaining to 
breakfast. 

The estate was a small one for that country, embra- 
cing but ten or twelve square miles. The owner pur- 
chased it of the last tenant, who sold for a fair price, 
but, when he received the money, declared that the 
German must pay him extra for the buildings. The 
new owner, having, as he supposed, paid for "top and 
bottom," refused to give an additional sum; but the 



58 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

native was inexorable, and the buyer, knowing that a 
foreigner receives no justice from South American tri- 
bunals, wisely settled the affair, after much loss of time 
and money, by paying the full demand. Almost every 
bargain that is consummated between a foreigner and 
a native results largely in favor of the latter party. By 
bribery, falsehood, or perjury, — he cares but little 
which, — the creole will outwit the " gringo," and then, 
in a most barefaced manner, tell him that it is by superior 
wit and talent that the end is thus brought in favor of 
a Christian; for so all true Catholics of both republics, 
the Banda Oriental and Argentine, are called, or call 
themselves, with no little egotism. 

After partaking of a nourishing meal, — farina, soup, 
and meat, — Ned strapped his bundle to his back, care- 
fully loaded his revolver, and, after several studied in- 
quiries as to certain locations along the coast of the 
Plata, bade me to prepare to follow him.. Our new 
friends offered us horses, saddles, &c. ; but Ned had a 
particular reason for travelling on foot, and so, bidding 
our German friend adieu, we posted off in a westerly 
direction. Our landmark was the mud hut of an 
estancia, about seven miles distant, situated on a swell 
of the prairie. About the estancia we were leaving 
were several high hills, which sloped off into the roll- 
ing plain. A portion of these hills were barren, and 
broken rocks cropped out at their bases ; but the plains 
or rolling ground about them, upon which the cattle 
fed, was covered with fine grass, occasionally inter- 
mixed with flowers. Just beyond the house, at the 
base of one of the hills, we descried a shepherd sitting 
upon the rocks, apparently watching his flock, that fed 



ned's stoey. 59 

upon the plain ; but a closer scrutiny proved that he 
was fast in the delights of a siesta. Puffs of wind that 
came around the hills flaunted his chiropa and poncho 
in a wild manner, which, together with his long beard, 
gave him the appearance of an old gypsy. 

" Now we are clear of all eaves-droppers," said my 
friend, "and as we go along, I will tell you what 
strange circumstances brought me here, and why I 
left a good home and profitable business to wander 
mysteriously on this side of the Plata. I am some- 
times visionary. My friends say so, and I believe it to 
be so ; but the cause that tempted me to leave a wife 
and child was not so visionary as some of my friends 
have declared, and I mean to prove to them their 
error by returning to New York, in one year's time, a 
rich man. I can prove by history that a small vessel, 
sailed by Spanish pirates, went ashore upon this coast, 
not twenty, or at the most fifty, miles from the spot 
that we are now upon. She had a large amount of 
money on board, which was taken ashore, and buried 
not far from the wreck : two or three trees mark the 
spot ; they are old now, but are probably still standing. 
If they are not standing, I have still another landmark 
to tell me where the treasure lies. 

" The first fact which I stated is supported by his- 
tory; that portion regarding the treasure is known 
only to me. The man who imparted the secret was 
an invalid for many years past, and, therefore, unable 
to come for the treasure himself. He confided it to 
me upon his death-bed, in New York city, about a 
year since. We had been intimate for years, and 
could rely on each other. Why he kept the secret 



60 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

from rae for such a length of time, I cannot surmise, 
unless it was because he hoped to recover, and come 
for it himself. He died poor, and his words to me 
were of this import : c Go to the Plata, and after com- 
ing into possession of this hidden wealth, return with 
it to New York, give to my widow three quarters, and 
keep the other fourth for yourself.' 

"I have now only to seek out certain localities; 
when these are found I shall know just where to sink 
my rod, and I am certain of success. The reason that 
I have imparted a portion of this secret to you is, that 
I must have some person to assist me in taking the 
treasure to some vessel in the outer roads of Buenos 
Ayres. As soon as we have ascertained that all is 
right, I shall despatch you to the Tigre to purchase a 
boat, and as you have been long enough on board ship 
to ' know the ropes,' you will not deem it too great a 
risk to watch for a fair wind, and navigate the craft 
across the river. We will then load up, and steer 
some fine night, with the tide in our favor, for the 
Mary H., that lies off the city. The captain will not 
be there ; but the mate is a confidential friend, and we 
will get our things on board without any trouble from 
the Custom House officers. 

" When I tell you that I have sold out a profitable . 
business, and expect to spend at least fifteen hundred 
dollars in this enterprise, you will credit me with san- 
guine hopes, and conclude that I must have strong and 
good reasons for risking myself and the support of my 
family in such a romantic undertaking." 

I had before this heard of the Rio Plata gold hunt- 
ers ; but what could I do ? Advise my friend to go 



BURIED TREASURE. 61 

home to his wife, of whom he often spoke in terms 
of strong affection, or assist him in his labors, and fol- 
low after the ignis fatuus that had lured him from 
friends and domestic pleasures ? I answered him after 
this wise. " Ned," said I, " I shall offer no opinion re- 
garding this gold hunt, nor discourage you from an 
undertaking for the success of which you confess you 
have embarrassed yourself and purse ; but I also have 
a mission to perform. I came to this country with the 
intention of crossing the pampas to Mendoza, from 
which town I mean to cross the Andes to Valparaiso, 
Chili. From the latest and best authority I have 
learned that the mountains will be impassable after 
the first week in May, and as it is now late in the 
season to insure a safe journey to Valparaiso, it will 
be necessary for me to leave Buenos Ayres in the next 
steamer, which will be ready to sail in a few days. 
Until the sailing day I will devote my time to your 
plans, but no longer." 

Though Ned spoke with enthusiasm, and promised 
the reward of one thousand dollars in case of success, 
I remained obstinate, and debate was dropped. 

As we trudged on our journey, various birds and 
animals were at times seen by us. Once two small 
deer approached us, and acted as if influenced by great 
curiosity, and again, a tall ostrich started out of the 
grass, and, raising her plumed wings, ran off at the top 
of her speed. 

Having reached the estancia house, — our landmark 
already referred to, — we halted to ask for water. The 
little that the family had was in an old barrel ; by the 
side of it was a cow's dirty horn, out of which we 



62 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

drank. We continued our journey to the next stop- 
ping-place, five miles beyond. This was a small hut 
surrounded by corrals, the whole serving as an outpost 
to a large estancia. The occuj>ants were a lazy gaucho 
and his negress wife, who invited us in, and offered 
mate ; but as our object was to find some suitable 
shelter for the night, we did not remain long, but 
pushed on towards the River Las Vacas. Darkness 
coming on, we hurried to several mud huts that loomed 
up in the distance. Upon arriving at them, we found a 
young gaucho, who led us into a room where a pow- 
erful-built, supercilious-looking personage was sitting. 
Glancing at us carelessly, he asked us several ques- 
tions ; but being ignorant of the language, we could 
only make use of the " Spanish Teacher " that my 
friend had brought with him: we could not discover 
whether he understood our requests or desires. He 
treated us in a very distant manner, calling a gaucho, 
and ordering us off to a low, mud hut, where a woman 
was cooking a strip of meat by a small fire. 

The interior of the hut was filthy in the extreme, 
the broken walls covered with vermin, and the whole 
dwelling filled with blinding smoke. Shortly after our 
entrance, several gauchos came in, and conversed to- 
gether in low tones. 

After a few minutes they approached us, who were 
seated upon a log, and addressed numerous inquiries to 
my companion. Ned, with the utmost simplicity, 
opened his " Teacher," and pointed out several sen- 
tences. The fellows at first looked at the book, and 
turned over several leaves with a puzzled air, then, 
breaking out in a loud laugh, threw it back into his 



GAITCHO INCIVILITY. 63 

lap. Soon one dark-visaged gaucho drew his knife, 
and commenced slashing it above the head of my 
companion, seeming undecided, however, to strike 
him. 

At this manifestation of mischief, our hands grasped 
our Colt's revolvers ; and if the knife had touched either 
of our bodies, we should have drawn our weapons and 
shot down our assailants. " If they strike us, shoot all 
except the old hag, who can do nothing more than 
give the alarm, and take to your heels," muttered my 
companion. 

We sat thus for half an hour, during which time the 
gauchos made several attempts to strike at our legs, 
but did not succeed. They were at length called away 
by the old woman, who offered them their supper. We 
at last asked them by signs for a bed ; they pointed to 
a pile of dried skins that lay heaped up in one corner 
of the hut. At this the indignation of my friend could 
hardly be kept within bounds. Having been accus- 
tomed to all the comforts that the great metropolis of 
our country could furnish, he determined no longer to 
suffer the inhospitable treatment of gauchos. Telling 
me to follow him, he moved towards the door of the 
shanty, which was nothing more than a large hide, 
swinging to and fro in the entrance. 

Bat the gauchos would not allow us to leave; and 
after a vain attempt at arguing the matter, we were at 
last obliged to stretch ourselves upon the hides, and 
lying side by side, kept watch in turn, with pistols 
in hand, through the long and uncomfortable night. 
When I say uncomfortable, I mean the whole strength 
of the word, for the hides were alive with vermin, and 



64 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK, 

their passage over our bodies and its attendant irrita- 
tion, half crazed us both. But the longest night has 
an end. An hour before daylight the gauchos arose 
from the ground, which had been their bed, and lasso- 
ing their horses in the corral, galloped off to different 
parts of the estancia. 

As soon as we saw that the disagreeable fellows were 
certainly gone, we arose and hurried away from the 
hut. The woman followed, and begged us to come 
back and eat meat ; but we were only too willing to 
leave without a breakfast. We learned, some days 
later, from an Englishman, that the owner of this 
estancia, whose name was Moreno, belonged to a 
family of the most villanous character. 

During the revolutions, and while the country was in 
the midst of civil war, an elder brother of this Moreno 
became a general, and perpetrated the most horrid 
deeds of cruelty. With a band of soldiers he traversed 
that portion of the country, cutting out the tongues of 
hundreds of cattle, and leaving the animals to become 
the prey of the wild beasts and birds. He visited a 
great number of estancias, and slaughtering the own- 
ers, male and female, placed in their stead his own 
submissive tools. 

At the close of the war, justice cried out against him, 
and the villain fled the country, leaving a part of his 
ill-gotten possessions in the hands of his brother. 

Four or five miles beyond Moreno's, we passed a 
white-washed casa (house) belonging to another man 
equally bad with our late host. 

We now entered a thinly-wooded country, with 
thorn trees and cacti, in which large flocks of palomas 



AN IRISH SETTLER. 65 

— a species of turtle dove resembling our own species 

— were abundant. Just before reaching the River 
Las Vacas we came upon a hut of cornstalks, out of 
which, to our surprise, walked an unmistakable son of 
Erin. He commenced at once with, " Sure, and is it 
yerselves that's afoot ? Where be your hosses ? Walk 
into the house and be seated." 

Hurrying into the house, he commenced an onslaught 
upon a lot of fowls and two or three dogs, driving them 
out : we entered with him. He was a perfect specimen 
of the " Irish-born citizen." He had originally come 
to the country as cook to an English bark. He had 
much to say about the travels and dangers that he 
had gone through. Speaking of the conduct of Great 
Britain in meddling with the affairs of the Banda Ori- 
ental, he expressed his dissatisfaction in the most for- 
cible language. 

"The English and Frinch intervinshun," said he, 
"kilt me, as it did all the furriners. Before it I owned 
two thousand head of cattle and hosses, and had 
plinty of land, and was comfortable. I had a wife, 
though I didn't have time to get married to the cra- 
thur; and lucky was I that I hadn't, for she run 
off wid me money and half of me property. I hears 
that the Turks are fighting the queen, and are like to 
succeed. God bless them if they do. I hope she may 
be taken." 

We left him as soon as possible, and pushed on to 
the River Las Vacas, which we soon reached, and 
crossed in a boat. We remained two days in the lit- 
tle town on its banks, during which time Ned made 
many inquiries for certain localities, but without suc- 
5 



66 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

cess. Finding that nothing could be learned here, we 
hired horses, and set out on our return to the San 
Juan River, following along the coast of the Plata. 
Every few minutes would Ned halt and repeat the 
three Spanish words that he had studied for many 
weeks, and could now pronounce correctly. Turning 
to our guide, an old lame gaucho, he would say, half 
inquiringly, " Los Tres Hermanos f " but at each time 
the old man shook his head. 

At last we came upon a high bluff, and the gaucho, 
halting, pointed with his finger to two small islands, 
green with heavy foliage that fringed their shores, and 
exclaimed, "Los Dos Hermanos ! " But those were not 
the islands that Ned was seeking. " Los Dos Herma- 
nos" or " The Two Brothers," were islands of greater 
size than those which my friend sought. 

" Los Tres Hermanos" or " The Three Brothers," 
had been described to him by the dying man as " three 
small pointed rocks ; " but Ned could not find these. 
He had consulted every chart that he could procure, 
but not one had the three rocks upon it. Could it be 
that " The Two Brothers " had been confounded with 
some other islets ? 

But I will not dwell upon our unsuccessful search. 
Suffice it to say that we both returned to the Tigre in 
the same steamer that had brought us across the Plata. 
I left Ned busily at work upon a small boat, in which, 
when finished, he intended to cross the river, and, dis- 
guised as a roving naturalist, to skirt along the river 
coast in search of " Los Tres Hermanos" When I part- 
ed from him, he said, gayly, " Good by, my friend. You 
have yet to travel a long road before you reach North 
America. I shall be there some months before you." 



ned's unfobtunate speculation. 67 

After returning to the United States, I wrote to 
New York, as he had requested ; but some time elapsed 
before an answer came, and then my worst fears were 
realized. Disappointed in his search for gold, he had 
accepted the first offer for employment that presented 
itself, and had become the mate of the little steamer 
that carried us across the river when he filst embarked 
in his romantic speculation. 

During the passage of the steamer to the upper 
Parana, he fell overboard one night, and was carried 
into the rapids of the river and drowned. 



68 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER V. 
ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PARANA. 

FROM the River Tigre I proceeded on foot to 
Buenos Ayres. When within a league or two 
of the city, I passed a fine quinta inhabited by a 
Scotchman, who had resided several years in the 
republic. Two Irishmen, mounted high upon a cart, 
were driving through the gate, and one of them, after 
scrutinizing my appearance, shouted to me, " Sure 
you're an Irishman — are ye not?" 

I answered that I was a North American, and be- 
longed in Boston ; when the other man inquired if I 
happened to be acquainted with a family by the name 
of Kelley, adding that the head of said family was a 
half brother to his wife. 

I tried to show my questioner that Boston was a 
large place, with inhabitants so numerous that I had 
not yet had the pleasure of the acquaintance of his 
relatives; and, after giving the latest news of the 
great metropolis, and what was transpiring when I 
left" it, I parted from the cartmen and pursued my 
journey, philosophizing on the wonderful race of the 
Irish, and the fact that, no matter what corner of the 
globe we may be in, we are certain to find this people 
represented, sometimes by a great many individuals. 



the "doctor's" experience. 69 

When I reached the city of Buenos Ayres, I learned 
that the boat was to leave on the next morning ; and, 
to prevent detention, the consul gave me a note ad- 
dressed to the captain of the port, who at once fur- 
nished me with a passport. Persons about .leaving the 
province are required to advertise their intended de- 
parture during three successive days in one of the 
three or four daily papers that are published in its 
principal city. This regulation is designed to prevent 
the departure of debtors for other " parts unknown," 
without settling their accounts ; but the law is no less 
ineffectual than inconvenient, as it has been found 
utterly impotent to accomplish the object for which 
it was designed. Before sailing, I visited the bark, 
to bid adieu to the rough but honest hearts that had 
been my associates during our long passage from Bos- 
ton. I was received with joyful demonstrations. I 
divided the contents of my trunk among the sailors, 
and, after a pleasant chat with the mate, was about to 
leave the vessel, when the " distinguished Irish barris- 
ter's son," our cook, hinted that he had a word for my 
private ear, I followed him to the galley ; closing the 
doors, to keep out intruders, he offered me a seat, and 
began the following conversation: "My dear friend, 
do you ever partake of that which makes men's sinews 
as strong as iron bands? If so, here is the bottle just 
smuggled aboard by the c patron ' who brought you 
from the city. No ! you won't dhrink ? I'm less bash- 
ful. Here's to a short parting, and may you not yield 
your heart, as I once did mine, to any seiiorita on your 
journey." Here he took a good pull at the bottle, and 
continued: "What shall I do without you? I'm puz- 



70 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

zled to know, with no kindred intellect on board to 
cheer me on the homeward passage. However, I have 
long intended to prepare a work on the 'Irish Karak- 
ter in America,' that will occupy my mind, and make 
the time pass less tediously. It will make at laste five 
volumes, and I'm keeping a 'dialogue' (diary) for notes 
every day." After he had enlarged on, and explained 
the character of, his embryo book, I turned the subject 
by remarking that it seemed strange that a man of his 
poetic nature had never been entangled in the bonds 
of love. "Ah, now! ye've said it," exclaimed the 
"doctor." "I have passed through that experience; 
but the cratur, woman, has been no blessing, as the 
poets say, but a perfect bane, to my poor heart. It 
was woman who drove me from my position in society 
to this galley." Here the cook was obliged to draw a 
pull of comfort from the bottle. " "When I was only 
sixteen years of age," he continued, with a sigh, — 
whether of love or in consequence of the strength of 
the liquor I was uncertain, — "my father had a frind, 
who was also an Irish barrister; this gintleman had a 
daughter like an angel. I was young and beardless, 
she a few years older than meself. I became so deeply 
enamoured that I offered her me hand and me hat 
(heart) ; at which she softly replied, ' Mr. W., you are 
too young.' I, however, pressed me suit, for women 
want a deal of coaxing ; but she only smiled. At last, 
when I grew quite urgent, — for an Irishman coorts in 
earnest, — she referred me for an answer to the second 
of Samuel, tinth chapter, and the last part of the fifth 
verse. I turned at once to it, for I thought that by it 
she meant to accept me suit, and in a bashful way told 



A FAREWELL. THE URUGUAY. 71- 

me as she did ; when what was my horror and shame 
to read the following words : c Tarry at Jericho until 
your beard be grown, and then return. 5 

"Would you believe it, my friend? — this little inci- 
dent became known to my acquaintances, and for shame 
I was forced to leave the country; and for eleven years 
I never saw ould Ireland again." I thought that, con- 
sidering his beardless condition, the. Irish girl's answer 
was quite Pat to the occasion. The rum was now 
deeply affecting my friend's intellect; and just as he 
was about to recite a " stanza," I rose to leave, saying 
that I could protract my stay no longer. Embracing 
me affectionately, and repeating the lines about " tarry- 
ing in Jericho until your beard be grown," he bade me 
adieu ; and the last I heard of him was his singing at 
the top of his voice, " O, whiskey ! whiskey is the life 
of man ! O, whiskey for me, Johnny ! " Bidding fare- 
well to the rest of the crew, and refusing some pieces 
of silver which old Manuel insisted upon forcing into 
my pockets as fast as I could take them out, I went 
over the rail, and with the " patron " pushed off from 
the vessel towards the city. 

About noon on the following day, the Uruguay, in 
which I had taken passage, weighed anchor, and com- 
menced the ascent of the river against a strong cur- 
rent which made the old boat tremble from stem to 
stern. The passengers on board were a motley crowd 
— merchants, soldiers, gauchos, and emigrants of every 
size and color. One hundred men, women, and chil- 
dren from the Basque provinces were on their way to 
Paraguay. Two hundred more were soon to follow in 
another party, they having already arrived at Buenos 



72 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

Ay res. This immigration was the commencement of a 
plan of President Lopez, who was encouraging French 
immigrants to come, rightly believing that they would 
benefit his little republic. Among the Basques whom 
I saw was the wife of Montez, the president's inter- 
preter, on her return from a European tour. This lady, 
who acted as matron for her countrywomen, spoke 
seven languages fluently. She was enthusiastic regard- 
ing the prospects of the new colony. 

Late in the afternoon we passed the islands of Mar- 
tin Garcias and Los Dos Uermanos^ and entered the 
beautiful Parana, whose current is more gentle than 
that of the Plata. The country by the river is flat, 
until we near Rosario, where the banks come clown to 
the water's edge in the form of sand hills. The under- 
growth w 7 as thick in a few spots, which served, a few 
years since, as hiding-places to the dreaded jaguar, an 
animal which is, however, now seldom met with south 
of Santa Fe. 

At noon on the 30th of March we dropped anchor 
before the town of El Rosario (the Rosary), having 
been forty-eight hours in the trip. I w r as paddled 
ashore from the steamboat by a native in a log canoe, 
and succeeded in landing with dry feet. Luckily meet- 
ing an Englishman, I w T as directed by him to the house 
of Mr. G., to whom I had letters of introduction; 
and from him and his amiable wife, a native of the 
country, I received every attention that even a long 
acquaintance would have warranted. 

Rosario, situated in latitude 23° 56' south, longitude 
60° 32' west, is about three hundred feet above the 
level of the sea. The town contains seven or eight 



ROSARIO. 73 

thousand inhabitants, the greatest portion of whom 
have sprung from the Spanish and Indian stock; while 
the amalgamation of races has introduced a great vari- 
ety of shades of complexion, as well as of character, 
among the population. The streets, like those of Bue- 
nos Ayres, intersect each other at right angles. The 
sidewalks are paved with a coarse-grained brick, about 
fourteen inches long by six broad, and a little more 
than an inch in thickness. 

Rosario has one church and two schools, of which 
one is a private seminary, and the other supported by 
a public fund. There is also in process of erection a 
small hospital, to contain two wards, one for male and 
one for female patients. It was nearly finished at the 
time of my visit, and would soon be ready to receive 
the poor invalids of the vicinity. This hospital was 
erected, without assistance from the authorities, by 
means of a subscription raised among the wealthy 
citizens. The people of Rosario, unlike the inhabit- 
ants of most Spanish- American towns, appear to take 
great pride in the advancement of the place, which is 
beginning to rival Santa Fe, a large town to the north- 
ward, which formerly monopolized the interior trade; 
but of late years, in consequence of the energy of its 
merchants and its proximity to Buenos Ayres, Rosario 
has diverted a large portion of the business from Santa 
Fe to herself, and continues to encourage it by propos- 
ing to build a bridge seventy yards in length across a 
river that lies between Cordova and Parana. If this 
enterprise is not abandoned, it will attract to Rosario 
many caravans which are accustomed to trade higher 
up the river. The Sabbath prior to my departure had 



74 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

been appointed for a meeting of the citizens to act 
regarding this matter. 

A new line of diligences had been running for three 
months between Rosario and Mendoza; they left month- 
ly, while another line ran more frequently to Cordova, 
a town in the interior. 

Rosario supports a printing-office and a semi-weekly 
newspaper, that promises soon to be issued daily. 
Sloops, schooners, and small brigs are constantly arriv- 
ing and departing; and with all these facilities for 
business and travel, Rosario, in its present growing 
condition, will shortly prove the most important town 
of the Parana. 

The police force is organized in the usual South 
American manner, and consists of a few mounted vigi- 
lantes armed with swords, and dressed in peaked cloth 
caps, long red ponchos, and pantaloons, underneath 
which the frills of the calgoncillas (gaucho drawers) 
may be seen. 

Like physicians, they are allowed to gallop their 
horses in the streets, while all others are prohibited, 
under penalty of a fine of one dollar, from doing so. 
Vigilantes, when sent to arrest a person, are usually 
accompanied by a higher officer, as they are an igno- 
rant body of men, and frequently not of the strictest 
integrity. 

Although Rosario is the seaport, or commercial 
town, Parana is the present capital of the Argentine 
Confederation. A national bank had, not long before 
my arrival, been established by the confederacy, of 
which the headquarters were fixed at Parana, with 
branches in the provinces ; but before it had been six 



PARANA. 75 

months in operation, the whole affair exploded, as the 
confederate states, unlike Buenos Ayres, have little or 
no revenue. The government had also appropriated 
sums towards building a railroad from Cordova to 
Mendoza or Capiapo. Mr. Allen Campbell, a well- 
known North American engineer, was engaged to 
superintend the construction of the road; but, in 
view of the poverty of the country, the dangers aris- 
ing from civil wars, the paucity of emigration to the 
interior, and the universal indolence of the natives, it 
is hardly possible to predict for this undertaking any 
remarkable success for many years to come. 



76 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER VI. 

A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY. 

WHILE awaiting the expected departure of the 
carts for Mendoza, I remained with my kind 
host and his amiable wife, the G.'s. During the in- 
terim, I occupied myself in becoming acquainted with 
the habits of the people. One morning, after I had 
been in Rosario for several days, a North American — as 
we from the United States are called — drove into my 
host's patio, and announced that he had " come to see 
the young chap from the north." I introduced my- 
self as the person in question, when he cordially grasped 
both my hands, and said that he was glad to meet an 
old friend again ; he regarded all from his own country 
as such. He informed me that he lived out on Don 
B.'s estancia, and, having heard that a countryman 
was in town, he improved the first opportunity of vis- 
iting him. Of course he had many inquiries to make 
concerning news from home, which I answered as well 
as I could, and soon we were friends. 

This man's career had been somewhat remarkable. 
A sailor first, then variously employed, and now a 
" breaker in " of wild colts and mules, he possessed the 
faculty of adapting himself to all circumstances peculiar 
to the trtie North American. His experiences had 



DON DANIEL. li 

been varied, and he well illustrated in his career the truth 
of the old adage, " A rolling stone gathers no moss." 
He was thoroughly conversant with all the peculiarities 
of parnpa life ; had observed well the habits, of the birds 
and animals that live on the plains ; was an adept in 
throwing the lasso, and mastering wild colts and horses. 

"You are here after information, I guess?" interro- 
gated my new friend. " If so, come with me for a few 
days, and I will show you how to be a gaucho. My 
shoulders are lame with being tossed in the saddle 
while breaking colts; but the job is through with for a 
while, and I'd just like to show you about." 

"But you have only one horse," I replied. " Where 
can I find another ? " 

" Never mind," responded Don Daniel, as my friend 
styled himself. " Jest you mount him ; I can get an- 
other : I've lots of friends around the river, and any 
one will find me a hoss : if it comes to the wust (worst), 
I c&njind one myself." 

An extra blanket was furnished me from the house, 
and I placed myself at the disposal of Don Daniel. 

The little iron-gray stallion that was to carry me 
into a strange land pawed and curvetted, and seemed 
anxious to be off. The alforjas, or saddle-bags, had 
been well filled by my lovely hostess. Don Daniel's 
chifles, or water-vessels, consisted of two cow's horns, 
one of which he filled with water for his new a?nigo, 
Don Yankee ; the other he filled at a store with aguar- 
diente for himself. 

" Don Yankee," said he, as he busied himself about 
this important matter, " you have come from Boston, 
the home of temperance doctrines : stick to your colors, 



78 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

and don't mistake this horn" — pointing to the one 
filled with liquor — -"for the one filled with water, as 
there will not be more than enough for myself. I take 
it for my lame shoulders by an internal application." 

" Ejo mio, actios" (Grod be with you, my son) ! ex- 
claimed the kind-hearted sefiora. "Don't fall into a 
biscacha hole," warned her husband ; and we were off. 

Don Daniel bestrode a good-looking horse, that he had 
contrived to find somewhere. " Hurry ! " said he, clap- 
ping spurs to his animal, as we turned a corner. "If that 
lazy porteno sees us, there will be no hoss for Don Daniel." 

Although we were moving at quite a rapid pace, I 
remonstrated with my companion against his using 
other people's horses without their consent. 

He only laughed, and said, " Poh ! you are green, my 
boy. It is the custom here. When the porteno needs 
his hoss, he'll take a friend's animal, as I have done. 
We are all ' friends in this country ; and I'll send his 
hoss back before a week is out. Now, caro mio, push 
yourself just a leetle for'ard, — so, — that's it ; don't ride 
like a pole, — so, — so : here comes a breeze ; isn't this 
jolly? Now I feel that pain in my shoulder: a leetle 
rum won't hurt it ; you can try the water-cure." 

And on we galloped over the smooth, grassy plains, 
while the sun, resembling a huge red shield, sank be- 
fore us into the grass. 

The next day's travel brought us to the very heart 
of the gaucho dominion. As far as the vision extend- 
ed, and still farther beyond, a level plain, covered with 
grass, spread out, on which vast herds of cattle, the 
wealth of the herdsmen, were feeding. On we rode, 
our horses devouring space with almost untiring speed. 



PAMPA CATTLE. 79 

Thus far during our day's ride we had not met with a sin- 
gle human being. Nothing possessing life, except cattle 
and horses, had we seen. But at length we fell in with a 
large herd ; and attending them were two gauchos, sit- 
ting on the ground, engrossed in a game of cards, their 
horses standing beside them. As we approached, they 
respectfully touched their hats, and wished us 2i u buenos 
dias" (good day). We inquired of them the name of 
the owner of the neighboring herds, when they replied 
that we were upon the estancia of Don Carlos B., 
in whose service they were employed as peons. We 
again put our horses to the gallop, and sped on over 
the smooth turf. All day the same speed was kept up ; 
for our animals were true pampa steeds, and scorned a 
trot. Having traversed many miles, we met with an- 
other herd of cattle, which, instead of moving from us, 
as did the droves which we passed in the morning, 
seemed differently minded. Two or three old bulls 
left their several companies, and approached the spot 
where we drew up our horses. The old fellows seemed 
very courageous, lowering their heads, and shaking 
their long, shaggy locks, as if determined to contest our 
passage, or protect their weaker companions, who were 
closely huddled behind those pampa kings. We dis- 
mounted, and, leaving our horses, advanced towards 
the bulls. But the moment we touched the ground the 
animals assumed another character: as we advanced on 
foot towards them, they bellowed loudly, and, turning, 
with their heads down and tails up, scampered off as 
fast as fear could impel them, the ground trembling 
under the tread of thousands of heavy hoofs. 

Daniel laughingly explained, while we were mount- 



80 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ing our horses, that, in those distant parts, cattle know 
man only when he is mounted upon horseback, and 
that a gaucho on foot is so rarely beheld that he is al- 
ways mistaken for some unknown beast of prey. 

As night came on, we dismounted, and, taking 
off the recardO) or country saddle, spread it upon the 
grass for a bed ; we then hobbled our horses, and, after 
making a meal off a strip of roasted beef, lay down to 
a night's welcome sleep. 

At dawn we were again in motion, and, after gallop- 
ing a mile or two, met a solitary gaucho, who was 
chasing a herd of cattle. On our calling to him, he in- 
stantly wheeled his horse, and, on inquiry, informed us 
— for your gaucho is a polite fellow — that we were 
upon the estancia of Don Carlos B. 

" Don Carlos ! " we exclaimed. " Why, we were upon 
his estate yesterday, and have galloped many miles 
since then. Can it be that his estancia is so large ? " 
. "Yes," answered the gaucho. "Don Carlos is the 
largest estanciero within three hundred miles." 

" How large is his farm, then ? " I asked. 

The gaucho confessed that he was ignorant, and 
neither did his master know; for many years before a 
pampero, or hurricane, carried away the boundary 
stakes.* And even his estate is small beside that of 
Candioti-, the once great pampa lord, who possessed 
upwards of two hundred square leagues of territory, and 
was owner of nearly a million head of cattle, besides 

* General Rosas, late president of the Argentine Republic, 
owned an estancia, south of Buenos Ayres, that contained sev- 
enty-four square leagues. — Darwin's Voyage. 



DON CARLOS. 81 

hundreds of thousands of horses and mules. Candioti 
lived in Santa Fe, and once had not a real of his own ; 
but before he died he sent annually to Peru many thou- 
sands of mules, and a hundred heavily-laden wagons of 
merchandise. Since his death, his estate has been di- 
vided among his large family of illegitimate children. 

As we continued to draw the gaucho out, he warmed 
up with his subject, and enthusiastically praised his 
master, Don Carlos. He dwelt with especial pride upon 
his great prowess ; told us how he twice inflicted deep 
wounds upon the body of Don Vicente Moreno, the 
famous fighter, on the last feast day. He informed us 
that his great man, " Don Carlos, can catch a shaven 
and greased pig by the tail, and shoulder it; can ride 
the wildest bull upon the pampas, until, worn down by 
fatigue, it allows the don to lead it to the corral." In 
fine, so many and varied were this gentleman's accom- 
plishments, that we wondered that we had not heard 
of him before. 

From what we heard of Don Carlos, we imagined 
him to be a mighty personage ; or at least I did, and 
Don Daniel pretended to, and believed his dwelling to 
be almost a palace, judging by his immense wealth, of 
which we had had abundant proofs in our long ride. 
Seeing that we were struck with the gaucho's enthusi- 
asm, he offered to lead us to the presence of his mas- 
ter, which offer we accepted. Galloping across the 
pampa, we at last discovered a small object, like a speck 
in the distance, which the herdsman pronounced to be 
the residence of his master. 

As we drew near the house, my previous fine notions 
received a severe shock; for, instead of an elegant man- 
6 



82 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

sion, with verandas and towers, we found a hut of 
stakes, cornstalks, and mud. Two or three holes 
knocked through its sides served as windows and ven- 
tilators. A few peach-trees grew behind the building ; 
but they were not planted to supply the family with 
fruit, but served for fuel for the estanciero ; for no trees 
grow on these plains save those planted for firewood. 

Don Carlos came out of his mansion; for the barking 
of no less than twenty dogs had heralded our approach, 
long before we reached the door. Dismounting from, 
our horses, we repeated a solemn Ave Maria, to which 
the don made some appropriate reply, and then invited 
us within doors, and introduced us to a dark-complex- 
ioned woman, whom he called Dona Maria, his wife. 

Mate yerba, the South American tea, was brought 
out, and served by the lady herself, who, in preparing 
it, reclined on the ground in a position far from grace- 
ful. A kettle, one or two tawdry North American 
chairs, and an old table, seemed to form the only furni- 
ture of the household. Our attention was attracted by 
several crania of oxen that lay scattered about the hut, 
and, thinking that they might have been kept as relics 
of departed favorites, I asked no questions; but I 
learned afterwards that the skulls were pampa chairs, 
and were used as such by the natives. 

The don was a small, dark-complexioned man, with 
black, restless eyes, that were constantly scanning sur- 
rounding objects. His father was a Spaniard, his 
mother an Indian woman. Although he was forty 
years old, he had visited the capital but half a dozen 
times. When he was absent, he said, his mind wan- 
dered back to his estancia, and he was not satisfied 



PAMPA LIFE. 83 

until he was again among his herds. Though hospita- 
ble in his manner, he was a misanthrope, and placed 
but little confidence in mankind. 

When we informed our entertainers that we had 
come from North America, we were beset with numer- 
ous questions. " Where is North America ? " " Can 
a man travel there on horseback in two months?" 
"Is it situated in England or France?" "Is your 
moon like ours ? " " What food do your people eat ? " 
and such other queries were made. 

We found that the don's family was composed of 
several sons and one or two daughters; but no two 
of the children were of the same complexion. I won- 
dered at this, as I was ignorant of the fact that our 
host was a polygamist ; and though Dona Maria acted 
as his present wife, and as mother to children not her 
own, she never murmured, for her husband was her 
lord and master. 

All these sons were treated alike, and lived together 
in perfect contentment, while some of the degraded 
beings who bore them acted as cooks and servants to 
the household. A little corn was boiled and eaten 
with meat, without salt ; and after reverently crossing 
themselves before the crucifix, which occupied a cor- 
ner, the family betook themselves to their saddle-cloths 
— for it was now night — to rest. 

The morning dawned beautifully upon us. As 
the heavy mist rolled off the pampas, we beheld the 
gauchos departing in various directions to their respec- 
tive herds, for it was their duty to prevent the animals 
from straying off the estancia; and though thousands 
upon thousands of carttle bear upon their hides the 



84 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

brand of the proprietor, it is rarely that one is lost. 
Each gaucho can recognize every animal that belongs 
to his particular herd, let the number be hundreds. 

The gauchos returned to breakfast at about eleven 
o'clock, and while they were, eating their beef and 
taking mate^ I took a walk into the vicinity of our 
host's dwelling. Close at hand were two or three 
large staked enclosures called corrals, into which the 
horses used by the family were driven nightly for con- 
venience' sake. At the time of my visit, all the ani- 
mals ave one had been turned out to graze ; this one 
remained, as is customary, tied to a stake throughout 
the day, to be in readiness for any emergency. The 
poor fellow stands all day without eating a mouthful 
of food. He could not eat grain, having learned to 
eat nothing but grass; and as hay was an unknown 
luxury on the pampa, he was obliged to wait until 
night came for his food. 

As I wandered about the place, my attention was 
drawn to the little parties of animals grazing around 
me. The oxen were very large, and would compare 
most favorably with the finest in North America. The 
cows so resembled the oxen in roughness of form and 
size of limb, that I at once pronounced them inferior 
to our own in beauty. Out of thousands of cows upon 
the estancict) only three were milked, and these but 
once a day. These cows, more civilized than their 
relatives upon the plains, yield only five or six quarts 
of milk daily, and I wondered at their barrenness, but 
was afterwards informed by the estanciero that they 
gave him all the milk he wanted for cheese, and, there- 
fore, he need not care to improve the stock. 



HORSES OF THE PAMPAS. 85 

The size of the horses I noticed to be, on the aver- 
age, smaller than that of our own animals, though 
there were many noble specimens, both of size and 
beauty, feeding on the plains. These large horses are 
generally selected to sell to Chilians; for the people 
of Chili prefer large animals, and even trot their horses 
in some of the cities. 

The pampa horses never feel the brush or comb; 
their coats are rough, and, instead of heavy manes and 
flowing tails, they can boast of little in either. In one 
thing they can claim superiority over our own most 
valuable animals: a pampa horse can gallop a whole 
day with a man upon its back, and can endure priva- 
tions that would soon kill our stable-reared pets. 

When I returned to the hut, I informed our host 
that in my country animals are habitually kept housed, 
in better buildings, in many instances, than his own 
residence; and, moreover, in place of allowing them 
to dwindle to mere skeletons, by living upon dead 
grass in the winter time, as many of his horses did, 
they are fed upon an article called hay, — prepared 
grass, — and grow fat and sleek on grain. 

" What ! " exclaimed Don Carlos, " horses in houses ! 
Who ever heard of such a thing ? " And the look he 
gave implied that his private opinion was that North 
Americans are greater fools than he took them to be. 

It was useless to argue the great value of our horses 
in comparison with his ; he could not believe that a 
horse ever was worth two hundred dollars ; he had 
thirty thousand, which he valued at four dollars each, 
and forty thousand horned cattle, that he estimated at 
eight dollars per head. 



86 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

1 would here remark that the same kind of cattle 
could have been bought ten years since for half the 
price he estimated his worth ; but now the herdsman 
had discovered that by slaughtering animals for their 
hides thousands have been wasted, and now the de- 
mand far exceeds the supply, and the price of raw 
hides can never be cheaper than it is at present. 

Don Carlos, unlike the farmers of the Banda Orien- 
tal, did not believe in sheep grazing; therefore he 
never permitted his flocks to increase beyond fifteen 
thousand. An offer of fifty cents a head would have 
been immediately accepted, and when he received the 
money, he would have placed it in a goat-skin, with 
others of his treasures, and buried it in the ground. 

I had noticed in one of the corrals some curious 
cattle, of a breed unknown to me ; on inquiry I 
learned that they were of the Niata breed, which 
originated among the Indians of the southern pam- 
pas, and was once more numerous than the kind now 
common. This breed is seldom met with at present, 
and Don Carlos had secured these in his corral by 
order of a foreigner in Buenos Ayres, who intended 
sending them to Paris. These animals have low, 
heavy foreheads, the lower part being recurved. The 
teeth project from the mouth, the lips being short and 
incapable of being closed; in fact, they bear resem- 
blance to pug-nosed dogs. This has the effect of giv- 
ing them a fierce and terrible look. Our host remem- 
bered the time when a severe drought prevented the 
usual growth of grass, and dried it up ; but while 
other cattle lived through the season, many of the 
Niata breed were found dead upon the plains, be- 



OSTRICHES AND THEIR HABITS. 87 

cause, on account of the peculiar formation of their 
jaws and lips, they could not lay hold of the grass. 

Each of the estancierd's daughters had a pet ostrich, 
the two being representatives of both of the South 
American species. One of these was about as tall as 
an average-sized man, the other of the two species 
about two thirds as tall. The first-mentioned one was 
caught when young within two miles of the house, 
and its species is quite common on the pampas; the 
smaller variety, known to the gauchos as the Avestruz 
teteze, was brought from Patagonia, south of the River 
Negro, by one of General Rosas's old soldiers. Neither 
of these varieties can compare with the great African 
bird, their feathers being destitute of that beauty and 
delicacy which has made the last-named bird famous 
in all countries. In fact, the South American ostriches 
are properly cassowaries, a three-toed species; the 
African has but two toes, and is, besides, nearly twice 
the size of the others. 

As there have been many conflicting and incorrect 
accounts published concerning these birds, I will here 
give the most interesting, and I believe correct, infor- 
mation that I have been able to gather. 

The male bird prepares the nest, and is obliged 
sometimes to gather the eggs into it, the female often 
being careless as to where she deposits them. I have 
been told that the male will attack man if the nest is 
disturbed, leaping up and attempting to strike him with 
his feet. 

When pursued, the ostrich readily takes to the water, 
swimming slowly but fearlessly ; it has been observed 
migrating from island to island, swimming apparently 
without great effort. 



88 A THOUSAND MILES WALK. 

The food of these birds consists of grasses, various 
roots, and the sweet pod of the algaroba tree, with 
which they swallow stones, shells, and other hard sub- 
stances, to assist in digestion. 

In the spring months — in south latitude, Septem- 
ber, October, and November — the male selects his 
wives, from three to eight in number, and assumes 
full control of their movements, fighting off any bach- 
elor bird that may attempt to carry on a flirtation with 
any of his family. Some gauchos assert that the whole 
family of hens deposit their eggs in one nest or its 
vicinity. In such cases the eggs number from eighteen 
to fifty. It would seem that so large a number it would 
be difficult to cover; but ostrich eggs seem to suffer 
but little by neglect during incubation. 

A gentleman who travelled as far south as the Rio 
Negro states that some eggs are allowed to remain 
outside the nest, and these are broken by the parent, 
when the young in the others are hatched, to attract 
the flies upon which the chicks feed during the first 
few days of their lives. 

Fleet of foot, possessed of great endurance, the os- 
trich is captured only by the continued efforts of sev- 
eral horsemen, who either drive it in circles or give it 
direct chase, each horse when tired being relieved by 
a fresh animal and rider. 

When the bird has become so exhausted that it can 
be approached within forty or fifty yards, the bolidores 
— three balls attached to cords of equal lengths, which 
are fastened to one thong — are whirled around above 
the head of the gaucho, until they have attained a 
proper impetus, and launched at the bird, whose legs 
become entangled, and he falls an easy prey. 



TAMING WILD COLTS. 89 

The male bird is easily distinguished from the female 
by his larger head, and the darker color of his plumage. 
The gauchos sometimes kill them for food, eating the 
wings and feet only. 

I had heard of the method by which wild colts are 
rendered submissive, and requested Don Carlos to per- 
mit me to witness the operation. The gauchos had 
finished their meal, and as they were about to depart 
for the pampas, we saddled our horses, and, mounting, 
were ready to accompany them. On the fellows gal- 
loped like the wind, swinging the ends of their bridles 
over their heads, and shouting boisterously to each 
other. Three miles were quickly passed over, and we 
drew up before a herd of several hundred animals, 
nearly all of which were mothers with their foals. A 
beautiful young mare attracted my attention, and I 
must confess I wished to possess her. I desired the 
don to select her for the one to undergo the breaking- 
in process. I saw at once that I had made a fauxpas, 
for all the gauchos burst into a loud laugh, and de- 
clared that " North Americans must be queer people. 
Who ever heard of training a mare to the saddle ? " 
" Why ! " exclaimed another, with a contemptuous curl 
of his lip, "do you work mares in your country? Why, 
man, I would as soon think of putting a saddle upon 
my poor old mother's back, and forcing a bridle into 
her mouth, as of breaking in a mare! The people 
of North America are savages ! " 

Mares are respected in the country of the herds- 
man, and it is considered an ungrateful and indecent 
act to require labor of the mothers of horses. 

Seeing that, through ignorance, I had lowered my- 



90 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

self in the opinion of the pampa lord and his follow- 
ers, I concluded to hold my peace in future, and await 
events without trying to shape them. At last Don 
Carlos selected a fine young horse, and pointed it out 
to one of his men as a fit subject for his skill. 

The gaucho loosened the lasso from behind him, and 
made the running noose, which is held in one hand, 
while in the other are grasped several coils ready to 
run out at the proper moment. The victim was sep- 
arated from the drove, and the horse bestrode by the 
gaucho started after it with the rapidity of the wind. 
The fugitive strained every nerve to distance his pur- 
suer ; but as a trained horse, if mounted by a herds- 
man, can generally overtake a free one, however fleet 
he may be, the lasso soon left the gaucho's hand, his 
horse wheeled, and braced his feet for a shock which 
in an instant occurred, the noose settling over the head 
of the victim, and checking him in his flight so sud- 
denly that he fell in a somerset upon his back. 

At first the colt was stunned by the fall; but, re- 
covering, he aldose to his feet, and began pulling upon 
the lasso until his eyes seemed as if about to start from 
their sockets. A second gaucho now galloped to the 
assistance of his friend, and, skilfully throwing his lasso 
around the hind legs of the victim, started away in 
another direction, by which movement the colt was 
thrown to the ground, and his hind legs stretched out 
to their full length. The feet were now tied together 
with a strip of hide, the lassoes were removed, and the 
poor animal was helpless on the ground, and panting 
with fear. 

But the real work of breaking him in was yet to be 



TAMING WILD COLTS. 91 

done. A saddle was placed upon his back, and a piece 
of lasso thrust into his mouth to serve as a bridle ; the 
bonds on his feet were then loosened enough to permit 
him to rise to his feet, and two men held him by the 
ears, while his eyes were being covered with a poncho. 
The question, "Who is to ride him?" was hardly asked 
before each gaucho asserted bis right to a seat upon 
his back. 

The youngest son of the estanciero was selected to 
prove his horsemanship to the North Americans. He 
jumped into the saddle with a determination to con- 
quer, and shouting, "Let go!" drove his sharp iron 
spurs into the animal's flanks. The colt did not move 
a muscle, but seemed overwhelmed with astonishment 
and fear. 

Another application of the spurs seemed to recall 
him to his senses. He backed slowly, and then plunged 
forward with astonishing force, rose upon his hind legs, 
and then fell to the ground, turning and twisting his 
body in every conceivable contortion, but to no pur- 
pose ; his future master was upon him, and it was use- 
less attempting to unseat him. The beast now attempt- 
ed a new course ; he dashed forward in a gallop across 
the plains, moving with a speed that only fear and rage 
could give him. We followed as fast as our horses 
could travel ; but he distanced us, until, stopping sud- 
denly, he plunged, reared, kicked, and pranced in his 
efforts to unseat his rider ; but at every movement, the 
steel spurs of the gaucho stung him in the flanks. An 
hour passed, but the colt was untamed, and he now 
attempted another plan for procuring his freedom. 
Bending his neck until his nose touched the ground, 



92 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

and 'throwing his legs together, he jumped into the air, 
throwing his rider at each jump nearly two feet above 
his saddle. 

" Now comes the vuelto malo " (bad turn), shouted 
Don Carlos ; " look, hijo mio ! " The colt's nose again 
touched the ground; he then attempted to throw a 
summersault; he almost succeeded; if he had, he would 
have crushed the boy; but the rider watched the 
right opportunity, and adjusted the position and weight 
of his body, so that the horse was forced to settle upon 
his feet, when he again broke into a gallop ; but his step 
was feeble, and his strength gone, and he would fain lie 
upon the grass if his terrible persecutor would permit. 

His great exertions at length overpowered him, and, 
conquered, he allowed the gaucho to dismount, and 
place a halter over his head. What a change had come 
over the animal that two hours before was galloping 
over the plains with the freedom of the winds ! He 
stood perfectly still, his eyes closed ; his flanks were 
covered with sweat, which rolled off his body in large 
drops ; blood oozed from the wounds inflicted by the 
spur, and trickled down his limbs ; the nostrils were 
dilated, and blood was seen about the nose and mouth ; 
every vein stood prominent upon his swollen body, and 
his whole appearance was that of intense suffering and 
fear. 

" What a cruel system ! " I involuntarily exclaimed. 
" How the poor animal has suffered ! " 

The gaucho again laughed, and answered, "Why do 
you pity him ? he is worth but three dollars. There are 
plenty more better than this one." 

The young conqueror of eighteen led home his prize, 



GAUCHo's EQUESTRIAN SKILL. 93 

and placed it in the corral, where it lay for several 
days, unable to stand, eat, or sleep. Such is the course 
of training, or breaking in, of wild colts. At the expi- 
ration of ten days after the first lesson the animal is 
again ridden, and a third lesson completely breaks him, 
w T hen he is increased fifty cents in value, which sum is 
paid the gaucho for his trouble, and the pains he has to 
endure from the -conflict.* Of course the colt's mouth 
is too tender to bear the hard iron bit for many days. 

After we returned to the house, the gauchos, to fur- 
ther show their prowess and accomplishments, prepared 
for some of their favorite games. First came the trial 
of " breasting horses." 

Two gauchos mounted their steeds, and, after receiv- 
ing and answering the proper challenge, separated, 
taking stands about forty rods apart. At a given sig- 
nal, they spurred their horses, and, as if bent on de- 
stroying each other, rushed with the greatest force their 
steeds together, breast to breast. So great was the 
concussion, that the riders were forced from the ani- 
mals' backs, and tumbled, half stunned, to the ground. 
But they quickly recovered ; and, as both were anxious 
for a second trial, they mounted again and dashed to- 
gether, this time only one being unseated, but he was 
so lame that he declined a third trial. 

Next came the trial of crowding horses. 

Two mounted gauchos placed their beasts side by 
side, and, spurring the animals on the flanks, each strug- 

* In conversation with many gauchos who break in colts for 
the estancieros, I have been informed this is the price paid them 
for their labor, and in hard times even a less sum is paid. This 
was in the far interior of the pampa provinces. — Author, 



94 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

gled to crowd the other. The horses seemed to share 
their riders' spirits, and at last one little beast crowded 
his opponent up to the door of the cook-house, and 
finally through it. This was followed by another game. 

A bar was placed across the corral entrance, at about 
the height of the horse's head. A gaucho mounted, 
and then retired several rods from the corral, when he 
turned, and galloped towards the gate, and, without 
checking his speed, threw himself out of the saddle, 
and, passing with the horse under the bar, regained his 
seat, without having left the animal or touched the 
ground. Loud applause followed the achievement, and 
others followed in the game, all with good success. 

As I had seen, in the early part of the day, the skill 
with which the gaucho can throw the lasso, Don Carlos 
expressed the desire to show his skill with the bolia- 
dores. Mounting his horse, and removing the three 
balls which were fastened to the peak of his saddle, he 
gavfc chase to a cow, and, when within thirty or forty 
yards of her, whirled the balls around his head with 
great force, and cast them towards her. Away they 
flew through the air like chain-shot, and, fastening 
themselves about the hind legs of the fugitive, tumbled 
her to the ground in an instant. 

The three boliadores are made of round stones, en- 
closed in hide covers ; they are attached to the lasso 
by long sinews of animals. Wooden balls are used 
when it is feared that stone boliadores might break the 
legs of the animal or bird to be captured. 

Estancia life has a degree of loneliness and quiet 
that would be unbearable to any one but those who 
have been reared in it, or have lived in places similar 
in character to the surrounding country. 



ESTANCIA LIFE. 95 

On the estancia lives the proprietor and his family, 
alone in the solitude of the plains. Around them is 
one continual monotony, with no moving thing, as far 
as the eye can reach, save the herds that graze in the 
vicinity of the house. Day after day the same routine 
is followed, until, from very habit, it becomes a second 
nature. The young herdsman has the few characters 
around him to imitate ; and as he sees but little of the 
outside world, — and then only when some clia de fiesie 
attracts him to the nearest village, — he grows up an 
exact copy of his father; so far as character and general 
mental qualities go, a veritable " chip of the old block." 
Therefore, when we take into consideration the isolated 
life of the gauchos, we should willingly pardon some 
of their many failings. 

The gauchos of the towns give no more correct idea 
of their pampa brethren than do the domesticated In- 
dians of our western country of the savage tribes of the 
prairies and forests before the arrival of the pilgrims. 
It is only away upon the vast plains that the gaucho is 
found in the same half-civilized state that he was in 
fifty years ago. 

A distinguished Argentine statesman and author, 
wishing to fairly civilize the gauchos, formed a society 
for the purpose, to which many of the leading estanci- 
eros of the province of Buenos Ayres lent their influ- 
ence. It was the object of the society, first, to persuade 
the herdsmen to eschew all gewgaws, such as silver 
mountings for their horses, trinkets, the peculiar cos- 
tume of the pampas, the poncho, chiropa, frilled draw- 
ers, wide belt, and colt-skin boots. After they had 
effected their first object, and dressed the fellows in 



96 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

pantaloons, coat, and boots, they intended to offer them 
the means of education and enlightenment, by means 
of teachers, books, &c. The plan has not been carried 
out, and, according to the last accounts from the coun- 
try, it had not met with any real encouragement. The 
gaucho will still be a gaucho, in spite of all the efforts 
of philanthropists to educate him. 

The character of the gaucho is a curious combination 
of deceit, superstition, and hospitality, the latter not 
real, but only assumed, with the expectation of gain or 
reward. Though they show aversion to manual labor, 
and are generally proud-spirited (particularly in the 
provinces of Buenos Ayres and Cordova), they are easily 
amused; the guitar and mazes of the dance possess 
strong attractions for them, and they will enter into 
la zamba cueca with a wonderful degree of interest. 

The gauchos exhibit a combination of the customs 
of other countries. They use the lasso after the man- 
ner of the Mexican vaquero. Miers shows that their 
habit of cooking meat upon a stick or iron spit (asador) 
came from the Moors, through Spain. They have bor- 
rowed several of their customs from the aboriginal in- 
habitants, — the use of the yerba, sucking it through a 
tube from the gourd, the mate, also that formidable 
weapon, the boliadores, and the lariat, or lasso, which is 
used by the pampa tribes and Patagonians. 

The estancia life is best fitted to develop the true 
gaucho character ; there is a freedom of feeling experi- 
enced in coursing over the boundless plains that is 
peculiarly agreeable to him. 

A little sketch of estancia life will, perhaps, not prove 
uninteresting to the reader. 



ESTANCIA LIFE. 97 

First, regarding the right of possession and equality 
of standing of the members of the family relative to the 
property upon which they live. 

The estancia is generally left by will to the wife and 
children, the wife one third, the boys and girls equal 
shares. Sometimes she who has been called wife, is 
not legally entitled to the name ; but this matters lit- 
•tle ; she had the right of the property while her spouse 
lived, and the same rule follows after death, unless 
specially mentioned in the last will and testament, by 
her lord, to the contrary. The members of the family 
rarely divide the property, but live together as before 
the head of the family died, each member consulting ( 
the others before making any sales of stock, &c. 

The peons, or laborers, that live upon the estancia, 
rise half an hour before sunrise, take a mate without 
sugar (unless the proprietor is unusually considerate), 
and at sunrise select the horses from the drove in the 
corral. A portion of the number mount, and gallop 
off to their respective herds, to select a new pasturage 
ground, and to prevent them from straying away. 

The remaining peons select the half-broken colts, 
and, after tying them to stout stakes, entangle the ani- 
mals with coils of the lasso, tripping them off their feet, 
and rolling them on the ground. This is to teach the 
young horse to be gentle under difficulties, or, in other 
words, not to prance and kick when anything touches 
the heels. 

At about eight or nine o'clock the peons return, and 
report to the capatoz (foreman), or to the estanciero 
himself, the condition of the animals under their respec- 
tive supervisions. The daily ration is then given them, 
7 



98 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

which they cook and eat. Perhaps a colt or mule is to 
be ridden for the first time ; if so, this exercise follows 
their breakfast. At noon the peons return to the little 
shanties that surround the dwelling of their master, 
and, after taking a few mates, and perhaps another 
asado, they stretch themselves upon the ground to en- 
joy the siesta hour, which, however, often becomes 
hours in length. 

The last departure to the plains occurs about three 
o'clock, and all the men return about dusk ; they sup 
on the simple roast, drink a few mates, then roll them- 
selves up in their ponchos, and sleep soundly, with 
, only a skin or hide beneath them, until, from habit, 
they awake at the usual hour, and commence the duties 
of another day. 

The Sabbaths and feast days are strictly kept by the 
gauchos in their own peculiar way. They consider it 
wrong to work on these days, and when they do, a fine 
is imposed upon the offenders. But it is perfectly al- 
lowable for men and women to dance, gamble, and 
fight upon a feast day. If the traveller is by any chance 
in one of the small mud towns in the pampa country, 
he will see gauchos gallop up into the place from estan- 
cias ten, fifteen, and even twenty leagues distant. 

They pass the day in testing horsemanship, stealing, 
pitting fighting-cocks, confessing sins to the padres, and 
not unfrequently the grand finale is a general melee, 
from which few escape without a wound. On such 
occasions, he who can particularly distinguish himself 
as a diable is generally treated by the crowd, who ply 
him with aguardiente, and other liquors, until he some- 
times mistakes friends for foes. A fine of twenty dol- 



GAUCHO COSTUME. 99 

lars was once imposed on Sabbath and feast-day break- 
ers, — those who were caught at work. 

As the priests had many saints to distinguish by 
honoring them with particular days, the list received 
continual acquisitions. St. John's day, St. Paul's day, 
Saint this one, and Saint that, cheated the laboring 
classes of the towns out of a living ; for all these days 
were better adapted for losing money than for acquir- 
ing it. But General Rosas cut down the long list of 
holidays to the number now observed, which is more 
than large enough for a fair share of frolic and piety. 

When dressed in full regalia, the herdsman's appear- 
ance is very picturesque: in place of pantaloons he 
wears a chiropa and calgoncillas. The former is a 
square piece of cloth drawn about the thighs, and fas- 
tened around the waist with a belt ; it descends as far 
as the knees, from which downward the leg is covered 
with the calgoncillas, a wide pair of linen or cotton 
drawers, finely worked, and ornamented with two or 
three frills. The feet are encased in a pair of botas de 
potro, being the skin stripped from the leg of a calf, 
and rubbed until it has become soft and pliable. The 
heels are decorated with a pair of iron or silver spurs, 
of huge proportions, that rattle and jingle as the gaucho 
moves about. A shirt, poncho, and hat complete the 
costume. 

For ornament and use, the gaucho carries a long 
knife, placed crosswise in his belt behind. The hilt is 
very broad, and contains pockets to hold tobacco, flint 
and steel, and horn of tinder ; the outside of the tira* 
dor, as the belt is called, is covered with silver and base 
dollars, that are the gaucho's pride. 



100 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Upon a feast day the fellow decks out his horse with 
silver ornaments, and rides forth to see and to be seen. 
Not unfrequently his wife rides behind him, seated 
upon a poncho laid upon the horse's croup ; but she is 
inferior to his horse in the estimation of the rider, upon 
which animal is lavished almost all the wealth (if he is 
poor) of the owner. 

We passed a most pleasant day with Don Carlos, 
and when we retired to our couches we felt that the 
visit had been well worth the time it had cost. 

On the next morning, as soon as etiquette would 
permit, we bade adieu to our host and his family, and, 
mounting our horses, commenced our long ride back 
to Rosario. 

Nothing occurred of importance, or that would in- 
terest the reader, and the next day we were welcomed 
cordially by the G.'s, my friends at Rosario. 



DON J0S£. 101 



CHAPTER VII. 

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS. 

T sunrise on the day but one following that men- 
tioned at the close of the preceding chapter, I 
left the house of my hospitable friend, after bidding 
farewell to my amiable hostess, and proceeded with 
Mr. G. to a plaza on the outskirts of the town, from 
whence all troops of carts or mules take their depar- 
ture for the interior provinces of the country. 

We entered the square in time to find Don Jose 
Leon Perera, the patron or owner of the caravan, who 
was reclining upon a skin beneath the cart that con- 
tained his personal property, enjoying his cigarito, and 
finishing his fifth mate. This gentleman received his 
visitors with a pompous wave of the hand, and request- 
ed us to be seated, pointing at the same time to an old 
wheel lying not far off upon the ground. 

Some minutes having passed in exchanging compli- 
ments, after the manner of the country, Mr. G. informed 
the patron that he had with him a young man who 
had come from El Norte with the intention of cross- 
ing the pampas, and that he proposed accompanying 
the caravan on foot; moreover, as he was inexperi- 
enced, it would be necessary to place him beneath his 
(Don Jose's) protecting care. At mention of my cross- 



102 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ing the plains on foot, Don Jose, with a stare of aston- 
ishment, declared it could not' be done. To the second 
proposition — that of his assuming my guardianship 
— he acquiesced, however, and mentioned upon what 
terms I could accompany him. For the use of a horse 
(in case I should need an animal), and a place in a 
cart for my baggage, seventeen dollars would be re- 
quired of me — a sum sufficient to have purchased two 
ordinary horses, at the prices which they then were 
sold at. 

Four dollars were demanded for the supply of meat, 
of which I was to have an ample allowance ; and be- 
sides this sum, a fee of one dollar was to be given to 
a native — a fellow of villanous appearance — who was 
to be my compariero (companion) and cook. It was to 
be his particular duty to see that his protege was well 
attended, well fed, and guarded from all harm if the 
Indians should attack the caravan. Of course I was 
to believe that great valor would be exhibited, and 
much blood be spilled, by the brave individual who 
was to be my protector. My new guardian and the 
other drivers of the carts differed widely from the in- 
habitants of the pampa provinces. They belonged in 
the northern part of the republic, in the distant prov- 
ince of Santiago, and spoke the ancient language of 
their fathers, — the Quichua, — while the patron and 
two or three natives of the lower states conversed 
in the Spanish or common language of the country. 
Knowing that I should be unable to converse with Don 
Jose or his peons while upon the journey, I made a 
number of inquiries in relation to the manner of liv- 
ing, and what I might expect on the trip, all of which, 



COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNEY. 103 

with the assistance of Mr. G., were comprehended by 
the natives, and I was answered that luxurious living, 
sympathizing friends, and unalloyed enjoyment were 
to be the accompaniments of my journey across the 
pampas. The anxiety that had caused me many sleep- 
less nights previous to the interview with the patron 
and his Indian peons now disappeared, and I looked 
forward to opportunities for gleaning, in a rich field, a 
harvest of information and valuable facts not yet famil- 
iar to my adventurous countrymen. 

Matters having been settled by my paying Don Jose 
in advance the full demands he made, Mr. G. took me 
aside, and prayed God speed me on my way. "If you 
have money with you," said he, " by no means let it be 
seen, as these drivers do not bear a good name, and 
they would not scruple to rob you should opportunity 
offer. The patron I believe to be honest, and while 
he is with the troop you have nothing to fear." He 
then bade me farewell, pressed my hand cordially, and 
we parted. 

Towards noon about one hundred oxen were driven 
into the plaza, when each peon, having received his 
allotted six, conducted them to his cart. A piece of 
tough wood, six or seven feet in length, five inches in 
width, and three in thickness, served as a yoke ; it was 
laid on the neck, just back of the animal's horns, and 
lashed securely to them by a long strip of raw hide, 
thus causing the whole strain to come upon the head 
and neck, instead of upon the shoulders, as is custom- 
ary with cattle that are yoked as in the United States. 

The carts were most cumbrous affairs, and in appear- 
ance were not unlike a rancho^ or native hut, set upon 



104 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

wheels, The body consisted of a framework of sticks, 
covered upon the sides and back with small reeds, and 
roofed with cattle hides, which rendered them secure 
against the heaviest rain. The carts, which probably- 
exceeded twelve feet in length, were only four feet 
wide, and, being mounted upon two wheels of extraor- 
dinary diameter, were sufficiently novel and striking to 
my uneducated eyes. The only iron used in their con- 
struction consisted of a few scraps used to strengthen 
the nave of the wheel ; all the other parts were fas- 
tened together by bands of hide, and wooden pins. 
The heavy tongue rested upon the yoke of the first 
pair of oxen, and from it ran long ropes of hide, 
which connected with the yokes of the second pair 
and leaders. 

The method of driving the oxen practised by these 
people is most barbarous. There projects, a few feet 
from the roof, running forward of the cart, a portion 
of the ridge-pole, from which is suspended, by a piece 
of lasso, a becket that swings to and fro with the mo- 
tion of the cart. This becket supports a heavy cane, 
nearly thirty feet in length, having at the end a sharp 
iron nail that serves to quicken the movements of the 
leaders ; above the second pair is another goad, differ- 
ing from the first by projecting from a wooden cone 
that hangs beneath the cane-pole. 

This instrument is called the picano grande, and it 
requires a skilful hand in its guidance, in consequence 
of its weight and the constant oscillatory motion when 
the wagon is moving. The driver holds one end in 
his right hand, and, by constant thrusts, drives it into 
the animals without mercy. By lifting the end of the 



PICANOS AND THEIR USE. 105 

picano, the part outside the becket is lowered, and the 
perpendicular goad touches the backs of the second 
pair, while in his left hand the driver holds the picano 
chico (little goad), and spurs the tongue oxen, or those 
nearest the wagon, upon which the severest labor falls. 
The principle upon which the cattle are guided is also 
peculiar. If the driver wishes the ox to turn to the 
left, the goad is applied to that side, and the animal 
follows the direction pricked upon him; if to the 
right, the picano is applied to that side, with a similar 
result. I have seen the unfortunate beasts goaded 
until the blood trickled from their wounds; but still 
they followed the instrument, upon whichever side they 
felt its sharp sting. With small carts, having but one 
pair of oxen, the driver sits upon the yoke and tongue 
of the vehicle, picano in hand, with his legs coiled be- 
neath him a la Turque. 

Everything was in readiness for the journey, but the 
butcher had not arrived with the meat for provisions, 
a delay at which the patron gave vent to many a car- 
ramba of impatience. Shortly, however, a little, rick- 
etty, two-wheeled cart, lashed together with strips of 
hide, was driven into the plaza, and its owner distrib- 
uted the expected meat among the different carts. 
While he was thus employed, some women, carrying 
a little tinsel-covered Santa, passed around the cara- 
van, and each peon devoutly kissed the garments of 
the image, to insure, as I supposed, a prosperous journey. 

At last the caravan commenced its march, and we 
bade farewell to Rosario and to civilization, Don Jose 
the patron and Don Manuel the capatoz leading the 
caravan, on horseback. 



106 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

First following them were, creaking loudly, fourteen 
clumsy carts loaded with yerba, sugar, iron, and other 
merchandise. Next came fifteen or twenty spare oxen, 
as many horses, with about a dozen mules, driven by 
an old guide, two youngsters, and the carpenter of the 
troop, who also acted as assistant capatoz. I walked 
in advance of the patron, though he advised me to 
enter the cart, as walking, he said, was injurious to 
the system. 

Our course lay over a level country covered with 
fine grass, which, having been pastured by cattle, was 
very short. After journeying four miles, we came to 
a halt ; the oxen were unlashed, and allowed to feed 
by the roadside, while the men kindled a fire of this- 
tles, roasted a strip of meat, and took their gourds of 
Paraguay tea. 

The manner of cooking meat on the pampas is worth 
a moment's attention. After an animal has been killed, 
the meat is cut into pieces, without any regard to anat- 
omy, or to the butcher's "regular cuts," and an iron 
spit called the asador is. run longitudinally through 
each strip. The asador is stuck into the ground close 
by the fire, and, being carefully watched, the steak is 
gradually cooked in a manner that would gain no dis- 
credit in a well-regulated kitchen. The result of this 
method of cooking is that none of the juices of the 
meat are lost. 

When our asadors were sufficiently roasted, the 
chief took them from the fire, and, driving the point 
of the spit into the ground, invited me, with a pro- 
found salaam, to commence my repast. Cutting a 
small piece from the roasted strip, and taking it upon 



GAUCHO ETIQUETTE. 107 

the point of my knife, I put it, as a matter of course, 
into my mouth. At this the group around me broke 
into a boisterous laugh, and one swarthy fellow volun- 
teered his services in teaching me how to eat a la gau- 
cho. Drawing from his belt that inseparable compan- 
ion which the gaucho never parts with — a long knife 
— the fellow cut off a strip of meat, and, holding one 
end with his fingers, dropped the other into his mouth ; 
then followed a quick upward stroke with the knife, so 
close to his lips that I involuntarily started, severing 
the meat, and leaving a huge piece between his teeth. 
This feat was accomplished so rapidly that it aston- 
ished me; but as I found that it was the universal 
custom among the peons, I attempted to imitate them. 
But on the first trial the blade of my knife came in 
contact with the end of my nose, cutting it enough to 
draw blood. At this a loud laugh went through the 
group, at the expense of "Bostron the gringo," which 
name they insisted upon calling me, notwithstanding 
my efforts to-show that Boston, and not Bostron, was 
my native city. 

After the usual siesta, we continued our journey. 
Nothing of importance occurred until sunset, when, 
as I glanced across the plain, it seemed to at once be- 
come endowed with life. As the sun sank below the 
horizon, the owners of innumerable little burrows, 
which I had noticed through the greater part of the 
afternoon all over the plains, came out of the holes in 
such numbers as to astonish the uninitiated. As I 
watched one of the holes, I saw first a little round 
head, enlivened by a pair of black, twinkling eyes, 
peeping out; then followed a dusky body, and, finally, 



108 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

the animal, having become satisfied that our intensions 
were roc unfriendly, sat by his doorway with the great- 
est nonchalance imaginable ; but in a moment, after 
observing us curiously, he scampered off to join the 
hundreds, if not thousands, that were playing about 
in the grass around us. 

Sometimes we saw an old female trotting along with 
four or five young ones on a visit to a neighbor ; and 
frequently we saw some of these reunions, in which, 
while the old people were exchanging compliments, 
the juvenile members of the family chased each other 
merrily about the mounds. 

These animals, which bore some resemblance to the 
marmots, were called by the natives bizcacha. The 
species is the Lagostomus trichodactyl/us of natural- 
ists. Its habits are similar to those of the proper 
marmots; in size it exceeds the opossum of North 
America. 

About the entrance of the burrows I noticed that a 
quantity of rubbish is usually collected, such as the 
bones of deceased relatives and of other animals, 
mixed with thistles, roots, &c. These bizcachas are 
found all over the pampas, as far south as the confines 
of Patagonia, beyond which, however, they have never 
been observed. 

The singular habit of collecting all compact sub- 
stances about their burrows seems peculiar to these 
animals. A traveller's watch, which had been lost, 
was found at the entrance to one of their domiciles, 
the animals having dragged it from the camp near by. 

Darwin says the bizcacha is found as far north as 
30° south latitude, and "abounds even to Mendoza, 
and is there replaced by an Alpine species." 



BIZCACHAS. 109 

It is not an inhabitant of the Banda Oriental, east 
of the Uruguay River. 

The following accounts of North American species 
will be interesting to the reader, since they give a 
good idea of the habits of nearly allied species. Au- 
dubon and Bachman, in their Quadrupeds of North 
America, say of the prairie dog, " This noisy spermo- 
phile, or marmot, is found in numbers, sometimes hun- 
dreds, of families together, living in burrows on the 
prairies ; and their galleries are so extensive as to 
render riding among them quite unsafe in many places. 
Their habitations are generally called dog towns, or 
villages, by the Indians and trappers, and are described 
as being intersected by streets (pathways) for their 
accommodation, and a degree of neatness and cleanli- 
ness is preserved. These villages or communities are, 
however, sometimes infested with rattlesnakes and 
other reptiles which feed upon these animals. The 
burrowing owl (Surnia cunicularia) is also found 
among them. Occasionally these marmots stood quite 
erect, and watched our movements, and then leaped 
into the air, all the time keeping an eye on us. Now 
and then, one of them, after coming out of his hole, 
issued a long and somewhat whistling note, perhaps a 
call or invitation to his neighbors, as several came out 
in a few moments. They are, as we think, more in the 
habit of feeding by night than in the daytime." 

Lieutenant Abert, who observed the prairie dog in 
New Mexico, says it does not hibernate, " but is out 
all winter, as lively and as pert as on any summer 
day." Another observer states that it "closes accu- 
rately the mouth of its furrow, and constructs at the 



110 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

bottom of it a neat globular cell of fine dry grass, 
having an aperture at the top sufficiently large to ad- 
mit a finger, and so compactly put together that it 
might almost be rolled along the ground, unin- 
jured." 

Perhaps different winter temperatures in different 
localities may govern the habit of hibernation. 

The following sketch, from Kendall's narrative of 
the Texan expedition to Santa Fe, is so interesting 
that I present it to the reader : — 

"We sat down upon a bank, under the shade of a 
mesquit, and leisurely surveyed the scene before us. 
Our approach had driven every one to his home in our 
immediate vicinity, but at the distance of some hun- 
dred yards the small mound of earth in front of each 
burrow was occupied by a prairie dog, sitting erect on 
his hinder legs, and coolly looking about for the cause 
of the recent commotion. Every now and then, some 
citizen, more adventurous than his neighbor, would 
leave his lodgings, on a flying visit to a friend, appar- 
ently exchange a few words, and then scamper back as 
fast as his legs would carry him. By and by, as we 
kept perfectly still, some of our near neighbors were 
seen cautiously poking their heads from out their holes, 
looking craftily, and at the same time inquisitively, 
about them. Gradually a citizen would emerge from 
the entrance of his domicile, come out upon his obser- 
vatory, peek his head cunningly, and then commence 
yelping, somewhat after the manner of a young puppy, 
a quick jerk of the tail accompanying each yelp. It is 
this short bark alone that has given them the name of 
dogs, as they bear no more resemblance to that ani- 



BIZCACHAS. Ill 

mal, either in appearance, action, or manner of living, 
than they do to the hyena. 

" Prairie clogs are a wild, frolicsome, madcap set of 
fellows when undisturbed, uneasy, and ever on the 
move, and appear to take especial delight in chatter- 
ing away the time, and visiting from hole to hole to 
gossip and talk over each other's affairs ; at least, so 
their actions would indicate. When they find a good 
location for a village, and there is no water in the im- 
mediate vicinity, old hunters say they dig a well to 
supply the wants of the community. On several occa- 
sions I crept close to their villages without being ob- 
served, to watch their movements. Directly in the 
centre of one of them I noticed a very large dog, 
which, by his actions, and those of his neighbors, seemed 
the chief or big dog of the village. For at least an hour 
I watched this village ; during this time the large dog 
received at least a dozen visits from his fellow-dogs, 
who would stop and chat with him a few minutes, and 
then run off to their holes. All this while he never 
left his seat at the entrance to his home, and I thought 
that I could perceive a gravity in his deportment not 
discernible in those by whom he was surrounded. Far 
is it from me to say that the visits he received were 
upon business, or had anything to do with the local 
government of the village, but it certainly appeared so." 

The bizcacha does not live alone, for in each burrow 
I found a pair of small owls, of the species known by 
the name of the "Burrowing Owl of South America" 
(Athene cunicularia, Molina). As these birds are 
somewhat peculiar in their habits, and some few errors 
have crept into the writings of various authors regard- 



112 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ing them, I will, for the information of those interested, 
present the following sketch of their habits, the result 
of observations which I made during my long journey. 

I first met with this owl on the banks of the River 
San Juan, in the Banda Oriental, one hundred and 
twenty miles west of Montevideo, where a few pairs 
were observed devouring mice and insects during the 
daytime. From the river, travelling westward thirty 
miles, I did not meet a single individual, but after 
crossing the Las Vacas, and coming upon a sandy 
waste covered with scattered trees and low bushes, I 
again met with several. 

Upon the pampas of the Argentine Republic they 
are found in great numbers, from a few miles west of 
Rosario, on the Parana, latitude 32° 56' south, to 
the vicinity of San Luis, where the pampas end, and a 
travesia or saline desert commences. 

On these immense plains of grass it lives in company 
with the bizcacha. The habits of this bird are said to 
be the same as those of the species that inhabits the 
holes of the marmots upon the prairies of western 
North America. But this is not strictly correct, for 
one writer says of the northern species, " we have no 
evidence that the owl and marmot habitually resort to 
one burrow ; " and Say remarks that " they were either 
common, though unfriendly, residents of the same habi- 
tation, or that our owl was the sole occupant of a 
burrow acquired by the right of conquest." In this 
respect they differ from their South American rela- 
tives, who live in perfect harmony with the bizcacha, 
and during the day, while the latter is sleeping, a pair 
of these birds stand a few inches within the main 



BURROWING OWLS. 113 

entrance of the burrow, and at the first strange sound, 
be it near or distant, they leave their station, and re- 
main outside the hole, or upon the mound which forms 
the roof of the domicile. When man approaches, both 
birds mount above him in the air, and keep uttering 
their alarm note, with irides dilated, until he passes, 
when they quietly settle down in the grass, or return 
to their former place. 

While on the pampas, I did not observe these birds 
taking prey during the daytime, but at sunset the 
bizcachas and owls leave their holes, and search for 
food, the young of the former playing about the birds 
as they alighted near them. They do not associate in 
companies, there being but one pair to each hole, and 
at night do not stray far from their homes. 

In describing the North American burrowing owl, a 
writer says that the species " suddenly disappears* in 
the early part of August," and that "the species is 
strictly diurnal." 

The Athene cunicularia has not these habits. It 
does not disappear during any part of the year, and it 
is both nocturnal and diurnal, for though I did not 
observe it preying by day on the pampas, I noticed 
that it fed at all hours of the day and night on the 
north shore of the Plata, in the Banda Oriental. 

At longitude 66° west our caravan struck the great 
saline desert that stretches to the Andes, and dur- 
ing fourteen days' travel on foot I did not see a 
dozen of these birds ; but while residing outside the 
town of San Juan, at the eastern base of the Andes, I 
had an opportunity to watch their habits in a locality 
differing materially from the pampas. 
8 



114 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

The months of September and October are the con- 
jugal ones. During the middle of the former month 
I obtained a male bird with a broken wing. It lived 
in confinement two days, refusing to eat, and died from 
the effects of the wound. A few days later a boy 
brought me a female owl, with five eggs, that had been 
taken from her nest, five feet from the mouth of a 
burrow that wound among the roots of a tree. 

She was fierce in her cage, and fought with wings 
and beak, uttering all the while a shrill, prolonged 
note, resembling the sound produced by drawing a 
file across the teeth of a saw. I supplied her with 
eleven full-grown mice, which were devoured during 
the first thirty-six hours of confinement. 

I endeavored to ascertain if this species burrows its 
own habitation, but my observations of eight months 
failed to impress me with the belief that it does. I 
have conversed with intelligent persons who have been 
familiar with their habits, and never did I meet one 
that believed this bird to be its own workman. It 
places a small nest of feathers at the end of some oc- 
cupied or deserted burrow, as necessity demands, in 
which are deposited from two to five white eggs, which 
are nearly spherical in form, and are a little larger than 
the eggs of the domestic pigeon. 

In the Banda Oriental, where the country is as fine, 
and the favorite food of the owl more plentifully dis- 
tributed than upon the pampas, this bird is not com- 
mon in comparison with the numbers found in the 
latter locality. The reason is obvious. The bizcacha 
does not exist in the Banda Oriental, and consequent- 
ly these birds have a poor chance for finding habi- 
tations. 



FIRST NIGHT WITH THE CARAVAN. 115 

On the pampas, where thousands upon thousands of 
bizcachas undermine the soil, there, in their true local- 
ity, the traveller finds thousands of owls. Again, along 
the bases of the Andes, where the bizcacha is rarely- 
met with, we find only a few pairs. Does the hole, 
from which my bird was taken, appear to be the work 
of a bird or quadruped ? The several works that I 
have been able to consult do not, in one instance, give 
personal observations relative to the burrowing pro- 
pensities of this owl ; from which fact, it will be in- 
ferred that it never has been caught in the act of 
burrowing. 

We continued our journey while the sun left in the 
western heavens beautiful clouds of purple and gray as 
souvenirs of his company through the bright, warm 
day. 

Around us on the plains were many animals in 
droves and herds, all preparing for the night. Troops 
of wild colts galloped homeward past us at the heels 
of their anxious mothers, who occasionally halted as 
if to dispute our right of passage through their terri- 
tory. Darkness now set in, and soon the caravan halted 
for the night. I made my bed upon a raw hide, spread 
upon the top of the cargo in the cart, and was soon 
fast asleep ; but I was shortly awakened by Don 
Facundo, who climbed into the cart, coughing loudly, ' 
and saying, by dumb show, pointing towards the south- 
west, that a pampero had commenced blowing. The 
wind, which was accompanied by rain and hail, vio- 
lently shook the old cart, and whistled dolefully through 
its reed-covered sides. The don's cough had increased 
alarmingly, and he shivered with cold. " Companero" 



116 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

he continually called out, giving me a poke to signify 
something that his ignorance of the Spanish language 
would not allow him to express more intelligibly, for 
he spoke only the tongue of his native province — the 
Quichua. I at last handed him my overcoat — an act 
of generosity that I afterwards regretted, for, though I 
applied several times for its restoration during the 
journey, he would not give it up, but ate, slept, and 
worked in it until we had crossed the country, and it 
was no longer serviceable. 



RIDING A RAM. 117 



CHAPTER VIII. 

LIFE ON THE PAMPAS — CONTINUED. 

THE night passed drearily away, and glad enough 
was I when day dawned, and the caravan was 
prepared to start. 

Before we began to move, I retired to my cart, and 
changed my clothes, appearing before my companions 
in the unconfined and comfortable garb of a sailor. 

The moment the peons, who were clustered around 
the fire, beheld me, they shouted to each other " Monte- 
nerof" a word which at that time I did not comprehend, 
but which, as I learned some months later, was the 
name of a particular class of bandits, who, about 1817, 
under the leadership of Artizas, filled the republic with 
consternation. Probably my sailor's dress resembled 
that of the robbers. 

As the heavy mist rolled off the pampas, we discerned 
two shepherds driving their flocks to another pasture ; 
and, as there was no hut in sight, they had prob- 
ably passed the night sleeping upon their saddles, a 
common custom of the herdsmen. As a specimen of 
his skill, the younger of the two spurred his horse after 
a ram, the patriarch of the flock, and, as he drew near 
it, swung the lasso a few times around his head, and 
the fatal noose fell over the neck of the animal. 



118 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Dismounting from his horse, the gaucho jumped upon 
the ram, which began to run for dear life. As they 
scampered over the plain, I could plainly see pieces of 
wool flying from the animal's fleecy sides, as the rider 
plied his sharp, heavy spurs. 

But rams were evidently not created for saddle-beasts, 
for the animal stumbled in his flight, upsetting, in a 
most ludicrous manner, his rider, who sprawled upon 
the turf. 

Our caravan was now in motion. As we proceeded 
on our course, the pampa gradually became more undu- 
lating, and was covered with a coarser herbage, shooting 
up in clumps to the height of a foot or more. 

Soon after sunrise we met a party of eight horsemen 
from Mendoza, one of whom was armed with a spear, 
which was ornamented with a flag. About ten o'clock 
we passed a miserable estancia house, built of burnt 
bricks ; we halted near it for the purpose of greasing the 
wheels of the carts. This was attended to by the cap- 
atoz. He first cut into thin slices a pound of white 
native soap, and, after pouring hot water upon it, added 
a little salt, when he beat the whole together with a 
bunch of reeds drawn from the sides of the cart. While 
stirring this mixture, he would not permit me to look 
into the pail, but, turning his back on me, leaned over 
the mixture, muttering to himself, and making crosses 
over it, acting as if afraid that I would discover the 
recipe for the wheel-grease. 

Before noon the caravan was again in motion. Three 
half-starved dogs that accompanied us gave chase to 
several deer that appeared in sight, but they were un- 
able to approach them. These deer ( Cervus campestris) 



A MIRAGE. 119 

are very common on the pampas. They have one habit 
which is common to the antelopes of North American 
prairies. When a person approaches them, they seem 
anxious to make his acquaintance, drawing near, and 
scrutinizing him with much curiosity. They are a 
small species, are of a yellowish-brown color on the 
upper parts, and white beneath the body. They are 
hunted by the gauchos in parties, who pursue and cap- 
ture them with the boliadores. 

A species of parrot (JPsittacus patagonus) was ob- 
served flying in large flocks northward. At another 
time, I observed one or two very small species, of a 
green color, with grayish-white breasts. I have seen 
the same species in the Banda Oriental, flying in flocks 
of considerable size. 

The clearness of the atmosphere gave great effect to 
the mirages that we constantly beheld around us. 
Twice we seemed to see large lakes far in advance of 
our caravan, but they vanished utterly upon our mov- 
ing nearer them. 

On our right, in the distance, the mirage so much 
resembled the ocean, that our carpenter, who had been 
in Buenos Ayres, pointed to it, exclaiming, "El mar!" 
(the sea). 

Since leaving Rosario, we had met, along the road, 
flocks of small white gulls, feeding on carrion ; but they, 
during this day's march, became more scarce, and soon 
disappeared entirely, and we saw no more of them on 
the pampas. The little ponds of water before noticed 
were now rarely encountered, and it became necessary, 
therefore, to lay in a stock before going farther. Each 
cart was supplied with a long earthen jar, lashed on 



120 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

behind, which held five or six gallons ; these jars were 
filled; and these, with one or two demijohns stowed 
inside, comprised our water supply, — enough to last 
several days. 

About three o'clock in the afternoon a long, dark 
cloud of dust appeared above the horizon in advance 
of our troop, and the patron, beside whose horse I was 
walking, informed me that it was " una tropa de Men- 
dozaP In the course of the next half hour it made its 
appearance in the road before us. 

The troop presented a picturesque appearance as it 
slowly toiled along in divisions often carts each. The 
procession was headed by four or five asses, with pack- 
saddles and loads, and by a number of mules without 
luggage, driven by gauchos. After these followed the 
two divisions of carts, filled to such a degree with hides 
that their drivers were entirely hidden by them. This 
troop carried, as usual, a stock of firewood, consisting 
of heavy branches and gnarled stumps, which were 
lashed to the roofs of the carts. The relays consisted 
of thirty oxen and a few old cows, which were also 
under the guidance of a crew of almost savage gauchos. 
At sunset we passed a little knoll, conspicuous in the 
midst of the vast plain, surmounted by a small dwell- 
ing ; beyond it lay an extensive plantana (swamp), that 
we were obliged to traverse, although the labor it cost 
us was not inconsiderable. Several yokes of oxen were 
detached from the after carts, and connected with those 
of the leading wagons, when, w r ith a vast amount of 
uproar and merciless goading, each cart was drawn, in 
turn, through the mire. 

We encamped beyond the plantana, and supped 






GAUCHO ETIQUETTE AGAIN. 121 

upon sliced pumpkins, boiled with bits of meat, and sea- 
soned with salt. I would remark here that the gauchos 
never use salt with roasted meat, but frequently sprinkle 
it into a stew, if the heterogeneous messes which they 
compound and boil in iron pots are worthy of that title. 

Our meal was served in genuine pampa fashion ; one 
iron spoon and two cow's horns, split in halves, were 
passed around the group, the members of which squatted 
upon their haunches, and freely helped themselves from 
the kettle. 

Even in this most uncivilized form of satisfying hun- 
ger there is a peculiar etiquette, which the most lowly 
peon invariably observes. Each member of the com- 
pany in turn dips his spoon, or horn, into the centre 
of the stew, and draws it in a direct line towards him, 
never allowing it to deviate to the right or the left. 

By observing this rule, each person eats without in- 
terfering with his neighbor. Being ignorant of this 
custom, I dipped my horn into the mess at random, 
and fished about in it for some of the nice bits. My 
companions regarded this horrid breach of politeness 
with scowls of impatience ; they declared, with some 
warmth, to the capatoz that gringos did not know how 
to eat, and, u as they lived upon dogs in their own dis- 
tant country, they come to the great Argentine Repub- 
lic to get food and grow fat on the gauchos." I apolo- 
gized as well as I could, and endeavored, during the 
remainder of the meal, to eat according to gaucho eti- 
quette. 

As night came on, a brilliant scene was developed 
before us. As far as the eye could reach, we beheld 
the ruddy glow of a distant conflagration of the pampa 



122 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

herbage. Fortunately it did not approach us, but 
after giving us a view of one of the most sublime and 
magnificent sights in nature, it faded at last away into 
the south. 

During the night I suffered much from the cold. 

I was awakened on the following morning (Sunday) 
by my peon, who gave me to understand, by gestures, 
that the asado was prepared. As I joined the com- 
pany at the fire, the patron approached us with a pon- 
cho filled with watermelons, which he had purchased 
at the estancia house on the mound ; of these we ate 
heartily, and they were delicious. 

As the pieces of rind fell to the ground, they were 
eagerly devoured by the dogs, and by two little chil- 
dren that accompanied the troop. I often pitied these 
little neglected creatures, and shared with them my 
fare. I gave them a portion of my share of the mel- 
ons, and their gratitude was warm and demonstrative : 
they were going to Mendoza with their mother, the 
wife of one of the drivers. 

This was the first Sunday spent on the road ; and as 
there was a plenty of thistles for our fire, and good 
grass for the cattle, the day was passed without leav- 
ing camp, the gauchos amusing themselves with a pack 
of cards. 

I had with me an illustrated Testament. The peons, 
after gazing intently upon a picture of the crucifixion, 
declared that I was a Cristiano, and invited me to play 
cards with them. 

During the next day we saw a plenty of wire-grass, 
and at least thirty deer grazed within a mile of the 
wagons. No cattle were to be seen. The wind, which 



A MELANCHOLY INCIDENT. 123 

blew from the north-east, was very warm. Our course 
was west. 

In a halt which we made during the day's travel, I 
turned my blanket into a poncho, by cutting a hole 
in the middle, and thrusting my head through the aper- 
ture. When the gauchos saw my new garment, they 
shouted in admiration; and one or two, who could 
speak a little Spanish, exclaimed, " Gaucho, Bostron ! " 

At dark we camped near a corral, or cattle-yard, 
formed of the tunas^ a species of wild cactus. At sup- 
per we ate our last morsel of meat brought from Rosa- 
rio ; the bones were heated upon the fire, then broken, 
and the marrow greedily eaten by the men. 

Throughout the night the mosquitos and flies tor- 
mented me, until I was obliged to roll my head in a 
blanket. 

At dawn the troop set out, in the midst of a heavy 
shower, without eating, and kept on until Don Jose 
commanded a halt, in order to kill an old cow which 
had been purchased at an estancia the day before. 

We camped near a collection of mud-huts, surrounded 
by a gigantic growth of cactus, and called Guardia de 
la Esquina. It was the first place we had met that ap- 
proached the dignity of a village ; but its qualifications 
for that title were extremely limited. 

Half a mile south of the Esquina a low brick struc- 
ture, resembling in form two sugar-boxes, — one set on 
its side, and the other placed perpendicularly against 
it, — stood alone on the plain. A melancholy story is 
connected with this structure. 

Don B., a rich estanciero, owned many miles of the 
surrounding country ; and the report that he had much 



124 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

money buried in the earth about his brick casa excited 
the cupidity of the Indians. They came from the south 
in a large party, ransacked the place, and carried away 
the hoarded treasure, after cutting the throats of the 
don, his child, and sixteen peons, all of whom were 
afterwards buried in a common grave. 

While several of the men were slaughtering the 
cow, the carpenter, with two or three others of the 
troop, guided by a man sent from the Esquina, visited 
the hole in which the bodies lay. The earth had fallen 
in as the bodies had undergone decomposition, for they 
had been buried in the usual manner of the pampas, 
without any other covering than the clothes worn at 
the time of death. On reaching the spot, the gaucho 
from the town conversed at length with our men ; but 
the substance of his conversation was unintelligible to 
me. The carpenter threw off his poncho, and com- 
menced digging in good earnest, with a heavy hoe, 
which he had brought from the carts. 

Two little crosses marked the spot where father and 
child were laid. As his implement sank deep into the 
earth, a dull, crushing sound announced that it had 
buried itself in the skull of a man, and the digger 
drew forth the tool with a human head, greatly decom- 
posed, upon it. The hoe had entered between the jaws. 
At the sight a sickening sensation came over me ; but 
the Santiguenos, who had left their work, and were 
grouped around the grave, laughed at my sensations, 
and scraped away the. matted hair from the ghastly 
head, which was still red with blood, with their knives, 
which they returned to their sheaths without cleaning. 
It was a disgusting picture — the natives, with their 



FATE OF AN ENGLISH PARTY. 125 

bare legs and breasts besmeared with the blood of the 
animal they had just butchered, passing the head from 
hand to hand, and joking at a calamity that should 
have excited their pity and commiseration. 

The head of the child was also exhumed, and the 
two were placed in a bag to be taken to Mendoza, 
where the priests could pray over them ; for so long as 
they remained uninterred in the panteon (consecrated 
burying-ground), the souls that once animated them 
would be kept from the land of bliss. 

The attack by the Indians had occurred only a short 
time before our visit, and the prints of their horses 5 
hoofs were not obliterated from the spot where the 
butchery was done. 

Our caravan continued its course until nine o'clock, 
and passed Cabeza del Tigre, a place well known as 
having been the scene of a transaction equally lamen- 
table with the one just recorded. The facts were 
related to me by a gentleman in whose word I placed 
great confidence. 

Three English merchants who had made large for- 
tunes in California were returning to England, and, 
having their treasures with them, would not risk a 
passage around Cape Horn, but landing at Valparaiso, 
crossed the Cordillera to Mendoza, and there, in as 
private a manner as possible, engaged for the passage 
of their property in a large troop of carts bound to 
Rosario. 

Far better would it have been, as it proved, had 
they trusted to the ocean, rather than to have attempt- 
ed crossing, with their treasures, a country inhabited 
by a treacherous and lawless people. Despite all their 



126 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

efforts to keep the matter secret, it became known that 
a party of "gringos" from the land df gold were about 
to cross the pampas. The English character is prover- 
bially daring; the three merchants pursued their course, 
regardless of the reports of the natives and the advice 
of friends. The "great travesia was crossed, and they 
passed through the provinces of San Luis and Cordova 
in safety ; but when they reached the vicinity of Ca- 
beza del Tigre, several hundred Indians, mounted on 
horseback, and armed with spears, met them on the 
road and offered battle. 

The patron ordered the carts to be formed into a 
square, and the peons got within its protection. The 
three white men and the patron and capatoz fought 
desperately. The Englishmen were armed with double- 
barrelled guns, and for a time kept the enemy at bay ; 
one of them shot a cacique (chief), and this for a time 
kept the tide of battle in their favor. 

At that period, Cabeza del Tigre was a military fort ; 
the report of the guns 'aroused the soldiers, but for a 
time they were undecided how to act, through fear of 
the savages. At a moment when a vigorous attack by 
all the peons would have decided the battle, and some 
soldiers were even seen in the distance, galloping to- 
wards the spot, the Indians, with a desperate effort, 
succeeded in despatching the Englishmen, secured 
their treasure, and, before the small military force 
arrived, hurried away beyond their reach. 

The amount of money carried off by the Indians 
was reported to have been many thousand doubloons. 
Though this sum seems large, the amount taken must 
have been considerable, for my informant said that, 



REPORTS OF INDIAN MURDERS. 127 

for several weeks after the event had transpired, Rio 
Quarto and El Moro were visited by parties of In- 
dians, who were readily admitted as peaceful visitors, 
their purpose being to exchange gold onzas for silver, 
as they obtained more in bulk of the latter metal by 
the transaction. The silver coin was manufactured into 
rings and other trinkets. Those intended for the ears 
were several inches in diameter, and so heavy that 
they required to be supported by fastenings to the 
hair of the head. 

However lightly the peons regarded Indian murders 
at the Esquina, their faces assumed a very different 
expression from that of mirth, when, during the next 
day, a troop of mules from the interior passed us, and 
the patron informed our company that the savages 
had cut the throats of eleven soldiers not far from the 
very road that we were on. Their boisterous mirth 
was over; and during the several succeeding days I 
do not remember of having heard a single song, or 
a light word, in the company. They all looked 
dubious enough; one or two tried to amuse them- 
selves by drawing their knives across their throats in 
a significant manner before me, but their efforts only 
made me smile, and provoked the other members of 
the party. 

During the next day we passed over a country desti- 
tute of pasturage ; but the road ran along the River 
Quarto for an eighth of a mile, and we had, therefore, 
some muddy water to drink. 

At this place the river trended to the west; the right 
bank was about twenty-five feet in height, and as steep 
as a wall ; the left side was sloping and covered with 



128 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

vines, thorn-bushes, and gigantic cacti, which in one 
place formed a natural enclosure, in which I passed 
fully an hour, in watching the movements of a bird 
resembling our turtle-dove. The river was about twenty- 
feet wide, and had a sluggish current. 

We passed at dusk the hamlet of Saladillo, but could 
not catch a glimpse of it, though Don Manuel wished 
me to visit it with him; for, said he, "Say mucho pan, 
mucho queso, emuchas muchachas tambien" — "There 
is a plenty of bread and cheese, and also a great many 
young ladies." 

Upon the pampas, winds from opposite quarters fre- 
quently meet and form little whirlwinds, that some- 
times take up a large cloud of dust, which helps to 
relieve the monotony of the journey ; but these clouds 
of dust not only settle upon the weary travellers, cover- 
ing them with the fine powder, but render them ex- 
ceedingly thirsty. Such was my condition, when, way- 
worn and weary, the orders were spoken to halt and 
prepare to camp. We had arrived at the borders of a 
salt lagoon, which was filled with wild fowl. The con- 
fused sounds that came from hundreds of ducks, teals, 
loons, white cranes, sand-pipers, and plovers, made it 
a second Babel. Around the borders of the lake the 
soil was white with saline matter, and covered with 
the footprints of the bizcacha, and I observed that the 
grass was trodden down into little paths leading from 
their burrows to the water. 

Our last cow had been eaten, and we had already 
fasted twenty-four hours, when we prepared to camp, 
and I was only too glad when the directions were 
given to slaughter an ox; and, judging by the alacrity 



SCENES ON THE PAMPAS. 129 

with which the men set about executing their orders, 
they were as glad as myself of the prospect of break- 
ing their fast. 

The animal was thrown down and butchered; its 
blood was allowed to run into a hole dug for the pur- 
pose, and suffered to clot, when it was placed in a 
bladder, and suspended from the roof of a cart, to be 
kept for the purpose of coloring the handles of the 
small goads — the picanos chicos — of the drivers. 
While a portion of the men were attending to this 
work, others were engaged in caring for their cattle, 
and others were lighting a fire, which, as other fuel was 
not to be had, was made of the argols of cattle. Soon 
huge pieces of the meat were steaming and crackling 
before the heat, and before darkness had completely 
enveloped us, we were luxuriating on fresh beef and 
some mates. 

Supper over, we took refuge in the carts, and although 
the noise of the wild fowl on the lake was continued, 
which to my ears was a very sweet music, I confess I 
was soon asleep. 

On the next morning, bright and early, we again 
took up our march, and through that day and the next 
pushed on over the plains. 

From the hamlet of Saladillo, sixty miles westward, 
we met but two or three huts and a few salt lagoons. 
Near one of the latter, six black-necked swans flew 
over my head, and I noticed many other fowls that 
are common in North America, such as the stilt, green- 
winged teal, pin-tailed duck, and the great blue heron. 
The road was everywhere covered with saline matter, 
9 



130 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

and the reflection of the sun's rays upon it was pain- 
ful to the sight. 

As we passed a mud hut near one of the lagoons, a 
woman came out to sell melons and pumpkins. I vis- 
ited the hut, but, although it was far neater than the 
majority of ranchos on the pampas, it was a miserable 
place to live in, for the fleas and chinchas were far too 
numerous for comfort. The hut was twelve feet long 
and seven feet high ; it was a mere framework of sticks 
lashed together with strips of hide, and covered with 
cornstalks, reeds, and mud. It contained two beds 
propped against the wall; three or four bottles, a 
couple of spoons, and an iron kettle with the mate, 
were the contents of one corner, and the only furni- 
ture the cabin contained. I noticed long strings of 
sliced pumpkins drying in the sun; these vegetables 
keep many poor peons from starving during the winter 
time. They are very generally grown, and are used 
throughout the country. 

The woman appeared to be frugal and industrious, 
for she had . cultivated a large patch of melons, and 
raised numerous families of hens, turkeys, and mus- 
covy ducks. And I would remark, in passing, that 
this woman was not an exception, as regards general 
fitness for the duties of life, to her sex throughout the 
republic ; indeed, they seem better fitted to act in any 
responsible position, or attend to any duty, than the 
men ; for of the large class called chinos (pronounced 
cheenows), produced by intermarriage of the Spanish 
and Indians, that cover the pampas, and compose the 
lower classes in the more civilized towns, the women 
are the most energetic and faithful. 



AN UGLY WOMAN. 131 

Our march for several days was monotonous and 
eventless. Late in the afternoon of Tuesday, April 
10, we camped on the open plain, one mile distant 
from the little town of Punta del Sauce (Willow 
Point), so called from the scattered willows around it. 
It contains between two and three hundred inhabi- 
tants, as Don Jose informed me. The people must 
have been sharp-sighted, for we had hardly come in 
sight of the place before we saw the townsfolk ap- 
proaching us. 

Among the many visitors was one that very particu- 
larly attracted my attention, and for some minutes 
puzzled me to decide as to which sex it belonged. It 
was astride a one-eared donkey, which it halted before 
our party, without dismounting. While this person 
conversed with the patron in gutturals, I had a fair 
opportunity to survey its ugly features and shapeless 
form. The head was enormous, and the hair stuck 
out in every direction in wiry curls. The swarthy 
face, huge lips, and large bright eyes showed that the 
negro blood prevailed over the Indian. What added 
still more to its ferocious expression was the long, pro- 
jecting incisors, which, when the creature spoke, caused 
it to resemble a wild beast more than a human being. 
It wore a calico tunic, unbuttoned behind, from the 
skirts of which protruded a thick pair of round legs, 
that drummed the sides of the jackass, in lieu of whip 
or spur. When Don Jose informed me that it was 
una senorita (a woman), I uttered an exclamation of 
surprise. But I had not seen all the beauties, for dur- 
ing the remainder of our journey we fell in with sev- 
eral others, counterparts of this woman, and, if possi- 



132 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ble, still more ugly and disagreeable. During our stay 
at Punta del Sauce, several young women (half Indian) 
brought a poor quality of salt to sell, together with 
cheese and melons. I gave an old Indian, who was 
one of our drivers, and who had on several occasions 
shown me a kindness, a pound of the best salt that I 
could procure. After tasting it, he put it carefully 
aside, perhaps with the intention of selling it, as he 
did not use any on the road. While the patron y s back 
was turned, Don Facundo, my cook and attendant, 
sold my meat to a woman of the village for a few ears 
of corn ; but, as I did not understand his Quichua lan- 
guage, it was useless for me to remonstrate. The don, 
with his messmates, feasted upon their new dish with- 
out extending an invitation to its should-be rightful 
owner, who was obliged to fast for the next thirty-six 
hours. The rascals told Don Jose some lie to account 
for the loss of my meat, and that was the last of it. 

Again we took up our line of march. On the next 
day we came again to the river, and I noticed that its 
banks were in some places perforated with the burrows 
or holes of parrots. In this place the water was clear, 
and I did not notice any saline deposit upon its banks. 

The woman in our caravan, of whom I have spoken 
before, on this day fell and drove a splinter into her 
foot ; and, as she could not extract it, I offered my ser- 
vices as medico. As I was successful, she seemed 
overwhelmed with gratitude, and from that time she 
was almost the only friend that I had among the people 
of the troop. 

During our journey on this day, as they were riding 
along, the patron and capatoz entered upon a geograph- 



LA REDUCCION. 133 

ical discussion, and as their opinions differed widely, 
they called upon me to decide between them; but as 
Don Jose had the reputation of a great scholar among 
his men, I did not dare to give him any opinion of my 
own, and they went on in the same tone as before. 

" Where is Bostron ? " asked the capatoz. 

" Bostron is in France, to be sure," replied the other. 

" That cannot be, because France is a great way off, 
and has not got any moon ; and the gringo told me, 
the other night, that there is a moon in Bostron, and 
North America is in the same place." 

" Fool ! " exclaimed the scholar, " North America is 
in England, the country where the gringos live that 
tried to take Buenos Ayres." 

Each was confident that he was right, and, believing 
that 

" Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise," 

I left them to themselves. 

The caravan dragged on its weary pace ; at length, 
as darkness came on, the peons, looking out of their 
wagons, shouted, as they pointed ahead of us, " La Re- 
duction ! " " Reduction ! " 

Soon we drew near the town, which lay surrounded 
with fields of corn. As we approached the place, old 
women and young people came out to meet us, bring- 
ing soft cheese, salt, and unripe melons for sale. When 
we reached the outskirts, Don Jose wheeled his mule 
and dismounted ; each peon cried " Sh-u-u-ah ! " to his 
oxen, and the tired caravan halted for the night. On 
the next morning we again took up the march, and 
made considerable progress before sunrise; but the 



134 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

wind from the north soon came laden with a most 
torrid heat, and we were obliged to come to a pause, 
luckily close beside a river, the valley of which was 
filled with tall flags and willows. The water was very 
clear, and ran over a bed of sand, filled with scales 
of mica and quartz. 

At dusk we prepared to cross the stream (the Rio 
Quarto) at Paso Duranzo (Peach Pass). At this ford 
the river, which was very wide and shallow, has a 
swift current and a stony bed. We intended to spend 
the night on the opposite side, so that we could have 
a fair start next day. The men stripped themselves, 
and stood in a line from one bank to the other. As 
each cart was drawn slowly past by the oxen, the cruel 
fellows goaded them until the blood trickled from the 
punctures, at the same time yelling loud enough to be 
heard a mile at least. Beyond the river was a hill 
covered with bushes, and called by the natives San 
Bernardo, and to the right of the road a small collec- 
tion of ranchos surrounded by patches of corn. 

From the summit of San Bernardo I caught sight 
of the distant tops of the Cerro Moro, resembling a 
silver cloud in the clear heavens. During the evening 
we occupied ourselves in drawing trunks of trees from 
the river valley, and lashing them to the outside of the 
carts, and in filling the jars behind the carts with water, 
preparatory to a dry march. 

While we were at supper, three pampa Indian women 
passed the camp. Two were very masculine in appear- 
ance, the third young and handsome. They were 
dressed in loose gowns. As they passed they smiled, 
apparently at the consternation their appearance pro- 



indiaist womeist. 135 

duced among the peons, who seemed ready to sink 
into the ground with fear at the presence of supposed 
spies. The women were from the pampas, and were 
on their way to the village of Rio Quarto. The ex- 
citement which their advent created among our people 
was a long time in being lulled, and even when I sought 
my bed in the cart I heard the eager and animated 
voices of the peons, who were busily engaged in pre- 
paring for an onslaught from the dreaded savages. 



136 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FROM RIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO. 

ON Saturday, April 14, we unlashed our oxen 
before Rio Quarto. All along the road the 
patron and capatoz had spoken of this village, which 
they described as being very beautiful, filled with fine 
white-washed houses, and inhabited by a wealthy class 
of people, many of whom owned thousands of cattle 
which were pastured upon estancias outside the vil- 
lage. Besides, it was here that the great Indian bat- 
tles had taken place : both the gentlemen failed to 
inform me that the Indians were generally the victors, 
not the Cristianos, as they called the citizens of the 
village. 

The woman, with her two children, who had trav- 
elled with us, set out for a visit to the village, and, 
bent upon exploring the place, I accompanied them. 

Rio Quarto is situated upon a plain, and differs but 
little in its general appearance from the other towns. 
It is laid out in a regular manner, and is shut in by a 
mud wall two or three feet in thickness, and five or 
more in height. The wall is surrounded by a broad 
trench about four feet deep, which serves as a defence 
against the Indians. It was hard for me at first to 
understand the value of this dry ditch; but I learned 



RIO QUARTO. 137 

afterwards that no more formidable defence was need- 
ed against an attack from the savages; for, during 
engagements, they never leave the backs of their 
horses, and as they cannot leap the ditches, nor scram 
ble out of them when in, they avoid the obstacles with 
care. 

At the time of our visit to Rio Quarto, there was no 
little commotion among the people ; for news had been 
received of a projected Indian attack, and the news 
seemed to be confirmed by the recent intelligence that 
the savages had drawn off from other places, and were 
concentrating near the town. 

The garrison had been reenforced by soldiers sent by 
the governor of the province. These troops, in their 
ignorance and alarm, had loaded an old iron gun in a 
most singular manner ; for they had first put in several 
pounds of lead balls and slugs, then rammed in a 
heavy wadding, and finally charged with powder. I 
judged from their manner of loading cannons, that 
their efficiency as soldiers, should an attack be made, 
would prove of little value. 

The houses of Rio Quarto are built of mud, and 
thatched with dry grass; the streets are of mud, the 
walls are of mud, and the ideas of the people are 
muddy thick. They seem merely to exist, rather than 
live with any idea of what living is. The few rich men 
of the village own the cattle that feed in the surround- 
ing country, while the poorer classes support them- 
selves as best they can, living on a meagre diet of 
pumpkins, peaches, corn, and rarely, meat. They some- 
times labor for their wealthier townspeople, but usually 
sleep the time away. All the persons that I met were 



138 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

squalid in appearance, and the children were half 
naked. 

The gardens about the town contained but little 
more than quince or peach trees. At the corners of 
the streets were filthy pulperias (small shops), and the 
only decent building in town was the church in the 
plaza, which was surmounted by a dome, steeple, and 
cross. On the side of the building, in place of win- 
dows, hemispherical holes were cut, and covered with 
muslin ; in fact, the only glass that I saw was in the 
two or three street lamps. As it was Saturday, the 
vigilantes were sweeping the plaza with a large hide, 
attached to the surcingle of a horse Vhich was driven 
around the square. 

Having fasted since the day before, I purchased 
some bread made in the place, and shared it with my 
companions. It was poor in quality, and contained no 
small amount of sand and sticks. The flour had been 
brought on mules from Mendoza, three hundred and 
eighty miles distant, and bread was something of a 
luxury in Rio Quarto. 

After quite a stay, nearly a day in length, we left 
Rio Quarto. Our route lay over an undulating pampa, 
covered with long grass, but scarcely a herd of cattle 
could be seen, and for miles we met with no evidence 
that human beings inhabited the country. Water was 
seldom found, but the small quantities that we dis- 
covered lay in little hollows of two or three inches in 
depth, and was of a better quality than any that we 
had met with on the road. 

The herdsmen are extremely dirty in their habits, 
and those who performed the duty of drivers in our 



A LUXURY. 139 

caravan were particularly filthy; many of them, in- 
deed, showed no token of ablutions performed for 
many weeks. 

While the troop halted to rest the oxen close by a 
pool of water, I could not resist the temptation to 
bathe, and, stripping myself, enjoyed the luxury of a 
good bath, which had been denied me for more than a 
fortnight. I then washed my linen, and returned to 
the men who were sitting around the fire, solacing 
themselves with a round of mates. They laughed 
heartily at my ideas of cleanliness, and asked, through 
Don Manuel, my interpreter, what opinion I had formed 
of themselves, who could cross the pampas and return 
again — a journey of eighty days — without once ap- 
plying water to their skins. I replied that it was my 
opinion that they were very dirty fellows, and suited 
for the country in which they lived. At this answer 
they again laughed, and replied that white skins, like 
those of all foreigners, were exceedingly inconvenient, 
because of the great attention required for retaining 
its color. 

The next day was Sunday, but the caravan kept on 
its way as usual. 

Throughout the whole day the sun poured down its 
scorching rays, and the hot wind from the north was 
accompanied by myriads of mosquitos and minute 
black flies. 

We had nothing left of the ox that had been finished 
the day before, save the head, which had hung upon 
the outside of one of the carts for four days, and was 
in a decomposed state. The sight of the filthy cra- 
nium caused me to wonder why it was not' thrown 



140 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

away, for I never dreamed that it was intended for 
any use ; but it was not to be wasted. 

We had not eaten anything since the morning of 
the previous day ; but at noon a halt was ordered, a 
quantity of dried argols of cattle were collected, a fire 
was kindled with flint and steel, which the herdsman 
always carries in his belt, and an old iron kettle, be- 
longing to one of the carts, was partly filled with 
water, and placed above the coals. When it w r as 
properly adjusted, the men piled the dry dung around 
the bottom so as to retain the heat beneath it, and 
soon the water was bubbling and beginning to boil. 
The old and decomposed head of the ox was now 
brought to the fire. Its contents — the brains, &c. — 
were scooped out, and thrown into the pot, and with 
the addition of a little salt the stew was complete. At 
any other time the sight of such a mess would have 
disgusted me, but things were changed now, and, faint 
with hunger, I watched the boiling of the stew with 
no little interest. 

At last Facundo, the cook, who had stood beside 
the kettle during the whole time, and had occasionally 
tasted the dish with his horn spoon, and as often had 
declared it " excellent," summoned the party to dinner. 
I remember well that I scrambled with the others to 
get at it, but I only procured a very small portion, 
which I was obliged to swallow so hot that I scalded 
my tongue severely. 

The meal was finished in a much shorter time than 
I have occupied in describing it, and soon each driver 
hurried off to lasso his oxen, which they lashed to the 
yokes, and we were again in motion. 



A STUBBORN COW. 141 

About three o'clock we drew up beside some rough 
hummocks of earth to feed the cattle; the country was 
more undulating, and was here covered with wire- 
grass, which the cattle at once began to feed upon. I 
had here a first view of the Sierra of Cordova, the 
boundary line of the provinces of Cordova and San 
Luis. 

The patron had purchased an old cow a few days 
before at San Bernardo, and having stinted the men 
as long as possible, he now decided to kill her. This 
was no easy matter, for the cow was as stubborn and 
furious as any bull, and had only been kept manage- 
able by attaching her by a strap of hide to another 
animal equally fierce and ungovernable. These two 
animals had required particular care to prevent them 
from straying from the troop. 

The strap that bound the two brutes together was 
cut asunder, and Don Manuel, the best gaucho of the 
party, set off in full chase of the doomed cow, swing- 
ing the lasso above his head, and urging on his horse 
by repeated applications of the enormous spurs that 
adorned his heels. When within eight or ten yards 
of the animal, the valiant don, with a fiercely uttered 
ca-jo, let fly the lasso, and at the same time wheeled 
his horse. 

The cow, continuing on her headlong course, was 
suddenly brought up by the fatal noose tightening 
around her neck, and she went tumbling to the 
ground. 

It was a wonder to me that the fall did not break 
her neck. She arose', bewildered, to her feet, and for 
an instant paused ; but quickly divining the cause of 



142 A THOUSAND MILES WALK. 

her entrapment, she lowered her head, and made a run 
at the don and his horse; but the little animal that 
he bestrode having been well trained, was in a gallop 
before the cow drew near, and the lasso kept as tight 
as ever. The victim now uttered a loud bellow, and 
charged blindly at one of the cart-wheels : the force 
of the shock with which she struck rendered her wild 
with rage. She bellowed until the tightened noose 
choked all utterance, when she renewed her charges 
upon the men, horses, and carts. The patron now 
called loudly upon Maistro Ramon, one of the leading 
men, and, mounting his mule, Maistro galloped to the 
rescue. 

The cow stood at bay, tossing up the earth with her 
nose, and stamping wrathfully with her hoofs ; but 
her new assailant was a skilful gaucho. He started 
her, and threw his noose around one of her hind legs, 
when, galloping in opposite directions, the two men 
tripped the animal up, and stretched her upon the 
ground. 

One of the peons fastened her four hoofs together 
with a piece of hide, and another man officiated as 
butcher. With his long knife he despatched her, and 
in half an hour she was skinned, cut up, and divided 
among the carts. When the meat was cooked I ate a 
moderate-sized piece, and strolled away from the men, 
who were gormandizing beside the fires, to watch the 
curious feast that the birds of prey were making upon 
the refuse parts of the cow. 

Whether some of the birds of prey discover their 
food by means of sight or scent, has long been an un- 
settled question, some naturalists affirming that the 



HABITS OF THE CARACARA EAGLE. 143 

former sense is their principal guide, and others that 
the latter is the only one. 

Audubon, in his Ornithological Biography, gives some 
accounts of interesting experiments that he made with 
the turkey-buzzard, proving that this bird is attracted 
only by the organs of vision to its food. Other writers 
have offered other observations, corroborative of Au- 
dubon's position. And I would here present a fact 
that came to my observation, concerning one of the 
most common South American birds, helping to show 
that Audubon was correct in his opinion. 

Before the cow was butchered, I searched the plain, 
but not a single caracara {JPolyborus Brasiliensis), the 
well-known carrion-lover of the pampas, was visible. 
There was no wind stirring, and had there been, the 
scent of the fresh offal of the cow could certainly not 
have been carried to any distance. But the cow had 
hardly been butchered w r hen a single caracara was seen 
on the horizon. He had hardly alighted beside the 
offal when another and another were distinguished, 
coming in the path of the first. For half an hour they 
continued to arrive, all coming from one direction, 
and as one alighted upon the carcass another came in 
view, flying straight to the spot where the others were 
collected. I remained watching them for a long time, 
and when I left there were at least fifty birds on the 
spot, and the line of flight was still unbroken ; each 
new comer being greeted by the others with their in- 
distinct guttural ca-ra-ca-ra ! Now, of course, all these 
birds had not been attracted by the sense of smell, for 
the supposition that the scent of the newly killed ani- 
mal could have travelled miles in a few moments is 
simply preposterous. 



144 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

The birds must have been flying in air, on the look- 
out for food, and, as they are gifted with a most won- 
derful vision, on seeing the first one hurrying in one 
direction, the natural inference must have been — if 
birds draw inferences — that he was hurrying to some- 
thing to eat. The birds nearest him followed him, 
others followed them, and they arrived at the slaugh- 
ter-ground in the order in which they started for it — 
the nearest first, and the farthest last. 

Perhaps a more extended account of the caracara 
will not be uninteresting to the reader. 

The caracaras feed upon anything that comes in 
their way, gleaning carrion like the buzzards, and kill- 
ing other birds like the hawks. I even once saw one 
attack a lamb, but the old dam interfered, and after 
receiving some rebuffs from the bird, succeeded in pro- 
tecting her offspring from her enemy. 

This bird possesses an unenviable reputation as a 
thief among the gauchos, and, as it kills young birds, 
lambs, even seizes the game that the hunter has just 
killed, it is far from being a favorite with any class of 
the people. 

It inhabits an extended geographical range. I have 
seen it in south-western Texas and in most parts of 
South America. This species is the "Mexican Eagle." 
A fine bird, indeed, for the emblem of a nation ! — it is 
emblazoned upon the Mexican flag; but we of the 
North must not be too critical, for we still retain upon 
our banner and coin that selfish thief, the bald-headed 
eagle — the most relentless robber and pirate of our 
rapacious birds. 

The caracara is sometimes found in company with 



THE TURKEY-BUZZARD. 145 

the Gallinazo (Cathartes atratus), also known to the 
people on the Plata as the carrion crow. This latter 
bird is found north of the Rio Negro in various local- 
ities, not being met with except near the rivers and 
damp places, I did not observe them about Buenos 
Ayres, but found them afterwards common dwellers 
about the vicinity of Mendoza, along the bases of the 
Andes. The habits of the turkey-buzzard are so well 
known that I will not dwell further upon them here. 
I have noticed that the species seems to be tamer on 
the southern continent than it is on the northern. It 
has the extended range of one hundred degrees of 
latitude. 

Though somewhat repulsive from the offensive odor 
which it receives from its food, this bird is one of the 
most useful species. As a scavenger and remover of 
decaying animal matter in the tropics it is invaluable, 
and it is properly protected and cared for in many 
cities. 

At noon, April 6, we reached the mountain range 
that had loomed up before us for several -ilays, and 
camped at its base. The sierra terminated in low 
hills, barren and destitute of verdure, save where oc- 
casional clumps of dwarf trees grew about their bases. 
A little rivulet, taking its rise in the mountains, flowed 
down through a deep fissure in the soil, and afforded 
good water for the cattle. 

We remained at this comfortable camp through the 
remainder of the day and night, but started early the 
next morning. 

The monotony of our journey was disturbed by the 
arrival and passing of a troop of sixty mules loaded 
10 



146 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

with little barrels of sugar and hide bales of yerba 
(tea). This troop was driven by six men, and was 
bound to Mendoza. Like similar parties, the troop 
was headed by an old mare carrying a bell, the sound 
of which keeps the animals from straying away. 

Though the mule is a stubborn creature, it has a 
very strong affection for the madrina, as the mare is 
called, and follows her like a colt. I have often watched 
two large troops approaching each other from opposite 
directions, in some place where the road was very 
narrow, as in a mountain defile, and have been sur- 
prised to witness the absence of all bewilderment on 
the part of the animals. Though both troops were 
crowded together, each mule kept with his own party, 
and followed the sound of the madrinats bell, even in 
the darkest night. 

Having wound around the point of a sierra, our 
caravan kept on until dusk, when we camped for the 
night, supping upon beef and four armadillos, which 
the peons had caught during the day in the grass. 

The armadillo is a singular animal, both in appear- 
ance and mode of living. Four species are found upon 
the pampas. In Buenos Ayres they are known by the 
general name of peluda. Darwin applies this term to 
a particular species — Dasypus villosus. 

The gauchos call the female armadillo Mulita^ which 
name Darwin uses to distinguish a separate species. 
The male is called Cinquizcho. 

As my readers doubtless are aware, the body of the 
animal is protected by a coat of hard scales, consisting 
of several divisions, adapted to the locomotion of the 
animal. Its head is pointed, and is scantily clothed 



ARMADILLOS. 147 

with little tufts of hair which grow out between the 
scales. The feet and legs are short, giving the animal, 
when walking, a waddling gait, similar to that of the 
tortoise. The toe nails are sharp, and admirably shaped 
for rapid burrowing in the ground. 

All the armadillos, with the exception of one species, 
which is nocturnal in its habits, are diurnal, retiring to 
their burrows at dusk, and coming forth at dawn to 
feed upon the roots of grass, insects, worms, &c. 

Their burrows do not exceed eight feet in depth. 
In these retreats the female brings forth four or five 
young, which follow her, soon after birth, in her jour- 
neyings upon the plains. When man approaches them, 
if near a burrow, they retire into it ; but when they 
are distant from home they endeavor to hide in the 
grass until all danger is past. While in most locali- 
ties these animals were found, to the south of Rosario 
and Mendoza they were very numerous. The females 
of one species that I frequently met had two mammae. 
I think the others had four or six. 

The flesh of the armadillo is white and delicate, and 
has the flavor of young pork. The peons cook the 
animal by dividing the two shells at the junction, and 
burying the whole in hot ashes and coals, and allow- 
ing it to bake until thoroughly done. 

Darwin, in his account of these animals, says that 
three species of armadillos are found in this country, 
while a fourth species, the Mulita, does not come as 
far south as Bahia Blanca. Of these first mentioned 
are the Dasypits minutus, or Pichy ; the D. villosus, or 
Peludo; and the D. apar, or Mataco. The Pichy is 
found several hundred miles farther south than any 
species. 



148 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

The Apar, commonly called mataco, is remarkable by 
having only three movable bands, the rest of its tes- 
sellated covering being nearly inflexible. It has the 
power of rolling itself into a perfect sphere, like one 
kind of English wood-louse. In this state it is safe 
from the attack of dogs ; for the dog, not being able to 
take the whole in its mouth, tries to bite one side, and 
the ball slips away. The smooth, hard covering of the 
mataco offers a better defence than the short spines of 
the hedgehog. The pichy prefers a very dry soil, and 
the sand plains near the coast, where for many 
months it cannot taste water, are its favorite resort. 
It often tries to escape notice by squatting close to 
the ground. In the course of a day's ride near Bahia 
Blanca several were generally met with. The instant 
one was perceived it was necessary, in order to catch 
it, almost to tumble off one's horse, for in the soft soil 
the animal burrowed so quickly that its hinder quar- 
ters would almost disappear before we could alight. 
It seems almost a pity to kill such nice little animals ; 
for, as a gaucho said, while sharpening his knife on the 
back of one (the gauchos often use a portion of the 
armadillo's armor for a knife hone), "Son tan mansoo" 
(they are so quiet). 

Another writer informs us that the armadillos " bur- 
row to the extent of thirteen or fourteen feet, descend- 
ing in an abruptly sloping direction for some three or 
four feet, then taking a sudden bend, and inclining 
slightly upward. Much of their food is procured be- 
neath the surface of the earth. They possess carniv- 
orous tastes, and feed upon dead cattle, insects, snails, 
snakes, as well as upon roots. The giant armadillo, 



ARMADILLOS. 149 

according to one writer, digs up dead bodies in the 
burial grounds." 

" When hunting these animals," says Waterton, 
" the first point is to ascertain if the inhabitant of the 
burrow is at home, which is discovered by pushing a 
stick into each hole, and watching for the egress of 
mosquitos. If any come out, the armadillo is in his 
hole. A long rod is thrust into the burrow in order to 
learn its direction, and a hole is dug in the ground to 
meet the end of the stick. A fresh departure is taken 
from that point, the rod is again introduced, and by 
dint of laborious digging the animal is at last captured. 
Meanwhile the armadillo is not idle, but continues to 
burrow in the sand in the hopes of escaping its perse- 
cutors. It cannot, however, dig so fast as they can, 
and is at last obliged to yield." 

While we were lying behind the fire, after supper, a 
loud, creaking noise in the distance announced the ap- 
proach of a caravan from Mendoza. As it drew near 
our dogs commenced barking, and were answered by 
the mule of the captain of the caravan with a loud 
bray. While the concert continued, other mules and 
asses took up the strain, and our camp was "vocal 
with melodious sounds " as the caravan came in sight. 
As they passed I counted sixteen wagons heavily laden 
with cargoes of hides. 

A fresh breeze from the east was springing up as I 
lay down on my hide amid dogs and sleeping natives, 
and as I dozed away, it seemed difficult to decide 
which of the two was the most agreeable bedfellow ; 
for as it grew colder, and a sharp frost came on, one 
dirty fellow crowded me off my hide, and a still moro 



150 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

filthy dog, covered with fleas, crept under my blanket, 
from the shelter of which no moderate effort of mine 
could remove him. At last, becoming desperate amid 
dirt and flea-bites, I dislodged the intruder by a kick 
sharp enough to cause him to cry out, and arouse his 
master Facundo, who waxed exceedingly wrathful at 
such demonstrations on his dog by a " gringo." 

Early the next morning the caravan was on the 
march, and for an hour our course led over high hills 
and across one small stream that flowed from the sierra 
behind us. After crossing these hills I observed be- 
yond, along the bases of some low mountains, a few 
fields of corn and a number of mud huts, where dwelt, 
in all their indolence, a party of natives — half Indians, 
half Spanish, or Christians, as Don Manuel called all 
his countrymen on the pampas. 

As our troop trudged slowly along, some fifteen men, 
women, and children followed in our track, offering to 
sell corn, soft cheese, and a few loaves of bread, very 
small, and containing a goodly proportion of sand. 
These loaves had not been baked in the ashes after the 
more primitive fashion of the country still practised in 
many parts, but in Egyptian-shaped ovens, built of 
adobes (sun-dried bricks), and plastered within and 
without with mud. I purchased a sample of the bread, 
which proved even tougher than the meat of the old 
cow, and was not half as clean ; but being a new arti- 
cle of food to us, it proved a luxury not to be despised. 
One woman, who exchanged corn with the drivers for 
meat, presented me with nine ears of the corn. Know- 
ing from the experiences of the journey, that after a 
feast comes a fast, I hid the corn inside a pair of boots 



FRESH RUMORS. 151 

among the rest of my baggage in one of the wagons, 
and felt well armed against the hungry time that was 
sure to follow. 

An hour later the caravan halted. While the cattle 
were grazing, overpowered by the long walk under a 
hot sun, I lay down to take a short siesta, from which, 
on awakening, I discovered that somebody had carried 
off my little stock of food. 

From this occurrence I never afterwards stored food, 
but ate whatever came into my possession. 

At dusk two well-dressed travellers, who proved to 
be Frenchmen, came up to our encampment, and made 
inquiries regarding the road. They reported that seri- 
ous trouble had occurred near San Luis among the 
farmers, the Indians having cut the throats of fourteen 
persons! This intelligence caused much speculation 
among the drivers, and, as before, a general gloom per- 
vaded the whole company. 

As soon as everything was arranged in camp for 
any emergencies that might occur, I rolled myself up 
in my blanket, and soon forgot all troubles in sleep. 



152 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK 



CHAPTER X. 
FROM EIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO— CONTINUED. 

WHILE all around me seemed to offer danger in 
some form, I grew lighter at heart every day 
that we further penetrated the country, for everything 
was novel and captivating to the fancy. I was at last 
among a strange people, and their habits and mode of 
life, and the many incidents that were constantly oc- 
curring, were full of interest to me. Although my 
heart was light, and I trudged along cheerfully and 
with courage, my companions in the caravan were but 
little calculated to make the trip a pleasant one ; and I 
must say that they did not try to change their evi- 
dently disagreeable nature. 

The rations I received from the tall Santia gueno, 
my " protector and firm friend," were selected from the 
toughest and driest portions of the meat, while he de- 
voured my living, and at the same time, at meals, called 
the attention of the whole company to the unsuccessful 
attempts I made at mastication. 

At times, when indignation caused me to reply in no 
gentle terms to their conduct, in a tongue different 
from theirs, I perceived my folly, for it only served 
to draw out more jibes and greater insults from the 
fellows. 



DISAGREEABLE COMPANIONS. 153 

When we were in motion, to avoid uncongenial com- 
pany, I started in advance of the troop, and kept far 
ahead of it. Sometimes I improved these opportuni- 
ties to brood over the ill-treatment of the men ; but at 
sight of a wild animal, or a gaucho pursuing a colt 
across the plains, an instant revival of my spirits took 
place, and my whole senses were awakened to things 
around me. 

I usually had enough to occupy my mind ; sometimes 
I was studying the habits of birds or insects, at others 
following with my eyes the movements of a herd of 
cattle, or gazing upon the mirage in the distant horizon, 
in which our caravan was reflected with wonderful dis- 
tinctness. 

I have said that the peons had not treated me with 
great friendliness lately ; but since we left Rio Quarto 
their coolness grew more noticeable, and at length I 
began to fear that we should not part without a col- 
lision, in which case I knew I could depend on but two 
people in the whole caravan, the old Indian and the 
woman spoken of in a preceding chapter. 

These two had always treated me kindly, while all 
the others had given me uneasiness in some way or 
other. 

Before the troop had left Rosario, my friend, Senor 
G., cautioned me against showing money, and I had 
followed his advice, having departed from it only on 
one or two occasions. When near Rio Quarto, not 
wishing to be thought penurious, I had imprudently 
purchased more than my share of the pumpkins and 
melons, which served to regale the peons at night, 
when collected around the camp-fires; and this had 



154 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

caused the ignorant fellows to suppose that there was 
raucha plata (much money) in my possession. And 
this was the cause of their ill-feeling towards me. 

Several times they were particularly anxious to know 
if I had friends in Mendoza, and who were the persons 
that would receive me on the arrival of the troop in 
that town. I at last found it necessary to introduce to 
their consideration a character as new to myself as he 
was to them. One night, when we were lying around 
the fires, I, after describing my home and friends, 
casually remarked that one of them, a medico, the dis- 
tinguished Dr. Carmel, of Mendoza, was anxiously 
awaiting my arrival, and that his apprehensions for my 
safety would increase until I reached the town. 

To the reader whose conscience has never been sub- 
jected to violence, this subterfuge may appear unmanly ; 
but, in justice to myself, I was obliged thus to impose 
upon the peons, and the result fully proved it. 

Under Dr. Carmel's strong (prospective) arm and 
influence I found more peaceful hours, and suffered 
less from annoyance than if his name had never been 
mentioned, or if the villanous fellows had been left in 
their first belief, which at the same time was correct, 
that I was a friendless gringo, to whom they might 
offer any insult without fear of punishment. In. what 
manner was I, a solitary stripling, to protect myself 
against more than a score of barbarians, in the very 
heart of a country to the languages and localities Gf 
which I was a total stranger, unless by subterfuge ? 

But my troubles were not yet over. 

While walking, as usual, one day, in advance of the 
carts, which came slowly creaking behind, my attention 



TROUBLE BREWING. 155 

was directed to Juan, the little son of my female friend, 
who came running after me. Juan spoke only broken 
Spanish ; but upon reaching my side he commenced a 
voluble discourse, which, however, I gave little notice 
to, supposing it to be merely childish prattle. At 
length the boy took my hand, and demanded my at- 
tention. 

From what he said, I could, indeed, glean but little ; 
but it was enough to confirm my suspicions, which I 
had had for some time, that some rascality was being 
planned by the drivers. From mispronounced words 
and broken sentences, I received warning not to eat 
with the capatoz at the fire, — " Sta malo no come con 
el? — and to be cautious when with the men. Juan 
said that his mother had sent him to tell me this. The 
little fellow was about to communicate something fur- 
ther regarding his mother, when he suddenly became 
silent, and squeezed my hand. I looked around, and 
beheld Chico, the servant of the capatoz^ close upon 
our heels; he had stealthily approached, without at- 
tracting our notice. 

" Why do you walk ? " interrogated little Juan. 

To this question the swarthy Chico, half Indian, half 
negro, made no answer ; but he uttered a sly laugh, 
that meant a good deal. We walked on for upwards 
of an hour, during which time the half-breed kept close 
behind us. 

Watching favorable opportunities, Juan informed 
me that the capatoz had sent his servant to prevent us 
from conversing; and seeing that he was determined to 
remain by us, I at length, with the boy, rejoined the 
troop. 



156 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

When the caravan halted for the night, I walked 
over to the fire where the China woman was seated ; 
but two or three gauchos from our own fire followed 
me, and engaged the woman in conversation. 

In the aspect of affairs now, I confess I was some- 
what alarmed, and more than ever felt the want of a 
companion on whom I could depend. The words of a 
foreign merchant, with whom I had conversed in Bue- 
nos Ayres, w T ere recalled most forcibly to me. "My 
boy," he said, " you don't know whither you are going. 
When you get among the gauchos, you will find much 
trouble and danger." And I acknowledge that I now 
felt he spoke the truth. 

The men still kept the woman aloof from me. I de- 
termined to take things coolly, and await events. 

Don Manuel came to the fire late in the evening, 
and, taking his meat in his hand, galloped off in the 
dark to see to the cattle. I now missed Don Jose, the 
patron, whose protecting arm was to be my support in 
danger. On inquiring of Facundo, my cook, he pointed 
off into the gloom, and uttered the Spanish word " JSJs- 
tancia" by which I understood that the patron was at 
some one of the great cattle-farms lying off the road. 

I now felt that I was unprotected, indeed; and when 
the hour arrived for our lying down to sleep, I was un- 
certain as to whether or not I should remain unmo- 
lested through the night. But the time for the attempt 
on my purse, if not life, had evidently not arrived. I 
was permitted to fall asleep, which I did at last ; and 
our whole party evidently accompanied me in my visit 
to the land of dreams, for nothing was heard among 
us, and no one moved (if they had I would have been 
awakened in an instant) until daybreak. 



POISONED. 157 

When the sun was just appearing above the horizon, 
the capatoz came galloping up to the carts, and soon 
the word was spoken to get up the oxen and mules, 
and prepare to start. 

I remained in the cart to write in my journal until 
the ugly-visaged Facundo appeared to inform me that 
my breakfast was ready. As I approached the group 
that was huddled about the fire, not one of them 
deigned to notice me, save one big fellow, who, with 
an obsequiousness that I knew to be assumed, pointed 
to the breakfast. 

The strips of meat had been removed from the fire, 
and the spit, in a separate piece, was stuck into the 
ground, waiting for me. This was an unusual attention, 
for I generally shared my meat with the capatoz, or 
with Facundo. The capatoz sat smoking by the fire, 
but the patron had not yet returned from the estancia. 
I offered my steak to Don Manuel ; but he courteously 
declined, appearing to lack appetite. He refused a 
second similar offer, and continued smoking. 

Determined not to be balked by him, as I wished to 
prove my suspicions that mischief was afoot, I informed 
him that he lacked politeness, and that I would not 
eat without him. The effect of my words upon the 
company was of such a character that I could no longer 
doubt their intentions. 

At length Don Manuel, seeing that I suspected some- 
thing, cut off from the extreme edge of the steak a 
mouthful or two, and ate it, upon which I cut from the 
opposite side a little larger piece, and ate it leisurely. 
I then cut off another piece, and, pretending to eat it 
on the way, left the party, and retired to the cart to 



158 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK 

finish my writing, throwing the meat in the grass on 
the way. 

Fifteen or twenty minutes passed, at the end of 
which time I was compelled to put aside paper and 
pen, for a strange sensation of weakness came upon 
me, rendering me unable to move — a helpless prisoner 
in the cart. 

Violent pains, that racked my head, were followed 
by strong vomitive symptoms ; but I was still helpless. 

While the oxen were being harnessed, I made a 
second effort to leave the cart, but I could not rise. 
Soon the villanous Facundo entered, and, bidding me, 
in no gentle tones, to keep quiet, and not kick around, 
he started his oxen, and, with the rest of the caravan, 
we were again in motion. 

I soon fell into a delightful sleep, and dreamed most 
pleasant dreams. At one moment I was moving 
through the air, light, free from human bonds, a very 
spirit; my whole senses were intoxicated with most 
delicious sensations. Again I beheld most beautiful 
visions and most gorgeous colors. At last I seemed 
to have been transported back to my native village, 
and kind friends were grouped around me. The voice 
of welcome greeted me, all trouble seemed ended. A 
clear, sweet voice sang a well-remembered song, which 
seemed to be the very essence of melody, so ravish- 
ingly did it fall upon my ear. 

Gradually the voice grew indistinct, then loud and 
harsh, and I returned to consciousness to recognize the 
tones of Facundo, who was singing to himself. His 
discordant words were uttered in a long-drawn cadence, 
commencing in a low, mournful strain, and ending with 
a couplet and groans. 



AN ANTIDOTE. 159 

The following syllables will give an idea of his song. 
They were repeated so many times that I shall hardly 
forget them : — 

" Que pur ma no yepe — oh — ah — OUGH. 
Ya, ke, pur, se, va, yah — oh — oh — ah — OUGH." 

Facundo continued groaning, either for his own 
pleasure or for my discomfort, during the greater part 
of the time that I lay sick in the cart. 

At our first stopping-place, about two hours after 
breakfast, the woman sent me, by little Juan, a tea that 
she had prepared from some herbaceous plant of the 
pampas, to gather which she had walked all the morn- 
ing behind the carts. 

I felt much better after drinking the tea, but did 
not entirely recover from my sudden illness for several 
days. I subsequently learned that it was not unusual 
for the Santia guenos to revenge a fancied insult, or to 
annoy one whom they have a dislike for, by administer- 
ing poison, sometimes in sufficient quantities to de- 
stroy life, and at other times in a quantity sufficient to 
produce only sickness. They had undoubtedly taken 
advantage of the absence of the patron to treat me as 
they did. 

The first time I sallied forth from confinement I was 
received in a characteristic manner by the drivers, who 
clapped their hands to their stomachs, and questioned 
me with impudent gestures if I was not ill, and what 
was the trouble. The good woman only said, compas- 
sionately, "JPobre cito" (poor fellow). 

During my sickness I continued to write daily, much 
to the annoyance of Facundo, who looked threateningly 



160 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

at my notes, as if he suspected his name was there. I 
even went so far as to ask him how he spelt his name, 
which was a useless question enough ; for had he been 
disposed to inform me, he could not, since he knew 
not one letter from another. 

My illness cost me but little time, and I was soon 
able to resume my pedestrian journey, and by night of 
the same day I was nearly well. 

Our journey had been through the day across a hilly 
country. As evening drew near, we reached a water- 
ing-place, which afforded an abundance of feed around 
it, and the caravan was halted, and camp prepared. 

At supper I was cautious to eat only of the food that 
I saw the others partake of, which they observing, I 
noticed that glances and meaning smiles were ex- 
changed among them. 

Early the next morning we were again in motion. 

The country was still broken, and we met several 
deep gullies, which we crossed with great labor, it being 
necessary to attach extra yokes of oxen to the carts to 
effect a passage. One of these gullies was so danger- 
ous, on account of the steepness of its sides, that a pair 
of oxen were fastened behind the cart to prevent it 
from gaining too great a velocity in its descent. 

Near this latter pass was a five by six stone hut, 
roofed with sticks and mud, which served as a post- 
house, where the galloping courier receives his fresh 
horse. Two women, with low foreheads and heavy 
features, came out of the cabin, followed by an old 
man, the postmaster, to stare at us, and inquire if the 
drivers had any sugar or yerba to exchange with them. 
For what articles they proposed to barter I could not 



CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 161 

conceive, as the open side of the hut showed an interior 
destitute of everything like comfort ; for it contained 
only an old hide and bedding, and one cheese, that 
rested upon a swinging shelf made of canes bound to- 
gether with hide thongs. 

Like many of the poor gauchos, the postman smoked 
bad Tucuman tobacco, rolled up in a narrow piece of 
corn-leaf, a material that is preferred by some to the 
coarse linen paper manufactured in Europe for the 
South American market. 

Among the hills that bounded our northern horizon, 
and which some travellers would classify as mountains, 
the wind blows almost constantly with great force from 
various quarters. The smallest of the hills were well 
grassed over, and wherever the ruts entered the soil 
near them it showed a sandy gravel. Upon the plains 
to the south was the richer pasturage, with a soil bet- 
ter fitted for cultivation. 

At night we encamped close by the hamlet of El 
Moro, situated, as I believe, not far from the foot of 
Cerro Moro, a chain of low mountains. 

At daylight the next morning the caravan wound 
down among the hills to a level pampa, with barren 
mountains to the north. 

The Mendoza diligence passed, drawn by six tired 
horses. Besides drawing his share of the weight of the 
carriage, each animal carried upon his back a postilion, 
who did not fail to use whip or spur as necessity de- 
manded. 

The plain that we were upon was covered with im- 
mense piles of decomposed granite, how placed in such 
positions it is difficult to surmise. The thorn and 
11 



162 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

algarroba tree grew abundantly. Our course for the 
remainder of the day continued over the pampa, with 
hills growing more distinct each hour in the distance ; 
a strong wind blew steadily from the Cerro until dark, 
when it died away, and a calm, lovely night succeeded. 
The following day we left the plains, and travelled 
through a hilly country, which gradually became more 
and more irregular as we approached the River Quinto, 
which stream we reached about noon, and halted on its 
banks for dinner. 

The country near the river was sandy, and covered 
with scattered thorn-bushes. The banks of the Quinto, 
at the ford where we camped, were high, and almost 
perpendicular. The bed of the river appeared to be 
formed of quicksand in agitation, and the current was 
very strong. A few mud huts were close to the river 
on each side, and their occupants had a great quantity 
of beef cut in strips, drying for winter use, together 
with sliced pumpkins, which two articles of diet form 
the principal support of the people ; the sterility of the 
soil will not support a healthy crop of corn. 
* Large flocks of parrots, of a species that dig holes in 
the banks in which to deposit their eggs, like our north- 
ern bank swallows (Cotyle riparia), filled the air with 
loud cries, and gave some appearance of life to the 
scene. The town of Rio Quinto was not far off; but 
as the road lay in a different direction, I did not get a 
glimpse of it, but, judging by the few lazy natives that 
I saw, who appeared as if laboring under mental de- 
rangement, with two prominent traits visible, — selfish- 
ness and idleness, — I did not feel that I was losing 
much in not visiting the place. 



BRUTALITY. 163 

Dinner over, we prepared to move. Crossing the 
river, we found the ascent of the opposite bank the 
most difficult to surmount of any obstacle we had met 
on the road; great exertions were made to get the 
carts up the rise, and the oxen were most terribly 
goaded by the drivers. One peon, with loud impreca- 
tions, thrust his goad into an animal so far that it could 
not be withdrawn until the iron was pulled out of the 
goad-stick, when the man caught it, and jerked so 
fiercely, that when it came from the wound the blood 
followed it in a little stream. This exhibition of bru- 
tality afforded satisfaction to the other drivers, who 
laughed at the fellow as he cursed the ox for being the 
cause of the breaking of his new picano. At last we 
were all across the river and in motion. 

The high plain upon the opposite side was covered 
with thorns and algarroba, save here and there some 
spot more fertile than the rest, which sustained a 
growth of coarse grass. In crossing this tract the 
wheels of the carts sank into the deep ruts to the hubs, 
and raised clouds of dust that were almost choking. 

I covered myself with a woollen poncho, for I well 
knew that it was doubtful if an opportunity to bathe 
would again present itself before we reached San Luis, 
the great town of the interior. During the afternoon 
a little boy passed us, driving to his house by the river 
a flock of goats and sheep; the last-named animals 
looked very ragged, from the custom of the people, who 
still adhere to the old practice of pulling out the wool 
from the skin instead of shearing, at such times and in 
such quantities as they need it. 

As the moon was a few days old, the caravan kept 



164 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

on until eight o'clock, when it encamped on the tra- 
vesia. 

The cattle were driven a long distance from the road 
to feed, but no pasturage was to be had, and at about 
one o'clock I was aroused by the approach of the cattle, 
and the loud cries of the drivers, who shouted "Fuera! 
fuera ! " as they drove the teams to the carts. 

The moon had set, and the night was very dark; but 
the necessity of moving at once was obvious, for there 
was no water nor grass to be had for many miles, and 
both must necessarily be obtained at the earliest mo- 
ment for the hungry and thirsty beasts. 

We got under way at once, and travelled by land- 
marks which the drivers were acquainted with. As we f 
moved along the plain, the noise of the caravan aroused 
hundreds of parrots from a roosting-place among the 
branches of a clump of algarrobas. An Indian stam- 
pede could not have created a more confused' or louder 
noise than that of the frightened parrots, as they hov- 
ered over us in a cloud. 



SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. 165 



CHAPTER XL. 

SAN LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. 

WE travelled through the remainder of the night, 
and until near eleven o'clock on the follow- 
ing day, when we encamped at a place in which there 
was a fair pasturage and some water. Here we tar- 
ried until the morning of the next day, when we filled 
our vessels with water, harnessed up the teams, and 
started. 

Our course lay through a country that was dreary in 
the extreme, and we had no incidents or experiences 
that were worthy of a notice here. 

My readers have found in these pages so many men- 
tions of a certain individual, the capatoz, that they, 
perhaps, would like to know him better. 

As capatoz, Don Manuel Montero commanded the 
troop when the patron, or owner, was absent, and his 
services as vaqueano, or guide, were of the utmost im- 
portance to the welfare and success of the caravan. 
Don Manuel had not the swarthy complexion of the 
Indian peons, but could prove his superiority of birth 
and family in comparison to theirs by a hue that would 
have been pronounced in the United States decidedly 
yellow, that is, if his physiognomy could have been di- 
vested of dirt so as to exhibit the true color ; for the 



166 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

don loved not pure water externally applied, and would 
have been but a poor patron of hydropathy, even could 
he have been convinced of its wonderful virtues. He 
was of middle stature, and sat with great dignity upon 
his pampa steed, which he rarely left during the day ; 
for, being a true gaucho, he always kept the saddle ex- 
cept when he was eating or sleeping. These two 
necessary duties he attended to while reclining on the 
ground — a position that he always assumed when off 
duty. To sleep within a hut or cart was beneath his 
gaucho dignity. 

His hair hung in long black locks, excelled in jetti- 
ness only by those of Facundo, my cook. His toilet 
was attended to at such times as the same operations 
were necessary for the comfort of his dog Choco, when 
master and animal shared the use of the same toilet 
articles. I might write a treatise upon his comb, in 
which I could speak of its decayed and broken parts; 
of its lusty and lively inhabitants that played hide-and- 
seek between the teeth ; of a brawny, lively creature 
from the hair of Don Manuel struggling for mastery 
with another from the shaggy coat of dog Choco. 

As a guide the don's skill was unrivalled. Like most 
vaqueanos he was grave and reserved in manner, and 
conversed but little with the other gauchos. 

He was familiar with every mile of the road from the 
banks of the Parana to the rocky bases of the Andes. 
He could not, like the geographer, tell the exact longi- 
tude, in numbers, of the principal towns of the repub- 
lic, but he knew where they were situated, and could 
travel towards them without missing the true direc- 
tion in the darkest nights. 



THE VAQUEANO. 167 

Don Manuel never offered his advice in a boisterous 
manner, as though in authority, but quietly said to the 
patron, " Three leagues to the right of the road are 
about thirty squares of good grass, and farther on to 
the left is a small lagoon of water not yet dried up." 
His word was always respected, and the usual answer 
of the patron was, "Do as you please, Don Manuel; I 
have confidence in your judgment." 

A native author gives the following description of 
the vaqueano, which will correctly apply to Don 
Manuel : — 

" If lost upon the plain, he dismounts, and by exam- 
ining the soil decides upon his latitude, and tells his 
companions the distance that they are from habita- 
tions. If this is not enough, he pulls grass from differ- 
ent localities and chews the roots, decides upon their 
proximity to some pond or rivulet, fresh or salt, and 
departs in search of it, to decide upon his position. 

" General Rosas can tell by taste the grass of every 
farm south of Buenos Ayres. 

" The guide likewise announces the nearness of the 
enemy when within ten miles of him, and the direction 
from which he is coming, by means of the movements 
of birds, and by the deer and wild llamas that run in 
certain directions. When the enemy is near at hand 
he observes the dust, and by its thickness counts the 
force. He says they number two thousand, five hun- 
dred, two hundred, as the case may be, and the chief 
acts under this instruction, which is almost invariably 
correct. 

"If the condors and vultures flutter in a circle in 
the air, he can tell if there are any persons hid, or if 



168 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

there is an encampment recently abandoned, or if the 
cause of their movements is merely a dead animal." 

Such is the true vaqueano, and such was Don Man- 
uel. At noon we halted near a couple of cerros, the 
commencement of the San Luis chain of mountains. 
The peons killed an ox, but as there was no grass for 
the cattle we did not remain long enough to cook an 
asado. This was the more aggravating, since we had 
none of us eaten anything since the morning of the 
previous day. 

At two o'clock the caravan again halted — this time 
to water the animals from a stream that flowed through 
a quebrada (valley), along which were scattered a few 
ranchos, whose inhabitants lived on pumpkins and 
porridge, the latter being valued at one real per quart. 
A troop from Mendoza passed us at this encampment, 
and I took advantage of the opportunity to get rid of 
some cut reals^ that are current in Rosario, for several 
bunches of grapes. This troop had also packed in 
wicker baskets oranges and figs, a quantity of which I 
purchased to divide with my friends, the old Indian 
and the squaw. I offered a bunch of grapes to Fa- 
cundo, but his sour disposition would not allow him to 
accept. 

From the river the road wound over a plain abound- 
ing in thorn trees and cacti. Here also grew a low 
plant bearing red berries, and resembling peppers in 
taste. The fruit was eagerly sought for by the peons, 
who, throughout the remainder of the journey, sea- 
soned their stews with it. , 

At the end of the plain the barren mountains of San 
Luis rose abruptly, and seemed to form a barrier to 



FIRST VIEW OF THE ANDES. 169 

farther progress. We entered a narrow cleft in the 
chain, and wound through it for an eighth of a mile, 
the voices of the drivers echoing among the rocks with 
fine effect. But great was my surprise when we passed 
from the defile to an elevated plain, to see stretched 
out below us the town of San Luis, with its white 
plastered dwellings, half hidden, and shaded by tall 
rows of poplars, and groves of green willows. It 
brought to mind the days of the conquest, so finely 
described by Prescott, and I pictured the city below 
me as another Cuzco, inhabited by the children of the 
Incas. 

But this was not all. Another sight caught my eye, 
and filled me with joy. Far in the distance a dim, 
blue light, pencilled upon the heavens, told me that I 
had obtained my first view of the Andes — that mighty 
range of mountains which traverses two continents 
and a dozen countries, though known by different 
names. 

What emotions were aroused within me as I gazed 
at that faint streak that seemed floating in the air, for 
below it all was enveloped in clouds ! What visions 
it awoke of steep precipices, dark gorges, and rushing 
streams of water falling in cascades from heights unat- 
tainable by man ! I pictured myself in the act of toil- 
ing tip a narrow path, or sliding down the sides of a 
cerro on the snow. I longed to be there, and won- 
dered whether from the lofty summit of the Cordillera 
I should be able yet to gaze upon the distant waters 
of the great Pacific. 

Above the hazy line two points arose into the clearer 
heavens, and from their sublime appearance particularly 



170 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

attracted my attention. The highest of these peaks, 
which lies to the north of west of Mendoza, was the 
famed Aconcagua, which, rising above the line of eter- 
nal snows, attains an elevation of twenty-three thousand 
nine hundred feet : higher by two thousand five hun- 
dred feet than that monarch of the Andes, Chim- 
borazo. The other peak lies to the south of Acon- 
cagua, and runs up sharply into the heavens. It has 
been measured -by a recent traveller, who gives it an 
elevation of twenty-two thousand four hundred and 
fifty feet above the level of the sea, or not so high as 
Aconcagua by fourteen hundred and fifty feet. 

As I viewed the distant picture with enthusiasm, the 
caravan that came lumbering behind was forgotten, 
until a rough shake, and the words, "JSJsta dormien- 
do f " aroused me to myself. Looking around I beheld 
the grinning features of the capatoz, who exclaimed, 
" La Cordillera de los Andes, que cosa tan rica ! " 
(The Cordillera of the Andes, what a rich thing !) 

As we descended to the town, a party of equestrians, 
male and female, passed on the canter, and entered 
before us. The caravan encamped alongside the mud 
wall that defended the property of the inhabitants, and 
I remarked that the women who visited the troop did 
not come as venders of produce, but as visitors. These 
females were gayly and tastefully dressed, but their 
morals were questionable. As there were no seats 
near the fire, our capatoz gallantly offered one of the 
fair visitors his hat for a substitute ; but she, with the 
others, preferred their own mode of sitting, and squat- 
ted, a la Turque, upon the sand, where they made 
themselves sociable, and when supper was ready joined 



SAN LUIS. 171 

in the meal, eating their meat without knives or iorks, 
but using their fingers instead. 

San Luis is the largest town upon the road from 
Rosario to Mendoza. It is the capital of the province 
of the same name, and contains about two thousand 
inhabitants. This place has varied greatly in its popu- 
lation within the present century. In 1825 it had two 
churches, now it has but one, and this, I afterwards 
learned, was not well supported — which fact accounts 
for its being so immoral a place. 

For many years San Luis had been governed by an 
old, ignorant fellow, just such a man as Rosas was ac- 
customed to place over the interior provinces, in order 
that they might remain in a degraded state, and thus 
be more submissive to his power. A new governor, a 
man of education and energy, had taken the place of 
the old one just removed, and under his influence it 
was hoped that the condition of the people of the 
province might be improved. Formerly a tax of five 
dollars was imposed upon every cart that passed 
through the province, but it has been lowered to a 
more reasonable sum. 

No town on the pampas has suffered from the depre- 
dations of Indians as San Luis. While I was in San 
Juan, two or three months later, I became acquainted 
with several Puntanos, as the people of this place are 
called, and from them received much information re- 
garding these encroachments. 

The Indians usually surprise the town about an 
hour before daybreak, and not only seize what property 
they can remove, but also carry off into captivity the 
wives and sisters of the male portion of the inhabit- 



172 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ants. While one party is engaged in sacking the 
town, another party drives off all the mares they can 
find, as mare's flesh is used as food among them, and 
if they take horned cattle, it is only to sell them to 
Chilenos, who cross the Andes by the most southern 
pass — the Planchon. Great numbers of women and 
children have been carried off during these frays. 

There was living in San Luis, at the time our troop 
passed through the place, an old woman who was 
stolen when a child from her friends. She lived many 
years with her captors, serving them as a menial, or 
slave. Twice she attempted to escape, but each time 
was retaken, and for both attempts her feet were 
skinned by the brutal savages. She made a third at- 
tempt, however, which was successful. Her captors 
were away, hunting guanacos, a species of llama. 
Secreting about her person a quantity of dried mare's 
flesh, she set out for a little lake, telling the squaws 
that she was going to draw water. As soon as the 
lake was reached she struck out boldly into the pam- 
pas, shaping her course in the direction of San Luis. 

The Indians, fortunately, did not overtake or find 
her, and after many days of wandering, she fell in with 
some gauchos, who took her to San Luis, and restored 
her to her friends. 

Another occurrence that was related to me will not 
be without interest to the reader. 

During the California excitement a great number of 
foreigners accompanied caravans from Buenos Ayres 
to Mendoza, en route for the land of gold. Two or 
three of these caravans were troubled by the Indians 
while on the passage to San Luis. 



A VICTORY. 173 

At last one troop of twenty carts, which was accom- 
panied by a large number of foreigners, mostly French 
and English, started from Buenos Ayres, and as the 
men were armed with double-barrelled guns and six- 
shooters, they were continually on the qui vive for an 
opportunity to test their weapons against the long 
spears and boliadores of the Indians. 

Scouts were always on the watch, but not an Indian 
was seen. At length, just before they reached the 
mountains of San Luis, they were met by flying horse- 
men and terrified women from the town, who informed 
them that the savages were among the mines of La 
Carolina, some sixteen or eighteen leagues to the 
north, and were plundering without mercy. As the 
party were debating as to their proper action, the news 
was brought that the Indians, harassed by a few troops 
sent by the governor, were on the retreat. The caravan 
was at once drawn into a defile of the mountains, and 
the white men prepared for action. 

Soon the Indians were descried coming at a rapid 
rate, in one body. Behind each savage were one or 
more female prisoners lashed to the rider. "It was an 
awful sight," said the narrator of the story to me, " when 
we beheld the strangers point their long guns at the 
approaching partyj among which were our friends, 
bound to their relentless captors." 

Unaware of the proximity of strangers, on came the 
galloping party. Suddenly they fell back in confusion, 
but too late for retreat, for the discharge of nearly two 
hundred guns scattered death among them. In an in- 
stant the horses were freed from their savage riders, 
who lay upon the plain in the last agonies. 



174 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Great credit was given to the foreigners who had 
done such service to the province ; and, followed by 
hundreds of the natives, they marched the carts into 
the plaza of San Luis, and there remained several 
days, feasting daily upon eight oxen that were pre- 
sented them by the governor. My informant said that 
such was the skill of the strangers in the use of fire- 
arms, that not a bird flew over the plaza but it was 
shot while flying, much to the astonishment of the 
townsfolk, who will never forget the visit of the 
strangers. 

At San Luis de la Punta the pampas end. On the 
next morning, the 27th of April, when we left the 
town, our course lay over a travesia (desert), which 
was wooded, for the first few leagues, with the black 
algarroba (mata-gusano), and many other species of 
low thorn trees and bushes. The road was filled with 
deep ruts, and as the heavy wagons passed along they 
raised clouds of dust, that made travelling an almost 
insupportable task. At night the cattle had to be 
driven some miles from the road to a place where a 
little pasture was found. We did not eat meat during 
the day, but I found that many of the cacti bore a fruit 
at the top, which, though nearly tasteless, was better 
than nothing. Near where we encamped, three peons 
were loosening a patch of land with the rough plough 
of the country. They were preparing to dig a recep- 
tacle for the water that falls during the summer time, 
and just behind two or three ranchos were two of 
these old pools, out of which our oxen and men drank, 
the capatoz paying six and one fourth cents per head 
for each animal. The water could not have been a foot 



CACTI. 175 

in depth, and what kept it from soaking into the 
ground I could not tell, as the soil was porous rather 
than clayey. 

We resumed our march on the following morning 
without any breakfast, and kept on until noon, when 
the cattle were driven to a distant pasture, and the 
peons cooked an asado. We again watered the oxen 
at another dirty pool, paying the same price per head. 
I was thirsty, but before I could get at the water the 
cattle were crowded in the pool, and I returned to the 
cart without any. Don Facundo furnished me with a 
bottle to fill. I gave it to a dirty urchin, who seized a 
stick, and wading into the muddy pool, drove the oxen 
right and left until he had space enough left to fill the 
demijohn. This he succeeded in doing, but the con- 
tents were such a mixture that, to avoid swallowing 
dirt, sticks, &c, I was obliged to strain it through my 
teeth. 

I noticed in this part of the country a species of 
cactus that had previously escaped my observation. It 
grows about eighteen inches high, spreads out in large, 
broad leaves, and is fed upon by cochineal insects, 
which the natives gather, and sell at a low price. It 
bears a fruit which resembles, in form and color, the 
pine-apple, and is about twice the size of a hen's egg. 
Inside the skin is a white pulpy substance, filled with 
small black seeds, and pleasant to the taste. 

The little pepperish berry became more abundant, 
and, taking advantage of the opportunity, the peons put 
large quantities in their stews, which rendered it so 
fiery to the taste that I was frequently obliged to go 
supperless. 



176 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

The travesia which we were now upon was covered, 
in greater or less quantity, with a peculiar saline min- 
eral which was new to me. I saved a small quantity 
of it, and when I returned to the United States, pre- 
sented it to a scientific association, with the following 
account of the locality in which it is found : — 

" This peculiar mineral is found mixed with the soil, 
in greater or less abundance, from San Luis de la 
Punta (a town on the western side of the pampas of 
the Argentine Republic, where the grass plains prop- 
erly end, and the travesia, or desert, commences) to 
the foot of the Andes. 

" San Luis lies in latitude 83° 16' south, longitude 
66° 27' west, and is the capital of the province of the 
same name. From this town westward the soil is 
almost worthless, until the River Mendoza is reached, 
where irrigation commences. 

" The soil is very light and dry, and not in the least 
compact. This is probably caused by the dryness of 
the atmosphere and absence of water; for when I 
crossed that part of the country, no water was found 
save that which had been caught and retained in holes 
in the ground by the natives. Stones are rarely met 
with, and where they are found I did not observe the 
salt. 

"There are several spots on the travesia between 
San Luis and Mendoza furnishing a poor quality of 
grass, which is fed upon by the cattle which are driven 
across the continent to the coast. 

" With the exception of these spots the country be- 
tween the above named towns, and extending many 
leagues to the north and south, is a desert waste, 



A MINERAL DEPOSIT. 177 

covered with a low growth of thorn bushes and a few 
species of gnarled trees, some of which bear pods. 

" The mineral penetrates the earth from a few inches 
to a couple of feet in depth. It is particularly abun- 
dant at certain places east of the town of San Juan, 
where the ground is covered with a thin incrustation. 
It is here that the reflection of the sun's rays is ex- 
ceedingly painful to the eyes, and the inhabitants are 
constantly affected with inflammation of those organs. 

" The soil for cultivation must first be prepared, and 
the mineral removed. The native method of doing 
this is very simple. The water is conducted from the 
Rivers Mendoza and San Juan (which take their rise 
in the Cordillera) through an acquia^ or canal, around 
squares of level land, at irregular intervals of time, 
and, to' use their own expression, they wash off the 
salitre (saltpetre). Then a plough, constructed of two 
pieces of wood, is brought into service, and it turns up 
from six to eight inches of the soil, which goes through 
the same washing process as the first. 

" After two or three repetitions of this operation, a 
shallow soil is obtained, partially free from salitre^ in 
which wheat, clover, pumpkins, melons, &c, are raised. 
The remaining salitre^ according to the belief of the 
natives, is exhausted by successive crops, and after 
several years of tillage the soil is suitable for the vine. 
Oranges, peaches, quinces, olives, figs, &c, flourish. 
Within a few years large tracts of land have been 
made exceedingly fertile by the process above de- 
scribed, and could the New England plough be intro- 
duced there, the process would be far more effec- 
tive." 

12 



178 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

The following analysis of the salt was made by 
Dr. A. A. Hayes, of Boston, a gentleman well known in 
scientific circles for the care and accuracy with which 
he conducts all analyses: — 

" The specimen was a white, crystalline solid, formed 
by the union of two layers of salt, as often results from 
the evaporation of a saline solution, when the pellicle 
formed on the surface falls to the bottom. Along the 
line of junction crystal facets are seen, but the forms 
are indistinct. These crystals readily scratch calc 
spar, and dissolve without residue in water, affording a 
solution, which, by evaporation at 150° Fahr., leaves 
the salt with some of the original physical characters. 
It readily parts with a portion of water by heat, and 
when the temperature is raised to redness, it fuses 
quietly into a transparent, colorless, anhydrous fluid. 
On cooling, an opaque, white, crystalline solid remains. 
In this climate the specimen attracts moisture, and 
therefore has not a fixed amount of water constitu- 
ent. 

"It consists of water, sulphuric acid, soda, magnesia, 
chlorine. Mixed with it are traces of crenate of iron 
and lime, with sandy grains of earth. 

" One sample afforded — 

Water, 16.420 

Sulphuric acid, .... 49.658 

Soda, 23.758 

Magnesia, 9.904 

Chlorine, .260 



100.000 



SALINE DESERTS. 179 

" Three fragments from different masses were taken, 
and the following substances found : — 

Water, 16.42 18.84 19.60 

Sulphate of soda, . . 48.00 45.82 45.74 

" " magnesia, . 34.20 33.19 33.31 

Chloride sodium, . . 1.21 1.79 1.16 
Crenates lime and iron \ 
with silicic acid, ) 

Sand, . 0.06 0.06 



100.00 100.00 100.00 

" The varying amounts of water given are illustrative 
of the absorptive power of the salts in the atmosphere 
of this place. Dried at 90° Fahr., the amount of water 
was 15.20 in 100 parts, which exceeds by four parts the 
proportion necessary to form proto-hydrates of the two 
salts present. 

" Analysis does not show the two sulphates to be in 
definite proportions in the masses, but the crystals 
may be a double salt, composed of one equivalent of 
sulphate of soda and one equivalent of sulphate of 
magnesia, each retaining an equivalent of water. In 
the masses, the closest approximation is 42 parts of 
sulphate of magnesia found, instead of 46 parts re- 
quired." 

The communication presented embraces interesting 
facts. These saline deserts cover extended areas in 
different parts of South America, and, so far as the 
author has been able to learn, the saline matter differs 
in kind at the different points. The tendency of saline 
matter contained in any soil is to rise through the aid 



180 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

of moisture to the surface, where, the water escaping, 
the salt is deposited. This effect, contrary to the grav- 
itating influence, is the most common cause of deserts, 
and may be exerted everywhere when the evapora- 
tion of water from a given surface becomes much 
greater than that surface receives in the form of rain 
and dew. The cultivation of saline deserts, by wash- 
ing down the saline matter, exhibits the opposite ac- 
tion of water in restoring fertility, and it is by no 
means essential that the water should contain organic 
matter to insure the full effect, as the soil of deserts 
generally contains all the organic matter of many 
years' accumulation. 

An interesting inquiry naturally presents itself to 
the traveller while crossing this peculiar desert. By 
what means was the salt deposited? Two theories 
have been advanced by gentlemen who have visited 
the travesia, both to account for its presence. 

Mr. Bland, the North American Commissioner, who 
visited the Argentine Republic in 1818, thinks that 
these plains "may have been gently lifted just above 
the level of the ocean, and left with a surface so un- 
broken and flat as not yet to have been sufficiently 
purified of its salt and acid matter, either by filtration 
or washing." 

Sir W. Parish's idea of the origin of the salt is dif- 
ferent. He says, "But is it not more likely to have 
been washed down from the secondary strata, which 
form the base of the Andes, in which we know that 
enormous beds of salt abound, particularly in those 
parts of the Cordillera where the greater number of 
the rivers rise which run through the pampas, and 



SALT MINES. 181 

which are almost all more or less impregnated with 
it?" 

While crossing the pampas I occasionally noticed 
that the water of some of the streams was brackish, 
but as we approached the Andes the water of the 
rivers was pure, and free from salt. The San Juan 
and Mendoza Rivers, both of which may be called 
great torrents, bring down alluvial mud in their cur- 
rents ; but I never was able to detect any saline prop- 
erties either in the mud or water. The natives, how- 
ever, have assured me that there are many salt mines 
in the Andes. 



182 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER XII. 
ON THE TRAVESIA. 

ON the 28th of April our caravan crossed the River 
Desaguadero, and upon the western bank the 
peons killed an ox, and we ate for the first time since 
the morning of the previous day. At noon we reached 
the limits of artificial irrigation, which is carried on 
extensively in the neighborhood of Mendoza. Along 
the road ran a shallow ditch, four feet wide, and con- 
taining about two inches of water, which, when the 
canal is full, fertilizes the soil in the vicinity. 

Beyond the Desaguadero, forty leagues from Men- 
doza, lay the hamlet of La Paz, upon the outskirts of 
which we encamped for the night. Very different was 
this hamlet from the others we had passed, which 
looked old and squalid, the houses seeming ready to 
crumble in pieces, and little vegetation, save in San 
Luis, was to be seen. Here everything looked neat, 
and a degree of comfort prevailed that was refreshing 
to the eye of the traveller who had just crossed a dreary 
country. This comfortable and fresh appearance was 
the result of irrigation, for very little rain falls on this 
great travesia, which covers many thousand miles of 
territory in the provinces of San Luis, Mendoza, and 
San Juan ; and wherever the water of rivers can be 



A COLD NIGHT. 183 

turned from their natural course to fertilize the broad 
waste lands, there little spots of verdure appear, and 
the labor of the farmer is crowned with success. 

The whole township of La Paz was divided into 
square pastures, around which ran a wide canal. Along 
the borders of these grew tall poplars, that served to 
fence in and protect the herds of cattle that had been 
brought froni San Luis to fatten on alfalfa, a species of 
clover. Our patron was so parsimonious that he re- 
fused to purchase good pasturage for the cattle, which 
were growing weaker each day on miserable fare, but 
ordered the capatoz to drive them to a piece of waste 
land, upon which grew a scanty supply of dry grass. 

The next day we encamped a few leagues beyond 
the village, where I bought, and shared with the peons, 
a couple of pumpkins, some coarse bread, and a quan- 
tity of dried figs, that had been brought from Mendoza. 
Our road the next day led through woods of thorns 
and algarrobas, and occasionally over an open plain. 

Just before dark we had a fine view of the distant 
Andes, which were now distinctly visible. The most 
lofty peaks were covered with snow, although in many 
places dark lines showed where the rocks remained yet 
uncovered. 

The wind blew direct from the west, and coming 
from the snowy mountains, was very chilly. All night 
I turned and rolled upon my hide in great discomfort 
from the cold that benumbed my limbs. On the next 
day, May 1st, the peons stopped to kill an ox close to 
Las Casitas, a village larger and better than the last 
one we passed three days before. 

While the troop rested, a broad-faced, good-looking 



184 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

fellow beckoned from over a fence of thorns and corn- 
stalks for me to come and dine with him. I accepted 
his kind invitation, and he showed me his hut and 
grounds ; the former was built of cornstalks, and was 
well thatched. 

Upon the rafters, that projected, and formed a plat- 
form outside the hut, were piles of dried pumpkins, 
melons, &c. 

He informed me that he had commenced improving 
the land one year before, and by hard labor, he, to- 
gether with his wife and children, had a htime, and 
were more plentifully supplied with the comforts of life 
■than any other rancho on the road between Rosario 
and Mendoza. 

The canal that ran past his hut watered beds of 
onions, beans, garlic, and many other vegetables not 
often found on the road. 

His wife, a dark-complexioned woman, with "para 
servir a vd" welcomed me to their cabin, and spread 
upon a trunk of an algarroba a small piece of white 
cloth, and upon this placed a dish containing a stew 
of beans, onions, corn, and meat, well-seasoned with 
garlic. They would not receive anything for their kind- 
ness, but when I left presented me with a fine pump- 
kin, which I in turn gave to the peons. 

From this place we travelled very slowly until four 
o'clock, when we halted to feed the oxen. The peons, 
though they had eaten heartily three hours before, 
roasted large slices of meat, and ate a quantity during 
the next half hour that would have astonished the fol- 
lowers of Graham. These people can go without eating 
for an astonishing length of time ; but when an oppor- 



SANTA ROSA. 185 

tunity offers for gormandizing, they will rival Claudius 
Albinus himself. I dare not mention how many steaks, 
each averaging two pounds, Facundo could devour in 
a day ; nor should I wish to state that he thought noth- 
ing of eating three pumpkins at a single meal. 

At dusk the creaking of wheels and loud cries of 
men announced that a troop from Mendoza was ap- 
proaching, and a young man came galloping in advance, 
and greeted our patron as an old acquaintance. The 
oxen of the troop, fresh from Mendoza, contrasted 
strangely with our lean animals, some of which could 
scarcely walk. 

The next morning we were on the road very early, 
for it now became evident that unless our journey was 
soon terminated our cattle would give out; and the 
carts thus situated would be in an unlucky situation. 

The next town was Santa Rosa, once the headquar- 
ters of the Jesuits, who held religious sway over all 
the pampa territories when the country was under the 
control of Spain. 

The place was nothing more than a collection of 
mud huts and corn ranchos. The inhabitants, however, 
supported a small store. 

The only signs of life in the hamlet were from a 
party of women weaving, and two or three half-Indian 
girls chasing a flock of goats and sheep. The country 
around the place was covered with low bushes, and, 
judging by appearances, I concluded that the place had 
seen its best days. Many poor families were supported 
by a flock of twenty or thirty goats and sheep, the lat- 
ter providing sufficient wool, from which their garments 
were made; and as the goats breed twice a year, they 



186 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

had plenty of animal food to satisfy their wants. Be- 
yond this place our caravan entered a straight, broad 
road, shaded with tall poplars, which were planted in 
regular rows on each side of the street, and afforded a 
pleasant shade for the traveller. 

Following the road for two or three miles, we en- 
camped for the night in Alto Verde, where were the 
best houses seen by us since leaving Rosario. The 
frames were of poplar, and were well put together, the 
roof projecting sufficiently to form a veranda. All arti- 
cles of food were cheaper here than at any of the towns 
passed by our troop. Three or four large watermelons 
were given for a medio (6J cents), and two loaves of 
bread for the same amount of money. 

During the day following we passed scattered houses, 
and large pastures of alfalfa, separated from each other 
by fences of growing poplars. Our patron now felt 
compelled to purchase fodder for the oxen, and he ob- 
tained the privilege of pasturing them for the night, 
and until the day following, for three dollars ; which, 
considering the number of animals (over one hundred), 
was a very small sum. 

As we encamped in the highway, we were disturbed 
in our slumbers all the night by the numerous troops of 
mules and racing gauchos who were continually pass- 
ing and repassing, while flocks of wild fowl flew over 
our carts, shaping their course to the south. The fol- 
lowing morning we reached Villa Nueva. The roads 
were very sandy, which gave great trouble to the oxen. 
Before taking our last meal we halted for the night. 

On the next morning we started very early, follow- 
ing a lonely road, without seeing a rancho. About 



GOITRE. 187 

noon we crossed the River Mendoza, which, at the 
place of crossing, was narrow, with a current setting to 
the northward. I had some difficulty in effecting a 
passage without getting wet. 

While the carts were forming a double line, and com- 
mencing other preparations for halting, I disrobed, and, 
under cover of some stunted bushes, bathed in the cold 
stream. 

This was the third bath that I had enjoyed since 
leaving Rosario. The peons laughed derisively at a 
gringo who could not travel eight hundred miles with- 
out washing himself. These disgusting fellows, with 
one or two exceptions, had not applied water to their 
skin for more than forty days, and did not intend to 
cleanse themselves until the troop was close upon 
Mendoza. 

From a few mud houses beyond a rising ground, not 
far from the river, came several men and women, bring- 
ing peaches and melons in their ponchos, together with 
baskets of native manufacture, filled with two kinds of 
grapes, one variety of which was the white Muscatel. 
At different points near this river my attention had 
been attracted by a disease very prevalent among the 
people, which exhibited itself in the form of a large 
swelling upon the throat, and was called by the natives 
the cote (goitre). 

One poor fellow, who had a very large cote, informed 
me that it was caused by drinking the water of the 
stream, and that large swellings had come out upon 
his thighs, from laboring several weeks in the water. 

A young cow that had been purchased on the road 
was the only tender meat that we had eaten since leav- 



188 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ing Rosario. The peons gorged themselves until they 
could eat no more, and ate, perhaps, more than they 
would have done had not the patron been absent ; he 
had gone to Mendoza in order to advertise in the only 
paper in the province that his troop would make its 
entree into the Plaza Nueva on the following day. 

Owing to our proximity to the great town, several 
of the Santia guenos changed their minds about ablu- 
tions, and busied themselves in making preparations 
for the entree. I watched their movements with con- 
siderable interest, for in making their toilet the comb 
of Don Manuel passed around the group, and received 
generous patronage, the little dog that belonged to my 
friend and the woman coming in for their share of its 
use. 

The ball having once been set in motion, the excite- 
ment to appear neat became so great that some of the 
peons actually shook the dust out of their chiropas, and 
put on clean drawers, that had been long kept for some 
great occasion. While the men beat their ponchos 
upon the wagon-wheels, the woman entered a cart to 
make her toilet ; and so changed was her appearance 
an hour after, when she appeared clad in a new calico 
dress, with her hair neatly plaited in two braids, after 
the fashion, formerly, of young girls in our own coun- 
try, that I involuntarily raised my sombrero, which at- 
tention she very pleasantly acknowledged. But, as is 
usually the case w r ith mothers, she had expended the 
principal part of her labor and finery upon her little 
girl, whose appearance had been greatly improved. 

An hour before she had run along the banks of the 
river barefooted, and with hair streaming in the wind ; 



A CHANGE OF DRESS. 189 

but now, with hair smoothly combed, and little body 
decked out in a gay tunic, her black eyes sparkling 
with fun, she seemed to have been transformed from a 
wild Indian girl into an interesting little lady. 

After again eating, the troop moved on" until sunset, 
passing several dilapidated houses, and two or three 
dirty pulperias (stores). Our camping-ground proved 
to be a bad selection, as it was on a low plain, part 
morass, and covered with tall weeds. The peons tried 
to compel me to fill the jars with water at a pond, the 
direction of which they pointed out to me in the dark; 
but I informed them, through a little fellow that spoke 
Spanish, that, as I was aware of our proximity to Men- 
doza, all further orders from them would be disregarded. 
Furthermore, I stated that there were people in the 
town which we were soon to enter who could converse 
equally well in English and in Spanish, and if they, the 
peons, attempted any more insulting acts, the matter 
would be exposed. This answer they evidently did 
not relish, for they became very angry, and conversed 
among themselves in their own language, evidently 
making threats of some kind against me. 

Before retiring, I conversed with the old Indian, 
who was my friend, and he promised to receive my 
little property, snugly packed in a canvas bag, into his 
cart, 

The night r passed without any incident, and when 
daylight came we were already on the march. As the 
troop was not to enter the town until the following 
morning, I partook of an asado for the last time, and, 
discarding my pampa costume, and dressing after the 
fashion of civilized men, I set out in advance of the 



190 A THOUSAND miles' walk. 

company for Mendoza, which was twelve miles distant. 
The whole plain, over which our road lay, was covered 
with a curious bush, growing in clumps from three to 
six inches in height, and bearing a yellow pod, resem- 
bling in shape a screw. The houses that were scat- 
tered along the road were built in the old Spanish 
style. When within three or four miles of the town, 
a continuous line of buildings commenced, which was 
broken only by green pastures of alfalfa, surrounded 
by mud walls and extensive vineyards, the vines of 
which bent to the ground from the weight of the fruit 
they bore. 

Upon the walls of the houses, suspended from canes, 
hung, drying in the sun, bunches of the fruit just men- 
tioned ; and, seeing a great number of casks and barrels 
in almost every yard, I judged that each farmer manu- 
factured his own wine. 

Oranges, lemons, limes, peaches, and olives were 
everywhere abundant, while occasionally the eye rested 
with pleasure upon a pomegranate, or palm-tree. 

Within the yards, surrounded by high enclosures, 
were piles of melons and pumpkins; and ranges of jars, 
filled with olives just stripped from the trees, stood be- 
neath the verandas of the houses. 

The people seemed very hospitable. Twice the pro- 
prietors of different quintas came out, and persuaded 
me to enter their residences and partake of food, say- 
ing that everything they possessed was at my disposal, 
and that the foreigners received their great respect. 

" How knew you that I was a foreigner ? " I asked. 

"By your countenance and vour walk," was the 
reply. 



AN IMPOLITE DOCTOR. 191 

An old man detained me a long time to inquire the 
prices of North American goods. 

" What is the value of this article in your country ? " 
he asked, holding up to my view a cheap earthen mug. 

" About a medio," I replied. 

" What rogues ! " he exclaimed. " In Mendoza they 
charged me three times that sum. Tell me, friend, why 
did you neglect to bring some with you ? You would 
have been a rich man soon." 

The day was the Sabbath, which is regarded as a 
holiday in this country. The pulperias by the road- 
side were thronged by the gauchos, some gambling, 
and others dancing to the sound of the guitar, while a 
few lay drunk upon the ground. About two o'clock, 
after leaping several streams of water that ran along 
the streets, I entered Mendoza, and, after many unsuc- 
cessful inquiries, found myself in the calle de comercio, 
where I luckily met with a Frenchman who spoke a 
little English, and to him made known my wishes re- 
garding my proposed journey across the Andes to Chili. 

The Frenchman informed me that an English physi- 
cian, Dr. D., who had resided several years in Mendoza, 
and had ingratiated himself into the favor of the gov- 
ernment, was just the person to apply to, as he could 
give me any information relative to the Chili road. At 
the moment the doctor himself came up, mounted upon 
a fine horse, and returning from a visit to the country. 

I handed him the letters given me by Mr. Graham, 
and inquired if either of the two persons to whom they 
were directed were in Mendoza ; he returned them to 
me, rather brusquely saying that he was not an Ameri- 
can physician ; and as for Mr. Allen Campbell, he had 



192 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

left two months ago for Santa Fe. In as delicate a 
manner as possible, I informed Dr. D. of my object in 
visiting bis adopted country ; that I was a stranger, and 
unacquainted with the language, and hinted that if 
some person conversant with the dialect would make 
inquiries regarding troops of mules that might be leav- 
ing for Chili, he would be doing me a favor that I could 
not too highly appreciate. To this the doctor drew 
himself up stiffly, and replied, impatiently, — 

" If you wish to cross to Chili, the only method of 
procuring necessary information is to inquire of the na- 
tive merchants, who often send troops across the Cor- 
dillera. According to the last accounts the mountains 
were passable, though the Chili mail has not yet ar- 
rived." 

I answered, " Doctor, I am unacquainted with the 
language, save the little I have acquired upon the road ; 
and if several days are lost by me in fruitless inquiry, 
the mountains will be closed, and I shall be obliged to 
remain here for the next six months." 

" Very well," he answered, touching his horse at the 
same time with his silver spurs. " It is only among the 
merchants that you will receive the information." -And 
he was soon out of sight. 

The Frenchman, who had been a listener to the con- 
versation, exclaimed, energetically, "Vat a tarn fool! 
He might speak one word, and find plentee mules going 
to Chili : he much puffed up with practeese. Come to 
my home, and I will find you a troop of mules to-mor- 
row. I loves the Americans; they is tarn goot fel- 
lows!" 

On our way to his lodgings, my new acquaintance 



THE OLYMPIC CIRCUS. 193 

suddenly remembered that there was a party of North 
Americans in town, and at my request he led me to 
their house. They were professional gentlemen, my 
guide said, but of what particular branch of science he 
could not tell. Never was I more surprised than when 
the Frenchman introduced me to four young men, 
whose flag, as it waved above their house, announced 
them as the Circo Olimpico (Olympic Circus), from 
North America. The director of the company, Mr. 
Daniel H., of Utica, New York, had left the States for 
Mexico thirteen years before, and was with the Ameri- 
can army through the war between the two republics. 

After peace had been established, he freighted a 
small vessel, and, landing upon the northern coast of 
South America, had since travelled over nearly all the 
countries of the continent. 

Of the original number that left with him, he was* 
the only survivor. As soon as one performer had died, 
or retired from the profession, some strolling provistoro 
was always found to fill the vacancy. 

While the company travelled in the upper countries 
of Bolivia, Peru, New Granada, and Ecuador, success 
followed them; for silver is more plenty among the 
middle and poorer classes of those republics that abound 
in rich mines than in the Argentine Republic. Here 
their good fortune deserted them. They had crossed 
over the vast pampa country, and, by giving here and 
there a granfuncion^ had taken money enough to en- 
able them to reach Mendoza. Mr. H. informed me 
that he should follow along the sierras of the Andes, 
and cross the great travesia that covers several of the 
upper provinces, until he reached Potosi, and from Bo- 
13 



194 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

livia the company would cross the Cordillera to Peru, 
where better luck would surely meet them. 

Being the latest arrival from North America, I had 
to answer many questions, as they had not heard from 
that country since leaving the Parana, twelve months 
before. At dusk a negro band played an air that was 
very popular in the United States nine years before. 
With all the facilities of communication that exist be- 
tween the two countries, the song and accompanying 
music had just reached Mendoza, a town supposed by 
its inhabitants to be first in the scale of civilization and 
refinement. 

The following morning I visited the Plaza KTueva, 
where the carts of our caravan were discharging their 
cargoes, and received from the old Indian my bag. 

We parted pleasantly, and I only regretted that my 
present to him could not have been as great, propor- 
tionately, as my regard for him. The patron and capa- 
toz commended me to the care of my Maker, and 
wished that many years might be added to my life, to 
which civil speech I made an appropriate reply. As 
for the peons, they said nothing, nor even comforted 
me with a single glance or nod of good feeling. 



MENDOZA. 195 



CHAPTER XIII. 
MENDOZA. 

TWO or three days were passed in inquiring for a 
troop of mules bound for Chili, but no information 
could be obtained of any, and I afterwards learned that 
the last troop of the season had left Mendoza on the 
day after my arrival, and had barely succeeded in 
reaching Chili with their lives. 

For twenty-one days the Andes were enveloped in 
clouds, the dark and portentous appearance of which 
was terrible to behold. I passed hours of each day in 
watching the fierce temporales, as the natives called 
them, that came rolling along the summit of the 
sierras from the regions of Cape Horn, covering, in 
their mad career, whole ranges of mountains in a man- 
tle of snow. To have attempted a passage at that 
time would have been certain death ; so with all the 
philosophy that could be drawn from irremediable dis- 
appointment, I became resigned to my fate to remain 
in the interior of the country until the genial sun of 
another spring should melt the snow-drifts that blocked 
up the passes of the Andes. 

The old Spanish town of Mendoza is situated in lati- 
tude 32° 51' south, longitude 67° 57' west, at the foot 
of the eastern declivity of the Andes. It was laid out 



196 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

in cuadrasj or squares, the sides of which were one 
hundred and fifty yards long. It contained, at the 
time of my visit, nearly ten thousand inhabitants. Of 
the two plazas the Independence was the most cele- 
brated, because of the fountain it contained. This 
fountain, however, was dry when I was there, the 
aqueduct having become choked with leaves and 
stones; it had been permitted to remain in this 
useless state for some time, and I was of the opinion 
that it would still continue dry, as no attempt was 
made to clear it out, and no plan was discussed by 
which it might in the future be again in operation. 

The Alameda, a much-talked-of public walk on the 
side of the town nearest the mountains, was resorted 
to by all classes. An artificial canal flowed beside the 
principal walk, watering a row of fine poplars, beneath 
which were a few stone seats, where I often sat and 
watched the different classes of the Mendozinos prom- 
enading after the siesta. 

In a little mud hut, kept by a Chilino, I was sur- 
prised to find a luxury not often met with in southern 
countries. Ice was brought from the mountains on 
mules, and the inhabitants were enabled to enjoy their 
creams at a trifling expense. It was in the Alameda 
that I sometimes had a glimpse of the governor of the 
province of Mendoza — Don Pedro Pascual Segura. 
He was a man small in stature, and this characteristic 
seemed to be general in the different traits of his charac- 
ter, for he was of little energy, and had, consequently, 
little of the rascality of his predecessors. He was liter- 
ally small in everything, as the following incident will 
show. 



A MEAN MAN. 197 

The Mendoza band belonged to the government, and 
Don Pedro had disposed of their services by contract, 
for a certain sum of money, to the theatrical company 
of Senor Rodenas, who had established himself in the 
town a short time before my arrival. The North 
American Circus Company came into the place soon 
after, and the director presented the governor his com- 
pliments and a season ticket to the performances. As 
the circus company wished to perform on the same 
evening as the company of Senor Rodenas, and by so 
doing could not obtain the services of the band, the 
governor, without further ceremony, broke the contract 
with the theatre, and ordered half the musicians to 
the house of the North Americans. This unjust act 
greatly injured the native performers, who were poor, 
and had but just arrived from a distant part of the 
country. 

The houses of Mendoza were one story high, and, un- 
like those of Buenos Ayres, were built of adobes, which 
were covered with mud and whitewashed. These, like 
the dwellings of that city, had a dreary, prison-like ap- 
pearance. The patio, or yard, was in the centre of the 
building, and was accessible by a large, heavy door, 
called the puerto-calle. A door from each room opened 
into the yard, where, in the summer months, the house- 
hold, including servants, usually slept, for the climate 
near the mountains has not the heavy dews of the 
pampas. The roofs were generally of mud, plastered 
upon canes, bound together by strips of hide, which 
rested upon a rough frame of willow, poplar, and a 
hard kind of wood resembling the algarroba. The 
adobes were made near the spot where the building 



198 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

was to be erected when sufficient material could be 
procured. Mud, trodden fine by horses and mixed 
with straw, was placed in moulds about twenty by 
eight inches, and four or five deep, and, after being re- 
moved, the adobe was allowed to dry in the sun's heat 
for two or three weeks. Outside the town a rough, 
square brick was made, which served to floor the 
houses of the rich, and was covered by a carpet of 
European manufacture. 

The town, at the time of my visit, was liberally sup- 
plied with churches, and had a convent. The priests 
bore a much better character than those of the northern 
countries of the continent, as in most places where 
Catholicism exists they have a strong influence over 
the lower classes, and fill the narrow streets of the 
town with processions, much to the annoyance of every 
one who is obliged to kneel uncovered as they pass 
along. One foreigner told me that when he entered 
the place for the first time, he halted his horse in the 
plaza, through which a crowd of people were hurrying 
with lighted candles and crucifixes. The priest observ- 
ing that he did not recognize, by humiliating himself, 
the respect due them, sent a vigilante, who threatened 
to run him through with the bayonet if he did not dis- 
mount from his horse and kneel upon the ground. 
There being no protecting power nearer than Buenos 
Ayres, or Santiago in Chili, a foreigner must go through 
these debasing forms, do homage to man, or feel the 
point of the bayonet or sword, " for there is no pro- 
tection for gringos in the provinces north and west of 
Buenos Ayres." 

This I had told me more than once by officers of the 



EXTREME PIETY. 199 

government of this republic that pretends to copy the 
principles that have been expounded by Washington, 
Jefferson, Adams, and Lafayette. I always kept a 
bright lookout when abroad, and the instant the shaven 
heads of the good fathers appeared I turned the first 
corner, and stopped not until two squares were be- 
tween us. 

At a certain season of the year a mock Christ was 
crucified by the priests. The deluded people, believing 
it to be the true Savior, wept as they beat their 
breasts, and cried out with compassion. At these and 
other services of the church, as the mass and vesper 
prayer, the men formed a very small portion of the 
congregation, but the women were constant attend- 
ants, and were continually at the confessional. 

One young lady with whom I was acquainted made 
it a rule to confess three times a week. This she con- 
tinued to do for the space of one year, when good 
Father Maximo became so weary of her appearance or 
of her sins, that he told her to come once in seven 
days, and he would pardon the whole at once. Every 
morning the early riser met with little parties of 
females returning from early mass, chatting pleasantly 
as they proceeded to their homes. Each female who 
could afford it had a servant, who followed behind with 
an alfombra (mat), upon which the lady sat while in 
church. The children always went on before, that they 
might be under the eye of the matron who watched 
them, particularly if they were young ladies, with a 
degree of vigilance equal to that of the duenazas of 
old Spain. 

While speaking of churches and church-goers I will 



200 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

not omit mentioning a few facts relative to one Padre 
A. and his family, whose fame is wide-spread in the 
other provinces of the republic. This A. was a priest 
in the church of San Domingo, and, breaking his vow, 
acquainted Rosas with the thoughts and actions of 
those who had unbosomed themselves to him. 
. His villanous character began to show itself, and 
throwing aside the padre's cloak, he took the sword, 
and became one of the bloodiest generals that Mendoza 
had ever supported. His deeds of cruelty made him 
known throughout the country. His family, which 
had, during his career, enjoyed a notoriety, sank into 
obscurity after his death. 

Several years since, a daughter of the padre, who had 
distinguished herself for her licentious conduct, per- 
formed a journey, in company with her sister and an- 
other young lady, — all wild girls, — that proved no 
less disastrous than it was foolish in design. 

The three girls, attired in gaucho costume, set out 
on horseback, and not with side-saddles, to cross the 
Cordillera of the Andes. The trip was successful. 
They entered Chili without meeting any obstacle to 
mar their happiness, and after having passed a few 
weeks with friends, started to return to the Argentine 
Republic. The guides warned them of coming tem- 
poraries, but they had tarried from home too long to pro- 
tract their stay ; perhaps to be obliged to remain in Chili 
until the winter's snows were gone. They entered the 
mountains, and somewhere near the Cumbre pass, a 
storm broke upon them, and only two of the females 
escaped with their lives. 

Each church in Mendoza had several bells, which 



THEATRE AT MENDOZA. 201 

were far from melodious, having a tinkling sound, and 
the manner in which they were rung reminded me of 
our national air. But the people were well satisfied 
with these discordant sounds, and one of the priests, 
who had returned from a visit to England, on being 
asked how he liked that country, replied, — 

" England is a fine country, superior to ours in every- 
thing save one — the English do not know how to 
chime their bells." 

A theatre of two stories in height had been built un- 
der the supervision and at the expense of a certain 
"scientific gentleman," and though the building was 
but a whitewashed structure, it raised the gentleman 
to enviable fame. He was pointed out to me as a pro- 
found man, a geologist and astronomer, and further- 
more the government would not raise a wall or dig an 
acquia without first consulting Don Carlos's opinion. 
Though a native of the country, he assumed to be an 
Italian, but did not succeed in convincing the people 
to that effect when I left Mendoza. I was told that 
the don had acquired his principal knowledge of en- 
gineering, &c, while assisting Lieutenant Archibald 
Macrae, of the United States Naval Astronomical Ex- 
pedition, two or three years before, in taking the alti- 
tudes of certain places in the Andes. Don Carlos 
occasionally turned aside from his researches in science, 
and amused himself, or became the amuser of the more 
talented portion of the Mendozinos. Once he collect- 
ed an eager crowd of people by mounting the roof of 
a house, and pretending, by means of the needle of the 
compass, to determine the course and distance of a 
comet, which, with fiery tail, looked so ominously as to 



202 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

cause many of the gaucho population to believe that 
the town was about to be destroyed. 

I was convinced that the Mendozinos were the most 
peaceable and hospitable people of the republic, and 
showed more respect to foreigners than was customary 
where the old dogmas and customs of the Spanish pre- 
vailed. I could not perceive any difference between 
the higher classes of this town and those of Buenos 
Ayres in the matter of complexion. 

They had as light skins as any Spaniard that I had 
met in the last named city, and generally retained the 
purity of blood. The lower classes differed, however. 
They were of every type that exists in the republic 
west of Parana and south of latitude 28°, being com- 
posed of peons of the different provinces, while the 
blood of the Indian and negro courses through the 
veins of many. They were very immoral and exceed- 
ingly ignorant, but were kind-hearted and courteous 
to strangers. Much time was wasted in dancing and 
other frivolous amusements. The females of all grades 
embroidered with skill, and showed great taste in the 
selection of their patterns. The bonnet was not worn, 
but a shawl, covering the head and falling gracefully 
about the form, supplied its place, the temperature be- 
ing so mild and uniform that no warmer head covering 
was needed. 

I noticed that the ladies painted their cheeks in an 
extravagant manner; a custom that we should not sup- 
pose would have gained entrance to such an isolated 
place. In San Juan, one hundred and fifty miles to 
the north, I saw nothing of this, and was told that it 
was of rare occurrence. 



GOITRE. 203 

Mencloza was a very healthy place at the time I was 
there. I learned that many persons, troubled with 
complaints that usually end in consumption, after re- 
siding there a few years were restored to health. 

But there was one form of disease which was said 
by the physicians to be incurable, and which in our 
own country would lead to a desertion of the site. 

This was the goitre of the medical fraternity, and, as 
I have before mentioned, is known among the people 
as the cote. The disease appeared in the form of a 
large swelling on the throat, which was caused by the 
mineral qualities of the River Mendoza* The canals 
that supplied the citizens of the town ran through 
nearly every street, and each family procured their 
water from them. 

The richer portion of the inhabitants had filters, or 
drip-stones, through which the water was allowed to 
pass, and become free from all vegetable matter. Now 
the question presented itself to me, Did the water, in 
passing through the fine drip-stone, rid itself of any of 
its mineral properties? and I was led to the opinion 
that it did, from noticing the fact that the richer 
classes, having their water thus filtrated, were rarely 
troubled with the goitre, while the poor people, who 
drank from the canal itself, presented the disease in all 
its forms upon them. In fact, the goitre seemed to 
be a part of their person, for every sixth or seventh 
female, and now and then a man, that I met during a 
morning walk, exhibited the disagreeable symptoms. 

At San Vicente, a small village, four miles from the 

* Undoubtedly the miserable food upon which the poor people 
subsisted helped in encouraging the growth of this excrescence. 



204 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

town, the goitre could be examined in all its forms ; 
" for," said an individual to me while in Mendoza, " I 
fully believe that every fourth woman in the place is 
affected by it." It was not a rare thing to see a large 
swelling on both sides of the throat, so large as to be 
absolutely disgusting. There was in the neighborhood 
of Mendoza a spring of fine water, but only a few of 
the citizens took advantage of its existence. 

Mendoza had, when I was there, a good school for 
the instruction of the young, who, like most Creoles, 
acquired knowledge very quickly. A young English- 
man was at the head of the establishment, and in all 
respects the school seemed prospering. Besides the 
school there was a public library containing three or 
four thousand volumes, which, if consulted, could not 
fail to be of benefit to the inhabitants, who were ex- 
tremely ignorant of things unconnected with their im- 
mediate vicinity. The people had recently started a 
newspaper, "El Constitucional," and, judging by the 
pompous leaders of the gentleman who occupied the 
editorial chair, a stranger would have been led to be- 
lieve that Mendoza was the greatest and most impor- 
tant city on the globe. 

For their press, types, etc., they were indebted to 
Mr. Vansice, formerly of Utica, N. Y., who came to 
this country several years before, and by his energy 
became of great' assistance to the government of the 
province. He remodelled many old forms, and liber- 
alized the ideas of the people to such an extent that 
they encouraged him to revisit North America, and 
obtain many articles, the introduction of which have 
facilitated the different kinds of labor in which the peo- 



INDEPENDENCE DAY. 205 

pie were engaged; and following out this plan to a 
greater extent, a company was forming, the object of 
which was to send to the United States for machines, 
tools, &c. Mr. Vansice furnished two other provinces, 
also, with printing materials, and used all possible ef- 
fort to establish a public press on a substantial basis. 

After filling offices of dignity and honor, he retired 
to the miserable little village of San Jose del Moro, 
where he resided with his native wife, carrying on a 
profitable business in English goods, which were brought 
from Valparaiso. 

While I was in Mendoza, the celebration and 
festivities of the 25th of May, the independence 
day of the republic, took place, and were celebrated 
with unusual enthusiasm. For several days previous 
the people were engaged in preparing for the fes- 
tivities, though not half of the lower classes knew 
for what reason the celebration was made, so ignorant 
were they of their country's history. The government, 
for one hundred dollars, secured the services of the 
North American performers, and under their direction 
a ring of adobes was constructed in the centre of the 
plaza, and close beside it a rostrum for the governor, 
his suite, and the musicians. The news of the gran 
funcion that was to take place spread far into the 
country, and three days prior to the 25th the gauchos 
came galloping into town from all parts of the prov- 
ince. At sunrise, on the great day, I visited the plaza 
in which the populace was pouring, the whole forming 
a most picturesque scene. 

Gauchos, gayly attired, were mounted upon horses 
decked out with silver ornaments, and tails braided 



206 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

with ribbons, and galloping about in little parties. 
Some farmers came into town, accompanied by their 
wives and daughters, and it was no uncommon thing 
to see two women, each with a child in her arms, riding 
on the same horse with a man. At such galas one sees 
a degree of life and animation not to be met with at 
other times ; for, as soon as the festival is over, the peo- 
ple sink into a most indolent state, and remain so until 
the next dia de fiesta arouses them to life and action. 

The school-boys sang the national hymn, and the 
governor swore to support the constitution, after which 
a military review took place. The several companies, 
as they marched around the plaza, were preceded by a 
trumpeter, who blew terrific blasts as the occasion re- 
quired. All the foot soldiers carried old English mus- 
kets, the cavalry being armed with short carbines or 
lances. 

Two cannon, the only pieces of artillery in the prov- 
ince, were drawn by foot-soldiers, dressed, like the oth- 
ers, in white pantaloons and jackets, and from beneath 
the former hung the frill of the gaucho drawers. While 
the review was taking place, the bells of all the 
churches were pealing in their usual manner, and rock- 
ets were constantly sent off, though the sun shone 
brightly, which, of course, did not heighten the pyro- 
technic display. Nearly every house showed a flag, 
and among them I observed the English colors floating 
from the house of the courteous (?) English physician. 

During the day many of the gauchos attempted to 
climb a greased pole erected in the plaza, upon the top 
of which money had been placed ; but not one succeeded 
in gaining the coveted prize. The only decoration in 



A WEAK-MINDED GOVERNOR. 207 

the plaza was a hexagonal figure, resembling a Chinese 
lantern, and covered with white cloth. Upon each 
side was painted a figure, one of Liberty, one of Justice, 
and another, a portrait of General Urquiza and our 
own Washington, side by side. 

The stand was decorated with the flags of the South 
American republics, and the only foreign one was that 
of the United States, which floated over the figure of 
Washington, beside which was a quotation from one 
of his speeches delivered to the American people. 

The circus performance passed off to the delight of 
all, and the equestrians who could so skilfully perform 
upon a galloping horse were declared by the gauchos 
to have been trained for the occasion by his satanic 
majesty. 

Just after the 25th, the Mendozinos were thrown 
into a great excitement by the announcement that a 
cacique, attended by fifty of his men, had left his native 
plains of Patagonia, and was rapidly approaching the 
town. 

Upon the receipt of the news, the governor called 
together all the musicians, and sent them to escort the 
savages into Mendoza. The chief encamped outside 
the town, and, having obtained an interview with the 
governor, presented, in the most barefaced manner, a 
petition from his tribe which any other government 
would have recognized as an insult, and treated it as 
such. He wished to be told how much per month his 
tribe would be allowed if they would not steal any 
more. 

Instead of sending them off about their business, or 
seizing them, the governor treated them like spoiled 



208 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

children, promising them an allowance if they behaved 
well, and distributing presents among them, after which 
they were escorted to their own country, fourteen days' 
travel from Mendoza,by a party of soldiers commanded 
by an officer. 

A day or two before the departure of these Indians, 
while I was transacting some business in a store, the 
chief entered, followed by two of his tribe. This beard- 
less savage was dressed in a full English suit, that he 
had undoubtedly stolen somewhere, as his tribe were 
notorious robbers. 

He addressed me, through an interpreter, in broken 
Spanish. 

Probably suspecting that I was a foreigner, he asked 
if " Kopa " (Europe) was not my home. He had no 
knowledge of any other country, but supposed that all 
foreigners came from the same land on the other side 
of a great water. I told him concerning my native 
land, and in the course of the conversation remarked 
that we had a great many Indians, but that they gen- 
erally used fire-arms ; at which he probably set me down 
as being as great a liar as himself. 

According to his own story, he was a good man, a 
rich man, and a friend to humanity, and to foreigners 
in particular. He had the same hypocritical way of 
talking as the natives of Mendoza, and I came to the 
conclusion that they had mutually assisted each other 
in their education. 

After scrutinizing the various objects about him, he 
at length asked me, with a grunt, to lend him four 
reals. Of course I refused him ; but I was? curious to 
learn more of him, and my refusal was not made in the 



A BORROWING CHIEF. 209 

most decided tone possible. He smiled grimly, and 
commenced telling a long story of his beautiful house (?) 
far away in Patagonia, where I should always be a wel- 
come visitor. He had vast numbers of ostriches and 
guanacos running about his grounds, all of which 
should be at my disposal if I would but accompany 
him back to the pampas. He liked foreigners, because 
they were braver than the Creoles. Pausing in the 
midst of his harangue, he gave me a punch in the ribs, 
and asked to be accommodated with three reals. I 
again refused. Taking up the thread of his story, he 
continued at great length, finally promising to bring 
me a tame guanaco when he returned to Mendoza. 
Here followed another poke, and a request for two 
reals, then one, and finally promising to be content 
with a medio. I gave it to him, and he left me. 

The circus performers intended leaving Mendoza for 
San Juan, a town lying one hundred and fifty miles to 
the north, and earnestly wished me to accompany 
them. To me it mattered little whether I remained 
four months in Mendoza or any other place ; but before 
accepting their invitation I called upon the correo, or 
Chilian courier, to see if I could possibly cross the Cor- 
dillera with him. The correo was away on the passage, 
and the postmaster-general believed that he was de- 
tained by the temporales that had been raging, and 
would not return for several weeks. 

In crossing the mountains during the winter season, 
four men form the correo. One carries the mail, an- 
other wood, another provisions, &c. They do not leave 
either side bftener than once a month, and are some- 
times a whole month in performing the journey, as 
-- -^ 14 



210 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

they are frequently shut up in the snow-huts that are 
scattered along the road for many days at a time. 

The casuchas, or snow-huts, are scattered along the 
trail at irregular distances. These huts are built of 
brick, with an entrance so constructed as to be above 
the drifting snow. The post party left Mendoza on 
mules, or horses, and proceeded into the mountains as 
far as the depth of snow would permit. Peons then 
took back the animals, leaving the correo to continue 
the journey on foot. This was the custom at the time 
of my visit. Upon reaching the main chain of the An- 
des, the state of the atmosphere was carefully studied, 
and if the result proved favorable they ascended the 
Cordillera. 

When upon the western side of the chain, the party 
sometimes adopted an ingenious method for facilitating 
their progress. Each man carried with him a square 
piece of hide, upon which he sat, and descended the 
inclined surfaces with much ease and great rapidity. 
After reaching Santa Rosa, the first town upon the 
western side, the correo mounts a horse, and gallops to 
Santiago, the capital of the republic, which is about 
twenty leagues from the village. 

Upon the 5th of June the correo had not returned; 
and as there was no possibility of my crossing into 
Chili, I consented to go to San Juan, and set out about 
dusk with the circus manager and one of his men for a 
quinta outside the town, from which we were to start 
the next morning. The owner of the quinta had agreed 
to take charge of the company's mules and baggage, 
and act as guide to our party while crossing the dreary 
travesia. We passed, by moonlight, the burial-ground 



DESTRUCTION OF MENDOZA. 211 

on the outskirts of the town, and reached the mule- 
teer's house, where we found the family sleeping in the 
yard, — men, women, and dogs, promiscuously. 

As I probably shall not in this volume again have 
occasion to refer to the town of Mendoza, I will here 
speak of its destruction, which, as my readers doubtless 
are aware, occurred in 1861, from an earthquake. This 
most terrible catastrophe, in which thousands of human 
beings lost their lives, has hardly found a parallel in 
the history of the western hemisphere. 

A recent traveller, who visited the place after the 
calamity, says, in describing the ruins, — 

" I arose at an early hour, and sallied forth to see 
and contemplate the ruins of the doomed city. 

"I walked along the fine avenue of poplars (the Ala- 
meda) for about a hundred yards, and turned into the 
right ; a few paces brought me into the nearest street, 
where I was absolutely struck dumb and immovable 
with horror at the scene which presented itself. 

" As I gazed along the whole length of that street, not 
a single house was there to be seen standing ; all was a 
confused mass of ( adobes,' beams, and bricks. 

"The street was filled upon a level with what remained 
of the walls of the houses on either side, which at a 
glance accounted for the fearful number of victims — 
upwards of twelve thousand — entombed beneath the 
ruins of that fatal 20th of March, 1861. 

"From the plaza I turned towards the north, and 
there saw the only edifice, or rather portion of one, 
that had remained entire : it was the theatre, which, 
having had a considerable quantity of timber in its 
construction, remained partially uninjured. I ascended 



212 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

to the roof, and got a fine view of the entire city. For 
a mile around on every side nothing but a chaotic mass 
of ruins was visible, — the debris of a large city razed 
to the ground in an instant! On the left were the 
ruins of what had been once a fine church, ' Santo 
Domingo,' the altar and a portion of the arch being the 
only remaining traces of its former sacred character. 

" Looking away towards the south might be seen the 
still partially-erect walls of c San Francisco,' another 
fine church, which boasted of the largest bell in the 
city. This bell was pitched from its position to a con- 
siderable distance by the shock, and stuck between two 
towers on the north side of the building, where it may 
be still seen, wedged in so firmly that all attempts at 
removing it simply by lifting have failed. On approach- 
ing ' Santo Domingo,' in order to examine it more 
closely, I saw lying about its 'precinct' several human 
skeletons, and portions of the human form protruding 
from beneath the masses of masonry. I was almost 
sickened by the sight, and moved quickly away. In 
many parts of the city I saw the same horrible exhibi- 
tion, — skulls, arms, legs, &c, lying about, some still 
undecayed, especially near a convent on the south side 
of the city." 

A gentleman who was buried under the ruins, and 
afterwards extricated, in describing his experiences, 
says, — 

"I stood at a table (about half-past eight, P. M.) 
in the centre of the room, and was in the act of lighting 
a cigar, when the shock, preceded by a low, rumbling 
noise, was first felt. It was slow for a moment in the be- 
ginning; but from the noise, I concluded it was going 



THE EARTHQUAKE. 213 

to be something more than ordinary ; so I rushed into 
the street, and ran down the middle, intending, if possi- 
ble, to reach the Alameda. I had run only some twenty 
paces when I felt as if I had been struck a heavy 
blow on the back of the head, and was borne down to 
the earth in a moment. I knew that the town was 
infested with rats and vermin of all kinds, and that, 
sooner or later, they would not fail to find me out 
amongst the thousands of victims entombed, like my- 
self, beneath at least six feet depth of ' adobes.' " 

Mr. Hinchliff, who visited Buenos Ayres, in writing 
of the earthquake, says, — 

u M. Bravart, a French savant of some eminence, who 
had foretold the destruction of the city by an earth- 
quake, was himself among the victims. The principal 
watchmaker in Buenos Ayres, which is about eight 
hundred miles distant from the scene of this awful 
calamity, told me a curious fact in connection with it. 
One day he observed with astonishment that his clocks 
suddenly differed twelve seconds from his chronome- 
ters; and when the news arrived, about a fortnight 
later, he found that the pendulums of the former had 
been arrested at the moment of the destruction of 
Mendoza." 

Since my return to the United States I received a 
letter from Don Guillermo Buenaparte, of San Juan, in 
which he spoke at considerable length of the earth- 
quake. He wrote me that when he approached Men- 
doza, three or four days after the catastrophe, the stench 
rising from the dead bodies beneath the ruins was per- 
ceived at a distance of several miles from the town. 
He found gauchos from the plains robbing the wound- 



214 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

ed, and searching among the rubbish for plunder. 
When he reached the public square of the city he 
found more than a hundred women, all mentally af- 
fected, many entirely bereft of their reason ; all were 
praying on their knees, asking the Holy Mary to inter- 
cede for the lost souls of their countrymen who had, 
prior to the fall of the doomed city, united with others 
from San Luis, and had attacked and butchered many 
of their political enemies (some four hundred) of San 
Juan. The unfortunate lunatics seemed to think that 
God had overthrown their city to avenge the murder 
of San Juaninos. A political conspiracy was being 
planned in the city at the time it was destroyed. 

Such a spectacle as the above needs no comment. 

At four o'clock of the next morning after our depar- 
ture from Mendoza, the muleteer aroused us, and bade 
us prepare for the journey; and an hour later we were 
journeying along the base of the lofty Andes, that tow- 
ered above our heads. 

Two hours' ride brought us to the travesia, over 
which we journeyed, passing close to a great lake that is 
supplied by two streams that flow from the Cordillera. 

Much of the water is absorbed by the soil about the 
lake; and as but very little escapes through one or two 
outlets, it has been called by the natives "El Guana 
Cache," or the Consuming Lake. 

I afterwards saw specimens of fishes that had been 
taken from its waters, which were offered for sale in 
San Juan by the half-starved peons during the winter 
season, when provisions were very dear. If the speci- 
mens did not belong to the genus Nematogenys of 
Girard, they were closely allied to it. 



A DREARY JOURNEY. 215 

At night our party stopped beside a rude hut, in- 
habited by a poor gaucho. The hut contained a cu- 
rious family of men, women, children, dogs, goats, and 
fowls. The poor owner begged for a little sugar as a 
remedio. 

Throughout the following day our course was over 
the same dreary desert, and at night we were glad to 
arrive at a post-house within a few leagues of San 
Juan. 

By noon of the next day our party entered the town, 
which is still more isolated than Mendoza, being one 
hundred and fifty miles north of the principal road to 
Chili. 



216 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

A WINTER IN SAN JUAN. 

AS soon as I arrived at San Juan, I made inquiries 
for parties who were about crossing the moun- 
tains ; but owing to a most severe snow storm that set 
in, the clouds of which were plainly visible from the 
town, I was forced to the disagreeable necessity of 
remaining until the snows melted. The people told me 
that the winter had proved to be the most severe of 
any season within the last thirty years. They said 
that after ten dry or mild winters there always suc- 
ceeded a similar number of wet or severe seasons, and 
that the present was the first of the hard series. The 
apparently settled weather that greeted me was but 
the precursor of most severe storms in the mountains. 
They said I could not cross ; to attempt it would be 
madness. 

While the time hung heavily on my hands, I heard 
much about a strange person, yclept Don Guillermo 
Buenaparte, a North American by birth, and a second 
father to the poorer classes of his immediate vicinity. 
So many were the charitable deeds of this man, and so 
frequent were the eulogies pronounced upon his char- 
acter by the natives, that I felt a desire to visit him in 
his own castle, which he had constructed of mud and 



DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE. 217 

sticks, some eight or nine miles distant, in a small villa 
called Causete. 

Before I could find an opportunity of going, I was 
favored with a call from the gentleman himself, who 
rode into the patio of my dwelling one evening, mount- 
ed upon a powerful white horse, and covered with a 
long poncho, which, with a broad sombrero, gave him 
a truly patriarchal appearance. 

Don Guillermo, having heard of my arrival in San 
Juan, had come to invite me to his estate in Causete, 
where he carried on a little flour mill, and followed a 
number of other occupations. A day was appointed 
for the visit, and when it came around I set out with 
a peon for a guide for the villa. We soon, on leaving 
the town, came upon a plain which gave support to a 
few stunted trees, peculiar to the travesia. With the 
soil was mingled the peculiar saline mineral described 
in a former chapter, which, with the dryness of the 
atmosphere (for it seldom rains in this part of the re- 
public), made our journey a disagreeable one. 

In crossing this tract the reflections of the sun's rays 
upon the white surface affected my sight, and obliged 
me to follow the practice of my guide, and, like him, 
cover the face with a large cotton handkerchief, a la 
gaucho. The first human habitation that I saw was 
a rancho built of cornstalks; and here reposed a peon 
with his wife, children, and dogs, while a huge buck 
goat, with a formidable pair of horns, stood at the en- 
trance as if to receive us. 

I soon came to a place where a liberty pole was 
standing ; and knowing that such a thing could not be 
the work of the natives, I concluded that I must be 



218 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

near the residence of my new acquaintance. I was 
not mistaken, for he soon appeared over a little rising 
ground. After greeting me cordially, he led me across 
the canal, that furnished his mill with water, to his 
house, where he introduced me to his wife and four 
children, the youngest of whom could not yet lisp its 
father's name. 

I remained through the day with them, and when 
night came on, so interesting had been Don Guillermo's 
recital of nine years' residence in the Argentine Re- 
public, that I was easily prevailed upon to remain un- 
til morning. The next day came and passed, but still 
I was an inmate of my countryman's house, and finally 
was persuaded to promise that I would not leave it 
until the snows began to melt upon the Cordilleras, 
when I must hasten to Chili, and from its principal 
port, Valparaiso, sail for home. 

I accepted the offer of Don Guillermo's hospitality 
only upon the condition that I should be of service to 
him by taking charge of his mill ; for the natives were 
so dishonest that he dared not employ one in any office 
of trust, and I felt that it would be but a pleasure for 
me to aid him. I was accordingly installed, after fifteen 
minutes' teaching, as molinero^ or chief miller. 

I felt proud of my office, though it was but a hum- 
ble one. My mind was fully occupied, and I became 
contented. When opportunities offered, I took an old 
condemned English musket, which I charged with 
powder and a few pebbles, and made explorations in 
the surrounding country for the purpose of making 
collections in its fauna. I often captured many a 
rare specimen, and laid the foundation of an ornitholo- 



AT THE MILL. 219 

gical collection; but although I had no difficulty in 
getting specimens and preparing them, — for taxidermy- 
was familiar to me, — I found one great obstacle to their 
preservation that I could not surmount. As my read- 
ers doubtless know, arsenic is very essential for pre- 
serving the skins of birds and mammals, and I found I 
could do but little without it. So one day I mounted 
my horse, — a present from Don Guillermo, — and gal- 
loped into town in quest of the mineral; but not one 
of the druggists would sell me an ounce of poison ; it 
was a crime to vend the article. I applied to the 
physicians, but to no avail. I next tried some of the 
officers of the government, but failed again. I even 
offered three dollars for one pound. The doctors and 
officers exclaimed, " What does the boy want ? He's 
mad ! Where did he come from ? " &c. 

Despondingly I returned to the mill, and my fine 
collection, intended for a scientific society at home, 
was destroyed in a short time by a minute species of 
red ants, which ate the skins almost entirely. 

A pair of burrowing owls, a dove, a stilt, and a 
few eggs were all that I succeeded in bringing home 
with me. 

At the mill the season proved to be a busy one. 
Merchants from other provinces visited San Juan, and, 
after disposing of their goods, generally invested their 
returns in wheat, which was sent to the mill to be 
ground. There were no water privileges^ in the inte- 
rior, and the merchants and farmers of Cordova and 
San Luis frequently sent wheat three or four hundred 
miles by troops of mules. My office, therefore, proved 
an advantageous one, as I was enabled to have direct 



220 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

intercourse with people from several of the northern 
and eastern provinces. Among the numbers that I 
became acquainted with were the old-fashioned Rio- 
jano, who came from his distant home to the north of 
the desert, clothed in a heavy frasada, manufactured 
from wool of his own shearing by the industry of his 
wife or daughter. Sometimes the Indian-looking San- 
tiaguenian, or Catamarcan, and the crafty yet polite 
Cordovese, traded at the mill; and many were the little 
gifts that the most respectable portion of my customers 
brought me from their estates far back in the irrigated 
travesia, or along the bases of the Andes. The press 
of business demanded that the mill should be run 
night and day. This compelled the poorer classes that 
came from a distance to sleep in the mill. And at 
night, when all was quiet, save the restless hum of the 
revolving stone, it was a curious sight to peep in at the 
door, and behold the ground covered with sleeping 
forms of men, women, and children of many types and 
complexions — here the offspring of the negro and In- 
dian ; there the child of a Spanish father and Indian 
mother. It was a study worthy the attention of a pro- 
found ethnologist to separate and classify the various 
crosses and mixtures of the different races of the genus 
homo that came to the mill of Don Guillermo Buena- 
parte. 

Leaving the dusty atmosphere of the mill, I frequent- 
ly wandered out into the night air to gaze upon nature 
by moonlight. The canal that watered the district of 
Causete branched off in a different direction from the 
main acquia, and could be traced, as it wound along 
the travesia, by the willows and clumps of reeds that 



AT THE MILL. 221 

grew upon its banks. The Andes towered above the 
plains a few miles to the west, while on the east the 
solid range of the mountains of Cordova, stretching far 
to the north, gave an additional grandeur to the scene. 
The nights were bland and lovely, excepting when the 
wind called the zonda (a sort of sirocco) came from 
the Andes, when the natives suffered from its parching 
heat, and those affected with diseases of the heart 
trembled in expectation of sudden death. 

While I strolled along the banks of the canal the 
mill hummed on as usual, for Don Guillermo had con- 
structed an ingenious method of alarm, by means of 
which the absent or sleepy miller was warned of the 
state of affairs within the building. 

Such was the delight that I took in these rambles 
upon the travesty that duty was in one or two instances 
neglected, and I found, on returning to the mill, that 
some villanous male or degraded female was stealing 
the "millings" from the miller's box, or purloining 
flour from the hide sack of some countryman who was 
fast in the embrace of the "drowsy god. Once or twice, 
on such occasions, I became so vexed as to attempt 
clearing the room of the thievish fellows ; but to ac- 
complish this required a stronger arm than mine, and 
one attempt almost resulted in a general melee ; but 
as the female customers always took sides with the 
gringo, I came off in good condition, and attained my 
object : thus the good name of the mill was not for- 
feited. 

The gauchos love to gamble, and while waiting for 
the mill to do its work, they generally spent the time 
in playing their favorite games, always staking small 



222 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

sums of money upon the chances in order to make the 
time pass more profitably. But whatever might have 
been the rules of the other mills, Don Guillermo soon 
put a stop to what he called a degenerating practice, 
and by various small skirmishes with the gaucho peons, 
he fully demonstrated that his was a North American 
institution, and that, therefore, gambling could not be 
permitted upon his premises. The peons remonstrated, 
but the don was firm. They threatened to ruin his 
business by patronizing the other mills in preference 
to his own ; but as their masters respected the policy 
of my friend, they were restrained from carrying out 
their designs. Thus law and order were firmly estab- 
lished, and North American principles were triumphant. 
It requires no small degree of firmness and knowledge 
of human nature to carry on the flour and grain busi- 
ness in the Argentine Republic. 

Peace and quiet did not last long before a second 
innovation was attempted, although upon a new plan. 
A band of thieves and loafers erected a hut of corn- 
stalks and briers upon the opposite side of the canal, 
in the district of Anjuaco, and the place was once more 
disturbed by midnight revels, and by frequent raids 
upon the grounds of neighboring farmers. Sheep, 
calves, and, even horses, disappeared in a mysterious 
manner. At length Don Guillermo became exasper- 
ated, and watching an opportunity when the rascals 
were absent, he attacked the shanty, levelled it to the 
ground, and, collecting the ruins into one pile, set fire 
to it, and burned it to ashes. 

The party returned, and, on seeing the condition of 
their house, would, in their rage, have demolished the 



SAN JUAN AND ITS PEOPLE. 223 

buildings of the don, had not fear prevented them ; for 
they well knew that the law-and-order man possessed 
fire-arms, dogs, and a stout heart. 

During my stay at the mill I occasionally visited the 
town of San Juan, and passed a few hours with some 
acquaintances. I found, to my surprise, among the 
wealthier citizens, a class of society, which, for dignity 
of deportment, strictness in etiquette, and generous 
hospitality, would favorably compare with any class 
that I have met in the United States or in Europe. 
The young men were intelligent and full of generous 
ardor, and the maidens — how shall I describe them? 
Since returning to North America, my friends have 
sometimes asked if they resembled our Indian women ! 

" Most certainly not," I have almost indignantly an- 
swered. The higher classes of San Juan boast of a 
pure descent from the old Spaniards or Portuguese. 
The fine, clear atmosphere of the Andes provinces has 
affected favorably the complexion, and most of these 
people have a skin as light as that of the inhabitants 
of the southern states of the Union. 

Many of the females, particularly the younger ones, 
have complexions that, in clearness and beauty, would 
rival the blondes of the north. In addition to personal 
beauty, the ladies of San Juan can boast of varied at- 
tractions. The guitar is used with a grace and skill 
that give evidence of careful study and long practice. 
Many play upon the piano, using instruments that have 
been carted a thousand miles over the pampas, from 
the port of Buenos Ayres. 

All can embroider with skill and elegance. Poetry 
appears to be assiduously cultivated among them, and 



224 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

many specimens of true inspiration came to my notice 
that would be considered worthy of the name of Ten- 
nyson or Longfellow. 

Altogether I know of no situation more pleasant, or 
containing more elements of interest and romance, than 
San Juan. It combines every description of scenery, 
from the arid plain of the travesia to the sublime alpine 
ranges; and it has a climate, during many months of 
the year, of surpassing loveliness. 

The San Juaninos are a most hospitable people ; and 
when the remembrance of their unaffected and genial 
kindness comes to my mind, I feel the keenest regret 
that we are so widely separated. 

The town is said to contain about nine thousand in- 
habitants ; but I think the estimate high, although many 
persons have given a larger population. It certainly, 
in numbers, falls below Mendoza. The town is laid out 
in the same manner as was Mendoza, and is watered by 
the canals that run from the River San Juan, a stream 
rising in the Cordillera. 

No goitre exists in this vicinity. I saw only one 
case of it during my stay, and the subject had lived 
many years in Mendoza. 

About the town are large pastures of clover, which 
serve to fatten the numerous herds of cattle that pass 
through the town on the way to Copiapo or Coquimbo, 
in Chili. Soap, raisins, and cattle are among the ex- 
ports to the latter named state. Flour is forwarded to 
the pampa towns, and to the villages on the travesia. 
Wine is made in large quantities, but does not now 
pay a sufficient profit if sent to any considerable dis- 
tance, although it was exported largely in by-gone 



DON JOSE THE PENITENT. 225 

years. All the fruits that grow in Mendoza thrive 
better in this province. The oranges of ,Mendoza 
seemed to possess an acrid taste, but I did not detect 
this in any of the fruits of San Juan. The vineyards 
surpass anything that I have ever seen, — not in the 
culture of the grape, as but little is done to the 
vines, but in the quality of the fruit. I distinguished 
eleven kinds of grapes in the quintas around San 
Juan. 

The iron plough and other improved implements of 
agriculture were unknown, and when I described to 
the quinteros the facility with which the celebrated 
Prouty and Hears centre draught plough is handled, 
tHey fairly overwhelmed me with questions, which had, 
at least, the merit of artlessness. 

There is at San Juan a Board of Water Commission- 
ers, who have charge of the irrigating department. 
These officials are seven in number. They have la- 
bored hard to extend the main canals beyond the villas 
of Causete and Anjaco, even to the very base of the 
Pie de palo, or wooden foot — a sierra some fourteen 
miles east of San Juan. By these means the sterile 
saline travesia is gradually becoming clothed with ver- 
dure, and spreading pastures of clover, surrounded by 
poplars and willows, cover spots that three years since 
were occupied only by scattered thorn-bushes. 

As I have already mentioned, the situation of miller, 
that I filled, was the means of giving me many oppor- 
tunities for meeting and studying different phases of 
character. 

One of my customers, whom I have set down in my 
journal as Don Jose, the penitent, was indeed a study. 
15 



226 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

He was a large-limbed, long-winded, courageous old 
fellow, of the pure Spanish stock, and descended from 
the original conquerors of the Argentine Republic. 1 
had frequently heard his name mentioned by the gau- 
chos, one or two of whom delighted in telling of his 
prowess during the last revolution. The town of San 
Juan had been taken by an armed band while the 
illustrious Benavides was outside the place, and Don 
Jose, who was then an arriero, or muleteer, felt it his 
duty to rescue it from what he considered the wrong 
political party. The cuartel had been taken, and no 
soldiers could be enlisted for the purpose; but Don 
Jose's energy did not fail. He scoured the country 
about San Juan, and collected twenty-five gauchos, 
who followed him to the town. The precipitate entry 
made by the gallant little party ■ struck fear and con- 
sternation into the revolutionists, and Don Jose was 
hailed as deliverer for many weeks. 

The rich people, who had never before noticed him, 
now touched their sombreros, and honored him with 
their praise and approbation. But, as Don Jose said, 
this did not give him money, and he therefore was no 
better in station than before the revolution. He was 
still a peon. After the excitement had died away, 
and rich dons no longer doffed their hats as he passed, 
he sat soberly down and meditated upon how he could 
raise money enough to rent him a farm, for he well knew 
that his industry would soon make him independent, 
provided he could hire a spot of land fit for cultiva- 
tion. Nobody would loan him a peso. 

Our hero, nevertheless, did not despond. He sought 
relief in religion, but in a different manner from that 



DON JOSE THE PENITENT. 227 

* which is usually practised. The don knew that several 
of the churches of the town had large endowments. 
People dying, and wishing to enter a better world, there 
to enjoy a life of bliss, had left sums of money to the 
church, surely not to be applied to charitable purposes, 
for the priests generally require nine dollars for saying 
mass over the body of the poorest child of the church. 
The priests will sometimes lend these moneys upon 
good security, and to pious people, at the low rate of 
five per cent. ; and we may well call this a low rate, 
when, in business transactions, the people of the inte- 
rior towns rarely charge less than eighteen per cent. 

The don, knowing that he had not attended mass 
regularly, did not feel satisfied that his application for 
money to the priests would meet with success, and he 
therefore commenced a plan that, if carried out, would 
insure him all the money that his wants required. He 
resolved to become a penitent. He looked back over 
his past life with sorrow. "I have sinned — have 
sinned more than all others," he said to the other peni- 
tents. " I am resolved to change my mode of life, and 
now I will live for some good purpose." 

Each day his phiz lengthened. "How solemn he 
looks ! " said the friends of his family ; " poor Don 
Jose ! " He lost flesh rapidly, and the brave deliverer 
of the town became feeble as a woman. He attended 
church regularly, was always at the masses, and nevei 
absent from the confessional. He was, in short, a 
model church member. The priests were his friends, 
— not the jolly, fat, laughing padres, but the frizzle- 
headed, stern old fellows, that rarely smiled, and then 
only at the follies of the world. Don Jose fasted a 



228 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

great deal, and then, after advising with his confessor, 
determined to scourge himself, and to pass three days 
in solitary confinement. He bade adieu to his friends, 
and locked himself into a little domicile that belonged 
to the church. Here, in communion with himself, he 
passed three long days and nights without food. With 
a short piece of raw hide he chastised his body, — 
vicariously, probably, after the example of his illustri- 
ous Manchegan countryman, — and spots of blood 
(from the arteries of an ox) were observed upon the 
floor and walls of the chamber when good Father R. 
entered, and who declared that his son had done his 
duty nobly. 

Don Jose had accomplished his object. He could 
be trusted by the clergy now, and it was with pleasure 
that the treasurer-padre gave the sum required by our 
hero. With the borrowed money he rented a farm, 
and I can so far attest to the success of his operations, 
that as I passed his residence I often filled my saddle- 
bag with the fruits of his penitence, which I took to 
the mill to make happy the little cherubs of Don 
Guillermo. 



MINING. 229 



CHAPTER XV. 

A WINTER IN SAN JUAN — CONTINUED. 

WITH the approach of spring, the desert around 
the mill became a constant source of study to 
me. The lagoon near the house was filled with seven 
or eight species of ducks and teals, and occasionally a 
pair of white swans might be seen upon the water, where 
they frequently staid for several days in succession. 
The ducks remained throughout the whole year; and 
before I left Causete, the China or half-breed girls 
were frequently seen swimming into the lagoon, where 
they captured great numbers of the young fowl. 

The green-winged teal, pin-tailed duck, and other 
species of the northern continent, were far from un- 
common. 

One day, while standing in the doorway of the mill, 
attempting to get a glimpse of a dim line of the point 
of the Pie depalo, where I had been told that a beau- 
tiful region, called the " Fertile Valley," lay embosomed 
in trees, my attention was attracted to a dark spot in 
the sierra, which seemed to be a hole in the rock. On 
the following day, at sunset, I $gain distinguished the 
same dark spot: each day it grew larger; and one 
morning an old miner came into the mill, and informed 
me that a company of Chilenos were opening a vein ; 



230 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

the situation of the sierra, the peculiarities of the rock f 
&c., led him to doubt of the practicability of the under- 
taking. How the party succeeded in their search for 
gold I have not yet learned ; but the antecedents of 
the mountain are bad, for when the sierra was discov- 
ered by the early adventurers, in expectation of finding 
gold, they named it Pie de Oro, or " Foot of Gold," 
and afterwards, when they had been disappointed in 
searching for the ore, they dropped the first name, and 
called it that by which it is known at the present day 
— Pie de Palo, or "Wooden Foot." 

The llama and other animals are found in the sierra 
of this section, which are also known — for what reason 
I never could learn — as the mountains of Cordova. 
I had not time to visit the range when in Causete, 
though I much desired to do so, as the old guides and 
miners told many strange stories regarding it. 

One evening, as I was in the mill at work, a servant 
came from the house, saying that Don Guillermo wished 
to see me, and give me an introduction to a guest who 
had just arrived. I repaired to the house, where I 
made the acquaintance of the celebrated gaucho, Diablo 
McGill. As he has quite a local notoriety, I will speak 
of him more fully here than I otherwise would. 

McGill was celebrated above most gauchos for his 
skill in using the lasso, knife, and boliadores, and in the 
management of wild colts. He was the handsomest 
herdsman that I ever saw, and was so polite and easy 
in his intercourse with strangers that I at first doubted 
if he was really the wild gaucho of whom I had heard 
so much. McGill was the owner of a troop of mules; 
he left his native province to follow the wandering life 




DIABLO MCGILL. 231 

of a pampa merchant, because he despised his own 
countrymen, and declared that they were all peons 
(laborers), and not gauchos ; for the province in which 
he was born, being situated upon the desert, at the base 
of the Andes, contained very few cattle-farms, and con- 
sequently the inhabitants were mostly traders, laborers, 
and " loafers." 

He visited the province annually, and while in his na- 
tive town invariably played some mad prank to aston- 
ish the natives, and keep his reputation as a diablo. 

On feast days he dressed himself in the full habili- 
ments of a herdsman, a showy chiropd, finely- wrought 
drawers, heavy silver spurs, &c. His horse was selected 
with care from his corral, and bedecked with silver 
ornaments from the head to the tail, and a costly re- 
cado, or country saddle, placed upon its back. Thus 
equipped, he would sally forth to visit the various pid- 
perias, or drinking-shops, where the gauchos crowded 
to listen to his songs, and tales of mighty deeds trans- 
acted while accompanying his troop of mules across the 
lonely pampas. 

All the seiioritas felt happy when McGill asked them 
to accompany him through la samba cueca, el gato, or 
la mariquita, as the three principal dances are styled, 
and she who could keep the wild gaucho by her side 
for one half hour felt more gratified than if she had 
made a dozen ordinary conquests. But the wild gaucho 
could not love a fair sen orita, though she might be the 
belle of the province. Horses, wild colts, wild bulls, 
and wild gauchos were his chosen companions, and the 
fair sex tried, but in vain, to find some uncovered spot 
upon which to make an impression : he was impenetra- 
ble to the shafts of Cupid. 



232 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

The story is told that, during one of his last visits, 
Don Antonio Moreno, who had always envied the suc- 
cess of McGill, challenged him to prove his skill in the 
use of the lasso. McGill accepted the challenge, and 
entered, lasso in hand, the corral of the jealous Don 
Antonio. 

" I will do more than you challenge me to attempt," 
said our hero, coolly. "Here are five hundred mules 
in this circular yard, and as you drive around the cir- 
cle they run eight or ten abreast. Now, I will stand 
in the middle, and as they pass around me you are to 
call out which mule you wish lassoed, and upon what 
leg or part of the body the animal is to be noosed. 
This you must do when the particular beast is in front 
of me, so that I can throw the lasso when she is behind 
me. As fast as one is caught, you are to remove her 
from the corral. Thus will I catch each of the five 
hundred mules, without missing a single throw, and 
catch them while they pass behind my back. Will 
that satisfy you, Don Antonio Moreno ? " 

The other party looked incredulous. Don Antonio 
was himself a first-rate gaucho and rastreador / he had 
seen good lassoing, but this offer seemed preposterous. 

" Go on, McGill," he said, with a contemptuous shrug 
of the shoulders. " When you have caught five hun- 
dred mules behind your back, I will pay you well for 
your trouble." 

The gaucho took his place in the centre of the yard, 
and, as the mules were driven around the circle, threw 
his lasso with unerring skill ; first one, then another, 
then a third, rolled over upon the ground, always fall- 
ing upon the head in a particular manner. 



A GAUCHO'S SKILL. 233 

Don Antonio suspected the gaucho, and perceiving 
his object in throwing the mules upon their heads, pro- 
tested against it. 

" You will break the necks of half of thern ! " he ex- 
claimed to the gaucho, who at the same moment, with 
a dexterous jerk on the lasso, sent another mule, stunned, 
upon the ground. 

" Stop ! " he shouted. " McGill, what mean you by 
throwing the mules in that manner ? " 

" What do I mean ? " replied the herdsman, as an- 
other mule shared the same fate of the last one. "What 
do I mean ? Why, man, I mean to break the necks of 
all your mules, that I may give you a certain proof that 
I can throw the lasso equal to, and better than, any 
San Juanino." 

" Enough ! enough ! " replied the excited don. "You 
have proved it ; there is no necessity of further effort. 
Besides, these mules are to be driven across the Cor- 
dillera into Chili, and if you break their necks it's 
money out of my pocket. Had we not better enter 
the house ? I believe Dona Trinidad is ready to serve 
mateP 

When McGill rode forth upon a feast day as Gaucho 
Portefio, or Buenos Ayrean herdsman, the peons of 
San Juan gazed with astonishment upon his rich trap- 
pings. I have the list of articles that he and his ani- 
mal wore. Upon his favorite black horse were first 
placed three bageras^ or skins, to preserve the animal's 
back from the chafing of saddle-gear. Upon these 
were laid a heavy, fine-wrought jergon, or blanket, to 
absorb the perspiration ; over these were laid, first, a 
corona de vaca, or cow's hide covering, to give firmness 



234 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

to the saddle; secondly, a corona of fine leather, to 
hide the rougher pieces beneath. 

The latter article, which was richly embossed, was 
very ornamental, and drew from the gauchos many ad- 
miring remarks. Upon this platform, or foundation, 
the recardo was placed, and kept firmly in position by 
a wide cincha, or girth, cut from softened, untanned 
hide. Apellon, or sheepskin, was laid upon the saddle, 
and kept in its place by a smaller girth. The pellon 
was then covered with a small piece of embroidered 
cloth, worked by the hands of some fair damsel. The 
lasso lay upon the animal's croup, behind the rider, and 
was attached to an iron ring in the broad cincha. A 
pair of alforjas, or saddle-bags, were thrown across the 
peak of the saddle, and around the animal's neck hung 
a leather rope, the biador, used to tie him when feed- 
ing, though the lasso is generally employed for that 
purpose. 

Upon the peak of the saddle were swung the chifles, 
two cows' horns, in which was carried wine or water, — 
fluids absolutely indispensable upon the travesia of San 
Luis. 

From beneath the left side of the coronas, close by 
the peak of the saddle, peeped the three balls, the well- 
known boliadores (called in most works of travel bolas), 
with which the gaucho secures game while upon the 
road. 

Hanging from the fiador was a pair of manes, or 
shackles, for the horse's fore feet, which serve the same 
purpose as a pair of handcuffs. If the rider wishes to 
leave his horse in the street, where many travellers are 
passing, he places the manes upon the animal's fore 



THE RASTREADOR. 235 

legs, and it is only with great difficulty that the beast 
can slowly move about. Lastly, the bridle, a magnifi- 
cent article, formed of leather, and thickly studded 
with silver plates, and the horse was equipped. 
McGill was dressed in the gala costume of a Buenos 
Ayrean gaucho, with drawers of the finest needlework, 
and the chiropa, that covered his loins, of costly silk. 
From this description the reader can gain some idea 
of a fast man among the gauchos, for such was the 
guest of Don Guillermo. 

In this connection I may devote a few lines to a 
character well known throughout the Provinces of La 
Plata — the rastreador, or trailer. 

While the mill was in operation one afternoon, I had 
occasion to leave the building, in order to let on more 
water from the acquia. While attending to the flood- 
gate, I saw an old man slowly approaching the mill, 
with his eyes bent upon the ground. He frequently 
stopped to inspect the soil ; then, continuing his course, 
he passed the mill, and crossed the rude bridge that 
spanned the canal. Continuing along the travesia in 
the district of Anjuco, he was soon lost among the 
thorn trees and thickets of mate-gusano. I thought no 
more of the old man, supposing that he had probably 
lost some article, and was searching for it. An hour 
later he returned to the mill, and said a few words to 
Don Guillermo and several gauchos, who were waiting 
for their respective turns at the hopper. In an instant 
the room was vacated ; the party dispersed along the 
road, and as they occasionally came together near the 
mill, I could see the old man giving some advice, upon 
which the gauchos again dispersed. The party returned 



236 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

about eight o'clock, and from the peons I learned that 
the old man was a trailer. He had been walking along 
the road, and had noticed a footprint that struck him 
as "deceitful." He said that a man had passed the 
mill about three o'clock, and that the man was a rob- 
ber. " For he was dressed," said the trailer, " in woman's 
clothes. There are places along his trail that prove he 
held the dress up with his hands ; in others it trailed 
along the ground. He wore a woman's shoe, which 
did not fit him; his foot was broad, the shoe long and 
narrow. He walked in some places, and ran through 
the thickets. No man dresses in woman's garb with- 
out some bad intent." 

"He is somewhere among the ranchos of Anjuco." 

Wonderful to state, news came from town the next 
day that several men had dressed themselves in female 
attire, and in that disguise had visited the stores in the 
Calle Ancho, or Broadway, where they had purloined 
many articles, which the rogues had hidden beneath 
their dresses. It was the trail of one of these dresses 
that the old rastreador had struck. 

The patriot Sarmiento, a San Juanino by birth, says 
of the characteristics of these men, the trailers, — 

" Once, as I was crossing a path that led into the 
Buenos Ayres road, the muleteer that conducted me 
cast his eyes upon the ground, as was his custom, and 
said a very good black mule passed here yesterday ; she 
had an easy gait, and was saddled; she belongs to the 

troop of Don . This man was coming from the 

sierra of San Luis ; the troop was returning from Bue- 
nos Ayres. 

"A year had passed since he had seen the black 



SKILL OF A TRAILER. 237 

mule, the track of which was confused with those of a 
whole troop, in a path not more than two feet wide. 
But this keenness of perception, so apparently incredi- 
ble, is a faculty common to every gaucho ; this man was 
a mere muleteer, and not a professional trailer." 

He also describes another trailer in La Vida deJuan, 
Facundo Quiroga, as follows : — 

"I knew a trailer by the name of Calibar, who had 
practised his profession in one province during forty 
successive years. He is now nearly eighty years old, 
and though bowed with age, still retains a venerable 
and dignified appearance. 

" When they speak to him of his fabulous reputation, 
he answers, 'I am now useless; these are my children.' 
It is said of him that during a trip that he made to 
Buenos Ayres a saddle was stolen from his house. 

" His wife covered the robber's track with a wooden 
bowl. Two months later Calibar returned home, and 
saw the almost obliterated footprint, that to other eyes 
was imperceptible, and nothing more was said of the 
occurrence. A year and a half afterwards Calibar was 
walking along a street in the suburbs of the town, with 
his head inclined towards the ground. He entered a 
house, and found a saddle, blackened, and almost worth- 
less from use ; he had found the trail of the robber after 
a lapse of two years. 

"During the ye.ar 1830 a criminal had escaped from 
jail, and Calibar was charged to find him. The un- 
happy man, knowing that he would be tracked, had 
taken all the precautions which the fear of the scaffold 
could invent. 

" Useless precautions ! Perhaps they only served to 



238 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

insnare him, for Calibar felt that his reputation might 
be compromised, and self-pride caused him to acquit 
himself well. 

"The runaway took every advantage of the uneven- 
ness of the ground so as to baffle his pursuer ; but his 
efforts only proved the marvellous sight of the rastre- 
ador. 

" He walked the whole length of streets on, tiptoe, 
then climbed low walls, crossed a pasture, and returned 
in his own track. 

"Calibar followed without losing the trail. If he 
momentarily missed it, it was soon recovered. At last 
he arrived at a canal of water in the suburbs, where 
the fugitive had followed the current, to foil the trail- 
er. But in vain ! Calibar followed along the shore 
without any uneasiness, and at last stopped to examine 
some grass, with the words, 4 At this place he came 
out; there is no track, but these drops of water in the 
pasture indicate it.' 

"The fugitive had entered a vineyard. Calibar sur- 
veyed with his eye the walls that surrounded it, and 
said, c He is within.' The party of soldiers that at- 
tended him sought in the vineyard without success. 
At length they became tired of hunting, and returned 
to report the uselessness of their search. i He has not 
come out,' was the brief answer which the trailer gave, 
without moving himself, or proceeding to a new ex- 
amination. He had not come out, indeed; another 
search discovered him, and on the following day he 
was executed." 



THE ZONDA WIND. 239 



CHAPTER XVI. 

VIENTE DE ZONDA. 

IN a preceding chapter I made reference to the 
viente de zonda, or zonda wind ; and as the history 
of it is imperfectly known in the northern continent, I 
will here speak of it to some extent. 

The viente de zonda may be called a local wind, as 
it blows only in the vicinity of the province of San 
Juan, the town where the following observations were 
made. 

San Juan, the capital of the province, lies at the 
eastern base of the Andes, three or four leagues dis- 
tant from the outer sierra, south latitude 31° 4? (Mo- 
lina), longitude 68° 57' west (Arrowsmith). Behind 
the first range in a valley are four or five farms, which 
constitute the hamlet of Zonda, from which the wind 
is named. It blows at all seasons, though during July 
and August (midwinter) it is most frequent. This 
wind is hot and parching to the skin, and brings with 
it clouds of dust and fine sand. 

All persons leave their work, and seek refuge in 
their houses, while frequently the huts of the gauchos 
are blown down by the force of the wind. Most per- 
sons are troubled with severe headaches. Those who 
have been suffering from diseases of the heart find their 



240 • A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

complaints greatly aggravated, and frequently there 
are cases of sudden death. Three or four years since, 
five persons fell dead during the zondas in the month 
of August. The wind lasts sometimes two or three 
hours ; at other times, forty-eight hours, though this 
long duration is rare. While the zonda is at its height, 
a few puffs of cold air from the south announce a 
change, and immediately the weather-cock veers from 
east and west to north and south, and a cold wind, 
equally as strong as the hot zonda, then prevails from 
the south. All nature is refreshed by the change, and 
men resume their abandoned labors. 

In searching through the works of the very few 
authors who have visited the interior of the Argentine 
states (all but one or two of whom were Europeans), I 
find that only one mentions the existence of this phe- 
nomenon ; and he did not, probably, visit the town 
where my observations were made, which locality is 
considered by the natives as the northern limit of the 
zondas. 

John Miers, the author of an interesting work on 
the Provinces of La Plata and Chili, remained a short 
time in Mendoza. He states that this southern locality 
is annoyed by winds that blow during the summer 
months from the valley of Zonda, and notes the fact 
that two dark clouds came from the north-west, and 
hovered over the town during the greater part of the 
night, and in the morning everything that had been 
exposed to the air was covered with fine sand, which 
was of a light gray color, and slightly magnetic. It 
was Miers's opinion that "a souffriere, or active vol- 
cano," existed to the northward of San Juan, from 



COURSE OF THE ZONDA. 241 

which the hurricanes and showers of sand originated. 
Had Mr. Miers visited San Juan, his view of the posi- 
tion of the volcano would, undoubtedly, have been 
changed; for though the zondas reach Mendoza to 
the south, the direction of the wind when it strikes 
that place differs from the line it follows when it 
rushes with violence upon the northern town. At 
San Juan it conies due west from the Andes. Hence 
the starting-point of the zonda cannot be to the north 
of the town, as Miers conjectured. According to the 
account of the natives, the zonda of San Juan does not 
cover a broader space than ten or fifteen miles after it 
leaves the sierra of Zonda. 

Taking this into consideration, in connection with 
Miers's statement that the Mendoza zonda comes from 
the north-west, differing, as it will be seen, four points 
from the northern town, we may infer that the Men- 
doza and San Juan zondas do not blow at the same 
time. If this is true, it is an interesting fact, showing 
that this peculiar' wind does not always follow the 
same track. 

Miers further states that these are summer winds in 
Mendoza. From personal observation, and by reliable 
accounts of educated San Juaninos, I found that they 
were more particularly the winter winds ; at least they 
are more frequent during that season. Invalids suffer- 
ing from pneumonical diseases and complaints affect- 
ing the heart and liver, anticipate the month of August 
(midwinter) with consternation, and their anxiety is 
not quieted until they have passed through the dread- 
ed ordeal. 

While passing the winter in San Juan, I noted the 
16 



242 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

courses of upwards of twenty zondas. Some were of 
short duration ; others lasted eighteen or twenty hours. 
During the latter part of August, as I was standing 
upon the saline desert, a few miles east of San Juan, 
my attention was attracted by a cloud of dust that 
appeared to roll through the air as it approached me. 
I started for a shelter, and had hardly reached it when 
the zonda swept past, filling the air with fine yellow 
sand. The temperature of the previously sultry at- 
mosphere suddenly rose many degrees, and the occu- 
pants of the neighboring huts were affected with severe 
headaches. I noted, with a compass, the course of the 
wind, which was west. All night and through the fol- 
lowing day and night, the wind continued blowing with 
undiminished force. Each hour the vane beside the 
hut was consulted, and the same course as at first was 
always observed. A few hours before the wind ceased 
the sand showers were exhausted. The greatest heat 
was during the first few hours ; and this is always the 
case if the zonda commences during the day. After 
continuing for thirty-six hours the change came. It 
was instantaneous. The hot wind seemed cut off at 
right angles by a cold wind from the south. The 
change could not have occupied more than forty sec- 
onds. The south wind lasted twenty hours, and was 
as violent as the hot zonda. In speaking of the Men- 
doza zondas, Miers does not mention the succession of 
the south wind. It is easy to comprehend that, after 
so large an area has become filled with heated air, the 
effect will be felt in the cooler regions of the south, 
and a strong current from that direction will rush in 
to restore the atmospheric equilibrium. Hence the 
cause of the south wind succeeding the zonda. 



ORIGIN OF ZONDA. 243 

Miers believed that the origin of the zondas was vol- 
canic, and a corroboration of his views is found in the 
work of Sir Woodbine Parish, in which he states that 
the volcano Penguenes, which is situated about one 
hundred miles south-west from Mendoza, and reaches 
an altitude of nearly fifteen thousand feet above the 
level of the sea, emits clouds of ashes and pumice-dust. 
This dust is carried by the winds as far as Mendoza, 
but these clouds do not strike the town with the force 
of the San Juan zonda. The pumice-dust is borne 
along by variable winds. From this fact we may infer 
that the fine sand of the zondas comes from a similar 
source. The most important question is, Where origi- 
nates the hot and parching wind that always accom- 
panies, and is peculiar to, the zondas? The old 
guides, who are familiar with the valleys of the Andes, 
informed me that these winds blow from off the main 
snow-clad ridge of that great chain of mountains, and 
expressed their surprise at the fact " that from a cold 
region comes a burning wind." 

Strong and steady winds generally follow a direct 
line. This fact is characteristic of the zondas. If 
Miers's conjecture be true regarding the origin of these 
winds, the position of the volcano, or souffriere, might 
be found by observing the following suggestion, bear- 
ing in mind that the Mendoza wind comes from the 
north-west, and the San Juan zonda from the west. 
That point where two lines — one running west from 
the northern town, the other north-west from the 
southern town — will intersect, is the starting-point 
of the sand clouds, if not of the accompanying hot 
wind. 



244 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Looking upon the map of South America, we find in 
the Cordillera of the Andes, between the latitudes of 
San Juan and Mendoza, four peaks marked as doubtful 
volcanoes : Limari, directly west of San Juan ; Chuapu, 
thirty miles farther south ; and near the half-way point 
of the two towns, Ligua. To the north of west of 
Mendoza stands prominent the lofty Aconcagua, that 
has been estimated by two English captains to have an 
elevation of twenty-three thousand nine hundred feet. 
The point of intersection of the west and north-west 
zonda lines is in the vicinity of Limari and Chuapu, 
and, if not either of these, the zonda volcano is a near 
neighbor to them. 



ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO. 245 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLERMO BUENAPARTE. 

DURING the months that I remained with Don 
Guillermo, I studied well the character of mine 
host ; and so generous were his sentiments, and kind 
his heart, that each day my attachment for him in- 
creased. His life had been a curious one ; and as we 
sat by the table, one morning, imbibing a mate, I urged 
him to give me some account of his peregrinations 
since leaving his native land. Grasping my hand, with 
tears visible in his eyes, he said, " My friend, if you 
will promise to search out my relatives, when you 
return to North America, and give them my history, 
I will willingly answer your request." A brasero of 
coals having been placed beneath the table, around 
which the members of the household were seated, 
Don Guillermo commenced his recital. 

"At eighteen years of age, certain family troubles 
occurred, and being a proud-spirited youth, I changed 
my quiet life on shore for an adventurous one upon 
the ocean. From my own village I proceeded to the 
great metropolis, New York, and was directed, after 
some inquiry, to a shipping office, the proprietor of 
which informed me that he was procuring a large 
crew for a vessel, owned, and then lying, at New 



246 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Bedford. The first question asked by this gentleman 
was, i Have you been round the Horn ? ' As this was 
to be my first trip upon salt water, I informed him to 
that effect. 'Well,' continued he, 'that's bad enough. 
Now, you see, I have already shipped all the green 
hands that are wanted, and the old man sent word 
down from Bedford forbidding me to take any others 
than such as have made one or two voyages. But 
don't get discouraged at trifles; we will settle that 
matter : follow me.' 

"In the centre of the room was a post or pillar, upon 
which was a cow's horn; and round this he walked 
twice, I following close upon his heels. ' Now,' said 
the shipping master, 'if any man, sailor or monkey, 
says that you haven't been round the Horn, just give 
him the lie. You can sign these articles, and go up 
to Bedford to-morrow morning, with a dozen likely 
young men, who are going to sea for their health, and 
they will enjoy themselves, I don't doubt, as there are 
several gentlemen's sons among the crew.' I was 
amused at this comical way of weathering the Horn, 
and asked him if it would not be advisable to inform 
our captain of the quick passage I had made ; but the 
old fellow silenced me by stating that he had shipped 
hundreds of sailors (?) in the same way, and they had 
all given satisfaction. 

" I left New Bedford, a few days later, in the Golconda, 
and, after a good run round the Horn, we touched at 
several places on the coast of Chili, at one of which 
I left the vessel, and secretly joined a pearl and whale 
ship that was bound to the Galapagos Islands, with 
the intention of procuring supplies of wood and tor- 



TERRAPIN ISLAND. 247 

toises, the latter being a good remedy for scurvy. The 
first land made after leaving the coast of Chili was 
the rock of Dunda, which rises some hundreds of feet 
above the level of the sea. Here the boats were low- 
ered to catch a species of fish that weighed about six 
•pounds, and found in large schools close in to the rock. 
vVith pieces of pork and white rags greased, we caught 
in a few hours several barrels full, which were taken 
on board the ship and salted down. While fishing, 
the mate caught on his hook a large serpent, eight or 
nine feet in length, covered with scales, and nearly as 
large as a man's leg. It came into the boat with severe 
struggles, during which it knocked the mate senseless, 
and two Dutchmen, from fright, jumped into the sea. 
This rock is supposed to have once belonged to the 
Galapagos, being in the same range, and, with a fair 
wind, is but a few hours' sail from the principal mem- 
bers of that group. 

"The ship, which had been lying off and on, was now 
put before the wind, and we steered for an uninhabited 
island of the Galapagos, called Terrapin Island, and, 
when near it, a party of picked men were lowered in 
the boats, with orders to collect all the wood and tor- 
toise that could be procured. The three boats' crews, 
upon landing, found the island to be composed of pum- 
ice-stone, probably thrown from a volcano in its centre. 
Next the beach was a narrow strip of land, covered 
with a light growth of wood, which did not extend 
forty rods inland ; and though immediate search was 
made for water, not a drop could be found. One of 
the crew asserted that inland grew a stunted prickly 
pear, and dwarf camphor tree. We were full of fun, 



248 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

and each boasted that he knew where to hunt for the 
largest tortoise ; and a party of four, including myself, 
set out together, each promising to return with a gigan- 
tic one. As we journeyed inland, the surface of the 
island became more irregular, and was filled with deep 
cracks or chasms, the bottoms of which, in many in- 
stances, could not be discerned. These fissures de- 
scended far below the level of the sea; and, hoping to 
discover fresh water, we descended into several, but 
they were all dry and warm as ovens. The rocks 
around us were porous, and therefore must have ab- 
sorbed the water that fell when it rained, which, in 
these parts of the world, is a rare occurrence. Among 
the rocks abounded a sort of lizards, with long tails, 
called iguanas. 

" After wandering several miles and not meeting with 
tortoises, a portion of the party concluded to ''bout 
ship ' and return, when a dispute arose regarding the 
true direction to the bay where the ship lay, and we 
parted, I following the course that appeared to be the 
true one, while my three companions set out upon an 
entirely different one. I continued on until the shades 
of evening enveloped the island, and made the volcano 
look like a grim giant. Here I should have rested 
until morning, as much suffering would have been pre- 
vented ; but, feeling confident that my course was 
right, I travelled on in the dark, and, as I afterwards 
learned, passed the bay without being aware of its 
proximity. At last, exhausted with walking, I lay 
down to sleep upon the pumice-stone; but the heat 
was so great, that I was obliged to turn from side to 
side with the torture it inflicted; for the sun's heat 



AN UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT. 249 

had been absorbed during the day by these rocks, 
and it was now given off with an intensity that was 
truly astonishing. I lighted my pipe and tried to for- 
get my troubles ; but, almost dying with thirst, and 
scorched with the slow fire beneath me, the night wore 
heavily away. When morning came, I examined my 
stock of matches, and found that three remained, be- 
sides a little tobacco, and, carefully putting these in a 
safe pocket, I directed my steps to the tall mountain, 
which appeared to be but a few miles distant. By so 
doing, chance might favor me, as the men had said, the 
previous day, that the prickly pear grew in the interior; 
but my great object was to find water. 

" When the sun had reached the meridian, a pair of 
new double-soled shoes, which I had on, were worn or 
burned through ; I had found no water, and the 
mountain appeared farther off than it did when I saw 
it the previous morning. 

" Thanks to a good Providence, this misery was soon 
to be ended, at least for a time ; for while journeying 
along late in the afternoon, with feet bleeding at every 
step, I espied a little green hill that peeped above the 
rocks, and with renewed energy I pushed forward, and 
sank fainting at its base. 

11 1 soon recovered from the exhaustion caused by my 
sufferings, and as darkness came on, sleep overpowered 
and wrapped me in its embrace. It was after midnight 
(so I judged by the height of the Southern Cross) when 
I woke with a curious feeling caused by suffocation. 
Recalling my scattered senses, I beheld a huge pair of 
jaws and two horrid eyes close to my face, while a 
clawed foot rested upon each shoulder. I trembled in 



250 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

every limb, but did not lose my self-possession ; and 
now I laugh to think that the cause of my trepidation 
was nothing more than a harmless iguana— a large 
species of lizard. A single movement of my body 
caused him to slide from his place and drag his ugly 
form away ; but he did not choose to end his antics 
here ; several hours he continued the annoyance, and 
determined to make the best of his affectionate ways. 
I threw a piece of pumice-stone at him, and Mr. 
Iguana lay senseless among the rocks. Cutting the 
reptile's throat and catching the blood in the heel of 
my dilapidated shoe, I drank it as if it had been a bev- 
erage of cool milk. With refreshed vigor I ascended 
the hill. It was covered with grass, and little trees 
resembling the American beech grew upon it. Flocks 
of birds were flying about, and their songs revived my 
spirits. 

" Commencing a search for water, I discovered a deep 
fissure, at the bottom of which some shining substance 
attracted my attention, and feeling certain that it was 
water, I descended into the chasm. Again was I doomed 
to disappointment. A soft, damp mud covered the 
bottom, in which hundreds of tiny tracks told me that 
birds had visited the spot, and that the water which 
had fallen from the clouds had been drank or absorbed 
by the soil. Had I been a student of natural history, 
an hour could have been whiled away in the study of 
ornithichnites ; but, dropping all thoughts of science, I 
made balls of the mud and sucked the moisture they 
contained,. then climbed into the open air. The birds 
were exceedingly tame, and suffered me to approach 
and knock them down with a stick. In this I beheld 



DON GUILLERMO'S SUFFERINGS. 251 

the beneficence of Providence, for here was food for 
many days. After killing several, I attempted to light 
a fire with the three matches before mentioned. All 
three failed. I ate two birds in a raw state, and went 
in search of an iguana to procure more blood to quench 
my thirst. The sides of the hill were perforated with 
the burrows of this animal, into which it crept, leaving 
the tail outside. I caught hold of one lusty fellow's 
appendage, but was too weak to pull him out ; he beat 
me from side to side, and I sat down upon a rock in 
despair. 

" The next day, when about to leave the hill, a sin- 
gular fact attracted my attention. The birds left in 
flocks, and winging their way towards the big moun- 
tain, returned in twenty or thirty minutes. 

" Following them for some time with my eyes, I con- 
cluded that it was for water that they left the green 
hill ; and carefully marking their flight, I followed them ; 
but, weak and exhausted, after travelling nearly a mile 
across ridges that became more and more difficult to 
surmount, it seemed advisable to return. An attempt 
to capture a young iguana was successful, and this 
quenched my thirst, while a few birds' legs kept star- 
vation at a distance. Another night's rest revived my 
courage, and I determined, come what might, to make 
one more effort to reach the sea-coast. Another day's 
travel being over, I slept upon the pumice-stone a few 
miles from the hill. One more day of suffering, and 
when Night spread her mantle over the island, I knew 
too well that mental derangement was coming; but 
still one idea had possession of my mind — Onward, 
onward ! 



252 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

" I crossed a little ridge, and saw something white at 
its base ; for the moon had risen, and shed its light over 
the burning island of pumice-stone. I lowered myself 
into a chasm, and examined it. My brain became set- 
tled and attention fixed; and with horror I laid my 
hand upon the skeleton of a man lying upon his face, 
with a large tortoise bound to his back by a piece of 
ratlin. . Poor fellow ! he had, undoubtedly, while 
making his way to his ship, missed his footing, and 
fallen in such a way that he was wedged in and kept 
down by the great weight upon his back: perhaps 
the fall itself killed him." " But," said I, " why did not 
his captain send men to search for him ? " " By ask- 
ing such a question, my friend," begun Don Guillermo, 
" you show your ignorance of the character of a captain 
of a whaler. Do you think, if the captain wished to 
make sail, he would wait even one day to seek for one 
of his crew ? If you wish to satisfy yourself on this 
point, try a voyage in a New Bedford whaleship, and 
you will soon be assured that my opinion is true." 

Don Guillermo continued his narrative. 

" This affecting sight filled my mind with thoughts 
both joyful and dismal — joyful, because I knew that 
the coast was at hand, for the experience of the few 
days past had taught me that the tortoise does not 
wander far inland — dismal, because it might be pre- 
monitive of my own fate. With a giddy head I con- 
tinued on my way. Of the events which occurred 
from that time I have but a dim recollection. I faintly 
remember wandering on for many hours, and sleeping 
upon the heated rocks — the light of day coming again, 
when my journey was continued; the sound of rushing 



RESCUED. 253 

waters — and then my vision became clearer. I re- 
member the white sandy beach that seemed covered 
with eggs, and the ringing noise in my ears — the 
screaming of the sea-birds. All this passed through 
my brain with the rapidity of lightning; then, rush- 
ing frantically to the sea, I swallowed greedily large 
draughts of water. The cove was filled with other 
swimmers, that gnashed and gritted their teeth, as if 
mocking my suffering. They were, in reality, seals; 
but, almost a maniac, I jumped about among them 
(so others afterwards informed me), cutting all kinds 
of pranks ; at which the whole school retreated with 
fear. All then became a blank to me. 

" I was next aroused by the voices of people engaged 
in conversation, together with the strong smell of 
liquors, and, opening my eyes, I found myself in a 
comfortable berth in the cabin of a vessel, which, by a 
perceptible motion, I knew to be under way. 'He 
has come to,' said a rough voice; 'there's nothing 
like an internal as well as external application of 
brandy.' Two or three persons came to the berth, and 
questioned me regarding my 'island excursion.' Their 
various applications had restored my system to a com- 
parative degree of vigor; and, assisted by the second 
officer, I went on deck to behold the shores of Terrapin 
Island sinking below the horizon. 

" The name of this vessel was Henry Astor ; she was 
a Nantucket whaler, and her captain, my deliverer 
from a melancholy fate, was Pinkham. I would give 
his name in full, every letter of it, had not nearly 
sixteen years of wandering obliterated it from my 
memory. 



254 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

" A few days' sail brought us to the Marquesas Islands, 
and by that time the sea air and good living had per- 
fectly restored me to health, and I was eager for new 
adventures. Our captain proposed remaining here a 
few days, in order to procure fresh provisions, and trade 
was commenced with the natives by bartering hoop- 
iron, knives, beads, &c, in exchange for pigs, yams, 
cocoanuts, and other fruits. A small, uninhabited island 
near by was resorted to by the islanders for fishing, 
and our captain sent our boats to secure a supply 
for the men. We met a party of natives with canoes 
on one side of the island, and we became very friendly 
in our intercourse with them. 

" The boat returned to the ship without me, but con- 
veyed a message to the effect that I should not return. 
The reason for so doing was satisfactory to the sailors. 
Our second officer was a Portuguese, and a vile fellow. 
He so exasperated his watch while on the passage from 
Terrapin Island, that they were now ripe for mutiny ; 
and having no interest in their affairs, I did not wish 
to be one of their number longer. The Henry Astor 
would not return to North America for two or three 
years, and homeward-bound vessels (whalers) some- 
times touched at the Marquesas. Thus, if I remained 
with the natives, there was a chance of my being taken 
off by a better-omened ship than the one I had just 
left. The next day a pearler hove in sight, and ran 
close in to land. I raised a signal, and was soon taken 
on board. The vessel steered for Hiva-oa, # sometimes 

* Hiva-oa is about seventy miles south-west of Nukuheva, 
the island upon which Mr. Herman Melville, the author of " Ty- 
pee," passed four months among the islanders. 



A FORBIDDEN VISIT. 255 

called Dominica, and commenced business in good ear- 
nest. The natives were employed to dive for us in 
four or five fathoms of water. In this they were very 
expert, and some of them could remain four minutes 
under water. They swam off to our boats every morn- 
ing, and worked all day, receiving in payment for their 
labor pieces of red flannel and bright-colored calico. 

" Strict orders were repeated to us every morning re- 
garding our duties for the day. We were forbidden to 
go within a certain distance of the shore, as the natives 
were very treacherous, having captured and eaten an 
English boat's crew a short time before (1840 or '41). 
Three days passed very pleasantly, when, upon the 
fourth, word was given to be diligent, as the vessel 
would sail for the coast of Japan with the first fair 
wind. c What ! ' exclaimed one of the boat's crew to 
which I belonged, 'are we to leave without setting 
foot on Hiva-oa? Shiver my timbers if I don't go 
ashore to-morrow night, after work is done ! and the 
old man may send the whole ship's company after me, 
if he likes.' To this expression the other two agreed, 
and, not wishing to be behind my comrades, I consented 
also ; and before retiring to sleep we had made arrange- 
ments for a visit to the dreaded cannibal islands. 

" The next morning the boats' crews commenced work 
as usual, and at four bells in the afternoon returned to 
the ship. This w T as the time agreed upon for carrying 
out our design. The natives, who were with us during 
the day, had swam ashore, and disappeared among the 
cocoa-nut groves, and the only living objects in sight 
were a party of women, and two or three old men, the 
former engaged in various diversions, and the latter 



256 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

sitting like statues near them. It was the custom of 
these females to collect in groups near the sea-shore 
during the day, and watch their husbands and lovers, 
who were hard at work diving for the pearl-oyster ; and 
taking advantage of this circumstance, we came pre- 
pared for the party. Upon landing, we distributed 
from our well-filled pockets various little presents, and 
were at once treated with the greatest kindness. The 
looking-glass that we brought filled them with aston- 
ishment, and Cram, a young Pennsylvania^, was en- 
deavoring to teach them the philosophy of it by all 
sorts of gestures, when a low murmur caused us to look 
seaward ; and lo ! a long line of men, the fathers, broth- 
ers, and lovers of the female party, were advancing 
towards us, and as we hastily rose to depart, they 
pointed towards the interior, and made signs for us to 
go inland. 

" Too late we perceived our boyish error ; the boat 
had been secured, and there was no chance for retreat, 
and sullenly we marched on in advance of the island- 
ers. All the way Cram grumbled at the fate that might 
be ours. He blessed his top-lights, then cursed them, 
the women, who followed, laughing all the while at his 
curious physiognomy. As we drew near the end of a 
beautiful valley, in which the natives dwelt, Cram felt 
quite at home, and remarked that it was not ' much of 
any consequence where a person lived. These fellows,' 
said he, c have plenty to eat, and don't have to turn to 
every morning while in port, or every watch when at 
sea. If the king here will give me his daughter, I will 
settle down on a farm after swallowing my sheet an- 
chor;' and putting a quid of tobacco in his mouth, he 



AMONG THE ISLANDERS. 257 

squirted the juice right and left among the crowd, who 
became wild with mirth. 

"Thanks to our previous kind treatment to the island- 
ers, upon arriving at their village they gave us to un- 
derstand that we should receive no harm. We did not 
go through any trial, or appear before any council ; but 
by gestures they made known to us that each of our 
number could choose a place of residence from among 
the two or three hundred habitations in the valley. I 
fancied that of an old man, who must have been, in his 
younger days, a great warrior, as his body was covered 
with scars, and one longitudinal one, that, commencing 
upon his forehead, and ending with the chin, excited 
my amazement, for the skull had evidently been split 
by some weapon, from the effects of which he sometimes 
labored under temporary insanity. At Cram's sugges- 
tion, we christened him c Old Split Head.' The three 
other sailors were quartered in habitations near my 
own, and for a few days we lived contentedly enough, 
every wish being anticipated and satisfied by these 
kind people. 

" One morning, about a week after our capture, while 
talking together, the conversation was suddenly inter- 
rupted by the booming of cannon, and we arose to go 
down to the beach, but were prevented by our captors. 
Report after report followed, and echoed among the 
hills that divided the island into separate parts. I was 
convinced by these sounds that our ship had got under 
way, and was exercising her two or three rusty guns 
for our benefit. But what seemed stranger than all 
was, that these reports came from the opposite side of 
the island, and from an entirely different direction from 
17 



258 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

her former anchorage. Cram laughed at my opinions, 
and harangued the other two after this fashion : ' He 
says that it's our craft that's making all that noise. I'll 
sell myself for a sea-cook if it isn't one of those parlez- 
vous French men-o'-war that's come along, and heard 
that we are among this confounded set. Now, ship- 
mates, what say you? Here we have been loafing 
about like a set of lobster marines, doing nothing, nor 
serving mankind, and it's a certain fact that we have 
got to be laid up here until we get away. Now, I, for 
one, am heartily tired of this wasting of energies; and 
as for living here listening to these cocoa-nut eaters, 
who expect to tattoo us into Davy Jones's locker, I 
won't; so come along. We can make a straight course 
across those big hills yonder, and then hurrah for Johnny 
Crapo's boats. If you will all start, I'll agree to steer 
my trick to-night, if it is aboard a French man-o'-war.' 
The two sailors were overpowered by Cram's eloquence, 
and swore roundly that they would follow him, if he 
set out instantly. 

" Now, all the while the natives had been watching 
us, and when the orator, during his speech, pointed to 
the hills, they at once comprehended their prisoners' 
intentions, and, coming forward, an old man, better 
dressed than the others, gave us to understand, through 
signs, that upon the other side of the mountain dwelt 
other savages, who were their enemies. Nothing 
daunted, Cram and his associates set out for the moun- 
tain, followed by a party of islanders, who continued 
expostulating with them until they reached its base. 

" The old man, whom I now took to be the chief, in 
an authoritative manner, despatched a second party; 



A CRUEL FATE. T 259 

but Cram and the other two showed fight, and, rolling 
down large stones upon the chief's men, prevented them 
from advancing. As the three reckless fellows neared 
the summit of the mountain, they were watched with 
intense interest by the people below. A few minutes 
more, and they had disappeared on the other' side, 
where they met the savages of whom they had been 
warned, who drove them back, fighting with great fury. 
The men in our village ran for their arms, and a loud 
shout resounded throughout the valley. Twice I started 
to join in the affray ; but those near me prevented my 
departure. The fight lasted about fifteen minutes, and 
was ended by the death of the white men, my compan- 
ions. The captors retired to their own territory, while 
I wept for the first time since leaving my native land. 
I was but just nineteen years of age, and was, perhaps, 
a prisoner for life, destined to live apart from my coun- 
trymen. I had been nurtured in refinement, and 
trained under the holy influence of a mother's prayers ; 
and now a most miserable life was before me, indolence 
and barbarity. 

" The fate of my friends was a cruel one. The natives 
around the base of the mountain saw them fight bravely 
until overpowered by superior numbers, when one by 
one the three sailors were felled to the earth. Cram 
was seen struggling with an islander until another na- 
tive, with his spear, broke the poor fellow's jaw, and 
he was obliged to surrender. 

"About noon the next day came a deputation from 
the people of the territory behind the mountains to 
make peace with our 'Tehoke' (principal chief), which 
caused a great palaver among our natives. To appease 



260 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

our chief, a gift was presented him by the committee. 
It was rolled up in cocoa-nut leaves, the first layer of 
which was green, as if just gathered from the trees. 
While they slowly unrolled the present, the natives 
clustered around it, and as wrapper after wrapper fell 
to the ground, a sight was disclosed that caused me to 
shudder. It was a fitting present from cannibals, the 
leg of poor Cram, browned from the effects of fire. I 
identified the limb by means of a tattooed ring upon 
the calf, that still retained the original color. But this 
gift, instead of soothing the ire of the haughty c Te- 
hoke,' produced an entirely different effect ; for he called 
a council, and, after a palaver, the cannibal committee 
were dismissed, and war formally declared. The island- 
ers were wild with excitement, and I was made to 
sing, in the midst of the rabble, a grand hoolo-hoolo^ 
and to dance, which I did to the music of a drum, 
made by stretching human skin across the ends of a 
short, hollow log. 

" At dawn on the following day, an army of nearly 
three hundred men ascended the mountain, and disap- 
peared over the summit. 

" The day of battle was one of nature's loveliest. The 
rays of the sun, with trembling light, pierced the dense 
foliage of the groves around the absent warriors' homes, 
and sparkled upon the cool streams of water meander- 
ing along the valley, and falling in little cascades among 
the rocks. It would seem a time and place for quiet 
thoughts and pious meditation. But my mind was not 
in a fit state to appreciate the beauty that reposed 
around me. I wandered through the valley, thinking 
of my curious situation, of the strange beings who were 



A VICTORY. 261 

my companions, and my isolation from civilization. I 
thought of the happy Canadian home that I had left, 
and my memory went back to a beautiful Sabbath 
morning (the day prior to my departure from home), 
when, taking the hand of my sister, I led her to a little 
wood behind the house, and there she sang to me a 
song, the words of which have since rung in my ears, 
through all my wanderings, over sea and land, and 
have kept me from the errors that have caused the 
downfall of thousands. 

" Perched upon the top of a cocoa-nut tree, Old Split 
Head kept on the lookout for news. Beyond him 
another dark head peeped above the foliage, and still 
nearer the mountain another and another native could 
be seen. This was a telegraphic line of communica- 
tion. 

"Soon after the natives had disappeared over the 
mountain, the reports of a few muskets, obtained from 
the English boat's crew that was captured some months 
before, together with distant shouts, told me that the 
game was up. After this, a long silence caused me to 
doubt as to who were the victors, for I believed that 
if our party were successful, they would return quickly 
with what booty could be obtained. 

" About four o'clock in the afternoon, a courier ap- 
peared on the brow of the mountain, and a telegraphic 
message came quickly to Old Split Head, who was 
beside me at the door. Now, as my guardian attempt- 
ed to communicate the intelligence to me, he became 
so excited that he could do nothing more than jump 
high in the air, roll over and over upon the ground, 
and shake his long spear at a tree. He then caught 



262 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

me by the arm, and led me to the beach, where the 
army arrived, an hour after, in six large war-canoes, 
each holding above fifty rowers. These canoes, to- 
gether with three men, and many pigs and weapons, 
had been captured during the engagement. The three 
captive warriors lay bound in the bottom of the boat, 
and were unable to move hand or foot. 

" Now commenced a great hoolo-hoolo, during which 
I was embraced by the Tehoke in presence of the 
multitude. The three prisoners were removed to a 
little square formed by a wall of stones, and left under 
a guard for the night, and I was informed that upon 
the next day I should receive a high taboo. This is 
a mark of distinction and privilege, differing according 
to the grade or class of the taboo — some causing the 
person tabooed to stand above those who have a low 
mark upon them. This favor is only given to men ; 
the women do not receive it, and are, therefore, in one 
sense, slaves to their husbands. The next morning the 
Tehoke performed the process of tabooing, by passing 
over my head a piece of tappa (native cloth), and 
pronouncing several words not comprehended by me. 
After this the Tehoke presented me with two wives, 
one of whom was his own daughter, and Split Head, 
with two ingenious fellows, built in the course of the 
day a new habitation, in which I was to dwell. 

"Now came the hour in which the prisoners taken 
during the battle were to meet their doom. They 
were seized by a party of natives, and each one placed 
erect, with his back against a cocoa-nut tree. Around 
the neck of the victim, and trunk of the tree, was wound 
a short piece of native rope, and a stick being placed 



TABOOING AND TATTOOING. 263 

in the bight, it was turned around several times, until 
the tongue protruded from the mouth, and the prisoner 
was dead. Deep holes were dug and lined with stones, 
upon which a large fire was kindled, and allowed to 
continue burning until the stones were very hot. The 
ashes and sticks were raked out, and the bodies of the 
prisoners, which had been previously wrapped in many 
layers of cocoa-nut leaves, were laid in the cavities, and 
hot stones placed upon them. There was no chance 
of straying from the spot, as I sat close by the Tehoke ; 
but I sickened and my head grew dizzy at the horrid 
sight. The horrors of a cannibal feast I will not de- 
scribe. Suffice it to say that the natives became in my 
eyes as wild animals devouring prey. 

"I now led a more agreeable life than I had formerly 
enjoyed, that is to say, if enjoyment consists in having 
a mind free from care or trouble. Before the taboo 
had been placed upon me, there were times when some 
of the natives attempted great freedom with my per- 
son, and were a source of trouble to me. Now I lived 
as the chief's son-in-law, and as a person of distinction, 
as I possessed a high taboo. I was ingenious, and by 
repairing the old flint-lock muskets of the chief, took 
a new stand as a man of superior endowment. As 
month after month passed away, I became more accus- 
tomed to my situation, and felt, at times, almost con- 
tented with my lot. I began to acquire the language, 
and took part in the councils of the chiefs, where my 
word was valued. During all this time I passed but one 
ordeal, that of tattooing. I was taken by force from 
my dwelling, and, being laid upon my back, underwent 
an operation, the effects of which I shall carry with 
me to the grave." 



2p4 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

So saying, Don Guillermo divested himself of his 
shirt, and there were visible upon his breast two curious 
specimens of Marquesian tattooing. " This figure on my 
left side," said he, " is intended to represent the moon, 
while the one on the right is the sun." Upon his thighs 
and arms were other figures equally curious as those upon 
his breast. He then continued : " Once I was dragged 
out to be ornamented upon the face ; but I struggled 
and begged so hard to escape from the hands of the 
artists, that Old Split Head, whose influence was consid- 
erable, interceded with the islanders, and I was permitted 
to go free. Having acquired the dialect, the natives 
placed more confidence in me than they had previously 
done, and I walked along the sea-coast two or three times 
a week with the hope of seeing a vessel. Once or twice 
I descried ships in the distance, but was doomed again 
and again to disappointment, as they did not approach 
the island ; and for eleven long, weary months, did I 
remain a prisoner among the cannibals of Hiva-oa. 

"In conversing with the islanders, they had often 
spoken of a foreigner, who, by some accident, had been 
a resident among them. They called him Oorie, and 
though I questioned them regarding his escape, they 
would not give me any clew by means of which I could 
ascertain the method he used to obtain his freedom. I 
afterwards comforted myself by believing that as one 
person had been taken off the island, another might 
meet with the same good fortune ; and from the time I 
received the above information, my eyes were always 
gazing over the surface of the ocean for a glimpse of a 
distant sail. 

" As the eleventh month of my life among the canni- 



ESCAPE FEOM THE ISLAND. 265 

bals drew to its close, a whaler from North America 
dropped anchor in the little bay, and almost in the 
same spot where, nearly a year before, I had gazed with 
admiration upon the tropical scenery of my new island 
home, the prison-ground that debarred me from civiliza- 
tion. The rare event of a ship visiting Hiva-oa threw 
its inhabitants into a state of great excitement, some of 
whom were for having me closely guarded, while others, 
too much occupied in getting ready their fruits for a 
market, only laughed and shouted to increase the con- 
fusion that everywhere prevailed. During the hubbub 
and clamor of voices, I conversed with some of the 
females, whose ideas of a ship and the uses to which 
one is applied, were of the most primitive kind. 
4 Where does the great monster live, and from what 
country does it travel?' they asked, gazing at the same 
time eagerly into my face, as if expecting to receive 
an incorrect reply. * It comes from my own country, 
which is a long way off,' I answered. To this one 
young girl gravely responded, ' Then your home is in 
the clouds, for this thing (the ship) rains down ; we 
have seen the same before two or three times.' 

" The men swam off to the vessel, and, while absent, 
I endeavored to persuade some of the chiefs to allow 
me to go upon the same errand the next day; but in 
this I was unsuccessful. They sternly objected to my 
appeals, and, urged to desperation, I projected an es- 
cape, but was twice foiled in the attempt. 

u The second night after the whaler arrived, I left the 
hut before the islanders arose from their slumbers, and, 
though my movements had been watched, I reached a 
branch of the valley stream, and, wading along its 



266 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

course up to my chin in water, soon entered the sea, 
and boldly struck out for the vessel that lay at her 
anchorage. 

" The man who had the anchor watch saw the gleam 
of light in my wake, caused by the displacement of the 
water, for the moon was high in the heavens, and the 
smallest object could be easily distinguished. Think- 
ing I was a savage on a predatory excursion, he called 
the mate, who in turn aroused the captain. A rope 
was thrown to me, and half an hour after leaving my 
hut of canes and cocoa-nut boughs, I was surrounded 
by a half-naked group of down-east greenhorns, who 
kindly presented me with a suit of clothes, in place of 
my island one of tappa. 

" The next morning, the master of the whaler, Captain 
Brown, thinking that my escape might exasperate the 
natives, mast-headed the topsail yards, and heaved 
short our cable, to be in readiness to leave in the 
afternoon, at the moment the heavens gave indications 
of a breeze. While these preparations were under 
way, Old Split Head came down the beach, and loudly 
shouted my name. To prove his affection for me, I did 
not answer his call; whereupon he danced about for 
some time, clutching his hair, and then rolling upon 
the sand, appearing to be in hysterics. 

" Towards three o'clock came the wished-for breeze, 
and with it the order to 'fill away the topsails.' 
Springing to the sheets, a party of us hauled them 
home, while others heaved up the anchor, and as we 
slowly stretched away from Hiva-oa, I breathed a 
prayer of thanks for my safe deliverance. The long 
line of natives upon the beach, at sight of our depart- 



FAKEWELL TO " OLD SPLIT HEAD." 267 

ure, could restrain themselves no longer, for above 
forty threw themselves into the sea, and followed after 
us like a school of porpoises. I threw out a rope for 
Old Split Head, and the rapidity with which he as- 
cended the ship's side drew many remarks of admira- 
tion from the sailors, who declared that ' no salt could 
have done it better.' The instant he touched the deck 
he embraced me, and, refusing to be comforted, pointed 
over the ship's side at one of my wives, who was tread- 
ing water, and softly uttered her name many times — 
' Cuahoo ! Cuahoo ! ' Captain Brown gave the old fellow 
several pieces of red flannel, and a few pounds of to- 
bacco, and, rolling the latter in the cloth, he lashed the 
bundle to his head, and with a long, tearful embrace, 
we parted. 

" This was the last time I saw Old Split Head, who 
was the truest and best friend I ever had ; and many 
times since we parted, when amid trials and sufferings, 
my thoughts have turned to our little hut beneath the 
cocoa-nut grove, where so many hours had been passed 
in his company, savage though he was; and I have 
regretted leaving that romantic island. Then reason 
and the voice of duty have said, 'You were born 
among civilized people, and it is your duty to act 
manfully against vicissitudes ; but to live a life of ease 
and pleasure, surrounded by things that injure rather 
than strengthen the noble faculties of the soul, is sinful, 
and is not in accordance with the principles of truth 
and of the Bible.' 

" From Hiva-oa a breeze wafted us into Talcahuana, 
the port of Concepcion, Chili, where I remained for 
some months, working at different trades, in nearly all 



268 A THOUSAND MILES 9 WALK. 

of which I was able to compete with the native work- 
men. I could relate to you many interesting stories 
of the Araucanian Indians, who occupy the south of 
Chili, and often come to Concepcion to barter their 
ponchos, mantas, &c, for English articles ; but having 
occupied much of your time, I shall draw my narrative 
to a close as soon as possible. 

"While residing in Chili, I made the acquaintance 
of two young men, who, having visited Juan Fernan- 
dez, spoke encouragingly of the chances that existed 
for making money upon that island. And they pro- 
posed that we should purchase a boat and repair to the 
island, where thousands of goats run wild, and there 
pass a few months in securing the skins of these 
animals, after which we were to sail to Masafuero, an 
adjacent island, where there were a large number of 
seals. 

"I had earned by this time a sufficient sum of money 
to accept of their offer, and they being supplied with 
like amounts, we purchased a large whale boat, a stock 
of provisions, and three dogs, besides guns, ammuni- 
tion, and all the accessories necessary to insure success 
to our enterprise. We bargained with the captain of 
a vessel that was about leaving Talcahuano for a sperm 
whale cruise, to leave us to ourselves when the ship 
hove in sight of Juan Fernandez, near which his course 
lay. One thing more was yet to be done ; we had no 
person to do the drudgery of preparing and cooking 
our food. Our choice, therefore, fell upon a stout 
negro, called Pedro, who was fluent in the use of the 
English and Spanish languages, and for a low sum we 
secured his services. 



HUNTING GOATS. 269 

" The ship put to sea with a gentle breeze one fine 
morning, and early on the fourth day the rough peaks 
of the island were seen above the horizon. 

"Preparations commenced immediately for disem- 
barkation. Our little craft was launched, the masts 
stepped, her cargo carefully adjusted, and quickly tum- 
bling in our dogs and Pedro, we bade adieu to the 
whaler. 

" Though the breeze blew fresh at the time we left the 
ship, and our party spread every stitch of canvas, it 
was not until night set in that our boat grounded amid 
the surf upon the white sandy beach of the romantic 
Robinson Crusoe island, and we all crawled on shore 
drenched with spray to the skin. 

" A few days after, a hut was completed, and our 
party commenced business in good earnest ; and while 
the three whites were occupied in capturing the goats, 
the black, Pedro, officiated as cook and housekeeper in 
our little dwelling. Among the cliffs the goats scam- 
pered about singly and in little parties. It was our 
object to concentrate all stragglers, and driving them 
into some little nook or valley, from which there was 
no escape, we shot them down, or, when practicable, 
captured them with the lasso. In collecting the stray 
goats into parties, we were greatly assisted by our 
dogs, which had been trained for the purpose. 

" When the animals abounded in places where the 
valleys were large and did not afford opportunities for 
capturing them, we built stone enclosures, and in them 
intrapped large numbers. To capture and skin thirty 
goats was considered no more than a good day's labor 
for each man. Thus our pile of skins towered higher 



270 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

each day, and promised us a little fortune when we 
should dispose of them on the continent. 

"While enjoying this success, a distant sail was 
distinguished one afternoon by Pedro, who ran out 
of his domicile to inform us of the welcome fact. The 
following day our hut was honored by the presence of 
one of South America's best and greatest children, the 
patriotic and learned Don Domingo F. Sarniiento, 
who, having been sent abroad, by the government of 
Chili, to visit different portions of the world, to gain 
information of superior customs, with the intention of 
introducing such as were practicable to that republic 
on his return, had first called at this island, which be- 
longs to that government. 

" Though sent upon such a commission, Sarmiento 
was not a Chileno by birth, but had resided in Chili 
some years, having been exiled from his native country, 
the Argentine Republic, by the tyrannical Rosas, who 
was ever uneasy when a philanthropist or scholar was 
within the land over which he stretched his arm of 
iron and bathed his hands in the blood of her people. 
It is unnecessary for me to give you an account of the 
stay of this great man upon the island ; suffice it to 
say, we became very intimate, he sleeping nine suc- 
cessive nights upon my bed of goat-skins ; and when I 
visited him in Chili, after his return from Europe and 
North America, he presented me with a copy of his 
travels, ' Viages de Sarmiento] in which you will find 
the particulars of the visit. Before General Rosas was 
driven out of office and country, Sarmiento himself 
had crossed the Cordillera and Pampas, and was fight- 
ing against the army of the tyrant; and while on a 



DON SARMIENTO. 271 

visit to him, he said, handing me a trusty sword, 'Don 
Guillermo, your ingenuity is remarkable. I have not 
been able to clean this instrument. Will you oblige 
me by removing from it all traces of rust? ' He then 
reached his hand above an escritorio, and as he held 
out another weapon, a smile playing upon his noble 
features, he said, 'My friend, this sword you need 
not clean; I shall keep it as a memorial; for upon its 
surface are blood-stains from the heart of a tyrant, who 
would have been like Rosas, had not I, while in the 
engagement, sought him out and thrust my trusty steel 
through his heart. Now I can go back to the Argen- 
tine Republic and to freedom, for the tyrant and his 
Masorca* have been driven from their stronghold, 
and their dread influence is at an end.' 

"After remaining some few months on Juan Fernandez 
and the neighboring Masafuero, a whaler arrived and 
took off our company with their property. Before the 
ship left the island, according to a promise I had made 
to Sarmiento, I cut his name deep in a ledge of rock, 
where it can be seen at the present day. 

" Welcome was the first sight of the main land 
after months spent upon a small island. When we 
reached Valparaiso, to our dismay the price of goat- 
skins and furs had fallen, and in place of receiving 
the expected several thousand dollars in return for 
my goods, I quietly pocketed six hundred dollars, 
and swallowed my disappointment. The goat-skins 

* The Masorca was a club of three hundred men, organized 
by Rosas to cut the throats of his political foes and defenceless 
citizens, who would not succumb to his tyrannical sway. 



272 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

brought one real (12^ cents), and in some cases two 
reals each, while the seals commanded from three to 
six reals. 

" Not caring to follow a roving life any longer, I pro- 
ceeded to the capital of Chili, the beautiful Santiago, 
and for a time found entertainment in pursuing various 
trades. About this time I made the acquaintance of 
a young artist from North America. Troubles had 
driven him, like myself, from a good home, and, being 
often together, our attachment became such that it was 
spoken of by every one. One evening, as we walked 
arm in arm along the Tauamar, and near Fort Santa 
Lucia, he pointed in the direction of a nunnery, and 
said, ' Within those walls is a young lady that I would 
have married long ago, but her parents, despising one 
they were pleased to call a gringo, placed her in that 
building, fearing that she might elope with her lover 
to some other part of the country. Once or twice I 
have received letters from her, and, like myself, she 
does not care to live longer, and unless we can be 
united soon, nothing but the death of the suicide is 
left to me.' I was greatly affected at this disclosure, 
which only served to bind our friendship still stronger. 
I was not the only friend from whom the young artist 
could draw sympathy. A daring North American, 
armed with a Colt's revolver and a fine key-hole saw, 
repaired one dark night to the nunnery, scaled its 
walls, and tearing off the tiles, cut a hole through the 
porous wood-roof, and took from the praying-room the 
young betrothed, who had made a vow to her conjuror 
to resort to that place each night to pray until her 
prayers were answered, but in a very different manner 



AN ELOPEMENT. 273 

than the priest would have wished, had he known the 
blessing asked for. 

"The next day the lovers were united, and bade me 
farewell forever. Before the vigilantes were summoned 
to retake the couple or arrest the perpetrator of the 
deed, against whom injured Catholicism raised a loud 
cry, the bride and bridegroom, mounted on fleet horses, 
were on their way to Bolivia, where they are now 
probably residing. 

" It was proved that, at the time of the rescue, our 
countryman, the artist, was in some other place; and 
being his friend, and known to be ingenious, I was 
pointed out as the culprit. People became excited, 
and while the vigilantes were about, a trusty friend 
brought me two horses, and volunteering to become my 
travelling companion, we set out for the Argentine 
Republic, that lay on the eastern side of the Andes. 
The Uspallata and Portillo passes were watched, and 
nothing remained but to follow down the valley of 
Tupungato to the Planchon Pass. Without sustenance 
for our animals, and but a small supply of food, we 
commenced a journey that the old arrieros themselves 
would have turned back from. The lofty sides of the 
mountains hemmed us in, and we followed on, day 
after day, until our horses died, and we were on the 
point of starvation. At last we reached the Planchon, 
which is close upon Patagonia, and crossing this 'flat 
mountain, which is composed of light gravel, resem- 
bling snuff in color and fineness of grain, we came upon 
a little fort, from which a few soldiers ran on seeing 
us, shouting, 'The Indians! the Indians!' We left 
them after quieting their fears and receiving a little food. 
18 



274 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

" The next day two Indians approached, and uttered 
-repeatedly the word ' amite 1 (friend). They kindly 
undertook to guide us to Mendoza, a town that 
lay one hundred and eighty leagues to the north. 
These two savages caught with their bolas (balls) 
several ostriches and one or two guanaeos, upon the 
flesh of which we feasted. When within two days 
of the town, our guides pointed out the true direc- 
tion for us to follow, and, shaking hands with them, 
we parted. 

"Upon arriving in Mendoza I found employment 
for a while, but, not liking the place, went north to San 
Juan, while my friend returned to Chili. And here I 
have lived for nine years, having been married for the 

last six or seven to the daughter of Don , an old 

soldier, who has fought in the battles of the revolutions 
which spring up every few years in this province." 

After returning to North America, I wrote many 
letters of inquiry for the benefit of Don Guillermo. 
Several of these letters were answered. Others, prob- 
ably, never reached the destinations for which they 
were intended. 

I found that a portion of my friend's family were 
still living, and their heartfelt letters to me amply 
repaid the exertions I had made to discover their resi- 
dences. The history of Don Guillermo has a touch of 
romance about it. One person wrote as follows : 

" F. A d (the father of Don G.) was a younger 

son of the high chamberlain to the King of Saxony, 
and as his elder brother took the office and title of his 
father, he, F., took to the army, as is usual in that 
country, and, just before the close of our revolutionary 



DON GUILLERMO's NATIVITY. 275 

war, came to New York as major of a regiment of 
Hessians. After peace was declared, he remained, and 
married a wealthy lady," &c, &c. 

Thus much regarding his parentage. The cause 
that drove him from the land that he even now adores, 
remains a secret with the few in whose breasts it will 
be sure of a safe keeping. 

From another quarter I received the following lines, 
which were written by the cooper of the Henry Astor, 
who took charge of the ship on her homeward pas- 
sage: "In looking over my journal of notes of that 
voyage, I have not mentioned the coming on board 
of the young man (Don Guillermo) at Galapagos 
Islands; but on the 7th of October, 1842, I have 
merely mentioned that we lost, by desertion, while at 
Dominica (one of the Marquesas Islands), a boy. 
The particulars of which I recorded in the ship's log 
book. 

" The particulars of his coming on board, or of his 
leaving, have passed from me, and I could wish that 
many other occurrences of that eventful voyage might. 
H. C." 

Letters from Nantucket inform me that the log-book 
of the Henry Astor was lost in the great fire of 1846. 
The captain's private journal, brought home by Mr. C, 
the cooper of the ship, contains the information de- 
sired. " A Scotch boy, by the name of James Walker 
(assumed name), deserted the ship at the Isle of Dom- 
inica, one of the Marquesas, on the 8th day of October, 
1842 ; and they had good reason to believe that he 
was enticed away from the ship." 

Not having seen the captain's journal, I cannot learn 



276 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

anything relative to the men who accompanied Don 
Guillermo when he left the vessel. I have added these 
few facts, thinking that they might be interesting to 
the relatives of Don Guillermo, who are now able to 
carry on a correspondence with him. . 



CROSSING THE ANDES. 277 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

CROSSING THE ANDES. 

WHILE the fig, the olive, and the orange trees 
were clothed in green, and vast herds of cattle 
from the great pampas were arriving, to be fattened in 
the clover-fields, the mountains still remained covered 
with snow, and impassable, save to the trained courier. 
Still I had seen all that rendered San Juan attractive, 
and a longing to return to my own country came so 
strongly upon me, that I determined to risk a passage 
to Chili at the earliest possible moment. 

It was only when my intentions became known that 
I was made aware of the numbers and kindly feelings 
of my San Juan friends ; for so many were interested 
in my welfare, and warned me so earnestly of the 
danger of the journey, and attempted to receive from 
me the promise that I would remain with them, at 
least until the snow had disappeared, that I could not 
but feel I had indeed fallen in with some of the truly 
hospitable and generous peoples that here and there 
are scattered over the world, making it, as do the oases 
in the desert, not all a dreariness. 

I learned from these friends that the northern passes 
that led to Copiapo and Coquimbo were buried in the 
snow, and that, on the first-named road, a party of 



278 A THOUSAND MILES 7 WALK. 

eight arrieros, while lately attempting to cross into Chili, 
had been frozen to death. The Coquimbo road was said 
to be equally as bad, for there eleven experienced guides 
had just fallen victims to a fierce snow storm in the 
valleys of the Andes. The two southern passes of TJs- 
pallata and Portillo were more elevated than the two 
northern ones, but were much shorter. The Portillo 
could not be passed by man. The mail road of Uspal- 
lata was the one fixed upon by me as the most practi- 
cable; and though the courier reported the loss of two 
young Chilenos, who probably had been swept away by 
the mountain torrent, I believed that, having been 
reared in a New England climate, whose winters are 
rigorous, I could bear the hardships of the ~cold better 
than the native guides themselves. 

While I was contemplating an early start, an old 
man called, and requested permission to give an ac- 
count of his sufferings, he having attempted the pas- 
sage of the Cordilleras a few days before. 

" We started," he said, " with every prospect of suc- 
cess. The weather had been settled for several days, 
and with our mules we left the outer sierra, and pene- 
trated far into the mountains. But good fortune did 
not remain the same, for suddenly a great temporal 
came flying from the south, and enveloped us for many 
hours in its terrible folds. The snow fell in clouds, and 
I, of all my party, escaped ; my companions are frozen 
in the drifts, and there they will remain until the melt- 
ing of the snow. Look at my hands; all of the fingers 
were frozen, and also my cheeks and nose. JVb, serior. 
Norte Americano, no paso vd. la Cordillera ! " 

The poor old guide was in a pitiful condition ; but, 



FAREWELL TO DON GUILLERMO. 279 

undoubtedly, had lie been twenty years younger, he 
would have fared better. I confess that this news, 
with the entreaties of my friends, forced me to post- 
pone crossing the mountains until a later date. I 
consented to remain, and for several weeks tried to 
content myself; but when four weeks had passed, I 
became resolved, and packing my notes, and a few 
specimens of natural history, in my canvas bag, I 
announced to my friends my firm determination of 
leaving the country. 

Don Guillermo, on seeing that I was in earnest, 
ordered his peon to lasso my horse, and bring him to 
the corral, and made every preparation for my cemfort 
in the journey that his inventive skill could suggest. . 

On Saturday, November 10 (the last spring month 
of that latitude), I bade adieu to the family, and 
started on the road to the city. Don Guillermo accom- 
panied me to the river, that was swollen by the floods 
from the valleys of the Andes, and went roaring along 
its course with a fearful rapidity. At the banks of the 
torrent my friend bade me farewell, charging me to be 
faithful to the promise I had made him, namely, that I 
would endeavor to find oat the residence of his sur- 
viving relations, whom he had left sixteen years before 
in North America, during which time he had not heard 
one word of their welfare or whereabouts. I promised 
again, and said farewell, and left him ; it was necessary 
for me to cross the river, and I at once spurred my 
horse into the torrent, and began to ford ; fortunately, 
the animal was sure-footed and strong, and we landed 
safely on the opposite shore. 

I passed most of the next day at a friend's house, 



280 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

within the limits of the town, and at dusk rode out to 
the post-house, and presented a letter of introduction 
to the proprietor, a garrulous old don, whose good en- 
tertainment for man and beast had made his house a 
favorite resort for travellers. The don read my letter, 
and declared that I should remain with him for some 
time, as it was impossible to cross to Chili. The next 
day, Don Carlos Leon Rodriquez, minister to the prov- 
ince of San Luis, attended by a priest, both of whom 
were on their way to the town, stopped at the posta, 
and corroborated the statement of the guardo. The 
former gentleman offered to present me with letters to 
his friends in Mendoza, if I preferred going to that 
town, and remaining until the passage across the 
mountains was sure and free from all difficulties. Con- 
sidering that we had never met before, the kind pro- 
posal proved still further to me the hospitable feelings 
that the educated people of the Argentine Republic 
bear towards North Americans. 

I had intended to continue my journey as a pedes- 
trian across the Andes, but it seemed necessary to take 
with me some beast to serve as pack-animal, to carry 
my small collection of specimens, blankets, &c, to the 
port of Valparaiso. As it might become necessary to 
abandon the animal along the road, I selected a speci- 
men of horse-flesh which would have afforded a stu- 
dent of anatomy easy facilities for osseous examina- 
tions, without* removing the hide. 

During the forenoon I bade adios to my new ac- 
quaintances, and with one end of my lasso in my hand, 
and the other fastened to the bridle of my horse, I led 
the way, on foot, happy in feeling that I had fairly 



THE FLECHA. 281 

commenced the last stage of my journey towards the 
Pacific. 

Taking a south-westerly course across the desert, I 
travelled until three o'clock over the same dreary waste, 
when a deep fissure was observed in the sierra, which I 
entered, and soon found myself within the Flecha. 
Before passing this peculiar gap, a word or two regard- 
ing it may prove interesting. For many leagues along 
its course the sierra presents an impassable barrier to 
man or beast. The Flecha is a narrow passage from 
the desert on the east to the valley on the western 
side. The sides of the Flecha are of solid rock, rising 
perpendicularly to a great height. 

The pass exhibits the action of water upon its sides, 
for the rock has been worn smooth in past ages, and 
the bed of the passage is covered with pebbles. Un- 
doubtedly, a long time since, a strong body of water 
found its way through this place, and may have sub- 
merged the plain below ; but whether this gap was the 
bed of a natural stream, or mere vent, through which 
the melting snow escaped during the spring months, 
cannot now be well determined. The effect that the 
lofty sides of the Flecha have upon independent ob- 
jects is very curious. My horse seemed to dwindle to 
the size of a Shetland pony when I removed a few 
yards from him, and two muleteers, who passed through 
at the same time, looked like pygmies. 

Half way up the precipice were holes, said to have 
been cut by the ancient discoverers of the country, to 
assist in searching for precious metals, but, proving un- 
profitable, had been abandoned. I continued along the 
valley until dusk, when the barking of dogs, and occa- 



282 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

sional glimpses of a light, guided me to one side of the 
valley, where a few huts constitute the hamlet of El 
Durazno. These huts were inhabited by muleteers, 
who suffered greatly from poverty. Here and there 
the rough soil had been levelled, so as to be suscepti- 
ble of irrigation, and a few patches of clover gave a 
cheering aspect, when contrasted with the barren 
mountains behind the hamlet. An old woman invited 
me to enter her house, and pass the night, as it was 
damp outside, and the heavy clouds that hovered about 
us looked as if about to descend. 

The hut was built of sticks and mud, and adjoining 
it was the kitchen. 

Having turned my horse adrift, I entered, and, as I 
reclined upon a skin couch, commenced inquiring of 
the hostess relative to the snow on the main Cordil- 
lera. I was unable, however, to obtain any informa- 
tion from that source. Our party was soon increased 
by the entry of several rude-looking fellows, armed 
with long knives. The place was so small that we re- 
clined, packed one against the other, men, women, and 
children, promiscuously. The old woman commenced 
cooking an asado upon the fire ; it had hardly begun 
to splutter and crackle, when the dog that had sat be- 
side the fire caught up the meat in his mouth, and 
commenced masticating it with great gusto. The wo- 
man, screaming out, " 0, sus Ave Maria!" made a 
clutch at the dog, but was unsuccessful in recovering 
the prize. One of the men caught the animal by 
the throat, and choked him until the meat was 
drawn from his mouth, when, with a hasty " Ha, 
perro!" it was returned to the fire, and cooked for 



VINCHUCAS. 283 

the lookers-on. More men and dogs came in, and, 
thinking it best to retreat while it remained in my 
power to do so, I requested my hostess to allow me to 
retire. Taking a saucer of fat, in which a bit of rag 
was burning, she led the way into the other shanty, 
and assisted in spreading my saddle cloths upon a 
rough sofa, built of boards, which had been placed in 
the middle of the floor to prevent the approach of the 
vinchucas that were secreted in the crevices in the 
walls. 

These uncomfortable disturbers of night dreams 
are as large as the common May beetle, and are armed 
with a bill resembling that of a mosquito, which is 
used with great effect upon the victim. Before fixing 
upon a person, the body of the vinchuca is thin and 
flat ; but after his feast is over, he is bloated and dis- 
gusting to look upon. As this tormentor is many 
times larger than the mosquito, so does the irritability 
caused by its leeching process exceed in like propor- 
tion that of the other pest. 

When about to withdraw from the room, the woman 
bade me sleep with the utmost confidence, and not 
fear any harm. But as the conversation of the men in 
the kitchen had been about the plata that might 
be in my possession, I was very particular to impress 
her with the idea that North Americans feared noth- 
ing; and at the same time I drew a long knife from 
under my poncho, and placed it beneath the sheep-skin 
that was to serve for ray bed. When she withdrew, I 
lay down; but as I had a thought of the vinchucas be- 
fore I prepared for sleep, I carefully rolled myself in 
my blankets, Indian fashion, and defied them to do 
their worst. 



284 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

Hardly had I begun to doze, when a sensation of 
something disagreeable, touching me, aroused me to 
the fact that the vile pests were coming from every 
quarter of the hovel. I could hear them crawling up 
the sides of the room and across the ceiling, when 
with their usual degree of impudence, one after another 
dropped plump upon my body. But my swathing 
clothes served as an armor, and they could not enter 
in to the feast. All the while they clung with consid- 
arble tenacity to the coarse blankets, trying to effect an 
entrance, but they had met their conqueror; for, after 
waiting until the swarming was over, and the army 
had fairly camped upon me, I suddenly and carefully 
rolled over and over upon the sofa, until the life was 
forced out of nearly all of them, when, being satisfied 
that a great victory had been achieved, I dropped into 
a deep slumber. 

When morning came, and I passed out of the hut, I 
found that the valley was filled with mist, and I de- 
ferred setting out until the thick clouds had scattered. 
About nine o'clock a breeze sprang up, which soon 
cleared the valley of mists, and I resumed my journey. 
Soon after my leaving El Durazno, the valley ex- 
panded into a plain of a desert character. The coun- 
try between the mountains again became undulating 
and broken ; at three leagues from the last hamlet, El 
Sequion, a collection of two or three mud houses and 
several ranchos, appeared. 

From one of these ranchos a China (half Indian) 
woman came out, and questioned me as to my motives 
for travelling alone, on foot, in the desolate valley. 
When I spoke of crossing the Cordillera, the good 



THE SEQUI0N. 285 

creature lifted both her hands, and exclaimed in collo- 
quial Spanish, " Por Dios, don't go any farther. A 
man from Chili stopped here the other day — his mouth 
and cheeks were like a soft peach with the frost ! " 
Another woman joined us, and declared that I was too 
young to be so far from home, and questioned me to 
the effect "if my mother knew that I was out." In 
their inquiries, however, they exhibited a kindness that 
to me was very gratifying, and I felt that in case of 
accident upon the road, I had at least two friends near 
at hand. 

Beyond the Sequion, the valley grew narrower, and 
in places was so filled with stones and detritus as to 
lame the old horse. The road now became a mere 
defile, the steep sides of the sierras towering above it 
to a great height, their bareness being sometimes re- 
lieved by dwarf cacti, that grew in crevices where soil 
had lodged ; these plants were in flower, some white, 
others of a yellow hue. 

The clouds again enveloped the mountains, and 
while I was groping along over the broken rock, the 
tinkling of a mule's bell broke the stillness, and a mo- 
ment later I came upon a circle of pack-saddles and 
mules' cargoes, lying upon the ground. A deep voice 
called out, "Come here, friend;" and I was soon ac- 
quainted with the capataz and muleteers of Don Fer- 
nando de Oro, a rich San Juan merchant, who had sent 
his troop to Uspallata to await an opportunity to cross 
to Chili, in advance of the troops of the other mer- 
chants. The don was daily expected by the capataz, 
who had been three or four days on the road already. 
The capataz urged me to remain with the troop until 



286 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

the next morning, which invitation I accepted, and 
tying my horse to some resinous bushes, I sat down to 
a sumptuous meal of boiled corn, dried beef, and pep- 
per, while my jaded animal satisfied himself in cropping 
the tops of the bushes, and a kind of stunted weed that 
grew among the rocks. Towards dusk it rained, but 
my heavy blanket kept me dry. The guides huddled 
around the dying embers, vainly endeavoring to warm 
their benumbed limbs ; around us the hills seemed to be 
shaken by the heavy thunders that reverberated along 
the mountain tops. 

Fearing that my horse would give out, as he had 
lived mostly upon bushes and coarse herbage since 
leaving San Juan, I arose early, and, guided by the 
bright starlight, caught my animal, and led him up 
the valley. A spur of the sierra blocked up the val- 
ley, and this steep ascent had to be climbed by the poor 
animal, he halting every few steps to draw breath. 
Having reached the summit, he heaved a deep sigh, 
as if conscious of having finished a hard task. 

A magnificient view rewarded me for the exertion 
of making the ascent. The rocky grandeur filled me 
with aw r e, for I was surrounded by a sublime chaos — 
broken hills, valleys, and barren cliffs of the sierra. 

A white cloud passed over the valley, shutting me 
out from sight of the world below ; it w T as no easy 
task to follow the rocky path beyond; sometimes it 
led down abrupt descents into dismal valleys, then 
again almost to the level of the summit of the moun- 
tain range. Along this crooked path but one mule can 
pass at a time, and there are places where it requires 
but a single unsteady movement to send the loaded 



IN THE SIERRAS. 287 

animal into the abyss below. For nearly a mile the 
sierra on the left side was formed of red freestone, and 
was, in many places, as regular as a castle wall. In 
this lonely place the least sound would catch my ear. 

The sierra that I had crossed is called the Paramilla, 
or " bleak place ; " in the warmest day a cold wind from 
the snow peaks of the Andes blows drearily across it. 
Leaving the broken mass of rock, the path descended 
abruptly into a little valley, which contained a stone 
hut, and a corral for goats. This desolate spot was 
enlivened by the presence of one of the prettiest senoras 
that I ever met. She informed me that her hus- 
band, who was then hunting guanacos, supported him- 
self principally by keeping goats that browsed upon 
the sides of the mountains. When he wished to 
butcher any of the guanacos, he, with the assistance 
of a pack of trained curs, drove them into natural rock- 
walled corrals among the mountains, where, hemmed 
in, the animals were easily despatched with the bolia- 
dores and knife. 

Leaving the valley, I ascended to a high plain that 
seemed to be on a level with the summits of the neigh- 
boring range of the Cordilleras, and as the sun was 
about sinking below the western horizon, I perceived 
that this was to be my camping-place for the night. 
Laying the saddle upon the ground for a pillow, and 
carefully spreading the blankets, I lay down to rest, 
having first tied my horse to a stunted bush, which he 
vainly tried to eat. 

I dropped into a restless slumber; but an hour later, 
a wild, desolate cry caused me to spring from my blan- 
kets, and prepare for defence. I had been told many 



288 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

stories of the cruelty of the puma, or American lion, 
and at this moment feared that one of these animals 
was on the plain. It was along this part of the road 
that guides had seen their tracks, and hunters had run 
them down with dogs a few miles from the plain upon 
which I had encamped. 

Another wild cry, and the animal passed along the 
plain without heeding either my horse or me, and, glad 
to be left in peace, I sank into a sound sleep, that con- 
tinued unbroken until the rising sun gilded the snowy 
crests of the lofty Cordillera. 

It was a beautiful scene that lay before me. Across 
the plain floated white clouds of mist, like airy spirits, 
while before me lay a narrow valley, through which the 
road led to Uspallata. Upon one side of the plain rose 
several low hills, green with coarse herbage, upon which 
a small herd of llamas were feeding, as if unconscious 
of the presence of man. 

I soon was ready to start ; but my old horse seemed 
incapable of moving. I rubbed his stiff limbs until I 
had worked myself into a perspiration ; he was so far 
recovered as to be able to move slowly. I seized the 
lasso, and led him on as before. 

The road descended to the ravine just referred to, 
and for an hour or so my journey led through the 
surrounding cliffs; but at length we again emerged 
upon a flat plain, covered with low bushes, and over 
this I led the way until afternoon, when a green spot 
at the foot of a high range of mountains, and the hut 
of a farmer, caught my eye, and soon after I drew up 
before the last house in the Argentine Republic — the 
Guardo of Uspallata. 



THE GUARD0 OF USPALLATA. 289 

Before I could fairly disencumber my horse of bis 
burden, he bolted for the clover-field behind the house, 
and commenced devouring the fodder with an avidity 
that told too well of his famished condition. 

The person in charge of the house informed me that 
the passing was very difficult, and advised me to re- 
main a few days ; but, knowing too well that delays are 
dangerous, I made preparations for leaving on the next 
day. I was to leave the horse in the clover-pasture, 
and strap my blankets and other articles to my back, 
and in this way cross the main range of the Andes. 
From this I had no alternative ; and so, after arranging 
everything for an early start, I lay down under the 
porch to take a siesta. 

I was soon awakened by the tinkling of a mule-bell, 
and upon rising saw three persons before the guardo, 
accompanied by several mules. Two of these men 
were dressed in the gaucho fashion, but the other had 
the garb and manners of a merchant, which he proved 
to be ; for, as I approached him, he offered me his hand, 
and, with a polite "para servir vd." introduced him- 
self as Don Fernando de Oro, a merchant of San Juan. 
He informed me that the postmaster near San Juan, 
with whom I passed a day and two nights, had re- 
quested him to keep a sharp lookout for a young 
gringo that was on the road, and to take him safely 
under his protecting arm to the American consul in 
Valparaiso. I felt much flattered by this acknowledg- 
ment, and at once accepted Don Fernando as my guar- 
dian and protector. 

The don remarked that his troop of mules, which I 
had passed two days before, would arrive on that night, 
19 



290 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. 

and remain in the clover-field until a passage could be 
effected. The troop came in at a late hour. 

The next day was a lovely one ; and as the weather 
gave promise of being settled for a few days, prepara- 
tions for setting out on the following morning were 
commenced. The mules for Don Fernando, and two 
guides, were selected from the troop of ninety, and two 
extra ones were carefully shod, to answer in case of any 
emergency. My friend declared that it would be un- 
fair not to allow my horse to accompany us across the 
Andes, after he had been through so much privation ; 
therefore a heavy pair of shoes were selected from the 
store mules' pack, and nailed firmly to his feet. "Now," 
said the don, as he viewed the lank form of the animal 
with no little merriment, "Art has exhausted herself 
upon you, and Nature alone must support you on the 
road to-morrow." 

Early on the following morning, Don Fernando, his 
two guides, and myself, with our animals, crossed the 
little river that ran past the guard-house, and at sunrise 
entered a narrow cleft in the sierra, and followed a 
stony path, until we came in sight of the River Men- 
doza, which rushed along the bed of the valley, roaring 
like thunder. The path grew narrower as we pro- 
gressed, sometimes following the margin of the river, 
then ascending midway to the tops of the high sierra. 
It was a scene of great sublimity. The river, which 
was a deep mud-color, from the alluvial matter brought 
down from the mountain, was hemmed in by the two 
parallel sierras, that towered majestically to the height 
of several thousand feet. 

In some places the path wound like a thread along 



A CHILENO TRAGEDY. 291 

the bold front of a precipice ; then it descended to the 
water, and followed its course, until it again ascended. 
As we gazed above, the huge pieces of detached rock 
seemed ready to fall and crush us. 

The melting snow had undermined the soil in some 
places, and slides of earth and stones had fallen, and 
covered up the track. 

After crossing a little bridge that had been thrown 
over a stream which flowed into the river of the valley, 
we came upon several ruined huts, which the don told 
me once belonged to an ancient tribe of Indians that 
inhabited the valleys of the Andes, and subsisted prin- 
cipally upon the flesh of the wild llamas. 

This was before the country had become independent 
of Spain ; and though many years had passed since their 
construction by the Indian builders, it was interesting 
to note that the plaster that held the stones together, 
and which was nothing but a kind of clay, still remained 
unbroken, as if the structures had been but recently de- 
serted. These remains of the walls of the Indian dwell- 
ings were four feet in height, and were partitioned off 
into small rooms. 

In the corner of one of the dilapidated dwellings was 
a heap of stones, surmounted by a tiny cross, made of 
rough twigs. The guides looked serious as we passed 
it, and in answer to my questioning look, the don told 
the following story: — 

"When a Chileno loves, he loves with a passion so 
deep and strong that honor, friends, and fortune are 
secondary in his estimation to her who has thrown 
around him the network of her affections. A youth 
not long since came from Chili to visit a relative on 



292 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

the Argentine side of the Cordillera. His stay was 
protracted, for he had met with a beautiful maiden, far 
lovelier than those of his native country ; and when he 
left, it was only to receive the permission of his friends 
to return again, and claim her as his own. 

" He crossed these mountains to Chili ; but the fierce 
temporaries from the south had commenced before he 
reached the main range on his return, where the risk 
is greater in effecting a passage at such a season than 
on any other part of the road. 

" He had with him experienced guides, and a favor- 
ite mule carried his wedding garments and the pres- 
ents that he intended to offer his future bride. On the 
Cumbre pass, at an elevation of twelve thousand feet, 
a temporal struck the party, and one by one the mules 
became buried in the snow. 

"The boy worked like a hero (I was with the com- 
pany), and during the storm his orders were obeyed 
by the muleteers with alacrity, for they loved him well. 

"But all exertions proved unsuccessful; not an 
animal escaped; and the weary party descended the 
Cumbre into the valley, worn out with their tremen- 
dous labors. The boy never lived to leave the valley ; 
there he lies," — pointing to the cross, — "buried in 
his chosen spot. The guides piled stones upon his 
body, to keep the condors from devouring it. See! 
there is one now watching the grave." 

I looked to the place designated, and saw upon the 
opposite cliff a huge dark-colored bird, that stood sen- 
tinel-like, a solemn watcher above the unfortunate Chi- 
leno's grave. 

Not far beyond, the path again troubled us by its 



CONDOES. 293 

extreme narrowness, and a dizziness came over me as 
I gazed far below into the mountain torrent. 

Along this part of the road were piles of the bones of 
animals that had died upon the road during the past 
years. Some perished from hunger, and many fell over 
the precipices, lodging among the rocks, where, after 
long and painful struggles, they died. It seemed, truly, 
like going through the Valley of Death, so numerous 
were the carcasses and bones of cattle in this part of 
the valley. 

Condors were occasionally seen upon the cliffs, some- 
times circling high in the heavens. I had often ob- 
served these birds with interest when they came in 
numbers from the Andes, to feed upon carrion around 
Causete. 

The condor is, I believe, the largest of the carrion- 
feeders ; it has a fleshy crest upon the head, with wat- 
tle-like appendages beneath the beak ; the nostrils ex- 
tend through the cere, the head and neck are bare of 
feathers, and the skin of the neck lies in folds; around 
its base, a little above the shoulders, is a frill of white, 
downy feathers encircling it. Its flight is graceful, and 
at times very lofty. The breeding-places of the con- 
dors are in hollows of the cliffs, hundreds of feet from 
their bases ; the eggs are laid upon the bare rock. 

I have seen these birds in pairs ; but in winter months 
they generally congregate in greater numbers. 

While in the air, the condor soars in graceful circles, 
moving its wings but little : they feed upon carrion, but 
will kill weak and wounded animals, somewhat resem- 
bling the caracara in this respect. 

The range of the condor extends along the Andes, 



29-1 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

from the Straits of Magellan to 8° north latitude. I 
have seen specimens kept as pets in the gardens of na- 
tive gentlemen. 

At the Cueste de la Catedral a grand sight awaited 
us. From the brink of the river there arose a precipice 
of dark-colored stone, that frowned upon the narrow 
path which passed along its front. A stream of water 
fell over the brink of the ledge, and wherever the water 
struck the rough projections, it was converted into spray, 
which fell in turn upon other points of the rock, giving 
to the scene a fairy-like appearance. 

Just at dusk we arrived at a point where the valley 
turned in a new direction, and was particularly distin- 
guished for the desolate appearance of the surrounding 
rocks, which is, however, somewhat relieved by a bridge 
of English model, built by the Mendoza government. 
Across this we hurried, and stood upon La Punta de 
las Vacas, or Cow Point, where a desolate stone hut 
had been occupied years before by cow-herds, smug- 
glers, and now sometimes served to shelter the be- 
nighted traveller. On the opposite bank of the torrent 
stood the first casucha^ or post-hut, built of bricks and 
plaster. It was very small, and was modelled upon a 
cheap plan, being without doors, ^sashes, windows, — a 
large square hole answering for the first and last con- 
veniences. 

During the Spanish reign, these snow huts were lib- 
erally supplied with provisions, wines, wood, and bed- 
ding; but republican rulers are satisfied to let the four 
men who compose the mail party carry their own blan- 
kets, fuel, and food upon their backs — a miserable rule, 
that causes much suffering among the post-men, who 



BEYOND THE CASUCHA. 295 

are often shut up for many days at a time in a cheerless 
hut, while the snow storms are raging around them. 

A league beyond the casucha, the guides led the 
way into a narrow valley, where the animals were 
turned loose, to graze upon whatever they might find. 
The don spread a raw hide upon the ground, upon 
which we laid our blankets, and consigned ourselves to 
the embraces of the drowsy god. 

The long walk had thoroughly jaded me, and it 
needed no narcotic to insure a sound sleep for the fol- 
lowing seven hours. 



296 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 



CHAPTER XIX. 
CROSSING THE ANDES — CONTINUED. 

WHEN" the sun's rays of the next morning had 
penetrated the valley, we were more than a 
league from our camping-ground, and had passed the 
second casucha^ or snow hut, of the winter courier. This 
little domicile was built after the model of its distant 
neighbor at La Punta de las Vacas, and was two 
leagues farther up the valley. While we were trudg- 
ing along, the metallic-sounding whinny of llamas 
sounded from the sierra, and, looking up, we counted 
no less than thirty of these graceful creatures gazing 
curiously upon us. The herd consisted of males, 
females, and young, the latter of the size of the com- 
mon goat. As travellers rarely cross the mountains 
at this season of the year, the llamas instinctively 
inhabit the valley, where they are free from danger, 
and find a better living than the rocky cliffs afford. 

Again the valley was blocked up by a spur of the 
sierra, called the Paramilla, the second one crossed 
since leaving the hamlet of El Durazno. The sides 
were steep, and Don Fernando cautioned me against 
walking, observing that riding kept the puna (a pecu- 
liar effect produced by inhaling rarefied air) at a dis- 
tance. The summit of the Paramilla was buried in a 



RIVERS IN THE ANDES. 297 

deep drift of snow, through which we forced our ani- 
mals at considerable risk ; for their exertions to keep a 
footing almost overtasked their strength. Sometimes 
falling into concealed holes, they floundered in the 
great drift until our own services were necessary to 
rescue them from injury. Finally, a passage was ef- 
fected, and we wound down the west side to the banks 
of the torrent in the vicinity of the third snow hut. 
The color of the water had changed from a muddy 
hue to dark red, and it seemed to rush along more 
impetuously than at the entrance of the valley. The 
many little streams that fell over the precipices along 
the road were colorless; therefore I judged that either 
the bed of the torrent, or its source, gave to the water 
its peculiar color ; and it may be of interest to state in 
this place, that, as far as I could learn, all the rivers 
that descend into the Argentine Republic, on the east 
side of the Andes, are of a deep mud color, holding in 
suspension alluvial mud ; while upon the Chili, or west 
side of the Andes, the waters are clear and colorless. 
The coolness of the morning soon gave way to the 
heat of the sun, and it grew warmer as its rays were 
reflected upon the snowy sides of the mountains. The 
sound of a human voice fell upon our ears strangely in 
this desolate place, as a party of men came into view 
far up the valley. We soon met, and many were 
the inquiries made by the members of both parties. 
The Cordillera had actually been passed, but an hour 
or two before, by the courier and several persons who 
had placed themselves under his orders. The courier 
was a short, square-built man, of very dark complexion ; 
and from the fact of his having performed many daring 



4 ^98 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

passages during the past years, we looked upon him 
with no ordinary interest. He rode on a small mule, 
the mail bag being slung to his neck by a leather strap, 
and did not exceed in size a school-boy's satchel. He 
informed us that the snow was thawing upon the sum- 
mit of the main ridge, and would not be passable until 
the cold night air had crusted it over, when we might 
pass in comparative safety. But Don Fernando was 
not to be stopped even by the opinion of so experienced 
a personage as the courier, but ordered us to hurry on 
with all possible speed. 

Soon the main range of the Andes rose before us, 
blocking up the valley more effectually than either of 
the previous Paramillas, its rounded top glistening from 
the reflected light of the sun. The don ordered a halt 
beside the river, in order to prepare for future action. 
The animals were allowed to drink a little water, while 
the don gave us all a dose of starch water and sugar, 
which we drank. This was a remedy for the puna, 
or at least to cause our stomachs to give off any gases 
therein contained, to cool the blood and invigorate the 
system. Don Fernando then bound his face in cotton 
handkerchiefs, and the guides and myself followed his 
example. This was to protect our faces from the re- 
flected rays of the sun upon the white, shining drifts 
that covered the summits of the Cordillera and the 
neighboring sierras. % 

The river branched off to the northward, and was 
lost to view among the mountains. At the base of the 
Cordillera was the last snow hut of the Argentine Re- 
public: passing it and the river, we commenced our 
weary ascent. Water had been flowing from the sum- 



ASCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 299 

mit for several days previous to our arrival, and there 
was no appearance of the old path which had been 
washed away. As the side of this part of the range 
was composed of gravel and loose stones, it was difficult 
to obtain a firm footing, and the animals were contin- 
ually slipping, which obliged us to exercise no little 
care and labor. The guides dismounted, but the don 
declared that he had no wish to court the puna by 
exerting himself unnecessarily ; therefore he managed 
to keep upon his mule ; but more than once the incli- 
nation of the animal's back was such that the rider was 
only saved by a slide off by the attentions of one of the 
guides. A direct ascent could not be attempted ; our 
only method was to wind back and forth from side to 
side, on the face of the Cordillera, thus making the 
ascent very gradual. 

When we were about two thirds of the way up, 
our anticipated trouble commenced. The baggage 
mule lost her footing, and rolled over and over down 
the side of the mountain. Don Fernando shrieked out 
a hasty caramba, the guides a naughty c — o, while I 
stood aghast. But our fears were soon quieted ; for the 
animal struck upon a projecting piece of rock, which 
stayed her course, without apparently injuring her. 

Being the smallest of the party, I was intrusted with 
the lasso, with which I crawled down to the mule, and 
fastened it about her neck, when she was pulled upon 
her feet by the party above. Having been relieved of 
her cargo, the animal readily commenced ascending, as 
if nothing had troubled her, and soon she was in the 
path again with her load upon her back. 

After many fallings and backslidings, our party stood 



300 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

upon the Cumbre, or summit of the Cordillera, at an 
elevation of twelve thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. When viewed from the valley below, I was dis- 
appointed as to its seeming altitude ; but when standing 
upon the Cumbre, I fully realized the great height upon 
which our party had halted. The view was confined 
by the irregular peaks of the surrounding sierras ; but 
a fine scene lay below us on the Chili side, of a peculiar 
Alpine character. We stood upon the dividing line 
of the Argentine Republic and Chili, and I inwardly 
bade farewell to the country that had been my first 
teacher of travellers' hardships, and had for much suf- 
fering given me lessons of usefulness — had impressed 
upon my heart a truer patriotism, and a more dignified 
respect for our republic of the north. 

As we gazed into the depth below us, a wild scene 
met our view. The deep valley was filled with snow 
to a depth of nearly one hundred feet ; for as the snow 
tempests blow along the range of mountains, the fleecy 
material drifts into the narrow defiles, filling them com- 
pletely, in some places, to the very tops. This is the 
case, particularly, farther to the south, where a winter 
passage is rarely, if ever, attempted. Upon the left 
side of the descent the first Chilian casucha rose out 
of the snow, differing somewhat in model from those 
upon the Argentine side, the roof being rounded or 
oven-shaped, while those on the east side are two 
inclined planes, like the roof of a New England cot- 
tage in the earlier times. 

Until now the powerful reflected light had not 
affected my vision ; but I at last began to feel it seri- 
ously. I had neglected to bring " goggles," and though 



A GUIDE MULE. 301 

a thick cotton handkerchief covered my head, rny skin 
was parched, and tears continually rolled down my 
face, adding to my torture, from which there was no 
escape. " Thank Providence that the day is so very 
clear," ejaculated the don ; " for if a temporal should 
pass over, where would we be by nightfall ? Either 
blocked up in that cold snow hut yonder, or buried 
in the valley below." 

The snow had commenced thawing, and the real 
difficulties of crossing now commenced. The mules 
floundered in the drifts, often requiring our combined 
exertions to keep them on a sure footing. Near the 
casucha we came upon hard snow ; but the original path 
lay many feet below, buried in the drift. While the 
party were pausing to consider the proper course to 
pursue, I noticed that one of the mules had been 
caught by Don Fernando, who waded towards the 
firm snow, leading the little animal by means of a 
lasso, which had been thrown about her neck. She 
was the smallest of the animals, and was called the 
vaqueana, or guide mule, from the fact thai she could 
follow the hidden path with great accuracy. 

Curious to see her operations, I watched her closely 
as she walked carefully over the drift, with her nose 
almost touching the snow ; and she really seemed to 
be guided by the sense of smell. The other animals 
followed, driven by the guides, while* the don and 
myself harnessed ourselves with the lassos, and drew 
after us the hide upon which had been laid the bag- 
gage, saddles, &c. ' 

Beyond the snow hut of the Cumbre, the descent 
was abrupt, and the line of the narrow path having 



302 A THOUSAND MILES 5 WALK. 

been lost, we slid down the drifts in a most exhilarat- 
ing manner. The mules came after, requiring to be 
well whipped by one of the guides before they would 
move an inch. Though the guide mule lost the nar- 
row path, after following for some distance correctly, 
she became valuable to us on this part of the trail. We 
came to another descent, down which the other mules 
could not be driven ; but when the little vaqueana sat 
upon the snow, and gracefully descended without in- 
jury, the laggards followed, as one sheep follows an- 
other ; all but one descended safely ; she stuck fast in 
the drift, and it required our whole number to ascend 
and rescue her. We found her suffering from the 
puna, and in dubious spirits. Her exertions to free 
herself in a place where the atmosphere was so rare 
had almost ruined the poor beast. Blood trickled 
from her nose, and her breast was swollen like a blad- 
ber distended with wind. 

At four o'clock Don Fernando ordered a halt upon 
a pile of loose rocks that protruded from the snow. 
Here we remained patiently waiting for the snow to 
crust over, as it had become too soft to allow of safe 
travelling, Twilight fell upon us in this wild retreat, 
and found the guides and the don rolled up in their 
ponchos, suffering from the stinging cold. As for 
myself, I jumped about upon our little territory until 
the increased circulation of the blood kept me in a 
warm glow. The guides fortified themselves against 
the cold air by drinking aguardiente ; but experience 
had proved to me that the cold snow water in my 
flask would give me a firmer step, an easier respiration, 
and a clearer head than any brandy or aguardiente of 
the San Juaninos. 



DESCENT OF THE CORDILLERA. 303 

The moon shone as beautiful as we could have 
wished, lighting up the valley and its towering walls 
in a sublime manner. The little cascades of melting 
snow no longer fell over the cliffs, but froze, coating 
the dark fronts of the precipices with a shield of spar- 
kling ice, and the sharp " ticking " of the frost sounded 
strangely, seeming to add to the weirdness of the place. 

After remaining for three hours, the guides pronounced 
the snow sufficiently crusted over to bear us ; and, point- 
ing to a sharp angle of the valley, the oldest one de- 
sired me to lead my horse in that direction, while the 
rest of the party attended to the animals. 

The River Aconcagua roared along the mountain's 
sides, and in most places was hidden by the frozen 
snow. Our course lay along its borders, where many 
gullies crossed our trail, hidden beneath the frozen 
crust. 

While feeling our way along, old Yellow-skin, my 
horse, fell through the crust into a torrent that flowed 
into the river, leaving me standing upon the broken 
edges of the hole. The guides pulled me from the 
chasm, and beat the old horse until he became excited 
to such a degree as to crawl out of his bath with a 
vigor that satisfied us he would live to reach the open 
country. 

We next crossed a high spur of the mountains, and, 
descending a precipitous path, came upon the second 
snow hut of the Chilian government; and after follow- 
ing many windings, and experiencing much danger in 
crossing the river, the dry, brown earth was reached, 
and we looked up to the lofty mountains, that shone 
in the moonlight, with great satisfaction, for our labors 



304 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

were ended. The guides gathered a few sticks togeth- 
er, and succeeded in lighting a fire, by the heat of 
which a scrap of jerked beef was cooked; but before 
this had been accomplished, the don and myself, over- 
tasked by the fatigues of our long journey, had rolled 
ourselves up in the hide, and were sleeping too soundly 
to be awakened by the peons, who undoubtedly were 
pleased at the result, for they had all the beef to them- 
selves. When the reader reflects that the preceding 
stage of the journey had been very long and arduous, 
we having travelled, with the exception of three hours, 
from four o'clock of the morning of one day until two 
o'clock of the next morning, he will acknowledge that 
our rest was well earned. 



FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. 305 



CHAPTER XX. 
FKOM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. 

AT daylight we breakfasted on dried beef and mate 
tea, and soon started on our journey, which was 
now rapidly drawing to a close. The sun was high in 
the heavens, although we could not for a long time see 
his face, for the mountains shut us in completely. We 
continued down the valley, passing near some fine 
springs of water, which, from the peculiar manner in 
which they burst forth from the ground, are called 
" Los ejos de Agua? or Eyes of Water. 

The first signs of civilization that we reached on the 
Chili territory was at a place called " El Guarde Viejo" 
the old custom-house of the Chilian government. 

This was occupied by a farmer, a new government 
building having been erected farther down, at the 
mouth of the valley. Beyond the Guarde, at intervals, 
little huts were seen, the inhabitants of which were 
garrulous and hospitable. 

As we emerged from the valley, and encountered 
troops of mules and parties of country people, I ob- 
served the peculiar characteristics which distinguish 
the Chilians from the people of the country behind us. 
The muleteers on the eastern side of the Andes were 
grave in deportment, and slow in speech and movement. 
20 



306 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

The Chilians were more energetic and intelligent, — 
perhaps from more extended intercourse with foreigners. 
Tet they have the discredit of being less honest than 
their brethren of the pampa provinces. The men of 
Chili wore a short poncho, hardly covering the wear- 
er's hips. The Argentinos' poncho is of the longest 
kind — longer than those of the people of any other 
South American republic. The Chilian's lasso hangs in 
coils from the saddle behind the rider; the gaucho's is 
carefully coiled up, and rests on the horse's croup. 

The farms now became more frequent as we travelled 
along ; the buildings were neatly roofed with red tiles, 
and furnished a striking contrast to those of Mendoza 
and San Juan, which were generally of canes and mud. 

As night came on, we reached an irrigating canal, 
which conveyed water to the town of San Rosa ; thrifty 
little farms were fed by its waters all along the road, 
and neatness and good order and management were 
everywhere discernible. The little houses were shaded 
by groves of fig and orange trees, and the reader can 
imagine our thoughts and happiness to be travelling 
through a country bright with blossoming fruit trees, 
when but a few hours before we had slept on a snow- 
drift. 

Groups of young people were often seen seated be- 
neath the trees, or under the verandas, singing, or playing 
on the guitar. Before one of the farm-houses we drew 
up, and, after being welcomed by one of these happy 
groups, we led our animals from the road, and prepared 
to remain for the night. An abundant supper was fur- 
nished us, and I do not remember a pleasanter night's 
rest that I ever had, than that. 



A CHILIAN WELCOME. 307 

The next morning I went out to the pasture to bid 
my old horse adios. I found him cropping the rich a?- 
falfa on the irrigated field ; and as I approached him 
he seemed rather disinclined to any familiarity, for he 
had associated me with all the hardships of the journey ; 
and now to leave a land of plenty with me was evi- 
dently not to his taste. I lost no time in assuring him 
that my intentions were pacific, and when I left him 
he gave a pleasant whisk of his tail and shake of the 
ears, apparently thanking me for leaving him so liter- 
ally " in clover." 

My pedestrian journey was ended. I would have 
liked to continue on foot to the sea, which I could 
easily have reached in a couple of days ; but my kind 
friend Don Fernando would not permit me to leave 
his troop. I must keep him company. 

" You must come with me, my son," he said. " I wish 
to introduce you to some very nice people. I am a 
Chilian by birth, and I desire that you shall form a 
good opinion of my countrymen." 

A mule, richly caparisoned, was furnished me by the 
don, and, mounting our animals, we soon rode into the 
town of Santa Rosa. Drawing up his mule before the 
entrance of a large mansion, before which paced a sol- 
dier with musket in hand, Don Fernando inquired if 
Don Jose Ynfante, the governor of the department of 
Santa Rosa, was at home. 

The soldier replied that that gentleman was at San- 
tiago on official business, but that his son Don Manuel 
was at home. While a servant went to announce our 
arrival, I had time to note that the national flag of 
Chili floated above the stately mansion, while a peep 



308 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

within the yard revealed beds of beautiful flowers and 
well-kept walks. 

In a moment Don Manuel appeared, and, cordially 
embracing his uncle, exclaimed, "Welcome to Chili, 
and to Santa Rosa!" The don introduced me to the 
other gentleman, who greeted me warmly, uttering at 
the same time many expressions of good feeling for me 
and my countrymen. We then entered the house, and 
passed a most pleasant day in social intercourse, to 
which the agreeable and cultivated manners of the 
young don added no little charm. Don Manuel, as if to 
bring our recent hard fare more strongly to our imagi- 
nations, feasted us upon strawberries and sherbet ; and 
the reader can form some faint idea how acceptable 
they were to us. The ice for the sherbet had been 
brought down from the Cordillera on the backs of mules. 

On the following day we mounted our animals, and, 
bidding adios to Don Manuel, resumed our journey for 
the coast. Leaving Santa Rosa, we passed over an in- 
teresting country, and in the afternoon crossed a fine 
bridge of foreign construction, and entered the town 
of San Felipe, — which has a population of about twelve 
thousand inhabitants, — where we passed the night. 

The River Aconcagua irrigates the gardens and 
farms in this district, and the soil is very fertile, yield- 
ing abundant crops of grain, potatoes, melons, maize, 
beans, walnuts, figs, peaches, tobacco, and grapes. The 
town is about eighty miles from Valparaiso. 

Resuming our route on the next morning, and trav- 
elling all day, we entered, at dusk, the town of Quil- 
lota, which contains about ten thousand souls, and is 
about thirty-five miles from Valparaiso. 



DEPARTURE FOR HOME. 309 

Here we found some large and well-cultivated farms, 
and the whole country was quite interesting. 

On the following morning Don Fernando started in 
advance of our party, to prepare for our arrival at Val- 
paraiso, this being the last day of the journey. 

I remained with the people of the troop, and kept 
them company during the whole day. No incident 
occurred worthy of record here ; and before the twi- 
light had begun to fall upon the heavens, we were 
descending the high cuestas that overlook Valparaiso, 
which city lay stretched out below us on the shore of 
the great Pacific, its white plastered dwellings glisten- 
ing like silver in the rays of the declining sun. 

Winding down the stony path, we entered the city 
before dark, and were soon ensconced in comfortable 
quarters. 

On the following day I presented my letters of in- 
troduction to the United States consul, George Mer- 
win, Esq., who, after giving me a kind reception, and 
warm congratulations on the success of my long jour- 
ney, interested himself so much in procuring me a 
berth in an American vessel, that before twenty-four 
hours had passed I was comfortably settled on board 
the fine ship Magellan, Captain Charles King, and I 
once more entered upon the routine of life before the 
mast. A few weeks later, and we were scudding down 
the western coast of Patagonia, and " going around the 
Horn" (this time in earnest) on our journey, home. 

Reader, my story is told. If you have been enabled 
in these pages to glean a little instruction or amuse- 
ment for your leisure hours, I shall feel well rewarded ; 









310 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. 

and if, when in imagination you followed me in my 
weary journey, you, perhaps, felt some little sympathy 
for the hardships I sometimes experienced, I shall 
never regret my pedestrian trip across the " Pampas 
and the Andes." 



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